I have seen the tranny housing actually melt from the small square peg heating up, from the brake hanging up or just being too tight. The brake setup on a jato was an engineering oversight. In my opinion.
If yes, adjust the horn for throttle and the sub trim adjusted will change your throw length. Good idea to reset end points first. Next is to use the brake adjuster nob to insure no brake drag and the spring engages as soon as you apply the brake.
The dual brake set up is the best fix for the Jatos SUCKY brakes!!!
But it looks like you need to ahjust the throw on your controller and do the fuel line or "pen mod" on your linkage.
Search throught the Jato forum and look for it, I know its in there that will fix your prob.
Why would it matter if the brakes dragged a little to begin stopping at neutral? I have my dual setup set to start grabbing when I release the gas , pressing the gas releases it fully. Shouldn't make a difference.
Originally Posted by Assassin
It's probably just replacing the spring in the brake linkage with fuel tube or a pen shell cut to size. I wouldn't sugbecai
If I had a brake problem, i would first check my TX settings to insure I have the right amount of throw.
Next I would insure I have no brake drag at all at neutral.
If its still poor, look for flex in the links, replace or hop up to alloy if needed.
If you have a heavy truck with some alloy hop ups, upgrading to a 2 disk set up should be all that's needed.
Heat. With them dragging they don't get an opportunity to cool off as they do with no drag. Getting on and off the brakes repeadedly and the temps rise to where you have brake fade. If it gets too bad you notice a great deal of difference in the braking strength from the start of the session to the end, quite possibly requiring the brake rod adjuster tightened to get decent braking. This all leads to added stress along the system (linkages and lever points) & could be why many have no luck with stock set ups & need much stronger set ups then is actually needed.
In short It basically lowers the efficiency of the brakes while wearing them out at a higher rate, and causes unneeded stress along the brake system.
They don't drag through the entire run. They only drag for the second I come off the gas before I press the brake providing a minimal force which actually delivers a nice stabilizing drag before hard braking.
Are you always on the throttle? Longest WOT is 5 to 6 sec, usually stabs while cornering. Other then that your brakes are heating up getting no longer then 5 to 6 seconds max. Man specs often times are for a reason.
Don't have to be WOT, any depression of trigger or movement of the servo will totally release the brakes. So any throttle depression from minor to WOT, releases the brake. I will keep an eye on the heat but it has not been an issue.
Correct it doesnt take WOT to get off the brakes, what Im saying is the duration you can go Wot is most often the longest period away from being on the brakes to some degree. With the acceleration and top end of this thing, can't be on the throttle for too long or its gone.