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  1. #1
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    Rustler mamba monster 2200kv build

    Hey guys just letting you know that I'm building a rustler with the 2200kv motor
    from castle creations. I already have the gearbox installed with the motor. Uploading pics soon. Any questions about how to do it, feel free to ask. Thanks guys!

  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Petertje60's Avatar
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    I just wonder why you are using the 2200Kv instead of the 2650 one.
    Nobody is born with experience

  3. #3
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    Nice that you are doing a build, hope we will see many pictures and information.

  4. #4
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    I did one before, aluminum tranny case, lowered the suspension, modified batt tray, 1/8 GRP belted rally tires, 17mm adapters, MMM-2200kv the system has too much power that I had trouble keeping it on a straight line, breaking is another challenge. At the end I invested a lot of money on it, and it wasn´t that great to run, I suggest getting a gyro, and gl with the project.
    Last edited by RC-Fan; 06-17-2012 at 08:16 AM.

  5. #5
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    I am doing the same thing. but now hearing about all the problems im second guessing my decision. i bought a mamba monster setup from the marketplace for a really good price to build either another Erevo or a Emaxx. Now that we race the rustlers a few times a week i want to stun everyone. I got the MIP driveshafts and integy trans case that is open to fit the 2200. How would it be if i adjusted the punch control and really tuned the esc. Do you guys think i could control it better?
    *ERBE
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  6. #6
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    Its hard to say, you can controll the rustler with the 2200kv but it wont be easy, not to speak about a very long straight road that is needed. A gyro is a definatly buy, also you need to balance the wheels and make sure the car goes really straight. This is the key to achieve high speeds with minimal damage. Also weights on the front end is important, people use about 1 pound 0.5 ounces or something like that. I have heard that the 2200kv has that much power people running 100 mph are running on half throttle. We still dont know for sure how vaild those "100 mph" runs are, specially since some claim to run 100 mph with 3s battery...

    OP: What other parts are you using, for example tires, gyro, shocks?

  7. #7
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    If you are going to race it, it will not perform that well. Unless you plan on rolling over the jump's and pinning the throttle every other place. The rear is going to be so heavy it will be hard to keep level in the air.
    *Proud Husband of United state's Air Force wife.*

  8. #8
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    I suppose hes going to do straight line speed runs. Because a speedrunner wont perform good in circuit racing.

  9. #9
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    i guess i will leave my mamba max pro in it with the 1410. it runs great now and dont really feel like fixing it evey time i bring it out.
    *ERBE
    *Rustler MMP 1410
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Petertje60 View Post
    I just wonder why you are using the 2200Kv instead of the 2650 one.
    I'm only using the 2200kv because I sold my e revo brushless as a roller and kept the motor and esc. It was just laying around so I bought a rustler roller on eBay. I would much rather prefer the 2650kv but I have no choice. Lol

    Definitely getting a gyro soon and need a gear to get it moving.
    Uploading pics today

  11. #11
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    Here are some pics of what I did so far. Not much, it doesn't go anywhere yet, but soon I will. It has rpm arms all around, caster blocks, front and rear bearing carriers, rpm bumper and integy gearbox. Need wheels that's for sure....

    The motor and gearbox. Hmmm somethings missing...

    Mounted my on/off switch to the side with some double sided tape. Works good


    Just a view from above

    I'll be posting as the build goes along so stay tuned thanks

  12. #12
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    Nice pics so far, may I suggest that you flip the front bumper and lower the car a bit?

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    That was going to be my next modification. I got some fuel line to put inside the shafts of the shocks to lower it. Also will be getting weight for the front.

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    Here are some pics of it lowered. Did it today


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    Nice lowering, what kind of weight are you getting? Sticky tire weights or custom metall plate? Myself I went with tire weights but if I would do it again I would go with a solid metall piece of some kind in the front. Will you be getting alloy caps and TiN shafts for the shocks as well? Sorry for stressing but im exited to see another speedrun build.

    Will you be aiming on 100 mph only, or will you be doing high speed runs because of the fun factor a.k.a SLHSB (straight line high speed bashing) .

  16. #16
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    Did you up the shock oil weight? As what ttThree said use solid plate metal if you can.
    *Proud Husband of United state's Air Force wife.*

  17. #17
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    I was thinking about the weight, many people on youtube have their weight under the shock tower and after. If we could bring most of the weight infront of the shock tower then we would need less weight I would guess, because we use that specific weight more effective. Either you take metall plates and attatch to the bumper, or make a extended upper chassis so you can stock weight more to the front, similar to what I did. But without a scale it would be hard.

    This is what I mean by using weight in a uneffective way:



    Versus:


    Same weight but used more effective.

  18. #18
    Marshal ksb51rl's Avatar
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    Stock rear shock tower, no wheelie bar, and stock(ish) drive shafts...interesting setup. Are you planning to change any of these?
    Alt-248 on the number pad = °

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    I'm using 50wt shock oil because it's the only oil I had and have. I don't have a wheelie bar because I just started this build and son have all of the parts yet. I will be getting a wheelie bar/skid plate and the slash 4x4 heavy duty drive shafts. I also am definitely going to use weights up front. I dot know where to get some. Any recommendations?
    Last edited by Nitroelectric; 06-18-2012 at 05:37 AM.

