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  1. #1
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    RPM VXL Rustler, 70 mph setup

    Hello,

    Im going to make a Rustler VXL speedrun application, I will be running stock motor and esc, along with TQi transmiter and reciever. I aim on 65-70 mph with this one. This setup will mostly be stock, and thats enough for reaching the factorys claim of "70 mph".

    After alot of planning, I ordered all the parts I needed to make this happen, I had to order several items from different kind of shops. Manny hours was spent on planning and searching for parts and online dealers. But thats a part of the game.

    The first thing I did after getting my Rustler, was to strip it, so I could install the RPM parts.

    For the front I went with the rod ends, lower arms, caster blocks, and bearing carriers.


    I also installed the shock tower, got to say, some stock traxxas parts are really garbage and weak. I also mounted the bumper upside down, since its a common mod for speedrun Rustlers.


    I use 180 grams (~ 6.5 oz) of weight in the front, hopefully this, along with the lower suspension, will prevent the car from catching air and fly.


    After recieving my battery, I soon discovered that it wouldnt fit, as you can see its big.


    This gave me a good opportunity to mod the chassis a bit. The area marked with a black ink, I will dremel it out.




    Since im running a heatsink fan on the motor, I also have to cut a piece of the tranny cover. Its way cheaper than a alloy case, yet less effective.




    Since I didnt want to pay 20+ euros for a traxxas fan, I bought one 6V 30x30mm fan for 4 euros, and a female bec connector for 1 euro. I hope this will work.





    Stay tuned, more to come
    tt3

  2. #2
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    if your aiming for 65-70 mph you dont need all those weights and a fan... put a 3S lipo in there and go for it, this car can do that no problem... the car will not become airborn at those speeds

    are you using this for bashing or speed runs?
    Rustler VXL
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  3. #3
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    This will be my speedrunner only. I havent owned a Rustler before, how ever, several people claim you need weight and lowering mod, because the car catches air around 60 ish. The reason im running weigh and fan, is because i want consistent runs. According to some of the videos on youtube, and on the forums, people recomend around 6-7oz of weight for the vxl application. I rather have my car planted on the ground, even if i need a longer straight to reach the desired speed.

  4. #4
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    Nice work so far, should help with the parachute that will happen on 3s and those speeds. Keep it's posted on your progress!
    rusler vxl, rusler xl-5, jato 3.3, losi 5ive T

  5. #5
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    Just lowering the suspension will help to eliminate the flip over at those speed's. It is when you get into higher speed's you will need the weight. I'd try it without the lead first.
    *Proud Husband of United state's Air Force wife.*

  6. #6
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    Well, that may be the case, how ever I have seen videos with lowered rustlers and weigh in front, they still flipp at 50-60 mph. But that could be because they either mash the throttle, or the slipper clutch is to tight. But thanks any way for your input.

  7. #7
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    no weight really needed at that speed. what you really need is a front wing. and a running surface that is flat and clear of small stones. as a stone will flip the truck. also if the truck hits a dip in the road the wheels will pick up speed then when the car hits the road again it flips.
    slash revo vxl x4 rally x2 ped 2wd slash vxl rus

  8. #8
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. O.G.'s Avatar
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    What pinion/spur are going to use?

    Sent from the cockpit of my Jeep Wrangler
    My Black & Blue Rally is faster than your color...

  9. #9
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    Update of today, I cut out the plastic so I could fit the battery.





    I wont be using the stock mounting holes for the esc plate, since they are messed up, due to the mods.

    I also cut out some of the tranny case, so I could fit the heatsink and fan.




    Regarding the gearing I will be using 35/76, since im running jacos, that doesnt baloon. I hope that will be equivalent to anacondas on 31/76. And the front weight vs front wing..well all parts im using, are the ones that Draven and the speedjunkies are recomending. I dont know how the front wing will affect the car, and what angle the front wing should be to be effective. But I do know, a little bit of weight keeps the car planted, or thats what I have seen on videos.

  10. #10
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. O.G.'s Avatar
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    Sorry to clutter up the thread but why not go with an aluminum trans case? You can get 'em pretty cheap online. I prefer FLM but I got a GH for about $28 + shipping.

    on the thread.

