+ Reply to Thread
Results 1 to 27 of 27
  1. #1
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Portugal
    Posts
    89

    Changing driveshafts to steel ones

    Hi guys im going to change the stock driveshafts to the steel ones the stock ones are always braking.
    What i would like to know is where is going to be transfered the weakpoint and if i need to upgrade anything else ????



  2. #2
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    133
    I am running traxxas steel CVDs and didn't change anything else. No problems.

  3. #3
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Charleston SC
    Posts
    348
    I've got a problem with them popping out on occasion. Usually when the car flips. I have heard the RPM arms solve this issue though.

  4. #4
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    America
    Posts
    616
    make sure you get the extended rear cups they help a lot..
    V Twin Emaxx
    inferno gt2 aka XO1 Destroyer

  5. #5
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    495
    if i were you i would use the ones out of a summit or mips.those are not ment for the erevo with the mamba monster.i had them and the center drive shafts and i have replaced them all now

  6. #6
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    355
    The driveshafts are still the weakpoint.
    Get the summit shafts. They are as strong, cheaper, wont bend and there is no issues them them popping out.
    Your next weakest link is the ring/pinion gear.

  7. #7
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Charleston SC
    Posts
    348
    I have broken 2 of the ends off the dogbones so far. It was an easy fix though as I simply just pressed in a new pin and cut to the proper length. I have also had issues with them bending... which does not help matters. I can usually bend them back pretty straight but they are never 100% true in my opinion. I'm assuming these 2 issues only happen when the CVD's pop out and go unnoticed when running.

    Have you guys actually compared the Traxxas Steel driveshafts to the Summit ones? I'm really sick of the CVD's popping out but before I convert anything I'm going to try the extended cups (Traxxas 5153r). Are there any problems with running these (5153r) without the extended wheelbase suspension arms (#5333R)? I've read mixed reviews about running them with the stock a-arms: http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...ner-cups-5153R
    Last edited by AnthonyV; 05-14-2012 at 09:05 PM.

  8. #8
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Portugal
    Posts
    89
    I have robinson pinion and spur

  9. #9
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    W Monroe, Louisiana
    Posts
    1,965
    Quote Originally Posted by freddy_ventura View Post
    I have robinson pinion and spur
    I think chapinb meant your differential pinion and ring gear.
    Its All relative to your perspective.

  10. #10
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Western Kentucky
    Posts
    782
    I swapped a guys stock one out this weekend for the traxxas steel ones above in the pic...two laps around the track the front kept popping out so we dropped his suspension still no luck.He ended up breaking the pins on the end of the dog bone. I had a set of the summit axles spare we swapped to them ended up abusing truck rest of the day with no trouble
    ERBE,Losi 8ight,Slash 4X4

  11. #11
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Charleston SC
    Posts
    348
    As I mentioned, I've broken 2 pins sofar off the end of the dog bone. I ended up using the suspension pins (Traxxas 5321) to replace the broken ones. They are .010" larger in diameter. They will go into the stock pin bore with no problem though if you add a bit of PB blaster/WD 40. I use a vice then just hammer the rest in then cut to proper length. Now you will notice they will not fit into the cups. You have 2 options, you can use a dremel to remove a bit of the diameter of the pin or you can simply remove .005" from both slots on the cups. This gives you a larger diameter pin so they have a bit more strength to help against them shearing off.

    I am honestly considering swapping to the summit axles though... I do not like the fact that the steel axles are a bit bent which is not good for the differentials and other rotating assembly components. Especially when going 60+mph. Do you think you'll see any kind of top speed difference between the steel driveshafts compared to the summits?

    Would these be all I need to convert?
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-NEW-5607-T...item1c25ee7824

    I noticed that you need 2) 5656, 4)5654, and 4)5653 to convert. It looks like the link above has everything...

    What kind of problems have you guys had with Summit axles? I'm sure they can't be 100% perfect...
    Last edited by AnthonyV; 05-15-2012 at 09:43 AM.

  12. #12
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    495
    summit or MIP axles are the way to go i.ve have used all and those are the best

  13. #13
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    355
    The summit axles do have a few (minor) problems.
    The pins do come out on a rare occasion if not checked. Just takes either a dab of locktite or some shrink wrap around the outside and they stay fine.
    As the shafts wear, the pins make an oval shape in the plastic, this will eventually break loose. You usually can see when its coming though.

    While the shafts are slightly more than stock, they are well worth it. They are also easily rebuildable without any e-clips!

  14. #14
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    69
    I bought my car used with Summit axles on the front. Rear axles are stock and look like they are starting to wear and may need to be replaced in a little while.

    I've read that the summit axles have two different lengths and we need to go with the shorter ones. Assuming that I would also need the shorter axels for the rear of the e-revo, is it possible to buy only two axles and how would I know if I'm getting the correct length axles?

