Pave's ERBE GT Build

[pavmentsurfer]

Not a new idea... my inspiration came from Cameron... his car looks so sweet I figured maybe this is a way I can get rid of my Ultra GTP2E and keep it all in the traxxas family.

I bought stickychinsack's summit as a start platform. Not ideal as it will need diffs and bulkheads but the deal was too good to pass up. Ill sell off all the stuff I don't need from that truck.

Then, I bought the following from Tower and Amain:
-Full set of Slayer (not pro) arms
-Full set of Slayer (not pro) pushrods and toe links
-Ultra GTP2 Bumper and mount
-GH Racing single steering arm
-Kyosho McLaren GTR body for the GT2 (though it would be different than the Corvette)
-Tekno Sway bars
-Integy 6mm offset 17mm adapters

I have a couple sets of sweep racing wheels/tires and a full set of electronics including an XErun 150 amp ESC and 2050 KV Sensored motor along with a Hitec 7955 servo to go in it.

So, theres the plan as it sits so far. I still need the ERBE diffs and bulkheads, if anyone has any they want to part with, LMK. Ill use stock ERBE drive shafts and cut them to an appropriate length when I get the arms in. Everything else will remain stock.

Ill make sure i update with lots of pics as stuff comes in. It may be a while as I JUST ordered all this stuff today. Now I gotta sell the GTP2E before the wife freaks out. Hehe.

[Jakey]

Now I gotta sell the GTP2E before the wife freaks out. Hehe.

I suggest you take your wife to the scrapbook store.

Janice

[pavmentsurfer]

Haha... no kidding. So far, she doesnt "know" about this truck. But she'll find out soon enough.

[bazookamaxx]

Don't want to get you put in the dog house, but you should (don't have to) buy a high speed servo. I put the savox 1258tg in mine (dm-1) .08 at 6v. $69 @amain.

[pavmentsurfer]

I have a 1258 in my Ultra GTP2... but ill be using the Hitec 7955 which is stronger (more than twice) and quite fast. That should take care of anything I need for steering.

[bazookamaxx]

7955 is .15 @ 6v

[pavmentsurfer]

Yup, and thats ALOT faster than the stock servos (though the specs say the stockers are faster, I don't believe they are).

[Cameron]

Take your time lining up the Ofna bumper if you are going to mount it like how i did mine. I already cracked my bulkhead once and i didn't impact anything hard at all. one of the screws just wasn't quite straight, not to mention as you can see in the pics the bumper is crooked ever so much its tilted just a tad towards the driver side of the car. Put a decent crack up along the RHS front screw.
I think it might have even been when i hit the fridge...

I'm still trying to come up with a better option to mount it. Nothing so far without adding more material to the picture. i think lined up correctly and straight it should probably hold, heck its got 6 screws holding it on there lol.

[bentrocker]

That 7955 will be faster again if you run it on 7v.

[pavmentsurfer]

Just ordered my diffs and bulkheads... so Ive now ordered all the parts i think I'm going to need to build this baby once the truck comes in.

I also just finished up a new body for my GTP2E so I can get it sold and keep the wife from freaking out. Hehe.

[MfizzleS62]

subscribed... I like how you got the Mclaren body I have the real kyosho car since it first came out then converted to electric a few years ago... way before the X01 which btw I just got my hands on one...

[bajaboy501]

Looking forward to this build from an awesome guy, I dont have any suggestions but i will stick along for the ride lol. Just buy the wife something pretty and she wont put you in the dog house

[brailman133]

Waiting on the build

[pavmentsurfer]

I paid for the truck yesterday and was told by stickychinsack that it will ship on tuesday after your holiday weekend. I think I now have all the bits and pieces ordered and paid for. So its just the usual waiting game as they slowly make their way into canada. Ill keep everyone posted as things come in.

[pavmentsurfer]

No parts or truck yet so no actual updates. But I just wanted to post a piece of interesting info.

I looked on the Kyosho website at the specs for the GT2 and it lists a wheelbase of 360mm
The traxxas website lists the wheelbase for the ERBE at 358mm. I don't know how much of an effect the slayer arms have on the wheel base when used on an ERBE chassis but I would say this is why the GT2 bodies fit so well on the ERBE GT conversions.

Just thought that info was interesting. Heres a pic of the body style ill be running:


I have this one on back order... its the one I like the best but I aint paying $120 shipped from e-bay so ill have to wait till amain has them back in stock.

[Cameron]

That F1 will work awesome, start with locating the front body posts with the front tires centered in the hole before you even look at the rear tire holes. The F1 is flat enough out back you have some play room to move the actual wheel opening a bit without it looking out of sorts and you can keep the holes tight.