    Sent from the cockpit of my Jeep Wrangler
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  11. #11
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    Because in europe its hard to find alloy trannys, therfore more expensive, a integy and flm cost like 45 euros and shipping of course, convert that into dollars. Other shops that do has alloy trannys have them out of stock, or backorder. Also you got to have a budget in everything you do. I would want alloy bulkhead and alloy tranny, but that would result in 65 euros without shipping, which is pretty much in my budget alone. I dont want to spend "too" much on a stock vlx system. If I would go with a castle 3800kv and esc, or any other high end system, then I could invest more, but then my goal would be to reach above 70 mph as well. That itself would cause other problems, and other parts to invest in. For example grp or ipanema wheels and 17 mm hex hubs (more expensive then jacos).
    Last edited by ttThree; 05-05-2012 at 10:39 PM.

  12. #12
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    Another update on my project. The last days I have been correcting the camber and toe in, for both front and rear. I dont have a camber tool, but a regular "L" shaped ruler can do the work as well.

    I also fitted some thin foam on the bottom, and on the wall, this will make the battery more "comfortable" in its new place.


    I also made some shock socks out of elastic textile material. These may not have the same functionality or looks as the "brand" ones, but they work. I also put some printed carbon fiber vinyl in some places, I think it looks nice.





    My next step will probably be to manufacture a new esc mounting plate, because I dont have any mounting holes any more. I also got to make the esc plate high enough, so I can slide in the long battery underneeth.

    /tt3

  13. #13
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. mike-susieq1's Avatar
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    where can you get those weights at ttThree? i need to pick those up but not sure who carries them.
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  14. #14
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    You can find them in tire shops, they come in a variety of weights. Also try ebay.

  15. #15
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. mike-susieq1's Avatar
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    what would i ask for at a tire shop or search (name) for on ebay?
    DEU 8:18 ESV

  16. #16
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. mike-susieq1's Avatar
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    found them on ebay thanks
    DEU 8:18 ESV

  17. #17
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    Right on. Love the pics, and some of your touches. I too added some felt to my battery tray. Love it. But if ur gonna get it dirty, ul want something u can replace. i got a 12inch x 12inch piece for 25 cents so I can get a bunch new ones, at pennies a piece and re-use one a bunch of times.

    Build, Bash, Clean, Repair, Repeat..

  18. #18
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    Thanks for the thread and pictures. I am about a month behind you. Have you considered putting in a Gyro? I know it is not necessary for 65 or 70 mph. But as soon as we make 70 mph I am sure we will be trying for 75 or 80. Are you going to use GPS for your speed tracking? Keep the pictures of the build coming and any test run information as you go along.

  19. #19
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    Who ever said u dont need weight for rustler i will strongly disagree with you, i put 3s and went 53mph half throttle, if i give a little more it catches air, no way you can get 70 without weight

  20. #20
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    Well, I will be using a gyro, the e-sky ek2 0704, unfortiunatly, the one I bought was broken, so I have to wait for a new one. Regarding the weights, I also think you will need around 6-7oz, and lower suspension, because as Agri says, the car will flip over around 50 mph.

    I will be using a gps to measure speed, but I wont get my hopes up too soon, because I havent found any long, wide, and straight road yet. But maybe later on when im finished, I will be able to do a good and valid run.

  21. #21
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    A while since last update, I havent done much, but I have put some stickers on the body shell. Im still waiting for some shop logo stickers, to put on the body.

    My body so far:




    The area marked in grey will be cut out for more cooling to the motor and esc.


    I have also put some sleeving on the cables, these will be secured with velcro.



    As mentioned before I got to make a new esc plate, and some kind of mounting for the esc fan. Right now my top priority is to solder trx connectors to the battery, which didnt went so well, because of "wrong" solder. 60/40 and 100w solder iron next to come.

    Im also waiting for a Integy alloy gear box to arrive, since it lowers the motor temps significantly, specially with a heatsink and fan. I found one for 37 euros with shipping, which is decent here in europe, considering they are hard to find, and cost like 45+ euros.

    What more...well im thinking about a alloy bulkhead as well, which is a common upgrade on speedrun builds, also stainless steel screw kit, since the stock screws are to "soft".

    Anyway, I have been browsing the web, and I found that a couple of NL dealers are selling alloy bulkhead and alloy tranny for 19 and 39 euros, they go under the name of "RHI", any people from netherlands that have experiance with this brand?





    /tt3
    Last edited by ttThree; 05-15-2012 at 07:37 PM.

  22. #22
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    You wasted a lot of time and money just to do 70. My friends and I all did it out of the box with a gear change and 3s LiPo.

