New guy needs help!!!

[brandon980120]

I have a used Nitro Rustler with what I believe is the .15 engine (not sure) it also has the EZ start and I'm having problems keeping it running. Ive been holding my finger on the exhaust to prime and start however once I take my finger off of the exhaust the motor winds up for about a second and dies. If I give any throttle it dies immediately w/ or w/o finger over exhaust. If I apply the brake the engine will idle w/o my finger on the exhaust but the idle seems a little high but I'm not entirely sure. I've changed to a brand new glow plug also. Any suggestions? Thanks.....

[NitroMethaneRunninThruMyVeins]

well its either way too rich or way too lean. return your needles back to the factory settings. 1mm gap for the idle screw. put the low speed needle flush with the ring around it, and put your high speed needle 4 turns out from closed. it will run much better at those settings but will not be perfectly tuned yet. once you get those set, let us know how its running.

[mindy9773]

First off on the engine body itself, it will either say 15 or 2.5. Second it sounds like the throttle and brake linkage adjustment. Here is the instructions for adjusting from traxxas http://traxxas.com/support/Throttle-...age-Adjustment

[BigEll]

You should take caution into priming the engine too much. Once fuel reaches the carb, stop priming or you run the risk of flooding the engine.
In order to clear a flooded engine, remove the glow plug, turn the truck upside down with a rag on the cooling head and turn the ez-start for about 5 seconds. That should clear any excess fuel.
Return the needles to factory settings as mentioned above and try to get it running then.

[mindy9773]

Never heard of a flooded engine starting! It's called hydro lock! The following statement is from traxxas The engine can become flooded if it is primed too many times during the course of a routine startup. When the engine is flooded, the EZ-Starter cannot turn the engine and it will appear to be locked. His starts, leading me to believe it is not flooded!! But returning needles to factory is always good advise for a beginner or anyone for that matter.

[Powerman]

LSN to lean. Sounds like its starving of fuel. It will have a high idle due to being lean on the bottom end. Rest needles to factory. Tune the HSN first. Then set your LSN using pinch test. If that doesnt work. Clean the carb. Might have some old fuel plugging it up. Just soak in alcohol or fuel to loosen up any deposits.

[brandon980120]

Thanks for all of the quick responses!!! I did some adjusting on the needles and was able to get it running and was also able to drive a full tank of fuel through it!!! However I am noticing that there is what appears to be fuel coming out of the exhaust is this normal? I've also noticed the same blueish smoke the comes from the exhaust coming from around the engine but not entirely sure where it's coming from does this sound normal? Both of those observations lead me to believe it's to rich but I can't seem to adjust to correct.--Powerman I'm not familiar with the "pinch test" would you elaborate please? Also I've been taking the air filter off and putting the after run oil in that opening is that correct?

[mindy9773]

The low-speed mixture is always set after the high-speed needle is correctly adjusted.The low-speed mixture will be set using the pinch test.
Once the engine is warm, do several high-speed runs to confirm that the high-speed needle is set correctly.
Bring the vehicle in and pinch closed the fuel line going into the carburetor. The engine should run for two-to-three seconds, speed up, and then die.
If the engine runs longer than three seconds, lean the low-speed needle 1/16 turn, make several more high speed runs, and retest.
If the engine dies immediately without speeding up, richen the low-speed needle 1/8 turn, make several more high speed runs, and retest.
When the low-speed needle is set correctly, the engine's throttle response should be very quick, possibly even to the point of making it difficult to keep the vehicle from doing a wheelie when you accelerate!

[Monte_1977]

Have you tested the compression? Try turning the the flywheel with your finger or thumb from the bottom of the vehicle.There should be a good amount of resistance. If there isnt, then its either time for a new piston and sleeve or even better yet in my opinion, you can take advantage of the Traxxas Engine Replacement plan and upgrade to a 3.3. With the 3.3 you will notice a significant increase in power over the 2.5/2.5R or the Pro .15 engines.

[BigEll]

However I am noticing that there is what appears to be fuel coming out of the exhaust is this normal? I've also noticed the same blueish smoke the comes from the exhaust coming from around the engine but not entirely sure where it's coming from does this sound normal? Both of those observations lead me to believe it's to rich but I can't seem to adjust to correct.

Fuel coming out of the exhaust is normal as long as it's not spewing.lol
As far as exhaust coming from around the engine, you may want to check your header for cracks, the o-ring under the header and the pipe coupler for cracks.

Remember..Too rich isn't bad, too lean is. If you lean the needles, take care in watching the temps and blue smoke from the exhaust.

[brandon980120]

Hate to keep being a bother but you guy have been so helpful I can't stop asking!!! My next situation is that I can't tune the idle because the screw does seem to do anything to the gap? I've been tuning the idle with the throttle trim which I read was not a good idea? Also would anybody care to explain where exactly to apply after run oil? Thanks again!!

