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  1. #41
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    Ahh these tires are SWEEET. So much grip compared to my old slicks. Need to set my punch control from 75 to 80 or higher to cancel out unwanted wheelies and unresponsive steering in some places. I believe this is a very good race setup. Needs more preload in the front though, sometimes it totally gives out in corners.

    Everyone says this is too much power... That is totally wrong. It is just like a velineon, but will never overheat, has more torque and has 6s capability.

    My new tires!



    This made me mad


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  2. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kitteh298 View Post
    Ahh these tires are SWEEET. So much grip compared to my old slicks. Need to set my punch control from 75 to 80 or higher to cancel out unwanted wheelies and unresponsive steering in some places. I believe this is a very good race setup. Needs more preload in the front though, sometimes it totally gives out in corners.

    Everyone says this is too much power... That is totally wrong. It is just like a velineon, but will never overheat, has more torque and has 6s capability.

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    Nice tires.
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  3. #43
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    Hey guys i am getting a mamba monster 2400kv motor and mmp esc, i am going to be running on 4s and i want a good gearing for cool temps and all round terrain, i still want it to have plenty of torque though, any suggestions?

  4. #44
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    That is a very different setup. Try around 18/54

    And yes, they are nice tires! So much grip.

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  5. #45
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    thanks....

  6. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by kennymonsta View Post
    Hey guys i am getting a mamba monster 2400kv motor and mmp esc, i am going to be running on 4s and i want a good gearing for cool temps and all round terrain, i still want it to have plenty of torque though, any suggestions?
    anybody....????

  7. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by DBG View Post
    That's a good idea . My next order is the castle link
    Thanks again
    Don't buy the regular castle link. Buy the field programming card - it'll still hook you up to a computer when you need that level of detail, but it'll let you change the important settings like power and punch control directly thru the card without a a computer. Not much more expensive than the castle link alone.
    What broke, uh, needs upgrading now?

  8. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by OlorinTharkun View Post
    Don't buy the regular castle link. Buy the field programming card - it'll still hook you up to a computer when you need that level of detail, but it'll let you change the important settings like power and punch control directly thru the card without a a computer. Not much more expensive than the castle link alone.
    Ok thanks for the suggestion
    Sl4sh MM2
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  9. #49
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    Today i did some mods for protect the motor. I just made like a box to protect the motor from jumps or rocks. Next time i am going to paint it (i think in black). I dont think is necesary the upper protection, just the side and down protection.
    Now the pics.















    *Sorry for the background. On the pic # 1,2,3,4: Maybe a bit of info about the coins: Those are 2 x ₡100(Colones) and ₡100 are 25 cents of dollar. (more info, contact me )

    Still without pinion, because yesterday I went to 2 hobby shops and both doesn't have pinions(out of stock), so I bought 3 from ebay(14t,18t and 20t). I think this friday arrive to here.(I hope)
    Sl4sh MM2
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  10. #50
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    I used a GPS on my truck and it does 50, did a few full throttle passes and couldn't make it past 50, only running 3s mind you. I dont think 6s will be very controllable at that high of speeds, 50 was already a handful and it was hard to keep it from flipping.
    MM|2200kv 2WD LCG Slash - MM2|2650kv LCG Slash 4x4

  11. #51
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    Well another update, I killed another esc and both of my batteries. ESC is warrantied and should be here today. I ordered the SPC 3s 5000mah 25c, but now I think I should get a nicer one, their 3s 5400mah 50c. I need to use these for my spartan as well, don't know if 25c was enough from the start.

    My CC Blower also went out, so I bought a 12v fan and wired it with a relay to my receiver and battery so it gets 12v from the battery when the receiver turns on.
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  12. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kitteh298 View Post
    Well another update, I killed another esc and both of my batteries. ESC is warrantied and should be here today. I ordered the SPC 3s 5000mah 25c, but now I think I should get a nicer one, their 3s 5400mah 50c. I need to use these for my spartan as well, don't know if 25c was enough from the start.

