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  1. #41
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. O.G.'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by harry697 View Post
    I may still have some sheets of the 3M vinyl at my shop. They're used a lot on 1:1 cars for stone protectors on paint, like in front of the rear wheel wells and rocker panel moldings. If I can find any, I'll send them your way.

    The hole in the bottom of the trans is most likely an attempt at keeping the overall CoG of the trans down. The Magnum trans uses a hug diff gear (60-tooth) compared to most manufacturers. Even the older Traxxas buggies didn't have the hole because they used a much smaller diff gear. If the hole wasn't there, the whole diff would probably sit almost 1/4" higher so it wouldn't hit the bottom of the cases.
    After I test fit the stock diff in the GH alu case I see what you mean. The differential is low enough to break the plane of the lower case, hence the hole in the bottom. I've always used *** alu cases and they do not have the hole, so I guess their piece is engineered to raise the differential enough to clear the bottom of the case. I wish I had and *** case handy to compare height with the GH case because I suspect the *** is going to be a little taller. All my FLM cases are already installed in trucks.
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  2. #42
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    Im also curious about the vip, how much did the set up run?
    P2de ~ Ultimate Slash 4x4 ~ Bandit

  3. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by O.G. View Post
    After I test fit the stock diff in the GH alu case I see what you mean. The differential is low enough to break the plane of the lower case, hence the hole in the bottom. I've always used *** alu cases and they do not have the hole, so I guess their piece is engineered to raise the differential enough to clear the bottom of the case. I wish I had and *** case handy to compare height with the GH case because I suspect the *** is going to be a little taller. All my FLM cases are already installed in trucks.
    Does the GH gearbox case have adjustable anti-squat?

    Unlike FLM the GH site doesn't seem to have a whole lot of info...

  4. #44
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    The Hot Racing cases are adjustable for anti-squat...
    Wanna bash at Greenwood Bashplex in Pittsburgh ???

  5. #45
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    the GH is not adjustable as far as I know...
    Everything overpowered...

  6. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by tagar89 View Post
    Im also curious about the vip, how much did the set up run?
    The viper 4500 sensorless is about $140 on eBay, $150 at Amain.

    They also have sensored setups but I think they're 540 sized and I wanted the bigger can.
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  7. #47
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. harry697's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cunawarit View Post
    Does the GH gearbox case have adjustable anti-squat?

    Unlike FLM the GH site doesn't seem to have a whole lot of info...
    It's kinda hard to tell, but it looks like the arm mounts are removable from the trans cases:



    If that is the case, you should be able to adjust the squat angle.

  8. #48
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    My concern was that on the right side in that picture the arm mount slots into the tranny case, so I didn't know if you could get enough of an angle.

    Does that make sense?

  9. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by harry697 View Post
    It's kinda hard to tell, but it looks like the arm mounts are removable from the trans cases:



    If that is the case, you should be able to adjust the squat angle.
    How does anti-squat work? More anti-squat equals better traction, correct? Can more anti-squat be applied with firmer springs?
    My Black & Blue Rally is faster than your color...

  10. #50
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. O.G.'s Avatar
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    Updates on the build:

    Received the Protrac suspension kit and began installing. The front A-arms fit pretty tightly so I'll have to dremel a little out to make for a smooth suspension travel.






    Received STRC bulkhead and it's a beautiful piece. Note the machining marks under the anodized blue:



    My Black & Blue Rally is faster than your color...

  11. #51
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    Had to bust out the Dremel tool to grind down a bit of the A-arm, now I can begin assembly.

    Lest anyone wonder what's in the box:



    The 'workbench' is getting crowded with three ongoing projects.

    My Black & Blue Rally is faster than your color...

  12. #52
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. harry697's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by O.G. View Post
    How does anti-squat work? More anti-squat equals better traction, correct? Can more anti-squat be applied with firmer springs?
    This will make more sense than me trying to explain it.

    http://www.competitionx.com/rc-racin...ng-anti-squat/

  13. #53
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    Protrac question to guys who have used em: The STRC and stock screws seem a little tight to me on assembly. Has anyone had this problem and what was the solution?

    On a different project, I had to ream out the stocker A-arms on my Slash to get the STRC pin kit to fit smoothly. I guess I'll have to do the same here.
    My Black & Blue Rally is faster than your color...

  14. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by harry697 View Post
    It's kinda hard to tell, but it looks like the arm mounts are removable from the trans cases:



    If that is the case, you should be able to adjust the squat angle.
    And yes the arms are removable from the case. They bolt in from the inside of the transmission case, but I haven't seen other toe-in options like FLM offers.
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  15. #55
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    I just realized there are some issues with the Golden Horizons transmission case, brought to my attention by Jericon on the post I have linked below. Turns out the transmission bearings on the passenger side of the case do not sit flush and several members have had fitment problems. I'm not sure how to proceed transmission-wise at this time... But I have plenty of other work to do on the truck until that gets resolved.

    http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...ion-rough-spot
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  16. #56
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    Here is the response I received from GH about my bad alu transmission:

    Hello Doug,

    We are in the works of fixing this issue. We will be getting a new batch
    of gear boxes with this problem fixed beginning of next month. We will
    certainly warranty the gear box for you, but we will require you to send
    it back to us and fill out the warranty request form on our website. Here
    is the link: http://www.ghhobby.com/faq.php.