Using the Audi R8 body you will run into quite the rub if you try to slam the body down because of how they radius the fenders.

I just about bought the Audi instead of the Vette for mine, but wanted the body as low as i could get. And couldn't find the Mclaren in stock anywhere at the time. So i went with the Corvette.

If i wasn't forcing my self to stop for a while with the bodies i would be hunting out a deal on the F1 body too. But i have 3 shells already got my build. That's enough lol

Hehe just make sure you get the right Maclaren F1 body... this one dont fit lol

[pavmentsurfer]

Got a few items in the mail today for this build. Most notably the body... its BIG... I'm really not overly keen on the design. I really wish id gone with the Audi but I guess it will do for now.

The ERBE diffs and bulkheads arrived as well. Still waiting on an order from tower with my arms and other bits and pieces and the actual truck itself from stickchinsack. It should be in mid next week... ill get it all torn down and start the chassis rebuild while I wait for the arms...

I also got the gears to convert the summit transmission back to a single speed. Like I said, not too exciting but parts are parts. Amain sure does ship fast.

[AbSoLooT1]

Nice pave. Il be watching. Got the Castle BL system for the ERBE in the mail today. thinkin one day il have to build up and EREVO. Cool idea on these conversions.

[pavmentsurfer]

Finally have some actual updates on the project. Truck came in yesterday and I wasted no time in tearing it down. Here are some pics:

The truck as it was delivered... bought it from stickychinsack and it was better than expected. Nearly brand new condition:


This is about as far from a GT Car that you can get. Which is why I think this conversion will be so fun... the end result will be ALOT different than the original.

The first step was to de-summit the truck. So the wheels/tires, bumpers/mounts, body mounts, all electronics (and I do mean ALL) and all wiring needed to come off:


Thats as far as I got last night in the midst of cleaning the house. But ill hopefully get a little further tonight. Next step, bulkheads, diffs, arms and trans all come out. Single speed gears go into trans, ERBE diffs and bulks go in and then I wait for the rest of the parts. hehe.

[brailman133]

Anything new?

[pavmentsurfer]

i got the rear end re-build with the ERBE bulks and diff, I got the 2 speed swapped to single speed gears and I got all the arms off. Still need to pull all the shocks and lower them somehow. But I'm thinking it will be best to do that after I get the arms on so i can see how much of an effect the lowering has.

Finally got my orders from tower so I THINK I have everything I need now. Im going to try to spend a bit of time tonight putting the arms on and getting the majority of it setup. I know I'm short 2 ERBE shafts to shorten so i wont be able to get it running... but if I can just get it setup and mock up the body, mounts and get it painted in the next week or so ill feel good about it.

[Cameron]

"lowering" the shocks is just adding travel limiters to the inside between the piston and the base of the shock.
On mine i am running the blue bumper from the outside of the shock (you wont need it on the GT, well at least you shouldn't lol) and 2 of the revo push-rod spacers. Drop it back in the GTR shock body and reassemble and it will stop the shock from rebounding back out and effectively lower the stance.



** might be worth looking into, did traxxas use limiters in the Xo-1 shocks? I know they use limiters in the 1/16 rally shocks and sell a limiting kit. Might be something available for the GTR shocks now as well. But this method works just fine for me.

My first attempt at limiting was with fuel tubing but after about 10-15 minutes of running i noticed the ride height was all wonky, pulled the shocks to inspect and in 3 of the 4 shocks the fuel tubing had split inside the shocks and curled over on itself. So the hunt was on for a more solid form of limiting.

[pavmentsurfer]

This is how I've always done it as well... I'm just not sure exactly how low I want to go. I always do 2 or 3 tests before i fill with oil to make sure the ride height is good.

Ive got some really thick silicone tubing I'm going to try... I know these shocks are under alot more stress inside than a typical 1/10 shock and will split typical fuel tubing if its used as the limiter... but this stuff I have should old up fine.

[pavmentsurfer]

Made some good progress today thanks to a package in the mail from Tower yesterday. Included most of the suspension parts I needed and a few other goodies.

I swapped out the front diff and bulkheads, installed all the arms and pushrods/links. Got all 4 carriers installed. Installed my GHracing aluminum single steering arms, finished up the underside with the driveshafts and skid plates. Thats about it for today. But i realized I missed buying a new set of rockers. Im not sure what the slayer uses or what SHOULD be used on this car. Maybe cameron can chime in and let me know what you used. I only have LT's where are WAY too long (obviously). So I just need to know if I should use P2 or P3's.



Mocked it up with the body just sitting on it. Looks like the wheelbase will be nearly perfect.

