No throttle at all...

[maxxnslash]

I know there a couple other threads on this, and for some reason non of it is working. I plug a fully charged battery into it and the ESC turns on. It seems to function normal. The servo works perfectly, and I have set it in sport mode, recalibrated the esc to the radio, and even tried another motor. Everything I had tried, and yet still I have no throttle. I'm at a loss. I'm running the Traxxas 2.4 TQ (not the newest TQi), VXL-3m, and stock servo. I have had more problems with these minis than I have got to drive them. Please, if anyone can help it would be awesome.

[Petertje60]

Did you check the wires and connectors that go from the ESC to the motor?

[maxxnslash]

Yea they all seem fine. There is only one tiny little tear in the covering on the white plug. I wouldn't think a 2mm tear would be much to worry about. I would try my other VXL-3m esc, but somehow it went up in smoke after running normal Traxxas nimh packs in series. I still can't even figure out how that esc got trashed. Every time a battery gets plugged into that one, the esc starts bubbling and popping and starts smoking like crazy. Now this esc, motor, or whatever is messed up. I mean I guess if you guys want, walk me fully through the "correct" steps from 1-? to fully reset this thing. I would rather not have to send MORE electronics into Traxxas. I'm going to have a $600 bill from them if their electronics keep toasting.

Did you check the wires and connectors that go from the ESC to the motor?

[Petertje60]

Ok, you already learned running packs in series is not the most easy job for the ESC.
A little tear will probably not prevent your combo from working. If a different motor also doesn't work, then it might be toasted.

[maxxnslash]

Well, I thought the same thing about the esc being toasted, but why would the programming, recalibrating, servo, and even the esc act like its moving the motor but all i hear are very light light beeps from either the motor or esc? This thing is throwing me for a loop for sure. I should have never listened to my "not so local" (about 100miles away) hobby store when they suggested running the series nimh's. I should have stayed with the 3s packs u had. Anyways, is there anything else at all to try? I would rather not send more crap in and spend more money.

Ok, you already learned running packs in series is not the most easy job for the ESC.
A little tear will probably not prevent your combo from working. If a different motor also doesn't work, then it might be toasted.

[CHUMCHAL72]

Upgrade the esc that would be the best thing like my esc just went out and I ordered the sv2 even with that esc you will see more speed with the stock motor
I made the mistake with the servo my first one went out and I bought a new stock one should have upgraded it

[maxxnslash]

I don't want to get too crazy on buying electronics for this thing until I know what's exactly wrong with it. I don't have any clue in the world why it's doing this. It acts like it should work, but something isn't fully set. I don't understand.

Upgrade the esc that would be the best thing like my esc just went out and I ordered the sv2 even with that esc you will see more speed with the stock motor
I made the mistake with the servo my first one went out and I bought a new stock one should have upgraded it

[maxxnslash]

Well, anyone else have any suggestions? I was hoping to not have to send these escs in, but it looks like I will have to.

[maxxnslash]

Bump for any other help with this. I really don't want to buy another system, send this one in, or go to an aftermarket non brushless or non waterproof motor/esc combo.

[Petertje60]

I can understand you dont want it, but Im afraid that is the only road to go as far as I can judge.

[maxxnslash]

I can understand you dont want it, but Im afraid that is the only road to go as far as I can judge.

Does anyone else make a bl motor system that's a SB that is also waterproof or at least water resistant?

[Petertje60]

HPI sells the Flux Vapor, which is a waterproof version of the Castle Sidewinder. There are some methods used to waterproof the Castle one. Most brushless motors are waterproof.

[50togo]

My motor combo is water resistant 6000kv got2gorc killer power too! Draws over 100a but can still run on a single battery

[maxxnslash]

Yea I remember you saying something about that motor setup. If it draws over 100a what exactly does it mean? I mean I'm sure you need really good lipo batteries to run it well. I've got a 2s traxxas and a 3s traxxas i can't remember the C ratings on either though. I also have 2 3s venom packs that I cant remember the c ratings on either. Would those be enough? Anyone else heard much about this system?