    My CC Blower also went out, so I bought a 12v fan and wired it with a relay to my receiver and battery so it gets 12v from the battery when the receiver turns on.
    What did you do to the esc this time?? Lol. The MMP is pretty tough.

    DGB - why did you mount the MMP on its side?

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  13. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by O.G. View Post
    What did you do to the esc this time?? Lol. The MMP is pretty tough.

    DGB - why did you mount the MMP on its side?

    Sent from my Southwestern Bell rotary desk phone.
    Because the stock wires are very shorts, so that position are the best for make the esc fit without mods, but i am doing a wire extension for the motor (i already have wire but i need the bullets connectors)
    Sl4sh MM2
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  14. #54
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    I was testing a relay for my fan and I reverse voltaged it, still worked afterwards, but then it just stopped.

    Yeah, the traxxas motor has shorter leads than the castle motor, The setup I had at first was nice, but having it actually mounted like it should be is really nice.
    Last edited by Kitteh298; 09-12-2012 at 05:54 PM.
    MM|2200kv 2WD LCG Slash - MM2|2650kv LCG Slash 4x4

  15. #55
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    Got my nice batteries and stuff. I love it!

    My relay for the fan to get battery power only when the receiver is on.



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  16. #56
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    Well my first transmission failure is finally here. My truck was handling really crappy and I pinpointed it to the transmission/differential.


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  17. #57
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. AbSoLooT1's Avatar
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    Oh ya, With this motor u are super limited to the gearing u can run....

    This is what I had to do for it to fit in my 100mph Rustler... Well.. For the gearing I WANTED to fit...





    Also, As for your Mamba Max. Id really mount it the regular way... U can make some extensions for the wire. I ordered 10awg (guage) wire from Castle, and used the same 6.5mm connections from Castle. here is the result.





    U could make it 4-5 inches, whatever u need...
    Build, Bash, Clean, Repair, Repeat..

  18. #58
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    My truck is torn apart awaiting parts to be bought and made. I just about have a 14 dollar lcg chassis. Need to figure out how I will mount my electronics and my main concern, the battery. Velcro won't work very well, and the stock hold down won't work.



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  19. #59
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    Velcro straps!

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  20. #60
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    Yes Velcro will work but then you'll
    have something under the chassis that will catch debris and get hung up on stuff.

    How about the slash battery expansion kit, or install another Rustler battery tie down at the rear? It'll be adjustable as the front (screw out for more room), and you can buy taller pegs if needed.
    My Black & Blue Rally is faster than your color...

  21. #61
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    My thought with the velcro was to cut two notches into the side of the battery tray and two in the bottom of the chassis tub and slip the strap through that way. I like Velcro a lot better than clips. But, it might be something that I should look into.

    I finished the rear end of my cheap lcg. I had to order the upper chassis from my LHS because nobody actually had it locally.

    My dad had some high density plastic laying around so I used our metal saw and a razor blade and wallah!







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    Last edited by Kitteh298; 09-30-2012 at 12:33 AM.
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  22. #62
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    Got the ESC mounted and the battery strap riveted to the chassis. My upper chassis plate should be at the lhs tomorrow.




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  23. #63
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    Its alive! It handles alright, not spectacular.. Though my tires are practically bald and my suspension setup is not the best I'm sure.






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    Last edited by Kitteh298; 10-04-2012 at 11:41 AM.
    MM|2200kv 2WD LCG Slash - MM2|2650kv LCG Slash 4x4

  24. #64
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    My lcg chassis cost me a grand total of $11.59. Chassis and strap was all I had to buy.

    Noticed that my steering was a bit sloppy.. ordered a take-off slash 4x4 bell crank complete with bearings at $9.70.

    I plan to get some big bore shocks in the very near future as well.

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  25. #65
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    Ordered the big bores, anyone have reviews for me? how much better will they handle vs stock?

    and my LCG chassis actually costed $15.88. (forgot the upper chassis)
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  26. #66
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    Alright... new servo(cheap HK one), slash 4x4 steering bell crank and new big bores. Woop woop. I love the nice plush, soft suspension!