  23. #23
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    Well, the rustler may reach 70 out of the box, how ever, its not consistant, which many people have proven. Also keep in mind, these upgrades are common ones that people do, regardles of setup really. If I would build a basher, I would still invest in more durable parts anyway.

    .....but will your friends rusty at hight speeds be as stable as a rusty with proper tyres, gyro, and other chassis upgrades? Will it hold up as good as a rusty with more durable parts? Will the motor and esc be overheating after a couple of runs, due to lack of cooling?

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by ttThree View Post
    Well, the rustler may reach 70 out of the box, how ever, its not consistant, which many people have proven. Also keep in mind, these upgrades are common ones that people do, regardles of setup really. If I would build a basher, I would still invest in more durable parts anyway.

    .....but will your friends rusty at hight speeds be as stable as a rusty with proper tyres, gyro, and other chassis upgrades? Will it hold up as good as a rusty with more durable parts? Will the motor and esc be overheating after a couple of runs, due to lack of cooling?
    I dont view your build as a waste of anything but I do think a box stock Rustler can run 70 mph on a consistent basis. What is not consistent is the user being able to set up and drive the truck at 70 mph.
    BlindMan Racing
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  25. #25
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    Well, its all about the user, how ever upgrading the rc will put less stress on the driver, for example using a gyro for keeping tha car straight, or using tyres that doesnt ballon which makes the car unstable....not to mention all the claims, that the car catches air around 50 mph with stock suspension height and no weight in front.

  26. #26
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    How high the front sits is part of the set up IMO,,,I have heard even Traxxas added weight to the front when they did their testing to hit the claimed 70 mph, again IMO part of the set up of the car.

    Like I said I dont see your build as a waste of anything. You dont have to justify building the car to your liking.
    BlindMan Racing
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  27. #27
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Petertje60's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ttThree View Post
    Im also waiting for a Integy alloy gear box to arrive, since it lowers the motor temps significantly, specially with a heatsink and fan. I found one for 37 euros with shipping, which is decent here in europe, considering they are hard to find, and cost like 45+ euros.

    What more...well im thinking about a alloy bulkhead as well, which is a common upgrade on speedrun builds, also stainless steel screw kit, since the stock screws are to "soft".

    Anyway, I have been browsing the web, and I found that a couple of NL dealers are selling alloy bulkhead and alloy tranny for 19 and 39 euros, they go under the name of "RHI", any people from netherlands that have experiance with this brand?





    /tt3
    Stay away from RHI. I had the bulkhead and alu bearing carriers from them and I broke them all in no time.
    Get STRC or Traxxas for alu parts if you want them.

    Integy gear box is not to bad at all. Worked well for quite a time in my Bandit and the little guy is still loving his one in its Rustler.
    Nobody is born with experience

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by ttThree View Post
    A while since last update, I havent done much, but I have put some stickers on the body shell. Im still waiting for some shop logo stickers, to put on the body.

    My body so far:




    The area marked in grey will be cut out for more cooling to the motor and esc.


    I have also put some sleeving on the cables, these will be secured with velcro.



    As mentioned before I got to make a new esc plate, and some kind of mounting for the esc fan. Right now my top priority is to solder trx connectors to the battery, which didnt went so well, because of "wrong" solder. 60/40 and 100w solder iron next to come.

    Im also waiting for a Integy alloy gear box to arrive, since it lowers the motor temps significantly, specially with a heatsink and fan. I found one for 37 euros with shipping, which is decent here in europe, considering they are hard to find, and cost like 45+ euros.

    What more...well im thinking about a alloy bulkhead as well, which is a common upgrade on speedrun builds, also stainless steel screw kit, since the stock screws are to "soft".

    Anyway, I have been browsing the web, and I found that a couple of NL dealers are selling alloy bulkhead and alloy tranny for 19 and 39 euros, they go under the name of "RHI", any people from netherlands that have experiance with this brand?





