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  1. #121
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    Wow guys thanks for the support! I hope I can do better than those on YouTube. I know of an abandoned airport nearby, well not too nearby, but close enough that I can go to once the time comes. I am waiting on a package from rc planet for my front jacos, rpm rear shock tower, and aluminum front bulkhead. I'll get that all installed and post some pics and will soon be on my way for a speed run. I'll definitely take a vid

  2. #122
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    Nice to hear about your plans, we support people that are "real".

  3. #123
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    Once I try it out, if it is WAY too much to handle I might just downsize a bit to the 2650kv. Like sell my motor, and use the funds to purchase a new 2650kv. Would you recommend doing this? Or should I just stick with the 2200?I keep picturing the thing just lifting off lol. I also have a regular traxxas 2.4 ghz transmitter and receiver. Nothing fancy, should I have something else?

  4. #124
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    as far as i know, the 2200kv is top class motor used to hit top speeds. if i were you i wouldn't replace it even if it's starts hard to handle. by some practice you'll be able to use to it . Just take your time.

    as long as other did managed to achieve some great speeds with such setups, why doesn't yours ? right ?

    as for the radio, no need for been, large display fancy radio .. other hobbyist did control their rustler with this motor by using old fashion radios.
    save the money for some 'emergency' spare parts you might need.'

  5. #125
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    Yeah thats right, the stock 2.4ghz works good. Going from the 2200 to the 2650kv wont be that much differance though, still plenty of torque in the 2650kv. Even the 2400kv and 3800kv 1/10 scale motors has "front lifting" torque.

    How about a gyro? It makes a big differance trying to hold the rusty straight in high speeds. Definatly redommend getting a gyro.

  6. #126
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    The one that is recommended is the E-Sky ek2-0704 gyro. I can't seem to find it anywhere. It's always sold out or not in stock. eBay doesn't even have it.

  7. #127
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    placing on a gyro is an idea, but i doubt it will do anything.
    if the car shifts accidently from it's course, this only will start a non reversible chain of reaction that it will end with a crash at such high speeds.

    Just my opinion.

  8. #128
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    I can vouche that the gyro does really much for keeping the car straight. You can even steer while running high speeds if the car starts to go sideways. If you steer without the gyro it will be harder, even a slight movement from the radio at high speeds will make the car to "oversteer". And yes the gyro can make the car really shaky, but turn down the sensitivity.

    With those powerfull motors the rear wheels tend to brake loose while accelerating and the car tend to not go straight while that happens, that why it is good to use a gyro that smothens the steering as well. Thats the benefit I have from using a gyro. You dont even have to line up the car straight before speedrunning, you can straighten it out while running. Its kind oif hard to explain, you need to test a gyro first and you will see.

    You should use the regular basic gyro and not the headlock one. Look in the merv section theres a thread about "gyros for the merv", different brands are discussed there. I think hobbypartz has a gyro similar to the D-Box or something, costing around 30 dollars or less.

    As long as there are no small rocks on the road, speedrunning should not be a problem. With foams, small rocks are deadly.
    Last edited by ttThree; 07-12-2012 at 05:09 PM.

  9. #129
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    i hope it will help then ttthree i really wish that the gyro would assist Nitroelectric attempt.

    what i meant going out of course happened in less than a blink of an eye, that's why i'm skeptic that gyro could correct what's going to happened next 1/10th of a second maybe.

    here's a video of one of speed seekers in Australia, i contact him a while ago about his setup. although it was a real heavy 1/8 buggy but shifting out of the course did happened for unknown reason like what in the video.
    i knew this buggy because i have one, it's too heavy , but it happened.



    Note:

    the speed above were at least 80mph. in another video it hits 89km without issue. the crash happened at a lower speed.
    Last edited by Desert JATO; 07-12-2012 at 05:36 PM.

  10. #130
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    Of course the gyro wont help when mysterious things happen, how ever it helps keeping the servo centered all time, and when you steer it smothens out. Thats the important thing. The OP decides what to do, but the gyro is really a common upgrade for increasing the straight line stability. Look in the merv section, several people have had great success with the gyro. Also people in the xo-1 section like the gyro.

  11. #131
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    If and when I can find one that is in stock I will buy it. But for now I'll just do mild speed runs (as in not 100 mph)

  12. #132
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    ttThree.... thanks man, i really appreciate encourging spirit. i think Nitroelectric will make a good top speed even without the gyro assist.
    btw, Hay nitroelectric, i wish if you can share us your speed test runs.

