Revo electric conversion?

[multidookey]

Hello i was wanting to do an electric conversion of my revo. And was wondering what parts will need to be bought? And also wondering if the regular e-revo transmission would work on the chassis. All advice is thanked.

[S.R.C.H]

There is a Tekno conversion kit but it doesnt include motor and ESC.

[fallonguy]

The e-revo transmission wont fit the nitro chassis but you could also get the e-revo chassis and swap the axles over the center drive shafts would have to be from the e-revo too.

[multidookey]

Well i would like to keep the metal chassis

[rjm2519]

Check out kershaw designs, he has complete comversion kits or just basic mounts, reasonably priced and all quality stuff. I have purchased some emaxx parts from him before awesome stuff. Not always pretty, but good quality.

[multidookey]

Do you know if the gears inside the transmission are metal? I havent gone in so i dont know.

[revomaxx2223]

motors, esc's, batteries and an electric motor mount.

As for the transmission, They are nylon plastic.

[multidookey]

Is there an after market kit with all metal.? Even if its locked into one gear?

[Kyleb]

Hello i was wanting to do an electric conversion of my revo. And was wondering what parts will need to be bought? And also wondering if the regular e-revo transmission would work on the chassis. All advice is thanked.

Look at this guys revo. Look like he kept both the stock tranny and chassis. Maybe pm him and see if you can get a few ideas

[metoo2]

Here is what I bought:

Tekno Conversion kit
Traxxas Forward only Conversion kit
Traxxas wide ratio gear set (if you have a Revo 3.3, this is not necessary)
Hobbywing Xerun M6B combo (2200 kv sensored motor, 150A ESC, program card)
two Traxxas E-Revo diffs from the only place I know that sells them complete.
Mod 1 Pinion (your choice of tooth count)

You will want to lock-in 2nd gear. There are a few different way to do that.

I have this all in a box ready to install this week. I'll be using electric brakes. Some like sticking with mechanical brakes. There are cheaper conversion methods than I've chosen and more expensive ones. Chose your weapon.

[dan291000]

Noooooooo!!!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk 2

[Kyleb]

http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...brushless-revo

[multidookey]

Ok well when you install the electronics let me know how you like them. And i would like to keep mechanical brakes. How would i do that? And how would it be setup? And if i didnt lock it into 1 gear would it still shift? Cause i would like to try that.

[metoo2]

Ok well when you install the electronics let me know how you like them. And i would like to keep mechanical brakes. How would i do that? And how would it be setup? And if i didnt lock it into 1 gear would it still shift? Cause i would like to try that.

If you don't lock it, it will shift. The 2-speed setup is to allow a nitro engine to accelerate the car quickly AND achieve a high top speed. A strong electric engine does not require a gear that low to accelerate hard. You will be fighting to keep the wheels down in 1st gear. Notice, I didn't say "front" wheels. It simply wouldn't be any fun. You'd spend most of your time flipping the truck back over. If you go with a mild motor and voltage setup, you could make use of 1st gear. Personally, I like my wheelies to be on-demand, not uncontrollable. If you decide to lock, lock it in 2nd gear, not 1st.

The ESC that I will be using allows you to turn-off the brake function. Assuming you are not using the factory radio system, you can then connect a brake servo to the 3rd channel and mix it with the 2nd so the servo operates only from neutral trigger to forward trigger and the ESC works from neutral to backward. This would kill your ability to use reverse unless you have a 4th channel and another servo. If you simply use the motor brake, you'll have it all and a truck with only steering servos (or servo).

[wesplaya]

Ok well when you install the electronics let me know how you like them. And i would like to keep mechanical brakes. How would i do that? And how would it be setup? And if i didnt lock it into 1 gear would it still shift? Cause i would like to try that.

I use my electric motor (Mamba Monster 2200kv) for my brakes and it is so much easier as I can adjust the brake pressure and brake curve (amount of brake pressure applied when trigger is pushed forward) plus without the mechanical brakes, it's one less thing to replace/ break and less weight = faster truck I also locked mine in to 2nd gear and believe me, with a powerful motor like mine it still wants to wheelie like crazy hence why I lowered the punch settings on my motor (amount of acceleration power applied when you pull the trigger).

[johnzillia54]

well look on ebay there are mount that you can use the 3.3 tranny

[revomaxx2223]

No need for two threads. A marshal may come and remove one of the threads.

[humayrayakongkinaon]

if you ever wanna lock your second gear, heres my easy way of doing it.

