Up graded slash transmission

[rag6]

I have had a few traxxas plastic trans builds that had to have the screws a little looser than fully tight, or the trans would drag. Have also seen a few reviews of the race bred trucks in the magazines where the author recommended the same thing, and some running to break in the gears.

If those gears are molded, they will need a little run time to wear in as opposed to machined gears that should be on point from the getgo...

If I had one here right now, I would install a motor in the trans, before installing the gearbox in the truck, and run that motor in the gearbox using the throttle trim, with the screws a little loose(no axles or even installed in the truck.). I would then evenly tighten every screw 1/4 to an 1/8th turn until you hear the rpms drop. At that point, back that screw off a 1/16th of a turn until the rpms go back up, and do all the other screws the same way. After the trans has had some run time, I would see if I could get those screws a little tighter before the rpms fall off from binding. After a pack or 2 of this those gears should be worn in, and the tightness of the gearbox screws should be at the right tension. That is the way I would approach it initially...

[harry697]

Sounds about right. I usually just spin the top shaft by hand and tighten each screw until I feel the slightest hint of resistance. Then back it off about 1/8th of a turn.

Not sure if any of those using this trans are doing it, but it's mandatory to use blue loctite on the threads since it's threading into aluminum. If not, no matter how tight you make the screws, they're gonna back out eventually. The loctite will also allow you to leave the screws fairly loose without having them fall out.

[orca44]

harry697 and rag6 both have made excellent suggestions for this tranny set up. The only thing I did not do was the loctite on the screws and I will do that today as a precaution.

I still think it is a great performance upgrade and good bang for the buck. Only time will tell on the longevity of the tranny and mine has been getting a good work out.

The track here at home does not have alot of big jumps but is mostly natural terrain to resemble a short course track, a couple uphill and downhill jumps, a small stutter bump section, two tight turns and with a few sweepers and dips etc. We designed the track so that it can be run in both directions. Gives a truck a decent work out.

[rag6]

Nice big playground ya got there

[cunawarit]

orca44 , man! You live in a great place!!!!

Do you have a high up place to drive there, or do you just stand on a car/truck or summat?

[orca44]

orca44 , man! You live in a great place!!!!

Do you have a high up place to drive there, or do you just stand on a car/truck or summat?

Most of the time we stand right about where the photo was taken or at the top of the hill just right of the U turn.

This is a view to the right of where we stand, viewing a big step-up, which none of us have been able to clear. Close but no cigar .Believe it or not the track is also lighted for night driving which has been great for the warm summer evenings.



I have 5.5 acres total here and this track is on the south west portion of the house and we have a supercross track north of the house that we are down sizeing for 1/5 scale rc and I should have that completed in another 3-4 weeks. We are trying to use that track for the grand kids to ride as well as rc stuff....

[cunawarit]

Very nice, reminds me of my granddad's farm when I was growing up. Sadly I wasn't into RC then

[orca44]

Well today while running on my track the new Proline Transmission gave up . When I took it apart the idler gear (middle one) has some stripped teeth .
I called proline but they were already closed...
I have been driving this same truck for over a year and never have stripped any gears in the stock tranny, lost a few spur gears but nothing in the tranny or differental.
I was not driving any different than any other days, just out for a nice afternoon ride... Don't know why it happened, no dirt or debris in there other than broken plastic teeth.
Hopefully Proline has the gear that I need to get it running again or at least where I may find one that will work, I had to leave a message with them to please return my call.
Well at least I have another Slash to play with and can always put the stock tranny back in this one.

[bigdodge44150]

Well today while running on my track the new Proline Transmission gave up . When I took it apart the idler gear (middle one) has some stripped teeth .
I called proline but they were already closed...
I have been driving this same truck for over a year and never have stripped any gears in the stock tranny, lost a few spur gears but nothing in the tranny or differental.
I was not driving any different than any other days, just out for a nice afternoon ride... Don't know why it happened, no dirt or debris in there other than broken plastic teeth.
Hopefully Proline has the gear that I need to get it running again or at least where I may find one that will work, I had to leave a message with them to please return my call.
Well at least I have another Slash to play with and can always put the stock tranny back in this one.

It has plastic gears in the trans ? the factory slash came with metal gears and will they not swap into that proline trans ?

[orca44]

Update.......I happen to have a new Traxxas metal idler gear part #3696 (30 tooth metal) and it does fit. I removed the bearings from the proline gear and put it in, all seems to work properly but I am not going to run it untill I hear back from Proline.

