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  1. #41
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    Well, everything can happen, theres a risk with speedrunning. But more durable parts will hold up better, but to a realistic level. Driving 60+ mph and crash, will brake most of the things anyway. If we believe that our build will end in a catastrophy any way, then its no point selling aftermarket parts, or any rc going above 20 mph.

    As I said before, I dont believe these parts will bring the rustler to 70 mph alone, or even above, I have other reasons for upgrading to aftermarket parts. How ever, im upgrading the car for straight line running, like weight, foams, lower suspension, etc., and hence the title of this thread. If I would have throw money for a basher project, or a track runner, I would have called the thread "RPM VXL Rustler, track setup", and I would have used parts suited for circuit racing instead.

    You are giving a good example of "money, but no brains", as your friend wrecked your truck.

  2. #42
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    will you be running it on a closed/open road or car park of some sort. as someone else on here with a slash 4x4 said 0-70 in about 5.5 seconds. But it takes around 500 feet to get up to that speed, and probably 300 to come to a stop. 70mph is over 100ft/s. as foe me i have just been on google earth of my local area to find a running area. the biggest supermarket in the area has a straight of about 500ft way to short. and the only other place is the seafront which is around 650ft but has areas that get sand blown onto to them. so my plan of doing a rustler likes yours is on hold for ever now. lol looks like i might have to start flying RC planes again to get my speed fix. (300mph pylon racer) WOOSHHHHHHHHH
    slash revo vxl x4 rally x2 ped 2wd slash vxl rus

  3. #43
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    I got a couple of places to run, that are close to where i live. One is a parking lot, around 550 feet long, and the other one is a road, with smooth asphalt, its 870 feet. Other than that there are roads and other places, but more far from where i live, I have to do some research if they are good enough. There are several industry areas that are pretty empty, also some parking lots, I intend to do my runs there. Theres also a very straight road outside my town, over 1 km straight, because they intended to build rail track once upon a time. How ever its only 7 meters wide (22 feet). Other than that there are also small airports in remote areas, but i dont know if private people could enter.

    I wont be running my 70+ gearing all the time though, i will gear it down and make some runs. I use 35/76 with foams, but i also have 26, 27, 28, 30, 31, 33 pinions. I may even bash around on 2s some times. A speed rustler doesnt have to do 70 all the time though, 50 mph is very fast. Actually the title should be "50-70 mph setup"

  4. #44
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    Yesterdays update consisted of making the heatsink more narrow, so it could fit with the new gearbox. Since its half the size it was before, the cooling wont be that good. How ever with a alloy tranny, I hope the cooling will be sufficient enough. I also secured the heatsink with zip ties, for those that believe that it will "fall off". Some cooling paste was applied between the sink and the motor.

    Some brief pictures




    Air will flow and cool the motor


    I also recieved the last of my RPM parts. This is the gear cover


    The front body mount, more durable then stock


    RPM shock protectors mounted




    I also mounted the 30x30 mm fan on the esc.


    Since the body sits higher than stock (or to low) with the rpm mounts, there was a gap between the body and the bulkhead. I made a front diffuser preventing air to enter.


    I found a piece of black nylon in my cellar, 150x20x9mm, this I can cut in suitable lenghts, and use as spacers for the esc plate. This is instead of plastic or alloy pipe.



    Stay tuned.
    Last edited by ttThree; 05-25-2012 at 11:18 AM.

  5. #45
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. O.G.'s Avatar
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    Are the shock protectors there for a reason or for looks? I haven't damaged my shocks before but they sure get filthy on the track... Right where those protectors would go.

    Sent from the cockpit of my Jeep Wrangler
    My Black & Blue Rally is faster than your color...

  6. #46
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    Dad and See, there's pros and cons to both...

    The stock one will break but its cheap.

    The aluminium one doesn't bend or break easily at all but then the parts connecting to it do.
    0111001101101001011001110000110100001010

  7. #47
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    Well, the protectors is there for a reason, you also get a more durable rod end and spring cap with the kit which you can put on the shock shaft. These parts alone is sold by rpm too.