1. take apart your tran, lol.
2. (wide ratio 2nd gear) i use a drimmel to make the openning next to the grab pin

3. take out the adjuster screw and replace it with countersunk screw, file one side of the head screw thats facing toward the 2nd gear to shape like a D so that it will set properly and also make sure you put locktite on that screw. (keep the spring and ball bearing inside)

4. when you put it together, make sure the arm are engage on the other side to grab the pin

5. not part of locking 2nd gear but i thought why not share it with you, lol. i dont like using that C clip that support the pin, so i replace it with a grub screw.
thats how i do it.

[Inflic501]

I'm also doing a conversion, I already received my mamba monster, what pinion to spur ratio is good for bashing?


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I am here: http://tapatalk.com/map.php?1bfwbl

[Fher_PR]

Stock spur and 18 pinion, with standar radio

[metoo2]

Stock spur and 18 pinion, with standar radio

I just ran my conversion for the first time today on 38/18. WOW!!!!! This truck is strong! My Revo is extra long (15" wheelbase) with large tires (Proline Moab) and it's still a bit of challenge to keep the nose down when traction is high. I'm probably going to give 37/18 or 36/18 a try. The only problem with that is that it already has wicked top end with the Xerun 150A ESC and sensored 2200kv motor on 4S.

[metoo2]

Ok well when you install the electronics let me know how you like them. And i would like to keep mechanical brakes. How would i do that? And how would it be setup? And if i didnt lock it into 1 gear would it still shift? Cause i would like to try that.

Well, it's all installed and !!! Boy is this thing insane! Like I said earlier, 1st gear would be useless. My extended Revo with big tires requires finesse to control the wheelies. I'm going to drop a gear on the spur and take out some of the punch. I see no need for mechanical brakes unless you drive it on a high bite surface and can bias the brakes to the rear. I had a very tough time stopping the truck without flipping it forward. I'm sure that the long travel suspension and tall ride height don't help matters. My motor will absolutely lock the brakes, but as was also said earlier, this is fully controllable. I'm just going to dial out some of the brake power, but I can easily get more elaborate with it. Reverse is such a nice feature. I know the nitros have reverse, but there is too much involved.

So it's official. I am a convert now. I have a Revo now with less than have the transmission gears, only 1 servo on the whole truck, single speed, and no mechanical brake components, that this faster, has more torque, more continuous runtime, runs cooler, starts with the flick of a switch, lays upside down without shutting off, makes no mess, can be driven in the house, and can be driven in the neighbors yard at midnight on a weekday without disturbing them. Gotta love it. I think my other nitro big block Revo may be up for sale soon.

[metoo2]

Update:

Battery pack number 2 on a brand new truck, and this is the result. This never happened on my big block nitro Revo after years of driving it.



All of the rear yokes are tweaked like this, with on having a total blowout. The center yokes and front yokes are perfectly fine. The swept arms and carriers I have in the rear did not contribute to this [as I retract a statement I made earlier somewhere]. The front axles/shafts have much more angle. The deal is that the front doen't see nearly as much traction, thus less torque is experienced by the front shafts. The center shafts get 1/3 of the torque (ignoring some losses) of the that the front or rear axles see.

To prevent this from happening again, I will be investing in some steel shafts for the rear....and not the kind with cups. I have also put in a 37T spur to replace the 38, reduced the timing, and reduced the punch. I haven't tried it yet, but I'm sure it will still be nasty.

[metoo2]

Update:

I replaced the left rear shaft shown ripped above, with a new one. It suffered the same faith within about 10 minutes. Oddly, it was the new shaft that broke rather than the right rear one which looked ready to die before I replaced the left one. Anyhue, this will be solve when the next package arrives in the mail for me next week.

[multidookey]

that sounds awesome! so your going to make your own cvd rather then get the traxxas upgrade? and did you mention you get longer run times? what batteries do you use? and its the exrun 2200kv huh? i have been waiting for someone to show me what they think. does it run cool? and im guessing it has power from earlier statements you have made.

[metoo2]

that sounds awesome! so your going to make your own cvd rather then get the traxxas upgrade? and did you mention you get longer run times? what batteries do you use? and its the exrun 2200kv huh? i have been waiting for someone to show me what they think. does it run cool? and im guessing it has power from earlier statements you have made.

I bought the MIP telescoping CVDs. I have not received them yet. After reading a few bad reviews on them, I may be regretting the purchase. Several guys have found the Traxxas Summit axles to be a good option. The set will be half the price of the MIPs. The ones I really like are the ones by eracingpro, shown below, but they are expensive and I only want 2, not 4.