    Das hidden TGY-1501



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    Last edited by Kitteh298; 10-11-2012 at 10:43 PM.
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  27. #67
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    Servo is crap. I stripped more diff gears as well.

    New old parts on the bottom..


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  28. #68
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    Holy crap nice truck! How in the world did you burn through those trenchers so quickly? How much are you driving on pavement?
    Sl2sh Slayer Summit Sl4sh Teton/Rally T-Maxx Pnde

  29. #69
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    Thanks a lot wolfslash! I pretty much only ran on street with the trenchers, terrible idea. There is a lot of weight in the back of my truck as well as a bunch of wheelies and punching the throttle every chance I got =D
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  30. #70
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Wolfslash16's Avatar
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    Thanks a lot wolfslash! I pretty much only ran on street with the trenchers, terrible idea. There is a lot of weight in the back of my truck as well as a bunch of wheelies and punching the throttle every chance I got =D
    Ha ha no kidding, that was a bad idea... Oh well. I bet you sure had fun anyway. Waiting for more updates!
    Sl2sh Slayer Summit Sl4sh Teton/Rally T-Maxx Pnde

  31. #71
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    Well after my differential broke I found that I tightened my transmission screws way to much and had to drill them all out.

    I cleaned every tooth In my transmission and differential very meticulously. I also bought the wrong size screws so I can't put it together.. I need 3x20 instead of 3x15 CCS.

    Oh and road_rascal here on the forums gave me a whole new set of tires!



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  32. #72
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    I wouldn't say they're new, but should give better traction on the carpet course than those slicks you had on !

  33. #73
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    That's true, if they were new they wouldn't be painted and wouldn't have to be glued. I'm not complaining though.

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  34. #74
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    Crappy video for you guys.

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  35. #75
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    I took a better video. A good crash perhaps.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j6cARXCTiIc

    And the carnage of the day, broke my rpm rear axle carrier.



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  36. #76
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    Looks like you have a nice dirt field in one of your other videos. Get some plywood and outdoor carpet, make some jumps and get a track going!

  37. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kitteh298 View Post
    Crappy video for you guys.
    Here it is..
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5IKSw2qS1Qs

    Quote Originally Posted by road_rascal View Post
    Looks like you have a nice dirt field in one of your other videos. Get some plywood and outdoor carpet, make some jumps and get a track going!
    Same place in both videos. It is actually a public park from what I hear..
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  38. #78
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    Well, I want to get some nice tires for my truck pretty soon, I'd like to do a 2.8 in about the same diameter, I also want to use the same offset all around.. The usage will be mainly street and some offroad, obviously I want a stupid amount of grip on all surfaces so I can get the most out of my power system.

    At first, I wanted to do the g-locs, but they are like half an inch smaller diameter, something around the stock slash wheel is what I'm after ~4.3".

    Dirt Hawgs look cool, don't know how they wear with this much power, how much they will balloon and such?
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  39. #79
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
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    Yes sir,sorry,but there is such a thing as to much power.
    On the track,I watch side winders walk past spun out mmp all the time.
    It all depends on what you want to do with it.
    As long as your having fun,go for it!
    Quote Originally Posted by Kitteh298 View Post
    Got it back yesterday(thursday). I ran it for about 15 minutes and I was just about to take it in, when suddenly, I spun out on some gravel and smacked the motor on the curb. It is toast, I think I may have caused it too, I put longer screws into the can afterwards because the holes were stripped. I was told after I did it that it probably caused a short inside of the motor. It gets really warm really fast and will smoke on full throttle... make people sad. Theres an $80+ crash, gotta do the flat rate non-warranty replacement... At least my boat still works and I still like castle.
    Built Ford Tuff With Chevy Stuff.

  40. #80
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    LOLWUT? And no, there is no such thing as too much power.
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