[Petertje60]

When you are talking about 100A, I assume that is on 2S. And even on 2S it is a serious amount of power for a Traxxas 1/16 car. I just prepared my Merv to see what it does on 2S and 4S with the MMP/4600 in it. I will run it with two SPC 2500mAh 2S 30C packs.

[nitsuj]

That's over 1hp!

8v*100apms, that is 550 foot-lbs / second.

Do you think the differentials in a merv can take 550-FOOT-LBS per second of force? (let alone the motor itself) lol, It'd be a differential gear blender

I use a 100 amp esc just because it runs so cool powering a merv I figure it'll last longer.

[Jimmie Neutron]

Is the Tx flashing fast green?
That would prevent movement of the motor.

Also, even though your servo works... it does not mean that it is not causing weird electrical issues. I have seen this before... where the servo "worked" yet unplugging it allowed everything else to start functioning normally.

[50togo]

sorry for the hijack .i emailed got2gorc and he told me it draws over 100a and to be sure i have strong batteries.i run boost 2 cell 122a cont,and boost 3 cell 108a cont and ******* 2250 65/130 . on a 2 cell with medium gearing on a cheap ******* 2200 30c battery i ran 40.6mph ,i brought it in and put the 2250 65/130 in and ran 43.6 gps verified. so it's pulling some power, then i put 31/45 gearing and ran 50.2 on a 2cell. it's a powerful system .couldn't get a 3 cell top end anything more than 1/2 throttle it would just wheelie .running out of road around 60 i nailed it and flipped over

[50togo]

let us know peter sounds like fun!

[50togo]

you take the battery multiply ma 2450 x c rating 50 (2450x50=122a)continuous

[Cipher_Jones]

C = amps per second. A 50C battery can pull 50 amps per second, no more. 2 50C batteries in series can pull 50C, 2 in parallel can pull 100.

Also, I cant speak for everyone, but here's some ratings from RC's I have owned...

Slash 1/16, stock, 6 cells, 27mph, 9 amps.

Emaxx 20 cells (10 series 10 parallel), hacker 8s (4613KV), 50mph, 22 amps.

Rustler, lehner 4200, 6 cells, 30 mph, 14.4 amps.

That is average. The reason the numbers are smaller than the battery ratings is because the batteries have to compensate for extreme braking and acceleration.

The vxl-3m is rated at 52amps constant. Its not pulling 100 amps for more than a few milliseconds.

[50togo]

I think.you need to do some research on that

[f687s]

Did you check the wires and connectors that go from the ESC to the motor?

and check the calibration too, and the connectors

[Jimmie Neutron]

C rating is not the only information needed to calculate amperage.

A 1 mAh 50C battery will not provide 50 amps.

To calculate available amperage:
mAh x minimum discharge C rate / 1,000 = available amps
For example, I'll use the same 2450mah 50C pack as above.
2,450 x 50 / 1000 = 122.5
This battery pack can consistently provide up to 122.5 amps.

Also, 50 is not running a stock ESC.

[50togo]

Thanks Jimmie ! I was busy making carne asada burritos for lunch

[Cipher_Jones]

C rating is not the only information needed to calculate amperage.

A 1 mAh 50C battery will not provide 50 amps.

To calculate available amperage:
mAh x minimum discharge C rate / 1,000 = available amps
For example, I'll use the same 2450mah 50C pack as above.
2,450 x 50 / 1000 = 122.5
This battery pack can consistently provide up to 122.5 amps.

Also, 50 is not running a stock ESC.

1 Coulomb = 1 amp for 1 second. A 50C rated pack pushing 122.5 amps is in danger of meltdown. The most that pack can safely pass is 50 amps per second.

Amp draw = amp hours/(run time/3600)

So running a 2450mah (2.45 amp hours) battery at 122.5 amps would net...

transpose...
Run time = (amp hours/amp draw) x 3600.

(2.45/122.5)3600= 72 seconds.

I don't think so.

