That's great news. Puts them more in-line with the superior design of Teknos. Hopefully they change all of their products to a similar style because I need some for a different vehicle.
So instead of the pin that holds the wheel hex on it has a different setup? It appears that the wheel hex fits on the shaft held in place by the narrowing on the axle. Thus getting rid of the hole that creates the weak spot on the axle.
Last edited by El Sob; 05-16-2012 at 12:56 AM.
Slash 4x4 SCT 2400
Slash Ultimate MMP 2400
Nice mod. They must have checked the FLM ones. That was one of the reasons for me to order an FLM set for the front end.
Nobody is born with experience.
its about time. the main reason why I went with tekno's. Pin fly's out and causes all kinds of issues.
So far i like everything about the new axle.What i do not like is the 2 set screws that go in the drive hub.I replaced them with HPI pins # 86094,perfect fit.I never broke one in my savage.
Matt @ MIP said part # was the same 10133 front,10131 rear for the pede 4x4
Bruggar,the only difference i could see is the flats (keys) cut on the axle and the hex is keyed also.It's i direct replacement
So these kits come with hexes, so if I had the hexes with the set screw I would have the new design, correct?
so how do they work?
I meant do they hold, and work good, any issues so far?
15 runs and no issues yet.The 12mm hex fits tight.Don't crank down on the small set screw in the hex.It would be tough getting it out if it gets stuck.It is only there to hold in place when wheels are removed.The keyed portion on the hex and axle are a perfect fit.I did use a traxxas teflon washer on the axle first,before putting it in the carrier.this keeps the female bone away from the carrier so it does not rub on it.Everything is hardened,even the bearing spacer.I give them a 10 so far.
Maybe one small issue.I had just bought nice blue anodized aluminum hexes that i can't use.I guess i will have to go buy another brushless car so i can make use of them,lol.
The hex is leaving a small dimple in my wheel.I think i want to go back to the original hexes and pins.The new hex is not really a hex.The corners are rounded off and that is what is causing the pressure point in my wheel and making a dimple in the plastic.MIP claimed they are far superior to the basic hex.Yeah they are hardened and strong,but they are marring my wheels.I ran about 20 packs and took my wheels off and just noticed it.
Not impressed , have several issues with them, the original were flawless.
- one issue is the hex being rounded I wrecked 3 new rims before modifing a stk allum hex to work
- another is the hex WILL slide on the axle when wheel nut is tightened, but this squishes the inner brg races together and the supplied spacers were not wide enough and caused the brgs to fail , I added washers to sides.
Best way to know if its all going to work is assemble the axle, hub, brgs etc off the truck, and with the axle nut tighted tight the axle, wheel should spin very free around the hub, when its not right it binds....................
MMM/2650, E-maxx Body=FUN !
3 Slash 4x4
I have run my new pinless stubs a few times, and I haven't noticed any issues, but I haven't taken my wheels off yet either. My problem installing was that the grub screw in the hex, is not 1.5 mm. I realized this after I had red loctite on it and semi tight. It stripped, and now its permanently slack. the wheel nut holds it all together ok, so far, but getting it put together with the axle sliding back and forth is a pain.
How do i find out about this recall?
[QUOTE=Spillproof;5191824]I have run my new pinless stubs a few times, and I haven't noticed any issues, but I haven't taken my wheels off yet either. My problem installing was that the grub screw in the hex, is not 1.5 mm. I realized this after I had red loctite on it and semi tight. It stripped, and now its permanently slack. the wheel nut holds it all together ok, so far, but getting it put together with the axle sliding back and forth is a pain.
That set screw got me too.I used some heat and luckily i got it out by tilting my wrench a little.I now think there are too many issues with these.Give me the pinned version bacl.I'll be very happy with those
Well i just got off the phone with Matt @ MIP.He said they recalled all these hexes.They will be getting rid of the rounded corners on the hex and it should be a true hexagon when they are done.I am waiting on a full set fr & r which should be about 1 - 2 weeks from now.The set screw will remain the same 1/16.
Mine are installed... and the hex is permanently threadlocked. Hope thats not an issue. The come off easy enough, because i never got them tight enough.
But you can get the new ones from MIP for FREE if you send pics to Matt.Just put a torch to the loctite and get them off.Those rounded corners were putting dimples in my wheels.
Pretty amazing how much they slipped:
Made them shiny where they contacted the wheel:
Anyone have a problem with them destroying bearings? I used the spacers, but 3/4 of my rear bearings are now destroyed.
I have not checked my bearings yet,but i will soon.That's too bad about the wheels.exactly what i was afraid of. Email a pic to email@example.com.
Last edited by ksb51rl; 06-07-2012 at 09:45 PM.
I did earlier, and he got back to me very fast. The rims look ok, the hexes are rounded so bad, that they didn't appear to damage the rims. With a proper shaped hex, they should be fine. If not, i will just toss them on the front, where there is no real torque
Brg issue YUP , what it is is the crush collar is NOT wide enough on some cases and when you tighten the axle nut up it tightens everything together and crusshes the small brg race together.
I used traxxas # 1985 washers, there found behind the stk hex, used 2 on each wheel to get proper crush and no binding, basicly removed hub did an assembly of everything and added washers between with mip crush collar until axle spun freely when wheel was tightened down, then dissasemble and reinstall on truck.
seems to work fine, also contacted matt about this and wainint for updated hexes, only sad thing is the 3 wheels that were damaged
MMM/2650, E-maxx Body=FUN !
3 Slash 4x4
My MIP rears eat bearings like nobody's business. I think I am somewhere around the 10th replacement in the rears. I tried it using the teflon washers, just like the stock axles, but it is nearly impossible to put the pin through the end of the axle for the wheel hex. Everything is so tight when using the washers. So I am running it now without the teflon washers to see how it does. If it eats more bearings, bye bye MIP's.
Last edited by tackett834; 06-12-2012 at 04:24 PM.