It was just lucky to have one on my parts peg board and it looked close so just had to try... But I will wait to hear from the powers to be!!!!

[TheSlash101]

@Toyboarder
Where did you buy those red springs from they look awesome

[kwitty]

Update.......I happen to have a new Traxxas metal idler gear part #3696 (30 tooth metal) and it does fit. I removed the bearings from the proline gear and put it in, all seems to work properly but I am not going to run it untill I hear back from Proline.

It was just lucky to have one on my parts peg board and it looked close so just had to try... But I will wait to hear from the powers to be!!!!

By chance were your running the trans with the gear cover on or off?

[orca44]

I had the gear cover on and there was just some very fine dust inside the plastic cover.

I was really surprised to see the teeth broken off, I do mean whole teeth broke off. I'll take a few pic's in the morning and post them.

But up to the failure it was running good!!!!

[kwitty]

I had the gear cover on and there was just some very fine dust inside the plastic cover.

I was really surprised to see the teeth broken off, I do mean whole teeth broke off. I'll take a few pic's in the morning and post them.

But up to the failure it was running good!!!!

Reason I asked is because the two screws that hold the gear cover on actually are important to align the motor plate and align and secure the trans halves. I will be curious to hear your outcome....

[rag6]

Well today while running on my track the new Proline Transmission gave up . When I took it apart the idler gear (middle one) has some stripped teeth .
I called proline but they were already closed...
I have been driving this same truck for over a year and never have stripped any gears in the stock tranny, lost a few spur gears but nothing in the tranny or differental.
I was not driving any different than any other days, just out for a nice afternoon ride... Don't know why it happened, no dirt or debris in there other than broken plastic teeth.
Hopefully Proline has the gear that I need to get it running again or at least where I may find one that will work, I had to leave a message with them to please return my call.
Well at least I have another Slash to play with and can always put the stock tranny back in this one.

were you using any lube for those gears?

[harry697]

The idler gear was always the weak link in the Traxxas transmission, especially when they came with plastic gears. I was really surprised to see that the PL trans had a plastic idler. I think I kinda called it on the idler being suspect in one of these recent threads.

[rag6]

Update.......I happen to have a new Traxxas metal idler gear part #3696 (30 tooth metal) and it does fit. I removed the bearings from the proline gear and put it in, all seems to work properly but I am not going to run it untill I hear back from Proline.

It was just lucky to have one on my parts peg board and it looked close so just had to try... But I will wait to hear from the powers to be!!!!

in prolines vid part 3, they say to use the trx idler gear if you want.

[orca44]

The idler gear was always the weak link in the Traxxas transmission, especially when they came with plastic gears. I was really surprised to see that the PL trans had a plastic idler. I think I kinda called it on the idler being suspect in one of these recent threads.

Yes .... You called that one.... I hope when proline gets back to me today they will approve the use of the Traxxas metal idler gear or offer some other solution to what may be a bigger problem in the future.

I do not bash drive, I use very controlled driving, especially off jumps, as landing with throttle on will stress parts.

rag6.... I was not using any lube on the tranny gears, but there was a small, I mean minute amount of grease (green) that may have come from the bearings in the tranny portion.
I will go back and watch that vid part 3 again.....Thanks for bringing that up!!!!

[rag6]

maybe a little grease would have saved that idler.

matt from proline already approved the use of that idler in vid 3:

http://www.prolineracing.com/blog/pr...ission-part-3/

[O.G.]

Reason I asked is because the two screws that hold the gear cover on actually are important to align the motor plate and align and secure the trans halves. I will be curious to hear your outcome....

You know I ran mine without those bolts in for a while, didn't think about it. But then I got a SS bolt kit and replaced everything including those screws.

Sent from the cockpit of my Jeep Wrangler

[kwitty]

You know I ran mine without those bolts in for a while, didn't think about it. But then I got a SS bolt kit and replaced everything including those screws.

Sent from the cockpit of my Jeep Wrangler

Ooooops LOL

[kwitty]

Yes .... You called that one.... I hope when proline gets back to me today they will approve the use of the Traxxas metal idler gear or offer some other solution to what may be a bigger problem in the future.

I do not bash drive, I use very controlled driving, especially off jumps, as landing with throttle on will stress parts.

rag6.... I was not using any lube on the tranny gears, but there was a small, I mean minute amount of grease (green) that may have come from the bearings in the tranny portion.
I will go back and watch that vid part 3 again.....Thanks for bringing that up!!!!