[50togo]

you don't have too

[Cipher_Jones]

you don't have too

I see now that C refers to the discharge capacity and not coulombs. Its like if they came up with a new "mph" that didn't mean Miles Per Hour. C means coulumbs in electronics. So I read how the discharge rating on batteries works. I stand corrected.

However the amp draw formula is still correct, and a 122.5 amp draw on that battery would in fact deplete it in 72 seconds. Which would fry OP's ESC barring a miracle.

But back to the OP's problem, Where is the 2nd motor you tested it with from? It functions for certain? I take it the original ESC was not covered under warranty? Or the one you have now?

You asked how to do a full reset earlier and nobiody answered that I saw, so...

1. Turn on your transmitter and turn off the VLX-3. Find the red EZ-SET button located on the front face of the ESC. 2. Press the "EZ-SET" button and hold it until a solid green light illuminates. Continue holding the button until the green light turns red, then begins blinking red. 3. Release the "EZ-SET" button once the red light has blinked a single time. Wait while the red light changes to a solid green color. The VXL-3 is now in Sport Mode, or Profile 1. This is a factory-set profile, and thus the default mode. Your VXL-3 is now reset.

Hope that helps.

Also, 50 is not running a stock ESC.

OP is.

[maxxnslash]

Is the Tx flashing fast green?
That would prevent movement of the motor.

Also, even though your servo works... it does not mean that it is not causing weird electrical issues. I have seen this before... where the servo "worked" yet unplugging it allowed everything else to start functioning normally.

The weird thing is, it acts as if it functions normally. Then, when you pull the trigger full throttle, it only sits and quietly, and consistantly beeps. It sounds like it is coming from the esc, but I don't understand why it is doing it? Unplugging the servo didn't solve it either. Also, TX is seeming to function normally.

and check the calibration too, and the connectors

I has been recalibrated, yet I am still experiencing issues.

I see now that C refers to the discharge capacity and not coulombs. Its like if they came up with a new "mph" that didn't mean Miles Per Hour. C means coulumbs in electronics. So I read how the discharge rating on batteries works. I stand corrected.

However the amp draw formula is still correct, and a 122.5 amp draw on that battery would in fact deplete it in 72 seconds. Which would fry OP's ESC barring a miracle.

But back to the OP's problem, Where is the 2nd motor you tested it with from? It functions for certain? I take it the original ESC was not covered under warranty? Or the one you have now?

You asked how to do a full reset earlier and nobiody answered that I saw, so...



Hope that helps.

OP is.

The second motor I have is something I picked up used on a second merv I have. I had no promise it worked sadly. Anyways, my first esc in this truck was somehow melted along with my two nimh batteries in series?? Then, this esc the kid ran 2 3s packs in parallel and he said that's when this issue started. I'm not 100% if it's the motor, esc or what it is. I have a voltmeter though if I can test anything with that? I may go through the ENTIRE re settings tonight.

[Cipher_Jones]

The second motor I have is something I picked up used on a second merv I have. I had no promise it worked sadly. Anyways, my first esc in this truck was somehow melted along with my two nimh batteries in series?? Then, this esc the kid ran 2 3s packs in parallel and he said that's when this issue started. I'm not 100% if it's the motor, esc or what it is. I have a voltmeter though if I can test anything with that? I may go through the ENTIRE re settings tonight.

I would test it with a VOM, but I have never had to test a BL so....

http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/topic/11...ushless-motor/

[Petertje60]

Brushless motors are fed with pulses, so you will not be able to measure a constant voltage on the wires. When brushless motors lose power, it most of the time is caused by the magnet(s) losing their power due to a too high temperature (>200F). Other things that can wear are the bearings in it.

Dont get fooled by discharge ratings. Even a battery with a high C-rating will deliver all those amps at a siginificant lower voltage.
I ran with 2 x 2500mAh 2S 30C in parallel yesterday, so that is a total discharge current of 150A (2 x 2.5 x 30) together. At current spikes of 80A, the voltage drop is already around 10%. That means 10% less power than you would expect.
I have no professional equipment to measure the data (just an Eagletree eLogger), but I have reasonable confidence in the measured amp rates and voltage drops.
So I can sound cool and say that my combo delivers 750W, but on a full throttle run through high grass, I dont even get to half of that when I take the average from a 2 second slice.

