It seems like there is not a definitive thread covering the CastleLink and how to program it. To make it easy for you guys I decided to put a comprehensive thread together explaining on how this system works. This is a result of A LOT of searching and reading through many many many threads. By profession, I own a race shop and dyno tune many race vehicles with stand alone engine management systems... so this programming is right up my alley.
I am not a professional at tuning the CastleLink settings but hopefully we can all share our results/settings with each other which can help us fine tune the X01 better.
Can you program the ESC via the Traxxas Link App/tQi?
No. They are completely different. However, the Traxxas Funny Car (Drag Car) allows for complete tunability of both motor and ESC via the Traxxas Link App. When the xo1 first came out the CastleLink was not originally supported. Thankfully it is now. It's too bad that Traxxas didn't set the XO1 up as they did with the Funny Car.
Purchase the Castle Field Link Controller: - Roughly $25-30 bucks at your LHS.
This unit is nice to have in the field to make quick adjustments without the ned of a PC/Laptop. This card allows you to manipulate the following parameters: CutOff Voltage, Auto-Lipo Cutoff Volts/Cell, Drag Brake, Brake Strength, Punch Control, Reverse Type, Motor Type, & Motor Timing (Cheat).
Download the software here:
Fill out the form, download the software, install software, and update your Castle Field Link controller when it is hooked up to the ESC. If you do not update the software chances are all of the lights on the Field Link Controller will blink.
How to hook up:
Remove the receiver cover. Unplug Channel 2 (Throttle Input). Hook the plug that was in the receiver now to the Field Link programmer (color coded). Hook the micro USB plug into the Field Link then the other end into your computer. Your batteries must be hooked up. Once everything is hooked up, power on the ESC (switch). Open the CastleLink software and it should automatically connect.
Below are screen shots showing the programming options available via the software. I have made a few changes to some of the settings as well as brake curve. Don't flip out if you notice your stock settings are different than the screen shots below. Clicking the ? beside the options will give you a brief explanation of what each option is for.
When everything is hooked up, the lights should both be green on the lower left hand corner as shown in the Connection Status area.
Pretty self explanatory here. Basic settings.
If you don't like the lag off the line... modify your punch control. 0% is factory settings and the punch is limited by the voltage supplied from the battery. Testing the punch control at 80% turns the car into a completely different monster. The throttle lag is gone and you've got instant power. Keep in mind, the higher the punch control settings the more wheel spin you will instantly get.
Torque Limiting Settings
I would not recommend modifying the timing. The more timing that you run the hotter the engine will run. It will help generate power... but it seems as if we've got enough problems dealing with the power we currently have. If you wish to run a different transmitter, you can disable the LIVE LINK ENABLE option which will allow you to bind the ESC to another unit.
XY Chart for the Throttle trigger %.
XY Chart for brake curve. I modified mine in order to get a little better reaction with the brakes.
Nice option here. Always save your original settings first before making any changes. It also allows you to print out a sheet with all of your settings which is a bonus.
Once you have everything ready to upload, simply click UPDATE in the lower right hand corner in the SETTINGS CONTROL box.
I will be editing this thread as more information is shared. I stay very busy at the shop so I will try to update this with more information as time permits. I wanted to at least get this started.