I too noticed a very very lean amount of gear grease, I think when I 'filled' my gear case I oozed a little 5k silicone lube onto the diff gear, I hope it shared with the above gears

[Raptorpede]

Going to be sure to check how it's greased when mine comes in.

[orca44]

I just got off the phone with Proline..... First the pic's of broken idler gear

Idler gear



Broken teeth



New Traxxas gear



Now for the results of what most likely caused the gear to strip.

1. I had the glutch spring adjusted too tight.. I was 1 to 1 1/4 turns out. Proline said that it should be between 3 to 4 1/2 turns out.
2. Because when under severe breaking all the load (when the motor stops) is applied to the idler gear.
3. Proline experienced this very thing in their testing and found the slipper clutch needed to be as I stated above, 3 to 4 1/2 turns out, that is why it comes 4 1/2 turns out......
4. And proline said by all means that I can use the Traxxas idler gear but ofcourse if I had paid more attention to vid #3 I'd known that already huh!!!!

Proline said the reason for the plastic gear was to keep the rotating mass down, their idea is good, I wish they had made mention or more info on the clutch spring adjustment. The fellow I spoke with emphasized no tighter than 3 turns out... So I will give that a whirl right after this and order some replacement parts

The long and short of it is I was driving through the rhythm section of our track and applied the breaks hard after the last small jump to make a tight right hand turn and when I applied throttle, that ripppppping sound accured and the rest is history......

[Raptorpede]

I'm surprised the diff ( out side gear ) didn't go with it, so that means the diff is strong.

[kwitty]

My intial question when I called PL about the slipper adjust was why there was no info on stock setting, I noticed that mine before disassembly was about 4 1/2 out. The response was apologetic and suggested that the info should have been shared, the guideline I was given was to have 3mm of thread showing and work in or out from there.

I doubt you had any slipper action working for you once you got down to 2 1/2 or so since 2WD traction is somewhat limited even with the best tire and track surface. Blacktop or concrete being different however.

Your findings are good to know, easy to have a spare idler though I am likely to keep in the plastic one. I am glad you shared the tight slipper setting, that was helpful in understanding what may have took place

[harry697]

4. And proline said by all means that I can use the Traxxas idler gear but ofcourse if I had paid more attention to vid #3 I'd known that already huh!!!!

Proline said the reason for the plastic gear was to keep the rotating mass down, their idea is good, I wish they had made mention or more info on the clutch spring adjustment.

Speaking of rotating mass, I just thought of something. Why not use the Traxxas aluminum idler? Way lighter than steel and way stronger than plastic.


The slipper being too tight makes sense, but IMO it shouldn't be the deciding factor of whether your transmission grenades or not. I can lock the slipper on my T4 and do standing back flips without stripping the idler. Just sayin'.

[kwitty]

^^^aluminum idler, I didn't know that existed! Cool

Slipper being tight and using 'brakes' was said to be the contributing factor, not just a tight slipper....just sayin
2. Because when under severe breaking all the load (when the motor stops) is applied to the idler gear.

Though I guess that idler really is an important component to the driveline.

Orca44, I hope I never hear that 'ripping' sound LOL

Harry, you know I fully respect your knowledge of performance gear

[orca44]

I put ye old ride back together using the Traxxas idler gear .... all is good even though I only ran one 2s (about 20 min worth).

Note to self....Do not over tighten slipper clutch

I will look into the aluminum idler gear... Good to know!! Is it made by Traxxas or aftermarket? Thanks

I should have mentioned this earlier, the stock Traxxas motor mounting screws, on the left in the pic, the heads are too large to allow the slipper gear cover to seal correctly. Mainly the lower right mounting hole, at least that was my finding. So you may need to use the smaller ones on the right in the pic, (3mm x6mm)

[harry697]

^^^aluminum idler, I didn't know that existed! Cool

Slipper being tight and using 'brakes' was said to be the contributing factor, not just a tight slipper....just sayin
2. Because when under severe breaking all the load (when the motor stops) is applied to the idler gear.

Though I guess that idler really is an important component to the driveline.

Orca44, I hope I never hear that 'ripping' sound LOL

Harry, you know I fully respect your knowledge of performance gear

I completely understand what they're saying about ths slipper and brakes and everything as far as stress to the idler. But think about it this way; The slipper setting honestly can't be a set number of turns. A starting point yes, but not an exact setting. That's why there's a nut on the end with a nice rubber or plastic access plug on the gear cover for ease of adjustment.