[maxxnslash]

I would test it with a VOM, but I have never had to test a BL so....

http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/topic/11...ushless-motor/

I'm tempted to just give up. I've tired of messing with it. I may just get this... http://www.ebay.com/itm/200569494444...ht_1363wt_1037 Then if one of my motors works, fantasic. lol If not, I'll send one or the other or both off for backup motors. This seems like one heck of a setup though. As I was trying to calibrate, test, and get readings my esc is warming up... I don't know if that's normal or not... Either there are A LOT of these fluke mess ups, or these motor systems flat out SUCK.

[maxxnslash]

Brushless motors are fed with pulses, so you will not be able to measure a constant voltage on the wires. When brushless motors lose power, it most of the time is caused by the magnet(s) losing their power due to a too high temperature (>200F). Other things that can wear are the bearings in it.

Dont get fooled by discharge ratings. Even a battery with a high C-rating will deliver all those amps at a siginificant lower voltage.
I ran with 2 x 2500mAh 2S 30C in parallel yesterday, so that is a total discharge current of 150A (2 x 2.5 x 30) together. At current spikes of 80A, the voltage drop is already around 10%. That means 10% less power than you would expect.
I have no professional equipment to measure the data (just an Eagletree eLogger), but I have reasonable confidence in the measured amp rates and voltage drops.
So I can sound cool and say that my combo delivers 750W, but on a full throttle run through high grass, I dont even get to half of that when I take the average from a 2 second slice.

That's a nice bit of information Peter, thanks! Oh, also what are some options to solving the crappy setup in the diffs? I think on my good revo I can now kind of hear them clicking just by quickly rotating the rear wheels with my hand. I thought maybe integy made a good repair option for them? I could be wrong. Any information possible there would be awesome. I'm going to have waaaaaaaay too much time and effort wrapped into this thing. lol

[Petertje60]

Stripped diffs is one of the most common problems with the 1/16 cars. There are tons of threads about it. I use aluminum bulkheads and carefully shimmed the diffs which worked good so far. Getting a snug mesh without too much binding is the trick.
Avoiding full throttle or brake landings and stuff like back flips from a stand still helps to save them.

[maxxnslash]

Is there an actual fully assembled diff setup that is already pre shimmed? I have no clue how to shim nor have I ever had to do it. I looked up threads about it one time but it's been a while back

[Petertje60]

Jimmy Neutron wrote a nice setup how to.

As far as I know there is no preshimmed setup. I am still waiting for one of the hopup companies to come with an upgrade for the differentials.

[maxxnslash]

Jimmy Neutron wrote a nice setup how to.

As far as I know there is no preshimmed setup. I am still waiting for one of the hopup companies to come with an upgrade for the differentials.

Alright cool thanks. I'm sure if I get that esc i linked from Ebay, I'll need these diffs shimmed. 50 was telling me of his experiences about how nasty this system is. I want to get it and hopefully not have as many or any troubles with it. I would at least like to have this mini running for more than a week at a time. It's acting like a Ford. lol

[Petertje60]

In reference to my post about power, I would not take those 192A very serious. I heared good things about it, but I simply refuse to believe it will do 192A. And even if it does, you will never use it. The same goes for the VXL-3m specs by the way.

Although diff problems are very common, that doesnt mean everyone has them. I know guys who abused their Mervs pretty much and never even heard of diff problems.

[maxxnslash]

Well I mean I know they "claim" that, but I wonder what it's all actually sitting at, how it's durability is, does it get hot, how "water resistant" is it, etc. I mean from 50's videos it seems pretty legit, but idk about 192A legit. lol What are your more indepth thoughts about the esc Peter?

[Petertje60]

I dont have in depth thoughts about it, because I never used it myself. I don't know many people that own it, so I can only repeat what I hear or read from others. An advantage of the got2go combo is that it's a 380 can motor so you COG stays lower than with larger motors. I am curious what the ESC will do with the stock motor.