New to Nitro and to Revos.

[ArmyAnt]

Recently, I bought a Revo, some R/C gear and an OFNA Hyper from some guy off the street. Everything about this guy said to walk away, but I was intrigued with the idea of nitro R/Cs.
So, I bought what he had and headed to the LHS. Turns out I am the proud owner of an early model Revo 2.5r. Also turns out that the engine was shot, the RX power pack was shot and the something about the differential is bad. Replaced the engine with the new 3.3, bought some new air filters, glow plugs, battery pack, EZ start motor (the original had a broken terminal), some fresh fuel, differential ring gear, pinion gear (5397X), ball bearings (5118 and 5119) and some fresh fuel.
I have everything replaced except, I have not been able to remove the rear end assembly. The LHS said the whole thing should slide off with the removal of a few screws. I dont want to perform unnecessary removal of parts but I cant figure it out.
I have already removed the driveshaft cover, four engine mount screws (underside), 2 shock screws that flank the fuel tank and the 2 screws directly below those (also flank the fuel tank on the underside).
But the thing wont budge. I have read a few other posts, but dont seem to find what Im looking for. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

[Thebullit]

You need to remove the part that the rear bumper is attached to in order to get to the a arm hinge pins I believe.

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[Double G]

Best to get the exploded views of your truck, model 5310.
If I recall, the front shock mount screws need to be removed, the two engine mount screws under the chassis, the rear body mount and then the screws on top holding the chassis to the bulkhead. Then it will slide out with a little wiggling.

[fallonguy]

You may have to remove the engine mount to get the rear bulkhead off the engine mount holds the rear bulkhead and some times keeps it from coming out.

[ArmyAnt]

Finally got it removed... what a bugger. I was able to disassemble the differential and rebuild it. Got it all put back together, gave it a good cleaning while I had the parts off.
How crucial are the CV boots... these are worn and torn. Should I replace them before I start the engine break-in?
Any crucial up-grade suggestions?

Thanks for all the help.

[96motorhead]

just remove every screw around the bulkhead. Easiest way to put it. The worlds not over if you take out some unneccessary screws.

[96motorhead]

Also your truck if the guy gave it to you has a blown up image in the white paper book.

[jordankeis]

the boots are not that big of a deal iv had 2 torn ones for a while now and iv gone threw it all and ya the slid part looks to get a little worn but they still work just fine only thing that dose suck is when u got truck apart they slide off but no bigy just kinda annoying just make sure u line them up the right way when putting back together they have little dots on both peices for u to match up

[ArmyAnt]

just make sure u line them up the right way when putting back together they have little dots on both peices for u to match up

I had no idea... have to go back and check to be sure I lined them up.

I tried starting it. Followed the instructions on the online manual (the guy didnt give me any literature) for a new engine...and nothing. Everything is fully charged, fresh batteries, fresh fuel... and nothing. I saw the fuel move through the line..
When it didnt start, in my over-zealousnes, I think I may have flooded it. I covered the exhaust and pressed down on the EZ Start a few times... now it doesnt attempt to turn over. Now What??? Man....my electric Stampede is soooo
much easier

[fallonguy]

Take the glow plug out and turn the truck upside down turn over with ez start to clear the engine also check the glow plug when it's out.

[ArmyAnt]

Glow plug is new... no fuel came out. Attempted to turn over with EZ start while upside down, it wouldnt turn over. Wont turn over period... upside down, right side up, glow plug in. What am I doing wrong??

[Double G]

Turn the flywheel to loosen it up. Since it is a new engine it is probably stuck at top dead center. Also squirt a little WD-40 into the engine and turn it over to loosen it up.

[Oomp]

If the engine is not turning, then all you are experiencing is the fact that the engine is stuck at top deaed center. Our engines have a lot of pinch, not to be confused with compression. The piston sleeve is tapered. As the piston is traveeling up, towards top dead center, the piston is being pinched tighter and tighter, until it reaches the top of it's stroke. This pinch aids in creating compression.

You need to rotate the flywheel backwards to break it free from being pinched. Continue rotating it backwards until you feel a little resistance, then stop. Once you do that, go get a hair dryer or heat gun. The interanl components of the engine expand and contract at different rates, so you have to try and loosen up the engine before starting it. Heat up the engine block, while moving the dryer around so as to not overheat it just in one spot. Using your temp gage, check the temp as you would normally. When it gets to about 150 -160 degrees, hit the starter. Continue doing this for about 10 tanks of fuel. After that you should nit need the hair dryer. The pinch will be there still, but the engine will be loosend up a little.