  13. #133
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    Oh yea of course I will. I'll probably be taking a vid too

  14. #134
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    This post has been very helpful. I really like your Rusty. I can't wait to see a vid of that thing going fast! I am building a Rusty right now too. But I am looking for 80mph with a 540 or 550 size motor. Cause I want to still be able to make high speed turns. Below is a link to a vid of the set up I am starting with. Any help would be great. I trying to decide what motor and speed control would be best for me.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ahoA0iFq7Oo

  15. #135
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    Thanks man! Well I'm not too familiar with those size motors, but Novak, Tekin, and Viper are all good quality motors.

  16. #136
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    Well, the cheapest way is to get a system, with both motor and esc. As I use to mention, the castle mmp and 2400kv motor is good for 80 mph. Thats is on 4s.

    On topic:
    How it going with your parts, did you find any gyro on hobbypartz? Also what kind of lipos are you using?

  17. #137
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    Lol well my integy spur gear 34T is on back order and will be shipped on the 25th. Kinda mad, but anyways the rest like my rear shock tower, front jacos, and bulkhead will be at my doorstep on Tuesday

  18. #138
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    Yay everything is here except the spur gear which as I said before is on backorder. But I'll put everything together and post more pics when I'm done.

  19. #139
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    Nice stuff

  20. #140
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    Lol yea. I got more bad news. I lost one of the pins for connecting the arms to the bulkhead. They are impossible to find on my floor. I hate those tiny little pins soooo much. I'm waiting on my spur so I might as well wait on something else too. I'll go to my LHS

  21. #141
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    And how bout some more bad news. The pics are pretty self explanatory



    There is no way they can fit but do u think the screws that are in opposite corners hold it?

  22. #142
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    Put more weight in the front. Each one is 1/2 oz. So since I have 1 pound which equals 16 oz, I have 32 of them on there.

  23. #143
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    Your shock tower is mounted wrong. Turn it 180 degrees and you will be fine.
    Nobody is born with experience.

  24. #144
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    You have got to be kidding me. I am such an idiot. I must have had my old one mounted wrong as well because I just copied it. Lololol thanks

  25. #145
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    Well here's some pics of it finally on 4 wheels. I just need to pick up some lock pins at my LHS and wait for my spur along with trying to find a gyro.

  26. #146
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Petertje60's Avatar
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    Mean machine!

    Lol. Don't worry. We all have those "how can it be that I didn't notice that"-moments.
    Nobody is born with experience.

  27. #147
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Desert JATO's Avatar
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    when it's done like these moments i recall the song :

    The heat is on ...
    The heat is on on

    I can feel the fire ....

    Will done, share your videos here pls.

  28. #148
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    Haha yeah I'm definitely going to share the vids

  29. #149
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    Nice build, regarding the weights, I would dremel off that knob on the upper chassis so you can put weight there. Also the weights are covering the screws to the bulkhead. I would redo the layout of the weights. Other than that, its good.

  30. #150
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Desert JATO's Avatar
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    if mean dremel something to hold weight as i understand it, i would say it's enough to use adhisive tape to secure weights on place.

  31. #151
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    I mean get rid of that mount knob thingy on the upper chassis, this one:


  32. #152
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Desert JATO's Avatar
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    oh .. i see . sorry didn't get your point .
    and yes, adding the weight covered by the body shell or at least most of it helps improving the aerodynamics.

  33. #153
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    Oh yea I noticed that but the size (as in the length and width) of the weights limit me to how many I can fit. So removing that bump wouldn't benefit me at all. Thanks though

  34. #154
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    That may be true, but youre still covering the screws.

  35. #155
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    I know I am, but I'm leaving it anyway. I'll have to remove it eventually so if I do need to, then I'll just modify the placement of the weights.

  36. #156
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    I would never remove it. You wouldn't be able to mount a Bandit body anymore!
    Nobody is born with experience.

  37. #157
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    True, but some times you need to sacrifice plastic...I dont think a bandit body would fit with all that weight any ways....unless he removes the weight and go 3s...

  38. #158
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    Nah I has no intention of ever using a bandit body. I don't really like them :/

  39. #159
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    I dont know how much the bumper affects, but usually people turn their rpm bumpers upside down to prevent the front from lifting. Maybe a myth i dont know.

  40. #160
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    Need me some foams like those!


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