    Sorry for any inconvenience caused,


    --
    GH Racing
    ph. 604.331.2526
    www.ghhobby.com
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  17. #57
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    Okay here are some pics of the carbon fiber parts I ordered. First up is the extreme racing upper chassis part, then the STRC chassis extension pieces. I couldn't locate them in aluminum so I ordered it in carbon fiber.



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  18. #58
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    Here are a few close-ups of the Associated slipper/spur setup I plan to run on the truck. I think the AE slipper is superior to the stock traxxas and much cheaper and more forgiving than the Robinson racing spur setup. The AE parts are cheap and easy to find. The entire kit was about $25 including the STRC machined layshaft to make the conversion to AE.




    Now all I need is a transmission to complete the build...
    My Black & Blue Rally is faster than your color...

  19. #59
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    On Saturday I returned my GH aluminum transmission for warranty repair. At this point I don't know if they will send me a new, improved one or repair mine and return. At any rate, I'm looking for another transmission. I've always used FLM and never had a problem. I guess I'll keep looking for a different option. I'd like to order a proline but I think they have some bugs to work out first.

    Any suggestions?
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  20. #60
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    sorry man, dont have any experience with transmissions, but by the looks of the pictures and the list of parts it seems like it is going to be a great car, if you could will you post a picture of the entire car (with all the parts installed)-thanks

  21. #61
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    Nice build, many unique parts. I think this will be a killer.

  22. #62
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    Can you elaborate on that top plate, why do the sides stick so far out?
    Everything overpowered...

  23. #63
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    I have three GH tranny cases and the only problem I've had is one of the arm mount screws came loose so I had to take the tranny alert just to tight it. But other that they have been working great.

  24. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by rustlersvxl4life View Post
    Is strc available in England?
    Man I hope so for your sake. STRC and FLM are the best. Top quality and perform good on the street. Google Fast Lane Machine, and teamstrc.
    My Black & Blue Rally is faster than your color...

  25. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by QYKSLVR View Post
    Can you elaborate on that top plate, why do the sides stick so far out?
    SLVR that's a good question... I wondered that myself when I bolted it on yesterday - it's a little too wide for my taste and it shows off my plain Jane stock plastic bellcranks... So I placed an order for STRC bellcranks in color blue. I'll post up some pics of it tonight so you'll see what I mean.
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  26. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by ttThree View Post
    Nice build, many unique parts. I think this will be a killer.
    Thanks ttThree, I am trying to use parts that are new to me. Over the past couple years I realized I began using parts from just a few different manufacturers, mainly because they worked and were reliable, but there are new companies that we need to begin using to encourage production. I was a business major so I can't help thinking that way. So it is what it is.
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  27. #67
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    Here are a few pics of my eXtreme Racing upper chassis brace. As you can see it really shows off the bellcranks and future servo so I need to step it up a notch; I don't want people to look at plastic bellcranks through my $30 piece of carbon fiber.

    It also sticks out pretty far, quite a bit more than the stock brace, but it should be protected by the lid and the lower chassis.









    Next up are the new tires, 1/8 Yoko Truggy tires from Suprasales off ebay. I think I'll paint them gloss black unless I can find a paint color to match then I'll just paint up a matching lid. Pictures are the Yoko's, 1/8 buggy tires, stock Slash tire and stock Rustler tire.





    At this point I've decided to go High and Wide with this one: Yoko tires to go HIGH, and Proline Protrac kit to go WIDE.
    My Black & Blue Rally is faster than your color...

  28. #68
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    Pic of the T-bone front bumper and Viper copperhead esc.

    My Black & Blue Rally is faster than your color...

  29. #69
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    Pic of the T-bone front bumper and Viper copperhead esc.

    My Black & Blue Rally is faster than your color...

  30. #70
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    I got a PM about balancing tires I'd like to answer. First of all, I always balance my tires and a few times I've ran across a tire that didn't need it, but mostly they do when you consider all the variables which go into the finished product:

    1. The wheel itself
    2. Foam
    3. Rubber
    4. Glue

    Very rare is it that all four components put together will equal a balanced out wheel. So take the following steps which can be done within an hour for all 4 wheels.

    Step 1: wipe down the inside of the wheel in the area of the pictured modeling clay. Obviously this is much easier on a new tire.

    Step 2: before applying clay, thoroughly clean that area with rubbing alcohol. This removes whatever residue may remain after the initial cleaning.

    Step 3: spin the tire by hand and look to see if it stops in the same place two times in a row. Mark the opposite side of the tire with a pencil. The bottom of the tire opposite of the pencil mark is the heavy part of the tire.