[BigEll]

Are you sure it's not changing the gap? The gap should only be about 0.7-1.0 mm wide. After you adjust it, run the car WOT and check again. And yes, using the Throttle trim to adjust idle is a bad thing

The After-Run Oil should be applied straight down into the engine via the Glow Plug hole & into the carburetor via the air filter body. I use WD-40 and I usually spray a 1 sec. burst in both openings. Then turn the engine over upright for about 5 seconds & then upside down to drain excess WD-40. Hope this helped

[TwoBobRob]

My apologies for the forthcoming stupid question....

Sooo..... are you sure you're turning the correct screw? Sorry for asking.

I tend to whip the air filter off and have a look first. Open the throttle, give the screw a turn and close the throttle and look for a difference. Doing it this way prevents and damage being done to the carb components by trying to push the slide open with the screw.

Add after run oil as our friend has explained, and it's not a bad habit to get into to leave the engine at Bottom Dead Centre where the piston is least likely to jam in the liner.

[brandon980120]

Haha only stupid questions around here are mine!!! But to answer your question no I'm honestly not entirely sure I am adjusting the correct needle however I took the throttle and brake linkage apart and was able to adjust to the desired gap (using the screw that has a spring under it coming off the side of the carb and hidden by the air filter?) then I zeroed out the throttle trim then reattached the throttle and brake linkage which looks as if it solved the problem. For some reason I noticed that when the throttle was in neutral the "T" shaped piece coming off the servo was not parallel with servo as most pictures show so I adjusted to what I believe is the factory position and seems to have corrected the issue. Next couple of question I have are is this model equipped with a fail safe and if not should it be and if so could you all suggest a couple? Also does it have a 2 speed transmission or not so much?

[BigEll]

Haha only stupid questions around here are mine!!! But to answer your question no I'm honestly not entirely sure I am adjusting the correct needle however I took the throttle and brake linkage apart and was able to adjust to the desired gap (using the screw that has a spring under it coming off the side of the carb and hidden by the air filter?) then I zeroed out the throttle trim then reattached the throttle and brake linkage which looks as if it solved the problem.

Idle Screw


Idle Gap

You should not have to remove the throttle/brake linkage to adjust the idle screw. The only needle you might need to remove to adjust it is the LSN. The gap you're probably referring to is the rod that attaches to the carb from the servo horn

For some reason I noticed that when the throttle was in neutral the "T" shaped piece coming off the servo was not parallel with servo as most pictures show so I adjusted to what I believe is the factory position and seems to have corrected the issue.

That's fine. The "T shaped piece" you're referring to is the servo horn. My horn wasn't straight for a while until I made it for ease of seeing if something was out of place. As long as your carb slide closes and your brakes aren't prematurely engaged, it doesn't matter if the horn is a little off.

Next couple of question I have are is this model equipped with a fail safe and if not should it be and if so could you all suggest a couple? Also does it have a 2 speed transmission or not so much?

The model isn't equipped with a fail safe unless you have the 2.4 GHz radio, then it is built in. I bought a Venom fail safe and it has worked flawlessly. Then again, my truck doesn't have a reason to fail.lol
Nitro Rustler has a single speed transmission however there is a mod that allows you to put a Jato 2-speed in. A guy on here did it and there's pictures in the gallery and a thread here

Hope you get everything all figured out.

[NitroMethaneRunninThruMyVeins]

I dont suggest putting in the 2 speed jato tranny unless you have alot of time tools and money to dump into it, you have to make many modifications to make room for second gear to fit/work correctly

[BigEll]

Here is a picture of my FailSafe and how I decided to mount it

[TwoBobRob]

Alrighty then.

The little screw with the spring under it IS your idle screw.

The other two are your needles - High and Low speed jobbies.

A steady stream of light blue smoke under full power acceleration is pretty perfect. If you tune so there's no smoke, you are going to be too lean - bad times....

Fit a failsafe if there's not one built into your radio gear.

Fiddle around with stuff until you can get full throttle one way, full brake the other and a nice coast along inbetween - with your trim set in the centre. This may take some time, patience is required.

[brandon980120]

Alright I think I'm starting to get this figured out!! Definitely not ready for any 2 speed tranny conversions I had just read somewhere on here that 2 speed trannys were available but wasn't sure if mine was equipped and since it obviously wasn't shifting I was just checking to make sure I was getting the most out of it!! I think I'm all out of questions for now been spending a lot of time out in the shed tinkering with it taking it apart and seeing how everything works then reassembling. I absolutely appreciated the super quick and friendly responses!!!

[NitroMethaneRunninThruMyVeins]

you should stick around, this sport is awesome. when i first got into nitro i actually got out of it because of tuning issues. (i was 12 though) now im 23 and figured the tuning thing out finally, now im addicted. like have to run at least a tank in my front yard every day or dont feel right addicted lol

[brandon980120]

Oh don't take that post the wrong way I'm not going anywhere!!!! But I think I've got the basics figured out thanks to you guys... I'll absolutely be surfing this site regularly and driving my r/c even more!!!!

[NitroMethaneRunninThruMyVeins]

sounds good! i just ordered a tuned pipe for my nitro rusty and it should be here tomorrow or the next day. im pretty stoked, i think it should be enough to hold me over until this engine wears out then im going 3.3

[brandon980120]

Just out of curiosity what kind of lifespan is expected of these engines? I'm about 98% sure mine has the .15 in it and I can't decide if I want to get a tuned pipe since mine has exhaust coming off it somewhere or if I just want to wait until the engine gives and I'll go with the 2.5 and the conversion kit. I really don't know how well the previous too care of the engine so I can only assume the worst....

[TwoBobRob]

The .15 looks quite different, you should be able to tell by comparing to 2.5 & 3.3 - those two look very similar.

The exhaust manifolds are different, so getting your hands on a tuned pipe might not be that simple, whereas all manner of goodies are easily available for 2.5 & 3.3s.

I have a .15 in mine and I fully intend up buy a larger engine when the time comes but for now, I'm having fun learning with my little motor.

As you don't know your engine's history, I would make plans to upgrade.

I've been told the lifespan of these things can vary between 5 and 10 gallons, depending on tune and care. I don't know myself, I'm still a total novice and a complete part timer, I have only put about a gallon through my mine so far.

One thing for you to do right away however, kit yourself out with tools and check every single fastener. I guarantee you'll find something loose. Pay special attention to the carb and the head. If these are loose it'll play all sorts of games as you try to tune correctly.

[NitroMethaneRunninThruMyVeins]

you should get many gallons of fun out of it, more than people will tell you. because most of them race and need as much power as they can get. the .15 says .15 on the engine, the 2.5 says 2.5 and the 3.3 says 3.3 lol, it should say on your engine. post a picture and ill be able to tell you instantly. and i would get the tuned pipe. it moves the power to a better spot in the powerband and the sound is sexual compared to the plastic craptastic stock exhaust

[BigEll]

Lol, that word "s" word at the end of your post probably won't fly if a mod comes through. Just a heads up.

[NitroMethaneRunninThruMyVeins]

lol i wasnt aware that it was inappropriate. if they feel it is i will accept my 5 negative points or whatever it is. i actually try really hard not to cuss on this forum, you should hear me in real life lol

[Shaggy101086]

To be blunt, don't put cash into a used engine when you don't know its past. I got a week out of the used 2.5 that came in my first rusty. On average you should get about 10 gallons but theres a million factors to take in. I got a 3.3 after the 2.5 went and it only lasted for about one year and about 4 gallons. That was the engine I learned on. My next 3.3 lasted just under 3 years and about 14 gallons. Your engine will last for years if you know how and put the effort into the after run work before you put it away. The key is to leave NO fuel left in the engine and crab, leave the piston at the bottom, only use a couple drops of after run oil. The more oil you use, the harder it will be to start next time. When starting, think about your engine, how it works and what she wants and needs; the right amount of fuel, oil, air and spark. Always use good fuel and shake before you put it in the truck. Trust me, if you forget to shake it, your going to have a headache. Make sure your filters are clean and always check the plug before you try to start it for the day. Continue to check and replace plugs though the day as soon as they show signs of dulling. If you try to get every pennies worth out of your plugs, you will have another headache. From here, its all about the tune. I'd call traxxas and ask for a dvd on tuning your engine. The dvd was a huge help for me cause you can clearly see how traxxas wants you to do things as opposed to just reading what we type. Soon enough you will learn about your starter, clutch, tranny and other key parts but for now worry about learning the engine. its sounds like your on the right path. We all kill out first engines from learning so just dive right in. Good luck

[Monte_1977]

I recently got this book and i highly recommend it.

http://www.rccaraction.com/blog/2012...trol-vehicles/

[NitroMethaneRunninThruMyVeins]

I recently got this book and i highly recommend it.

http://www.rccaraction.com/blog/2012...trol-vehicles/

does it go super deep into detail or what? i dont see how they could write a whole book on nitro tuning lol. but if it is quality i might buy it anyways just to have around, even tho my engine is tuned perfectly haha

[Monte_1977]

I apologize that I didn't reply sooner. This book does go into deep detail and worth every penny spent on it.

[BigEll]

lol i wasnt aware that it was inappropriate. if they feel it is i will accept my 5 negative points or whatever it is. i actually try really hard not to cuss on this forum, you should hear me in real life lol

Lol, same here. The mods just try to make it very family friendly. There's some kid on here that's 10, so I can understand.

I apologize that I didn't reply sooner. This book does go into deep detail and worth every penny spent on it.

Did you order it directly from them?

[Shaggy101086]

I like the idea of books out there but i'm to cheap to buy it. Some of us know all about tuning and all of us can get the info online for free. I'm sure the book is worth the cash to some people but i'm broke lol.