    /tt3
    I recommend not buying an aluminum bulkhead, it is overpriced, and anything that is going to break the plastic one, is going to bend an alum. one, especially one as lightweight as that (I have professional crashing experience)

  29. #29
    Marshal Dadx2mj's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by seedorfj View Post
    I recommend not buying an aluminum bulkhead, it is overpriced, and anything that is going to break the plastic one, is going to bend an alum. one, especially one as lightweight as that (I have professional crashing experience)
    That particular bulkhead may be over priced or prone to breaking but aluminum bulkheads in general are a good idea IMO. The bulkhead is the foundation the front end is built off of and you want it solid. I have been running an STRC bulkhead for years and never had an issue with one.
    BlindMan Racing
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  30. #30
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Petertje60's Avatar
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    If you keep the arms plastic, an alu bulkhead is something that will not be damaged that easy. I used alu arms when I broke mine. I never seen any bends in my STRC bulkhead.
    Nobody is born with experience

  31. #31
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    Okay, I use plastic arms, so I guess im going to fixa a alloy bulkhead, maybe not a strc, but another "decent" brand. Thanks for the info about the "RHI" parts, I wont be the bulkhead from them. How about integy or gh racing bulkhead? Im trying to find brands that can be bought in EU countries.

    Petertje60, you know where to find alloy bulkhead in EU? PM me, if thats allowed.

  32. #32
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    Update of today, I havent done much. After yesterdays total fail of soldering the TRX connectors to the wire I lost some of my motivation.

    Luckily I found some 60/40 solder, along with a 10 buck 100w soldering iron. I could now solder the wires to the connectors much better then before. I didnt think the solder made that big differance, but you learn something every day.

    Todays works consisted of soldering longer wires to the fan plus sleeving, and of course battery connectors.


    I only have one picture today, but thats my way to show that im still working on my build.

  33. #33
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    Update of today, my integy gearbox recieved by mail today. It is the IFA for slash 2wd. This wouldnt be my first choice, how ever I found it for a decent price considering it was shipped from europe.

    Comparison with the stock, but modified tranny


    I didnt took any pictures of the assembly, but here it is mounted:


    I sealed the openings with aluminum tape, to prevent small rocks entering the gear case, messing up the spur and pinion. I intend to use a rpm gear cover.


    Motor mounted, 90 degress to the left, this due to my heatsink, which I have to modify as well.




    This is the body with cut out ventilation holes, for increased cooling to esc and motor. Next im going to put some mesh grill.


    I still havent found any suitable material for the "custom" esc plate. I would want some kind of plastic, 4-5mm thick, so I could screw stuff to it. This is a brief drawing of what I have in mind.




    Tomorrow I will do some sleeving I think, I had to resleeve the wires to the fans. Im going to use shrink hose to secure the sleeving. I will also get some velcro, which i was suppose to do today.


    /tt3
    Last edited by ttThree; 05-21-2012 at 09:02 PM.

  34. #34
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    Loving your innovation man!

  35. #35
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    Thanks, I only made one update today, which was the velcro on the sleeving. Due to the motor beeing mounted 90 degress to the left, I cant have the sleeving all the way down on the cables, it wont be flexible enough.




    Stay tuned

  36. #36
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    i did this for my rustler conversion. but not sure if stock body will still fit.

    slash revo vxl x4 rally x2 ped 2wd slash vxl rus

  37. #37
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    Stock body is quite narrow so the esc has to be within the limits of the chassis. I think i mount the esc as stock, but with a different esc plate and new mounting holes. But thanks anyway for sharing.

  38. #38
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    it hangs over the chassis by 12mm i just tried the stock body and it fits. using a center mount will work but a fan may not fit well. when i used a 3 cell hard case lipo the esc fan was right up against the body.

    or for major air flow you could mount the esc on the shock mount with the heatsink pointing forwards. then build a air intake scoop.
    Last edited by turok; 05-22-2012 at 04:46 PM.
    slash revo vxl x4 rally x2 ped 2wd slash vxl rus

  39. #39
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    Yeah, ill use the stock place for esc, i have to use the parts from the battery expansion kit anyways. Also i have to mount my regular 30x30 fan some way, because i dont have the traxxas fan. I thinking about a fan mount.

  40. #40
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    I'm just saying, getting a Rustler to do 70mph isn't groundbreaking. I don't care if you can hold 70mph sustained for 1 minute, because you won't be able to see where the car is that far down the road.

    As far as consistent runs, whats the point, does Traxxas offer a buyback program if you can do 70mph 10x in a row?

    I'm just trying to save you the grief from when you hit one rock out on the road and it sends your Rustler flying into a curb or cartwheeling for 80 feet. It's definitely fun the blow money and just throw parts at a car though. I had fun building my brushless E-Maxx. Until a few weeks ago, when my friend hit it head on at 60mph with his Slash and blew the truck in half while it was just sitting in the parking lot.

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