    Step 4: add a small ball of clay to wheel under the pencil mark and spin tire. If tire stops in the same place, add more clay and repeat until the tire stops randomly two or more times. You are adding weight to the lighter side of the tire to balance it. After you finish, really push in the clay and taper out the edges for more holding power. I prefer to add clay into a crevise as pictured because it holds much better.

    Step 5: repeat for other three tires and you are finished. At this point, all 4 tires should stop randomly.

    Methods of spinning the tire: loosening the wheel nut and spinning on the axle, using a piece of clothes hanger for the axle, buying a $60 RC wheel balancer off ebay. LOL

    Pretty simple for the reward of balanced tires. That modeling clay on the SC tire has lasted a year or so.

    Here is an inside-the-wheel picture of the SC tire pictured above:





    Pic of a pro balancer:

    Last edited by O.G.; 07-17-2012 at 10:30 PM.
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  31. #71
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. O.G.'s Avatar
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    Here is an updated parts list. Most are installed but some are still on order. I scrapped my plans for a GH Racing alu transmission... still looking for a replacement:

    Yoko 1/8 Truggy tires
    eXtreme Racing carbon fiber upper chassis brace.
    Losi Ten-T aluminum shocks
    Associated slipper/spur setup.
    T-bone front bumper and wheelie bar.
    overseas 3s lipo
    Hitec 945mg servo
    Viper VX4 Copperhead 550 esc/4500kv motor.
    Dyed black chassis
    Proline Protrac wide suspension setup.
    Traxxas c blocks and 17mm adapters.
    STRC lcg kit to extend the chassis.
    STRC carbon fiber chassis braces.
    STRC hinge pin kit.
    Proline Revo slipstream lid.
    T-bone front bumper and rear wheelie bar.
    Futaba 3pl transmitter.
    Novak glitchbuster to prevent brownouts
    Exceed RC GD-4 gyro.
    Swami aluminum differential.
    RC Screwz stainless steel screw kit.
    Traxxas HD driveshaft assembly (Slash 4x4 driveshafts)
    My Black & Blue Rally is faster than your color...

  32. #72
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    Here are a few pics of the gyro. I'll decide where to mount it after my Rusty receiver box arrives - the cable is pretty short which limits placement.



    My Black & Blue Rally is faster than your color...

  33. #73
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    Wow nice build O.G. Your going all out on this basher. I like the way your going with it. Are going to have smaller wheels on the front? I can't wait to see it finished in a running video. Is that viper motor/esc combo a 1/8 scale set up? How do you like it?

  34. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by rraattrroodd View Post
    Wow nice build O.G. Your going all out on this basher. I like the way your going with it. Are going to have smaller wheels on the front? I can't wait to see it finished in a running video. Is that viper motor/esc combo a 1/8 scale set up? How do you like it?
    The Viper is a 1/10 setup but it's a 4 pole and very powerful. I use one on my race Slash with great results: plenty of low speed torque and good power all the way to top speed. I've only ran it on 2s so far at the track but with the Rusty I plan to run a 3s setup.
    My Black & Blue Rally is faster than your color...

  35. #75
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Desert JATO's Avatar
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    OG , your thread is so iformative.
    from where did got that gyro ?

  36. #76
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    Thanks for the compliment, I really appreciate it.

    I ordered the gyro from one of those hong kong websites. I bought two, one for this Rusty buildand one for my slash racer. I really like it on dirt but I have to unplug it for races.. It reacts a little unusual until you get used to it, and it is overridden by any steering input from the driver. Basically it tries to make you go in a straight line, sort of...
    My Black & Blue Rally is faster than your color...

  37. #77
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    I finally remembered why these vipers looked so fimiliar. I remember checking out there products before the vx4 was out and i was really interested. Then i wrecked my pede and got out of the hobbie for a couple months. at 135 for the 540 size combo its starting to look even better.
    P2de ~ Ultimate Slash 4x4 ~ Bandit

  38. #78
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Desert JATO's Avatar
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    Thanks O.G i got your point. i know some of those east asia shops. i thought that you got it from the states .

  39. #79
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    Next thing to go on is the hitec servo. It's well-used but still very serviceable. I got this for my old Pede a few years back when my son decided he wanted to race it at the track. We lowered it, put on some decent tires, dropped in a Trinity Green Monster and the Hitec 945mg servo. He had a blast with it.

    Hitec 945mg servo:



    To ward off any potential brownouts, I'm plugging in a Novak glitch buster stock #NOV5626. I have two of these little gems on other trucks and they have never let me down. If you have an intermittent servo or steering problem with your truck it may be a brownout. Sometimes your truck will just sit there for a second like it's frozen or thinking about what it should do while you're turning the wheel or squeezing the throttle... one of these will probably help.

    The glitch buster plugs into one of your unused radio receiver ports and regulates voltage in your system.

    My Black & Blue Rally is faster than your color...

  40. #80
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    So is the AE slipper supieror because of more surface contact? Why is it so much better then stock?
    P2de ~ Ultimate Slash 4x4 ~ Bandit

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