Running the truck pretty hard, I've seen it reach 174 degrees per the info on my Spektrum DX3S transmitter. 155 or so is more typical. I put a 40mm fan on it recently and ran it for a few minutes an it only got up to 117. I'm sure it would have hit 140 if I kept at it. I bought this engine/ESC combo because I like how it runs in my buggy as a 1800kv. I use 25C 4S 5000mah packs. When I added the fan, I also brought the punch down to the minimum value an added more reverse speed for reverse stunts. It's still wild with no punch. I'm going to drop the timing even more. This is great in that I still have crazy power and these program changes will also result in a cooler motor and even longer runtimes. The ESC is very easy to tune with the digital program card it comes with. There is also a USB cord if you rather use your laptop. It's all you need and cheap relative to other systems of it's specs.

[96motorhead]

IMO it's to much money to do this conversion, electric conversions are overpriced for what you receive.

[metoo2]

IMO it's to much money to do this conversion, electric conversions are overpriced for what you receive.

Sensored Motor, ESC, and program card $200
Motor Mount, battery tray, etc. $100
Battery $40
Summit axles $25
I assume everyone has a decent charger, but if not, $30

That's $365 (knock off $100 if you make some different choices). What you recieve is a Revo that's WAAAYYYYYY stronger than before, runs longer between pit stops, doesn't make an oily mess, runs strong imediatey (no warm up), can remain upside down for many many minutes without having to be restarted, only requires 2 channels with reverse ....,and the list goes on. So how is that overprice compared to another monster truck you could buy for the same amount? I know Revo owners that have spent that much more on just another engine, that is weaker than the setup I have. Shoot, I spent over $250 converting my other Revo to big block and that was with a cheap engine. You can probably find a used brushed E-Revo for that price, but that's hardly a comparison. If you are content with the performance of your nitro and all that comes with having nitro, then yes, even $2 is overpriced. It's all about what you want, but if you want this kind of insanity from a monster truck this size, you would be hard pressed to find it cheaper.

[metoo2]

For those that are budget conscious, How2RC make s conversion kit for 1/3 the price of Tekno. It's not pretty, but it is an option for you.

[96motorhead]

Sensored Motor, ESC, and program card $200
Motor Mount, battery tray, etc. $100
Battery $40
Summit axles $25
I assume everyone has a decent charger, but if not, $30

That's $365 (knock off $100 if you make some different choices). What you recieve is a Revo that's WAAAYYYYYY stronger than before, runs longer between pit stops, doesn't make an oily mess, runs strong imediatey (no warm up), can remain upside down for many many minutes without having to be restarted, only requires 2 channels with reverse ....,and the list goes on. So how is that overprice compared to another monster truck you could buy for the same amount? I know Revo owners that have spent that much more on just another engine, that is weaker than the setup I have. Shoot, I spent over $250 converting my other Revo to big block and that was with a cheap engine. You can probably find a used brushed E-Revo for that price, but that's hardly a comparison. If you are content with the performance of your nitro and all that comes with having nitro, then yes, even $2 is overpriced. It's all about what you want, but if you want this kind of insanity from a monster truck this size, you would be hard pressed to find it cheaper.

show me an 1/8th scale system for 200 dollars. I almost fell over when you said 40 dollars for a battery, I can't get a nimh slash battery from the hobby store for that. Let alone you need at least 4s lipo to push a monster truck. Summit axles what?????? You need cvd's that makes no sense. 30 bucks for a lipo charger what! even used your looking at like 50 bucks.(a decent charger) the tekno conversion is around 120 bucks. Your way off bud.

[humayrayakongkinaon]

i'm in the process of doing this conversion also and i'm going to build my own motor mount, ESC tray and batt tray. and for a decent 1/8 scale system, i'm thinking of getting this (link below). i'm trying to stay below $300 and so far i have spent $60 and so far mine looks like this,

ESC/Motor combo,
http://www.rcecho.com/HOBBYWING-XERU...mbo-ME222.html

[metoo2]

show me an 1/8th scale system for 200 dollars. I almost fell over when you said 40 dollars for a battery, I can't get a nimh slash battery from the hobby store for that. Let alone you need at least 4s lipo to push a monster truck. Summit axles what?????? You need cvd's that makes no sense. 30 bucks for a lipo charger what! even used your looking at like 50 bucks.(a decent charger) the tekno conversion is around 120 bucks. Your way off bud.

I'm please to say that I am in fact dead on. I'm talking from person experience, not guess work.