  20. #20
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Desert JATO's Avatar
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    Nitroelectric ...

    that's a very nice clean built keep on the great work and keep updating !

    as for placing weight at the front, i suggest placing kids clay ( don't know what it's called ) that one used in kinder garden classes.
    it's easy to add, remove, design and even matched color

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Desert JATO View Post
    Nitroelectric ...

    that's a very nice clean built keep on the great work and keep updating !

    as for placing weight at the front, i suggest placing kids clay ( don't know what it's called ) that one used in kinder garden classes.
    it's easy to add, remove, design and even matched color
    Thanks man! I will be updating as the build goes along. I have finals from
    Tuesday to Friday so there are other things on my plate. I will be getting upgrades as I need wheels, a spur gear, weight, a skid plate, gyro and that's about it. I like the clay idea, I will definitely put that into consideration thanks

  22. #22
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    The clay hes refering to is "putty", as seen in dravens video. How ever he use fishing weight inside that putty, and also additional weight behind the shock tower, which he does not mention. I vote for tire weight (you can find them in auto tire shops) or solid metal plates around 1 pound. Since this is a strictly speedrun rusty i believe, theres no need to remove the weight on the front.

    I also recommend a alloy bulkhead to the front, which prevents the pins to bend in a crash. I use a two piece, but one piece bulkhead is what people recommend.

    You are looking to spend big bucks to make this a 100 mph build.
    Last edited by ttThree; 06-18-2012 at 10:23 AM.

  23. #23
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    Here are some of it with the body. Also installed an underglow kit that I had in my e revo.


    I am not really considering using this at night, but maybe duskish time.

  24. #24
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    Found a 54T spur laying around and put it on. The truck works!

  25. #25
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    What gear are you intend to use while speedrunning?

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by ttThree View Post
    What gear are you intend to use while speedrunning?
    Like a 34T

  27. #27
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    smaller spur bigger pinion is speed, larger spur smaller pinion is torque. You will not be able to fit a 54t spur with the 34t pinion.
    *Proud Husband of United state's Air Force wife.*

  28. #28
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    I dont know about the spur vs pinion size, some 100 mph rustlers have 1:1 gearing. You need alot of torque pushing that thing in high speeds with all that extra weight. Not saying weight affects top speed, but it affects how fast you get there.

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by I EAT DIRT View Post
    smaller spur bigger pinion is speed, larger spur smaller pinion is torque. You will not be able to fit a 54t spur with the 34t pinion.
    I never said I was going to use a 34T pinion and 54T spur. I just used a 24T pinion and 54T spur to see if everything worked internally with the gearbox. I'll probably either do a 1:1 like 34/34 or something else.

  30. #30
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    Encountered a problem. Gonna bring it to my local hobby store to see what the problem is. It accelerates when the wheels are off the ground but when I put the car down it just moves extremely slowly. It sounds like the gears aren't meshing right or something. I took apart and check the gearbox 5 times. :/ I have no idea

  31. #31
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    Okay, if theres no binding what so ever in gearbox or the wheels, then maybe the esc is messed up? Im no expert with castle, but you can reset the esc thru castle link. Any other that has encountered this problem with the mamba monster and 2200kv engine? I suppose you have fully charged battery as well, but this shouldnt be happening.
    Last edited by ttThree; 06-20-2012 at 12:46 PM.

  32. #32
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    Yeah I think it might have something to do with the esc because if it works fine not planted on the ground theres no reason it shouldn't do the same on the ground. thanks I'll try to get it working

  33. #33
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    Okay, the worst case scenario would be to send it back if you have warranty. Didnt your system came from a traxxas vehicle? So I guess the warranty would still be vaild.

  34. #34
    Marshal Dadx2mj's Avatar
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    Sound to me like the pin on the top shaft is sheared off on the inside of the tranny. The top gear is pressed on so it drives fine with the wheels in the air and no load but it slips when it is on the round under a load it slips.
    BlindMan Racing
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  35. #35
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    Intresting, how did you come to that conclution? Many +++ to you if thats the case.

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dadx2mj View Post
    Sound to me like the pin on the top shaft is sheared off on the inside of the tranny. The top gear is pressed on so it drives fine with the wheels in the air and no load but it slips when it is on the round under a load it slips.
    Hmmm I'll check it out and post if that's the case

  37. #37
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Petertje60's Avatar
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    Did you check for stripped wheel hexes?

    Edit:
    Lol. Only read the first page when I replied this. Dad might be very right. As usual
    Nobody is born with experience

  38. #38
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    Okay nothing is stripped it may just be my stupidity.
    1. The rusty is brand new, never ran before. Purchased as a roller.
    Just to get that cleared up, when I put throttle when on the ground, the spur spins but is slipping on the slipper wayyy too much. What did I do wrong. Thanks if u tell me before I figure this out.
    Last edited by Nitroelectric; 06-20-2012 at 02:59 PM.

  39. #39
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Petertje60's Avatar
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    If nothing changes when you tighten the slipper clutch, then Dad is probably right.
    Nobody is born with experience

  40. #40
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    Tightened the spur and then it worked. Gave it like no throttle what so ever and heard a crackling sound. Gonna take apart the gearbox and check it out

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