Revo metal driveshaft problems. And i stripped a spur gear!

[skyline6]

Hey guys,
Im new to the nitro scene but having fun with my Revo 3.3 and Jato 3.3 down here in Australia.
Ive just installed the Traxxas CVD metal driveshafts on my revo and one immediately popped out and ruined the dust boot. I should have read the instructions that said i cant use the outer pushrod location with these shafts, but my question is; can i get the Traxxas extended inner drive cup set TRA5153R for use with these shafts on the highest ride height setting without using the extended wheelbase suspension arms? I want to retain my RPM suspension arms but also use the highest suspension setting with the CVD's.

One more thing, i stripped a spur gear almost immediately after installing the metal drive shafts. Do these shafts place more stress on the driveline? Are there any ways around stripping gears with these shafts. I mean, if i get a metal spur gear, will i just strip gearbox components with these shafts?

Thanks for any help,

Shaun.

[jordankeis]

well dont go mettle spur gear unless u wanna upgrade all ur gears and drive shafts and wat ever els .... i didnt have spur gear issue with my metal drive shafts but i did hvae the same problem with them falling out on max hight and i was told to get the inner drive cups that u have posted .... i have not tryd them yet after i tore 2 boots and brook 2 drive shafts and one inner drive cup i fell iv stuck plenty of money into them stupid things and dont feel like putting more into them lol kinda just went back to plastic shafts i really never had a problem with them so ig why change lol iv only brook 1 plastic drive shaft and im pretty hard on my truck only reason i brook the one is i ran head on into a street light lol opps.... but i bash pretty hard got big dirt piles all in my back yard the jumps are 4 feet to 5 feet tall and i hit them things full speed get bout 6 to 7 feet in the air land and never brook a shaft doing that so ig i cant complain with the plastic

[skyline6]

Yeah mate, im wondering if i should have gone the metal shafts too, as the plastic ones never gave me a problem. They just looked so good!
Anyway, has anyone actually used the extended inner cups with the standard suspension arms without a problem? I dont wanna buy them if they wont work.....
Cheers guys,

Shaun.

[razzgold]

I have that same issue with the CVD shafts. I am going to try the 5153r today.
If you read the paper that comes with the CVDs there are a few tips there

[jordankeis]

i read in a few forms that are on here that ppl have used them and they are ok but im not sure if they are riding on max ... or not sure if they are using long travle or not... i got rpm arms and true track in back and on my truck and no matter where i had it they fell out soo ya idk give this form cupple days see what ppl say

[razzgold]

You can make the truck lower by putting the rods in the hole closer to the wheels.
I have RPM arms as well and with the extended caps look like its a better fit.

[zdragon71]

You may can save your spurs by loosening your slipper clutch a tad to allow the clutch to slipp more when taking off and shifting. May not be as wheelie prone but will keep you from replacing spur gears all the time. I run mine just tight enough to where I
Can barley turn the spur by hand while I have a 2mm hex locking the slipper in place.

[skyline6]

In regards to the CVD's, i realised that i hadnt screwed the pivot balls in the axle carriers all the way into the suspension arms. Once i fixed this the drive shafts were located more positively in the drive cups. Theyre still dodgy with the standard drive cups though, and thats on the middle ride height hole too. Ill go the extended and see how they go with RPM arms.

Also, after changing the spur gear the car is going ok, but ive noticed that the air filter is much more difficult to get on the carb due to clearance issues, and the engine appears to be at more of an angle. The gear mesh is spot on i reckon, but the engine is angled more than before and i was just wondering if there is any adjustment other than the two horizontal bolts that rotate the engine up and down on the mount.

Cheers,

Shaun.

[jordankeis]

yup did same things with pivot balls my first time i brook one lol second time i put them in as far as i could and even on middle setting they came out let me know how the extended cups work if they do im jumping on that ill have to buy new shaft but i just set them off to the side for now didnt wanna put any more money into them lol

[razzgold]

The extended cups worked for me. No more shafts coming out after a few jumps.

I thought about tightening the pivot balls but my alignment is great I didn't want to mess it up.

[Instrument_Guy]

Just had the same problem tonite; i'm running rpm a-arms up front and the rpm tru-tracks out back. Popped the front right axle out of the bulkhead side drive cup twice; tightened up the pillow-balls into the a-arm see if this helps. did the same thing on the right rear axle; replaced the rear cvds with the stock driveshafts. looks like the extended drive cups are necessary when running rpm arms.

[razzgold]

Yup sounds familiar. Please let us know if the extended caps work for you as well

[Instrument_Guy]

small update; looks like the CVD's will work with front RPM a-arms and axle carriers; tightening the pillowballs into a-arms until they are pretty much bottomed out is necessary. Ran through about 5 tanks of fuel tonite, lots of jumps and cart wheels and the cvd's didn't pop out!

[Jake C6R]

You should not have to bottom out the pillowballs to keep the CVD's from popping out, because then you can't get the proper camber adjustment. The extended drive cups work with the CVD/RPM front/True Track rear combo - when the suspension is set up correctly they neither pop out nor bottom out in the cups when fully compressed.