Mistake number one is that you are looking at hobby shop prices and merchandise. I love my local hobby shops, but I only give them money for track fees and "some" parts here and there. I also end up being a salesman for them half the time when I'm there, as I help out customers which usually end up walking to the counter with something to buy at my suggestion. I also send them customers. However, I buy most items online, especially vehicles and electronics. If you wish, hit me up by PM and I can give you all the pros and cons about the products and places I deal with and have dealt with. I love helping anyone save money so they can have more stuff and more fun since that's what it's all about.

Behold!!! [Cue the gladiator music] Pictured on my Revo are the $200 2200kv sensored motor/150A /ESC/digital program card combo (card not shown) and the $38 4C 5000mah 25C lipo. It runs smooth, cool, and ridiculously strong. Having more than 25C on a setup like this does nothing for you but allow you to say you have more than 25C. And there are still a good choice or two routes that cost even less.

The Accucell-6 is a great 50W lipo balancing charger for under $25. If you need a built-in power supply, there's a great one for under $40 good for a 6A charge. I have the Accucel-8150 (150W and up to 8S) which I've been using for the past 2 years for my helis, boats, RX packs, TX batteries, ignitor batteries, and rotostart batteries. It cost me $38 at the time and has performed flawlessly. I just bought the Mega 400W version 2 ($70) last month so that I can put a 20A charge on the 5000mah 4S packs I use on my RC8.2e (which uses a 1800kv combo from the same series as the 2200 and it's a beast on the track). My Revo packs are charged at 10A. My 540W power supply was $70, but you can get one made from server power supplies for less than that, and they are often good for 1000W. I paid $102 shipped for the Tekno conversion kit, but the Tekno conversion kit is not the only way to go. It can be done for far less. This is all good stuff, not trash.


A CVD (trademark name by MIP) is nothing more than a universal joint. The stock Revo and Summit come with universal drive shafts, they just happen to be plastic. Most CVD-like systems use slotted cups at the diff that get beat to death and wallow out and sometime break. These cups on a street bashed Revo are probably not so good. Telescoping universals are better suited, especially if you use wheelbase extension arms. The Revo stock shafts are inferior to the Summits by a large margin. The Revos' yokes are very thin around a large pin. This is where they break [see post #23]. The Summit uses more of a cup-in-ball design and have way more meat around the pins. If you keep your ride height where the diff and hubs are nearly aligned and you don't use wheelbase extension arms, they should prove to last well. Otherwise, like my setup, I'm not sure, but I'm certain they are better than the Revo shafts.

Serveral electric converts have found this to be a great option. I was going buy them too, but I didn't know about them until after I placed an order for the steel telescoping MIP CVD's, which will be installed tomorrow, since I broke my last remaining stock Revo shaft today. You only need a pair for the rear. ON my Revo, the center and front still look perfect while every yoke in the rear is twisted. The MIP CVD's are similar to the Summit design, but everything is steel. Even these MIP CVD's have a weak point which is right at the ball. There isn't much metal there. Some guys have broken them there. I believe eracingpro to have the most superior design that I've seen, but you have to buy 4. If I knew someone else doing a conversion, I would have split the set with them.

Seriously though, hit me with a PM and we can chat. I've been in the RC hobby for nearly 30 years.

[metoo2]

i'm in the process of doing this conversion also and i'm going to build my own motor mount, ESC tray and batt tray. and for a decent 1/8 scale system, i'm thinking of getting this (link below). i'm trying to stay below $300 and so far i have spent $60 and so far mine looks like this....

That'll get'er movin alright. I know you're trying to hit a target price, but I really love sensored motors. For $30 more you can have it and a more powerful setup, but honestly, don't do it for the power. There's probably too much even with the system you're looking at. I have not experience with a electric convert Revo on non-sensored, I just really like it on mine.

Unless you are building a mount simply because you want to, I can point you to a mount that's pretty low cost and it's not that cheesy one by How2RC? PM me.

[metoo2]

Edits in green:

That'll get'er movin alright. I know you're trying to hit a target price, but I really love sensored motors. For $30 more you can have it and a more powerful setup, but honestly, don't do it for the power. There's probably too much even with the system you're looking at. I have no experience with an electric convert Revo on non-sensored, I just really like sensored on mine.

Unless you are building a mount simply because you want to, I can point you to a mount that's pretty low cost and it's not that cheesy one by How2RC.

Also, a SCTE battery tray can be adapted to fit. It will allow the battery to be close to the front compared to the Tekno battery tray. PM me