Say you're running in a 17.5 class on a slippery surface. Chances are you're gonna want to run a loose slipper. Now, say you're running a 6.5 motor on a high-bite clay track or even carpet. Run that slipper the same as you do with a 17.5 on a slippery track and it's gonna melt. Combine that mod motor, tight slipper, high traction and throw in a double that lands you into a hard corner (fairly common setup). You're gonna need to get on the binders hard upon landing the jump to be able to make the turn. See where I'm going with this? IMO you just can't say run your slipper at such and such and don't use too much brake. Just won't work where I run.

Don't get me wrong, I'm not bashing this transmission. I actually think it's one of the best upgrades for the Rustler/Slash/Bandit/Stampede line that has ever hit the market! It's just that there are some obvious issues that should have been dealt with before it hit the shelves. Here's another thing to think about. The Magnum trans always suffered from a weak idler gear. That's why they offered the aluminum idler (1996x) long before the steel VXL trans was ever even thought of. Sure it's easy enough to just buy one an install it in the PL trans, but why should you have to if it has been a known weak point since sometime in the 90's? I'm not sure if it's legal or whatever for them to do it, but if I were at PL and in charge of this new trans, I would just build them with the aluminum Traxxas idler. It would definitely cure one issue.

I should probably also mention that Traxxas used to (and maybe still does) say that you can't use the aluminum idler against a steel gear (top gear). But the older Traxxas guys proved it to be a reliable setup many years ago, so I wouldn't hesitate to try it with the PL trans.

kwitty, I really appreciate all your insight and experience with this product. You seem to be one of the newer guys that has learned a whole lot in a short time and can also read through all these forums and products and decipher what is accurate/good and what is not so accurate/good. I don't want you to think I'm arguing with you or bashing this product. That's not my intent at all. I'm just one of those people that will call it how I see it. If it doesn't work, I don't try to dance around the issue. I'll try my best to find a way to make it work and if it doesn't, it gets thrown to the side and the search begins for something better. This trans appears to be an awesome upgrade and I think it just needs some "fine tuning" to make it bullet proof.



BTW, the aluminum idler is Traxxas part number 1996x for those asking.

[rag6]

Try not to get any of that 5000 wt oil on the gears. It will cause even more drag... Use a small amount of white lithium.

[Raptorpede]

Could you use the Traxxas white lithium grease? If so do you have a part # as I can't seem to find it.

[Raptorpede]

The only thing I have is some diff lube and I've been using that as I can't find the Traxxas grease.

[rag6]

Just pick up a tube from the hardware store. You will get about 100x as much for the same price or cheaper. I have a tube that is 4 years old with 80% left....

[Raptorpede]

I wasn't able to find any and that why I was wonder what the part number for the Traxxas stuff is. I can make those Traxxas tubes last a about a year.

[harry697]

Does PL say whether to use any lube on the gears or not? I know AE instructions show the trans going together dry. Then again, all my AE stuff has ball diffs and some diff lube ends up on the trans gears from running.

[Raptorpede]

Maybe I will E-Mail Pro-Line then about lubing the gears.

[kwitty]

Does PL say whether to use any lube on the gears or not? I know AE instructions show the trans going together dry. Then again, all my AE stuff has ball diffs and some diff lube ends up on the trans gears from running.

My last conversation today with Matt......pretty dry on the gear set is fine. No need to lube them up I was told.
Harry, mutual respect to you and I fully understand, appreciate and love your challenges on topics too!

By the way, Proline is shutting down for vacation, we are likely to be on our own to mess things up for a bit LOL!

[Raptorpede]

I still throw abit on to help cushion the gears and reduce wear.

[kwitty]

I successfully installed a 28t pinion on this trans that appears to be max size relative to the room in the slots to adjust proper mesh. It did not rub on the cover.

Also just sharing this reply on other topics we have been discussing, from Aaron at PL:
The best way to sum up adjusting / fine tuning the slipper tension is you want it about 4 to 4 1/2 turns out from full tight (Pre-Adjusted from the factory). If you can hear the slipper for more than two seconds from take off, then tighten it 1/2 increment turns until the slipper can only be heard about 1 seconds fro take off. Anything under 3 turns from full tight is too much and can damage the idler gear.

We originally designed the transmission mostly for racing with low rotating mass. Since all the gears are plastic, they do not require lube on the gears. Traxxas Uses lube on their transmission because they have more than one metal gear face. Any time you have two meshing metal faces, you should always use lube but it is not necessary on ours.

You can supplement the stock transmission idler gear for now until a replacement idler gear can be purchased