Reading over my post makes it seem like I can't spell. It is just my wireless keybord is hard to get used to. I am sitting on the couch typing away, and it is doing whatever it wants it seems. LOL

[ArmyAnt]

Thanks for all the help (misspellings and all . OK, now its turning over and it sounds like the engine is idling, but when I let go of the EZ start button or pull it out, the engine dies. Arrrghh????

[Thebullit]

You are going to have to tune it, also, you idle screw might not be adjusted correctly.


Just note that once you break it in, they arent normally this much of a pain to start every day. Trust me. As long as you maintain it anyway.

[ArmyAnt]

You are going to have to tune it, also, you idle screw might not be adjusted correctly.

Im not arguing with you "bullit"... but the way the manual reads, I should not adjust the factory settings to start the engine for the first time. The way I understand it... with fuel and fresh batteries in everything it should start right up. Knowing very little about these engines, I hesitant to start messing around with idle settings and make matters worse.
I guess thats why Im the newbie.....
I tried over and over today, the engine idles for a few seconds but the moment I remove the EZ start, it dies. I think Im gonna stop by the LHS and have them show me.

Frustrated!!!

[fallonguy]

It's ok to adjust the idle up if need. Some time when you run the first tank you can have problems keeping the engine running. Also it's a good idea to check the engine to see if it is really set to factory break in settings.

[ArmyAnt]

UPDATE...
I took my Revo to the LHS. The guys there adjusted the needles and it was up and running!!! Man, nitro is AWESOME!! Even though its not as fast as my Pede VXL, this is so much more fun. The sound of the engine, the smell of the exhaust...WOW.
I still have questions though:
It does not consistently fire up and idle at first... it takes several tries before it idles and it always requires me hitting the throttle just a little... is this normal during the break-in period?
How much oil/residue from the exhaust is normal?
Is it normal for the throttle to be sluggish during break-in? The Revo doesnt move until about half throttle.

Any thoughts???

[Jake C6R]

During break in the motor is running rich. As you continue breaking it in, you will start to lean the HSN. Once the engine loosens up a little, you lean it a bit and the temp goes up you will see a world of difference in how it runs. when break in is complete you can tune out that sluggish throttle response and it will accelerate very quickly and smoothly! How many tanks do you have through it now?

[ArmyAnt]

How many tanks do you have through it now?

3 tanks. What about the fuel?? Im using some orange colored fuel... 20%. Do the 3.3's seem to like other fuels?

[Jake C6R]

If it's orange it might by Byron's Race Gen II which is good. 20% is fine, especially for bashing.

[Oomp]

I am glad to see that you went to the LHS, and that they helped you out. Tuning the engine is really a hands on thing, and trying to explain it in text can be difficult, and a drawn out back and forth of questions and answers. Hearing the engine run is probably the most important aspect of tuning, the smoke trail being secondary, then the engine temperature.

As Jake said, right now your engine is running rich. Because it is running rich, a significant amount of fuel is going to be dripping from your exhaust, because it can't burn it all. As you begin to lean it out, the residue will lessen, but you will always see some residue regardless.

[ArmyAnt]

Are there body types that are better suited for bashing or for short course tracks? Asking because, Im looking at getting a Proline body for my Revo... its the early 70's Bronco style, but Im not sure if this is good for looks only or would suit short course tracks??? Any thoughts?

[ArmyAnt]

Anyone have preferences for body style for bashing and body styles for short courses?? Pro's & Con's for enclosed bodies.

[fallonguy]

Anyone have preferences for body style for bashing and body styles for short courses?? Pro's & Con's for enclosed bodies.

I have the pro line Baja bug body it's great because most of the time if you roll it it ends up on the wheels

[jordankeis]

i was thinking of geting that body my lhs has it in stock but one thing i thought was wouldnt it get to hot with motor inside like that with no air flow or did ya cut ur windows out?

[fallonguy]

i was thinking of geting that body my lhs has it in stock but one thing i thought was wouldnt it get to hot with motor inside like that with no air flow or did ya cut ur windows out?

I cut a hole on the front and rear windows with a hole saw. Don't have any over heating problems.

[ArmyAnt]

Heating issues is one of the things I considered when thinking about the Proline Bronco body...
Did you cut holes for the air filter as well?

[dh3.3]

Heating issues is one of the things I considered when thinking about the Proline Bronco body...
Did you cut holes for the air filter as well?

I just cut out the windshield in front of the engine and the rear windshield behind the engine and it seems to get lots of air flow.

[dh3.3]

I have the pro line Baja bug body it's great because most of the time if you roll it it ends up on the wheels

i have been looking at that body. do you know if it fits the Revo with a wing installed?