[Cameron]

I have P2 on mine currently. Haven't tried the P3. Would tend to think the P3 might even suck it down a tad more. But I'm happy with the ride height right now.

I like the look of that F1 body

It is great that the wheelbase on the Kyosho GT2 cars is almost perfect. I think on paper they are off by only 5mm.

I wish Kyosho made a truck body lol. The SC8 worked for me but you can tell in so many ways it doesn't belong on a road car.

[brailman133]

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[pavmentsurfer]

Long time since an update. Ive been busy, had some strange medical stuff going on and work... but really, no excuses.

I finally ordered the P2 rockers I need so those are on the way. My 2nd set of driveshafts should be in any day now so I can get them all cut and setup. BUT... It turns out I ordered the wrong set of +6 offset 17mm adapters. I ordered the set for a slash, not an ERBE so I've been trying to find the proper set and they seem to be out of stock everywhere. I found that a canadian online site says they are available for special order so I ordered a set. Not sure how long they'll take but ill set the car up with the stock 17mm adapters until they arrive.

Once the shafts arrive ill get the car setup more and get some more pics. Once I get the wheels on I can cut out the wheels openings in the body and get it painted.

[brailman133]

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[pavmentsurfer]

Yet another long wait for an update but I havent forgotten about this project. Just waiting for parts really.

I finally found some 17mm adapters that gave me some extra width. They are Hot Racing and add +3 to each side. With the body untrimmed they have the tires fitting just inside the lexan. Which is fine. I still have the integy +6 adapters on order but they may not be necessary.

As for updates I've accomplished the following:
-Installed P2 rockers
-Cut and installed driveshafts
-Installed Hot Racing +3mm 17mm adapters
-Installed wheels
-Lowered and installed shocks
-Cut front body mount down
-Installed servo and linkages
-Installed motor for weight/sag testing

The rear body mounting is going to be easy using just some stock posts cut really low. The front is going to be a bit more difficult as the proper height is literally RIGHT on top of the rockers. I cut the stock mounts right off and shaved things down as low as it can go. I have some aluminum I can use to rig something up. Shouldn't be too hard but it will require the largest amount of custom work so far.

Only other issue at the moment is the springs are way too stiff for this setup. They are blue and silver (can't remember which is on what end) and the car doesnt really sag at all and the suspension barely moves. Im thinking ill either cut a coil off or try to find some softer springs. Not exactly sure yet and this setup will work until I find an alternative.

here are the most recent pics. No bumper setup yet. Still sorting out how that will work. I REALLY want the Audi body. i think it would fit much much better around the front of the car. Its still on backorder though... and I'm not paying $80 for one on ebay.

[Ghostbuster]

Looks awesome! Keep up the good work!

[pavmentsurfer]

I think I'm going to call this one the Revo RR... for Road Racer. Im going to see if I can try to make some custom decals.

[pavmentsurfer]

Got alot further with this today. After looking at it, and realizing that I had wanted to use an Ofna Ultra GTP2 bumper anyway, I decided the best way to do the front body mounts was off the bumper. But, I had to figure out how to mount the bumper itself. So, I started by grinding it to fit between the arms, then sorting out where the mounts would be. The rear is mounted through the 2 holes for the rear half of the front skid plate (the part that hold the steering bell crank down). I used spacers much like T-Bone does with their skid plates.



Then for the front I made some longer spacers and drilled holes in the very inner corners of the front stock skid plate. Put the screws up through the bottom of the ofna bumper and attached the front with nuts from the top. The hardest part was getting the spacers just right so the bumper is level with the ground. But I got it and its very sold like this.




Once that was done, I used an old set of vertical body mount posts I had laying around and put them on the front bumper just as you would with the ofna... there are holes already drilled and they line up with holes pre-formed in the foam bumper. A little notch for the actual E-Revo front bumper to fit and it went together like butter.


For the rear, I simply had to cut down a stock mount, get the heigh correct and drill some new holes for the pins to go through. No issue there. My only concern in the rear is that the mounts may not be wide enough to support such a wide body. But time will tell.


Here are some pics of it all mounted up. Im happy with how the wheels centred in the openings. They are just a bit too far forward up front, but fit perfect in the rear. I think ill line the next body up the opposite way, with the front perfect and the rear just a bit farther back. But this works and will look better once the paint is on.




At this point the only thing I'm not happy with is the fender gaps. They are too big for my liking. But, because the springs are still too stiff there is NO sag and I mounted the body a bit higher anticipating a bit of sag once I get the springs sorted out. So, that should take care of the fender gaps and get the car sitting much lower. Thats the next project.