  8. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by ttThree View Post
    As mentioned before I got to make a new esc plate, and some kind of mounting for the esc fan. Right now my top priority is to solder trx connectors to the battery, which didnt went so well, because of "wrong" solder. 60/40 and 100w solder iron next to come.

    /tt3
    I'm not an expert on soldering, but I think 60/40 is the wrong solder... too much lead, it could "desolder" itself with high current flow. I have a battery connector on a Castle Mamba Max ESC I got off Ebay that had melted twice now, first on one side, then on the other and I'm guessing they used the wrong solder, maybe plumbing solder. I use lead free rosin flux core fine electrical repair solder that's 95 or 96% tin, 4 or 5% silver and a 45W soldering iron and I've had no problems with the connection quality.

    Just my two cents...
    What broke, uh, needs upgrading now?

  9. #49
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    good thinking with the front diffuser. also i was looking for speed run rustler info and found someone who got to 75mph with no real issues but when he got near to 80mph the car just kept lifting even though he had loads of weight. would it be possible to seal all around the body with tape just before each run. as i think the body is the main issue with flipping.

    and is that front body mount new out as i have never seen one before.
    Last edited by turok; 05-25-2012 at 02:31 PM.
    slash revo vxl x4 rally x2 ped 2wd slash vxl rus

  10. #50
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    Hello,

    60/40 solder is the kind you are using when soldering electronics, and the solder that is recomended. How ever there are other solders that may work. The point is to have a solder that melts fast enough, so the wires dont get to hot. I followed a guide found on youtube, soldering trx connections. I also have lead free solder, but it doesnt melt as good as the 60/40, nor does it look as neat. 60/40 melts around 188-190 degrees, and lead free solder melts around 300 degrees celsius, which is to much.

    @ turok, you can seal the body, but there are people running over 90 mph pretty steady without flipping. This is because they use more weight in the front, like 1 pound and xxx ounces, have to check it up. Also they are running 6s lipos (3s+3s), and that is also added weight. And possibly a gps in the front, adding even more weight. I dont know how functional my front diffuser will be since I will run around 65-70 mph, which can be done fairly stock. The diffuser is more for the looks i guess.

    As far as I know, you can prevent the car from catching air by adding more weight, but even by working with the aerodynamics. If I found any flexible thin plastic, I may seal the wheel arches. Draven spoke about making holes in the back of the body, letting the air that enters under the body, exit. This will prevent the "parachute effect". I have ventilation holes in the back, so if Dravens theory is correct, I will have less "parachute effect".

    The rpm body mount is for the slash 2wd and rustler. Part number 81122. I dont know if its new though.
    Last edited by ttThree; 05-25-2012 at 03:19 PM.

  11. #51
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    if the weight is fighting the body to keep the front on the ground that should mean that the drag being produced is very high so some way to seal it would be better. or even having more of a air outlet on the shell might be good. i have a 1/18th scale car and i have had it upto around 45mph. but while testing it at lower speeds it hit a small stone and still flipped when air got caught under the body. and it was only doing 21mph.
    slash revo vxl x4 rally x2 ped 2wd slash vxl rus

  12. #52
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    Some people run without bodies. How ever for that kind of speed im intend to run, I dont think heavy modding on aero is needed. Not only weight fights the drag, also the height of the vehicle. A vehicle with higher ground clearance, will catch air and fly more easily i guess. My car isnt super low, its like one inch ground clearance, which is common on speedrun rustlers, and much lower than stock.

  13. #53
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    You know what i haven't seen such a simple yet amazing setup like this. This is solely the reason I stick with traxxas rc cars!!!!!

  14. #54
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    Update of today,

    As mentioned before I use 180 grams of weight in the front, 105 gram is between the shocks tower, and 75 grams are behind the shock tower. Since I wanted to move more weight to the front, I made a plate of alloy, allowing me to move those 75 grams of weight infront of the 105 grams. Note, I now have 120 grams between the shock towers, and 60 grams infront. I wanted to use the weight I have in a more effective way.


    Before


    ...and after. Im going to replace the tape on the weights, this is just for showing. As the body sits a little bit higher in the front, with the rpm mounts, I can put more stuff towards the front end, not scraping the inside of the body.


    I also made a template for the battery plate, securing the lipo.


    This is the finished item, I used some foam on one side, so the metal doesnt scrape against the lipo.
    [img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8001/7275622778_9f46191d50.jpg[img]



    Mounted. This is a alternative to the velcro securing the battery, as the little plate takes less place.


    I also found some mesh grill so I could cover the holes. They are secured with aluminum tape, and on top of that is painters tape, preventing the heat to reflect back (alloy tape is a very good reflector).


    The lower part of the body, and around the wheel arches, is covered with aluminum tape, as it protects the areas from getting scratched.

    See you soon
    Last edited by ttThree; 05-26-2012 at 05:27 PM.

  15. #55
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    Where did you get the sleeving for the wires. Me likey Nice job on the vents as well. Looks killer.
    Stampede VXL
    E MAXX - Go Big Joe's or go home!

  16. #56
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    These days I have been fiddling with a couple of stuff. First off I made a template for the esc plate. See below.



    I choose some 4mm thick aluminum, just so I could screw the esc to it. I didnt want to use alloy stuff, but since I have small pieces of alloy all around, it was more convenient then looking for plastic, frp, etc.


    The space is very tight between the battery plate and the esc plate. I have small fingers though =).


    The esc fitted for test


    I got my TiN shafts by mail, unfortunately the alloy shock caps didnt fit the ultrashocks since I bought the "big bore" ones. I thought it looked nice with gun metallic. I put the shock upgrade on hold untill I recieve the new caps.


    My bulkhead also arrived by mail today. I ordered it from integy thru my hobby dealer. 5 days shipping time from US to Sweden is pretty fast. It was also cheap.


    Its for the slash 2wd by the way, because all rustler bulkheads is on back order on integys website. How ever it fits, and its cheaper.


    I secured the weight with aluminum tape, they now work as a single piece instead of individual pieces. I also put some carbon sticker on top for visual appearance.


    I now use 300 grams of weight, 220 grams is infront of the shock tower, and 80 grams is under the tower. The reason I increased the weight is because I got mixed signals. Draven recommend 6 oz for vxl application, how ever on his video you can see that he has more weight that he doesnt mention, also his weight is more to the front that I had before. Other people using 6-7 oz weight have all weight on the front bumper. I have also seen people mentioning 10-13 oz of weight, so I took a shot at 10 oz, which is around 300 grams.


    I also got additional 60 grams of weight wrapped in alloy tape, that can be put anywhere.


    Tomorrow I will get some screws and secure the esc plate to the nylon spacers. Hopefully my new shock caps will arrive as well. I also hope my gyro arrives this week. It has been alot of hassle with the fault gyro I got, first it took 5 days to arrive, then 3 days to return back, and additional 2 weeks for the owner to answer my mail. Then around 1 week untill he confirms a refund. Aerotronic.nl....not the fastest ones.

    Stay tuned.

    @ Stampede: I bought the sleeves in a online audio/hifi store, you can find them in computer modding shops selling water cooling stuff, and on ebay as well.

  17. #57
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    Update of today.

    I have been finishing my esc mount, and I works pretty well, it seems solid. I also got my gyro in mail today.

    I mounted it on the battery with sticky velcro because I wanted it centered.




    Top view


    Cable management, not the best one, but all I could manage


    Okay to todays test run. Since my esc has early lvc problem I run with lipo buzzer. I tested my rustler on a long straight, and with the gyro and foams it went pretty straight. In the beginning is didnt went that straight so I centered the servo and did some steering trim, and eventually it worked better. Many ++++ to the e-sky ek2 gyro. I did alot of runs with full throttle for a couple of seconds and the front end stayed down, which makes me think the weight and lowering mod helps. I was amazed how cool the esc and motor was, even though I did 10+ speedruns without letting it cool, only checking temp. The motor temp was around 108F according to the IT temp, I dont know if the temp was actually accurate, but as you all know I have alloy tranny and heatsink and fan on motor. It was also pretty cool outside, around 11 C, which could explain the low temp.

    I dont know what speed I achieved, but it was really to fast for me since I have never done speedruns before. I was also a bit nervous I would crash. But it was fun. I dont think I achieved 70 mph though, the road was 800 feet long.

    I didnt recieve my alloy shock caps today, but when they arrive I will finish my ultrashock upgrade along with TiN shafts for the rear.

  18. #58
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    Nice bro...i love build threads and im glad to see your build is going good but i must ask, since the stock vxl claims to go 70mph "out the box" do you feel you bought too much to go 70mph?? i guess if it was me i woulda tried to do the 70mph stock lol and then make my upgrades i felt needed to due the 70mph but it is wat it is man. i think you would of made more sense if you would of did the 70mph with everything traxxas recommends to do 70mph and then made the adjustments accordingly..but more power to you man. and the fact you're doing it from Sweden is even better.

  19. #59
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    did you use all 800ft of road.
    slash revo vxl x4 rally x2 ped 2wd slash vxl rus

  20. #60
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    Update of today, I got my alloy shock caps and I mounted them on my ultrashocks, along with TiN shafts. I also put some spacers between the heatsink and fan, so I could move it more further to the motor allowing more air to cool.

    Shocks:




    Motor fan




    @ G-Rustler: these mods are not only reach 70 mph, but to get a more durable truck (RPM, alloy bulkhead, TiN shafts etc) that can reach high speeds putting less stress on the driver (gyro, foams, lowering mod), and not overheat (fan, heatsink, alloy tranny).

    @ turok: I didnt use all 800tf because at the end of the road is a gate, and I dont want to push it further.


    Take care

  21. #61
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    cool...we need some speed run vids bro...i wanna see this thing in action!

  22. #62
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    I dont think there will be any videos, I dont have a gps yet either. But who know, maybe later on. Thanks for your positive comments.

    Stay tuned

  23. #63
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    I used a stand-alone GPS to record the Max speed of the rustler. It seemed that lowering the suspension and the weight of the GPS were just fine for a speed run. It was geared at 31/76 with anaconda tires. No esc fan or motor heat sinks. I got it up to 62.2 MPH. If the lot was bigger I don't doubt I could have gotten to go faster. Also I was usuing a 4000 mah lipo. Its a fast car stock. I have no doubt that the monster your building will haul some butt (and effeciently with all the cooling stuff).

  24. #64
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. O.G.'s Avatar
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    Why does the esc kick off too soon? I have a lvc alarm and they're pretty loud but not at 800'. You might damage that lipo if it alarms at the far end of the road.

    Sent from the cockpit of my Jeep Wrangler
    My Black & Blue Rally is faster than your color...

  25. #65
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    Thats true, how ever the added weight from tire balancers in front and alloy bulk + gearbox, I will need even longer straight to hit 70. I dont know if the motor has enough torque to hit real 70 mph. Also I get voltage sag under heavy load, even though my battery is 5000mah and 45c, providing 225A, so I only got a couple of shots with newly charged battery. They say more weight doesnt affect top speed, well that could be true, how ever the system draws more with more weight I guess. I dont want to decrease the weight in front either, because im affraid the car will blow over. When speedrunning the front lifts a litte bit, but the tires is still in contact with the ground, which confirms the statement that 8-13 oz keeps the front down.

    I use 35/76 with foams, that I hope will compensate for the baloning with the anacondas and 31/76 gearing. Who know. Also these days it has been around 8-11 C, and according to different sources the lipo doesnt perform as good in these temperatures. Thats could be true, because when it was 8 C the battery was drained much faster then when it was around 11 C outside. The battery was also a bit hotter (around 27 C) due to pressing the trigger even more to compensate for the power loss, making it "self heating". This explains that outside temperature does effect. I also had the lipo in the trunk, which was colder than having it in the back seat, like I had last time I was running.

    @ OG: The esc is flawed with lvc enabled on 3s, a common problem. I never run till the buzzer beeps continiously. I stop running when the buzzer beeps while going full throttle, due to voltage sag, and usually the lipo is around 10.8-11.1V when that happens. Also I feel the rc beeing slower at lower voltages, due to the motor spinning fewer rpms so its no point speedruning any further.
    Last edited by ttThree; 06-04-2012 at 01:56 PM.

  26. #66
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    Update of today consisted of making a alloy plate between the bulkhead and the RPM bumper because I wanted it to be flat against the bulkhead.

    Before


    ..and after. Im going to change the screws to hex buttonheads soon.


    I also made a skidplate for the rear. I used 4mm aluminum sheet.








    No swami bar, but similar design with angled edge. Im also going to get longer screws tomorrow.





    Stay tuned
    Last edited by ttThree; 06-05-2012 at 04:50 PM.

  27. #67
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. AbSoLooT1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HighDollarRustler View Post
    You wasted a lot of time and money just to do 70. My friends and I all did it out of the box with a gear change and 3s LiPo.
    Ouch.. I highly disagree with this statement. Thats like saying my friends dad can beat up ur dad. If its your friends, it aint there. Also... He did it RIGHT, and 70mph mark, is a common "aim" because thats the level general tires blow out. So while ur "friends" can do 69.989889.. or 71.00 miles per hours, than go air born.... His can do 75 (for example) and stay planted. Not a waiste of money whats so ever, and has some skill in the build.

    Ttthree... I havent seen ya for very long, and have agree'd with lots of things uve said. Your build is something I totally agree with, and it looks like a speed runner. Really like some of the things uve done, and can see how your mind works. Very nice, and ignore said statement.

    As for the Bulkhead being a waiste of money statement before. I couldnt disagree more. Alum bulkheads are a must, and I have yet to break one. Only the screw that attaches it to the chassis and even STRC hardened steel pins, have broken before my STRC bulkhead. So ya no...


    ALot of the Youtube 100mphs run the Integy front bulkhead. They seem to hold up "okay" but I think the two piece bulkheads is def something to be careful with, and keep locktite on it for sure.


    Great build!!
    Last edited by AbSoLooT1; 06-05-2012 at 09:42 PM.
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  28. #68
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    I like the custom skidplate.

    Sent from the cockpit of my Jeep Wrangler
    My Black & Blue Rally is faster than your color...

  29. #69
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    Thanks for your comments,

    @ Absoloot: I really wanted a one piece bulkhead, but when I buy parts I take "accessibility" into consideration as well, that is how long it takes to get the part, whats the shipping fee, and how much does the item cost. The bulkhead was a bang for the buck since I got it for a reduced price. We have the same scenario with the integy tranny that im using, not the ideal, but for the price and shipping fee it was a good buy.

    @ OG: Im glad you liked the skid plate. Im not that much for alloy, but im trying to use the materials I have laying around to "save" a buck.

    Stay tuned.

  30. #70
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    really nice looking mods you have. Nevermind the skeptics, this hobby is what you make of it, your specific builds and how much or how little you want to change things. I personally cant leave things alone, I have to build "a bigger better mouse trap". All my cars have mods.

    Everyone has a particular build according to their area, interest, applilcation, research, wants, needs and expectations.

    You're doing what you want to do and I support that 100%! RAH RAH RAH!

    keep "wrenchin'"!

  31. #71
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    Hello, update of these days.

    I havent done much I just got some new screws for the front bumper, no black ones but hexes. I also change the spacers on the fan to silver ones, looks better than gold.




    I made a little plate of plastic so the antenna wire stays in place. Last time the stock antenna popped and the whole wire scraped the road, not good.


    This works for now, will get proper mounting soon.


    No real time shoots, but this is from yesterdays run.


    Why didnt I reach 70? Well that could be due to many factors, one could be my slipper clutch was to loose since I had it one turn from fully compressed. I have tighten it 1/4 from full now. It could also be the distance, I run on a 800 feet closed road, but on the end theres a fence so I have to slow down way early to not hit it. It could also be the extra weight from the tire weights, phone, alloy parts making it necessarily to have a longer straight. It could also be the gearing. I run 35/76 with jacos and I dont know if thats enough to hit 70. I could possibly gear it up, but then the acceleration will be even worse and a longer straight will be needed. It could also be my phones gps, it doesnt update fast enough to get a accurate reading of speed.

    Overall im pretty glad, at least 65+ mph which was the lowest I could accept with this setup.

    See you soon

    /tt3

  32. #72
    Marshal Dadx2mj's Avatar
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    You MIGHT be over geared. I have seen others try 35/76 and then go faster with 31/76 just because they could get up to speed faster so they did not run out of room trying to pull the taller gear.
    BlindMan Racing
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  33. #73
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    Well, good tip, maybe I try with a 33 pinion. These people you are refering to were they running jacos?

  34. #74
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    I don't know what the diameter is of the Jacos, but looking at theoretical speeds taking the low profile Jaco diameter, I doubt that 35/76 is overgeared. What Dad said might be worth to try tho.
    Nobody is born with experience.

  35. #75
    Marshal Dadx2mj's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ttThree View Post
    Well, good tip, maybe I try with a 33 pinion. These people you are refering to were they running jacos?
    I cant say for sure we are talking about different posts from different people over the years I have been on this forum. They kind of tend to bur together ya know. My point is that 31/76 seems to be the optimal gearing although some have had success pulling 35/76 more have done better on 31/76. I realize using foam tires eliminates ballooning so you may need a taller gear to make up for the loss of tire growth but it might be worth a try to find out for sure. A pinion only cost a few bucks.
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  36. #76
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    It may sound weird but there is a little to much weight small things would make a difference such as take of the shock guards excess.metal which can be replaced with plastic and stick to the proper gearing 31/76 you'll go very far.

  37. #77
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    The 2030 and 2050 are bigger than the LP ones. The reason I went wth 35t is because I read somewhere on this forum that the "ticket to 70" with jacos is "35/76" since they dont ballon. How ever its still unclear if this was with the regular jacos or the LP ones. I dont mention the battery because I hope I have enough juice (5000mah, 45C) so it must be above mentioned factors. I also read that you could gear up 4-5 teeth on the pinion using foams.

    The reason everything is getting more complex is because I have significantly more weight than a stock rustler and tires that doesnt ballo. Also my gearin is just a guess.

    But yeah, after my slipper is set correctly I will do some test running with 35t, 33t, and finaly 31t.

    Thanks for your time.

    Note: all runs was made with body attached.
    Last edited by ttThree; 06-14-2012 at 03:16 PM.

  38. #78
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    Contrary to what many think the added weight does not hurt top speed. What it does hurt is acceleration or how fast you can reach the top speed of the truck. Add weight plus taller gearing are both going to make it take a longer run with more room to reach the top speed the truck is capable of. The added weight will also effect how tall of a gear the truck can pull.
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  39. #79
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    736
    Yeah I have been told weight does not affect the top speed and that is correct. I think next runs are going to be made on a longer straight.
    Last edited by ttThree; 06-14-2012 at 03:21 PM.

  40. #80
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    UK
    Posts
    1,254
    are you really going for it while pulling away or trying to take it a little easy.
    slash revo vxl x4 rally x2 ped 2wd slash vxl rus

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