    Thanks for any help!
    Mark

  15. #15
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Turks and Caicos Islands, BWI
    Posts
    551
    Once you swapp out to the steel drive shafts, your new weak points are your differentials - and thats not a guess. After I kept busting diffs on steel drive shafts I went Summit axels and I have not replaced um since even though I have a backup set of 4 just in case.

    DONT USE UM FOR BASHING. I only use steel drive shafts for speed runs in my Streeter with slipper set to what i like to call ultimate sweet spot.
    Ray00
    E–Revo │ E-Revo BE
    ITCHY THROTTLE FINGER!

  16. #16
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    69
    Aren't the summit axles different lengths? Which sizes do you use for the E-Revo? Do we use the shorter ones all the way around?

  17. #17
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    104
    Quote Originally Posted by AnthonyV View Post
    I've got a problem with them popping out on occasion. Usually when the car flips. I have heard the RPM arms solve this issue though.
    mip makes a steel shaft with a slip and spline vs. the dogbone style . MIP 08135 check it out !
    Last edited by randy0050; 05-23-2012 at 09:48 AM.

  18. #18
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Turks and Caicos Islands, BWI
    Posts
    551
    Quote Originally Posted by Mark94 View Post
    Aren't the summit axles different lengths? Which sizes do you use for the E-Revo? Do we use the shorter ones all the way around?
    No you use the long ones all the way around! With the short ones you have to stretch the boots!
    Ray00
    E–Revo │ E-Revo BE
    ITCHY THROTTLE FINGER!

  19. #19
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    826
    The summit has a short axle due to the diff locks, so there is a short one in the front and rear.

    You can run 4 long shafts on the Revo, but running a set of short ones doesn't affect the truck.
    ERBE, Summit, Thunder Tiger MT4

  20. #20
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Charleston SC
    Posts
    348
    So.... which ones are short and which ones are long in the summit?
    E Revo brushless, XO-1, Nitro 4 tec 3.3, HPI RS4

  21. #21
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    kansas
    Posts
    6,283
    in a full set you get two long & two short. Put the short in the rear & the long in the front.

    on the Summit they use one long & one short on the front & the same on the rear..

    your link is the correct shafts......
    Would you go flip my truck back over??

  22. #22
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    69
    I have the Summit axles in the front and my stock shafts in the rear look like the pins are getting ready to rip through the yolks so they will need to be replaced soon. I ordered the MIP axles for both the front and rear so hopefully I'll have good luck with those and will no longer need to deal with the yolks and replacing ripped boots. Since I was ordering the MIP set for the rear, figured I would get an additional set in case the Summit axles decide to give.

  23. #23
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Posts
    7
    How long does it take to swap all 4 out? Are the stock ones gonna break on 6S lipo? What is the part number or link for the summit ones and do they fit straight in?

  24. #24
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    19
    I just got my 5608 a couple of weeks back and I took it out for some jumps. Nothing big - 10-15 footers. One or two landings we not 'picture perfect' but what ended my day was a sweet jump that I didn't even need to apply brake to. It sailed level all the way down and when it hit I knew something was very wrong. Turns out (I was hoping for a broken drive shaft since I had not upgraded them yet. When I opened it up it turned out to be the differential out-drive gear snapped off and part of it was still inside the drive shaft (gear part #5382).

    I heard so many idea about bullet proofing the diffs but I'm a guy with a short attention span. ADD, AHDD, OCD, DDT, OPP, I have it all. But don't worry, the doc, the Prozac and me, were working it out.

    I have read so many ideas. I can wrench, no problemo. What should I do to make these diffs as strong as possible. I mean it was such a flat, relatively soft landing that now I'm afraid to push it. I installed the CVD axles but not the drive shafts yet. But those diffs. Should I go for the Losi LST2s? I have a Losi LST2 Electric conversion and it cannot be broken (yet). Which drive shafts?

    Sorry if much of this is a repost but I am desperate so please excuse the verbosity.

    Can someone provide me with a parts list or idea of how to bullet proof these diffs? They say the Losi LST2 diffs fit with some modification, ok, I'm not afraid of no ghosts, but PLEASE HELP! I do not want to try this and try that. You guys are experts and some of the work I've seen is amazing.

    Brother can you spare to drop a dime? Thanks so much. This is the best forum I have ever been on.

    -Black

  25. #25
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    kansas
    Posts
    6,283
    Would you go flip my truck back over??

  26. #26
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    19
    Here is my last question on this. I have a Losi Lst1. Is the diffs the same as the Lst2? Anything else I can use of the LST1??


    Thanks, Blackie

  27. #27
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    W Monroe, Louisiana
    Posts
    1,965
    If they are the same losi CVDs that the lst2 and 8ight (8mm stub axle) use then those are the wonderful axles for the erevo. You just have to make them fit with some shimming.
    Its All relative to your perspective.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts