Still haven't solved the problem as to why my steering won't turn freely, it seems like i have to apply some force by using my hands to get the bell crank to turn from left to right. Any ideas? Should i replace my bell crank?
Still haven't solved the problem as to why my steering won't turn freely, it seems like i have to apply some force by using my hands to get the bell crank to turn from left to right. Any ideas? Should i replace my bell crank?
Im in the same boat as you mine wont turn fully ethier. Today i bought a new bell crank and put it on and i think that its the servos thats the problem .
I just got a new servo, and it's definietly not that, i have no idea what's going on, I just want the wheels to turn freely from left to right. everything else in the truck works fine
To narrow down the issue pull the turnbuckles off the carriers to isolate the issue.
After pulling the turnbuckles do the wheel's turn free?
If yes then your issue lies in the steering bellcranks.
If no then fix the issue at the wheels.
If the wheels turn freely & the steering bellcrank is stiff that's your issue, there are 4 plastic bushings in the steering bellcranks that are the cause of no end of trouble.
You can replace the PB with 4 5x8x2.5mm bearing's, & the best place to get bearings is AvidRC.com.
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Look out for the tree/crunch!
LiPo? Naw NITRO!!
Could the pivot balls have anything to do with it? Like maybe mine are rusted.
What should I loosen?
can you tighten the two red parts you circled? i thought it was just the pillow balls you could only tighten.
well i took the turn buckles off the axle carriers and they move freely. I took the screws that held the bell crank to the chassis moves a little better but not by much. I have to figure out how to mount my new servo saver to the crank.... Oh the joys of being an R/C newb.
If your pivot balls are rusted or really scratched up, or havnt been oiled in a while, they may bind a little. Take em out and either replace them or clean them with WD-40 and a cloth. If theyre rusted, probally replace em.
Then remove all the seals and spray WD in the carrier to clean out that stuff. Then run a paper towel on a pencil or somethin through to clean all the extra wd out and any dirt that didnt get flushed (the paper towl will come out black). Then I rub White lithium grease on the balls, slide em in the carrier and screw in the retainer. There is a sweet spot were the ball spins freely, but does not move in and out. make sure you find this. IF its too tight, ur steering wont work, if its to loose you will have sloppy steering and suspention, and you can run the risk of poping the ball out of the socket, which is a pain to fix at the track or when ur out running
"American Muscle beats import any day of the week"
thanks ill try that
I also recommend to upgrade to the newer E Maxx steering system TRA4945 with integrated servo saver. Much better than the old 3906 system and allows a bigger bearing on one side. Instructions come with the part to mod the 3906.
With one 200oz/in servo installed it turns with ease and is very accurate with no slop.
The 3906 chassis has to be modded but well worth it, IMO.
thats the one I installed LD ill just take it to the hobbyshop and see if they no whats the prob and how to help
If you tried taking the turnbuckles off like Wildman suggested in post #4 you should be able to find out what's binding. My guess is the pillow balls are too tight. They should be snug but allow full turning (with the turnbuckles off) with little or no binding. A little spray lube helps keep things free.
I just cleaned the pillow balls and their holders and im hopen it works i just need a new skid plate.
Everything in the bell crank is fine, i had to losen up those 2 black screws (the one's similar to the shock tower screws). I will take out my pivot balls and check them as well, to see if that helps.
What servos are you guys using?
im using the stock ones in the newest emaxx.
Took off my pivot balls and reinstalled them, seems to be working fine now. Only thing is, the one side turns all the way and the other side turns 50%. and I've adjusted my e-points and trim.
I got a cheapo servo with 15kg-cm of torque.
Last edited by cooleocool; 06-07-2012 at 08:13 PM. Reason: post merge & content edit...don't insert symbols to bypass the filter
Cool!
Now my guess is that you have to center your servo horn. Make sure all your trims (subtrim also if you have it) are set to zero and set the endpoints to 100%. Make sure the servo arm is pointing straight ahead and if it isn't reinstall it so it's straight.
Once it's setup you should have to turn your endpoint down so the tires don't rub the turnbuckles in a full turn. I have mine set to about 90%.
Servo should be fine. I use a ******* 958 with about the same torque.
As you tighten the large hex nut for the pillow balls you'll notice you can turn them till the ball starts binding. Back it off just a bit and move the wheel up and down in a full turn both right and left. If you feel binding back out the big hex screw a little bit more and check it again. What your after is no binding with little or no slop in the axle carrier and pillow ball.
It's really nice to have the shocks off when doing this, makes it easier to feel the binding. Good thing to check on a shock fluid refill.
If those are the 125oz/in servos (X2) they should be fine as long as your not turning huge tires. Have you checked to make sure both are working?
You have the newer E Maxx, right?
Last edited by cooleocool; 06-07-2012 at 08:11 PM. Reason: post merge
yes I do the new brushed one.
one last question. when i have my truck on the ground not moving and i go to turn my wheels left and right, it seems sluggish but when i lift the front wheels off the ground it moves left to right freely. Is that normal?
will post vid later
Last edited by cooleocool; 06-07-2012 at 08:10 PM. Reason: post merge
i have about 223oz-in of torque. my tmaxx has 277oz-in
Do you trucks have the newer style servo saver or are you still using the older on servo servo saver?
Look out for the tree/crunch!
LiPo? Naw NITRO!!
Thats because the stock spring in the bell cranks is weak, not much you can do except try to find a stiffer spring or do a dual bell-crank mod.
BTW, Kimbrough Large truck servo savers are much better than the bell crankes
"American Muscle beats import any day of the week"
223oz/in should be fine unless you running huge tires and/or the truck is very heavy. I have a 200oz/in and 3.2" wheels and it turns from stop to stop on almost any surface. If you can't get it to hit both stops on concrete somethings not right. If it struggles on thick carpet then that's normal.