[Cameron]

Looking amazing Pave i see you did what i should have done and spaced the front of the bumper to keep it level,

I found with mine after giving up on the excessive fender gaps that you are really stuck with it short of accommodating it to begin with and making the fender holes lower when you cut them out, but on the majority of bodies in this scale its just gonna look weird, if you cut the wheel hole lower than intended.

The big flaw if you will on the ERBE chassis for an onroad build is the front bulkhead and how much lower it is from the rest of the chassis. You just cant get it as low as you want, i have tried. Now add the extra 1/4" of the ofna bumper mount as well. and its just recipe for fender gap lol.

Answering to the springs issue, it is tough. As soon as you add the travel limiting even the softest slayer springs are still gonna be bound right up. The silver/Blue E-revo option springs are what i currently have on mine and although I'm not trying to handle this thing like i am racing it they do the trick but im also running 25wt oil. The car will bottom out front and rear, but will always still rebound to max ride height.

[pavmentsurfer]

I was thinking about cutting them... I wonder how that would change the rate. I think I'm going to try one coil and see how that effects things.

Thanks for the compliments man, its your car I'm copying. Hehe. I think if I had of lined up the front wheels better and adjusted the rear cut outs accordingly it would have ended up looking more correct. Ill know better for the next body... the Audi, whenever its available again. Maybe even a corvette if the audi is taking too long.

[Cameron]

i installed some brown (tan?) springs from the slayer at one point. gave it a little bit of sag but resulted in a lot of bottoming out.

Don't forget the 2 screws that used to hold the front tower in place. They hold the bulkhead to the chassis as well. I missed them the first time thinking they didn't do anything now.

Maybe its just the pic angles but you look to be sitting pretty high still...




How much limiting did you end up running?

This is my current ride height with the corvette. The SC8 sits just a tad lower on the front bumper.

[pavmentsurfer]

I only used the blue rubber bumper from the outside of the shock shaft on the inside... its not really THAT much lower. I was HOPING the sag would make up for some of it.

I actually havent fully finished with the front tower yet... hehe... thats why the screws are still missing. Ive mad that mistake on my ERBE and had some "Problems" so I wont ever forget it again. Thanks though.

[Cameron]

Lightest spring you can find to get some sagging going on, the downside is if it is TOO soft you loose grip in the corners, as the weight transfer flops from side to side. Im wondering if vertical shocks can be done on the ERBE chassis...
Would definitely open up the window to better adjustment availability.

[momort]

those cars look nice guys i wish they made more 1/8 scale car bodies like mustangs and camero,s you guys should post a build thread with step by step instruction

[Cameron]

Here is my thread, found it buried away on page 11 of the forum haha. Should really update a bit more lol

http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...uild-continued.

[pavmentsurfer]

OK, here we go again after another long pause. Ive been away on business nearly every week and spending the rest of the time with the family so the RC's have been a bit neglected. But I got some time this afternoon to finish up this chassis. Im VERY happy with how it looks. no word on how it drives yet, but the batteries are charging and I should be able to take it out, without a body, this afternoon for a rip.

What I have done since the last update:
-Installed ESC: I used the stock traxxas MMM ESC mount on my XErun ESC to hold it down. It required both the ESC fan shroud and the MMM mount bracket to be slightly modified but It fits tight and allows for easy removal. Which is what I wanted.
-Installed motor: This is a 2050KV XErun sensored motor. Same size as the MMM motor. Its currently geared 22/54. Pretty high but shouldnt be a problem with these wheels
-Installed my Integy +6mm hubs: They finally came in. So I put them on and they are the perfect width. The wheels are still under the body with no rubbing but look more correct than the +3mm hot racing adapters I was using before.
-Cut the springs: I decided that before I lower the shocks any more or start to worry about the lack of suspension sag, I should at least TRY cutting the springs to see what effect it has. I started by putting the whole car together and installed the batteries. Then took the front shocks off and cut one coil off. The result was perfect. The suspension sags about %50 into its travel and the resulting drop puts the chassis at the perfect height from the ground. I then did the same to the rear. One coil cut off and in this case the result was just a hair too much sag so I spun up the adjusters a tiny bit and that fixed it. Now both the front and rear are sitting perfect and when the body is installed the wheel gaps are nearly perfect. Thats alot of perfects for just one modification.
-Lastly, I installed my radio and got everything hooked up and centred to be ready to run it later on. No surprises here. I mounted the ESC on/off switch to the front of the ESC with 3M... routed the sensor wire along the motor wires to keep it clean (not totally happy with this setup though) and bolted everything down. last step will be to take it out and run it.

Now, all thats left is to paint the body and wing and ill be all done. Im going with a solid white with just a few small black accents. Simple and clean. Hopefully, if the car runs good this afternoon, ill get to painting the body tonight.

Now on to the pics: