my slash turns better one way than it does the other.do the aftermarket suspension a arms resolve the wheelbase issue that the truck is designed with?
my slash turns better one way than it does the other.do the aftermarket suspension a arms resolve the wheelbase issue that the truck is designed with?
What is the wheelbase issue you are referring to? My wheelbase is the same from side to side?
LETS GO PENS!!!!
Well I noticed a little turning difference on my Slash VXL also. I emailed traxxas customer support they had me reprogram the steering end points, the I reprogrammd the receiver to the transmitter. I still noticed it doesn't turn the same, but yesterday I noticed on front control arm sits level with the chasis while the other is extended downward, the shock doesn't look bent neither do any of the other components. I am thinking maybe shock oil, or shock arm maybe tweaked.
i will take apart the front end and take a closer look at ur guys suggestions.I never noticed until my first time at the race track last night,seemed like last night with the tires on it was about 1/4 difference and in drag racing racers will do that to their full size rides to aid it for straight line performance.
Look for bent steering and suspension pins...
A differential or bearing problem could also cause it.
LETS GO PENS!!!!
My turning radius is the same left and right. Try re-centering your steering servo. Let me know if you need help with it.
My Black & Blue Rally is faster than your color...
OG is recentering the same as setting the end points? If it isnt fire away the instructions! LOL
I think you hit something and the servo saver slipped a little bit. That's what it's designed to do in a front impact.
Turn off all power, unplug battery. Disconnect steering arms at the servo by pulling off the servo saver from the servo. Reconnect power, turn on radio and the servo will center itself. At this point, actuate the servo by steering the car to make sure it sounds ok, not too loud or any grinding noises.
Reconnect servo saver and you are centered. Adjust steering trim and you should be back to normal. End points shouldn't need to be adjusted but you can check those too.
Last edited by O.G.; 05-02-2012 at 08:52 AM.
My Black & Blue Rally is faster than your color...
My problem was that if i turn left 100% and let go the wheel, it only turns to neutral to about 85% and keeps making noises, same goes to right side, turn right all the way, then let the wheel go and it turn to neutral only about 85% and keeps making noises, I DON'T KNOW WHAT TO DO, its stupid because when i drive, i would turn and let the wheel go thinking that my car will drive straight, but no, i have to control my steering at all the time.
I tried many different servos only all of them do the same thing, its not a servo problem in my case, but then i dont know what could possibly cause this problem
If recentering the servo doesn't fix the problem, then the servo gears may be bad. I've replaced the gears on a Traxxas servo and that did the trick for a while but then they went bad again and I wound up buying a new servo.
My Black & Blue Rally is faster than your color...
the wheel on your controller may be jammed up if you have another controller try using that one.
Yeah i had jammed control wheel on the TQ took just one of them oversights i guess, So took Tx apart and did a bit of resoldering too now its great on my drift car happens everytime i take something apart I never like the solder jobs.
Last edited by wayke; 05-02-2012 at 05:33 PM.
Slash, DynaStorm, Sakura S, MERV, E-firestorm
Wheel was just a bit jammed up in center position I resolder when i take apart just a Habbit see things i don't like the style mostly as pretty much all things are mass produced can get a better job in
When buttons not working or slow response because of DRY joints intermittent connections or button has something stuck inside Glue or resin some TIMES BEER Old beer looks like honey servicing cash registers and POS systems you like ROACHES Registers scales Money counters all these things are loved By INSECTS Roaches love electronic scales nice warm place to hide mostly 1 tiny PCB with the
Load cell in the center 2" of dead roach is disgusting smell Then in Registers in night clubs etc beer drips into the Til into print area falls into machine builds up and up and up LOOKS like AMBER honey sticky and Bugs can't escape
Butchers shops that use Electronic scales look at the Display closely you will see roach legs etc stuck inside the Illuminated Panel.
Opened a Register at a Fruitshop and mice had made a Nest out of the Main board PCB housing for the Printer connector OPENED up and a MOUSE RAN UP MY ARM JUMPED OFF MY BACK into the shop Customers were there it was LIKE OMG What i can't unsee this.
Slash, DynaStorm, Sakura S, MERV, E-firestorm
Dont drink while running your rc's. Helps keep the beer out of the controller...
Oh, and no roaches in my house, or in my rc's
What in the flurb are you talking about?
They can be found at most hobby shops. Be aware though, if you're still using a Traxxas 2075 or other plastic-geared servo, the Kimbrough won't "save" it. The spring is so strong, you'll likely just shear the output shaft off of the servo itself. I've replaced the gears in three 2075 servos because of that exact occurrence.
Then the servo saver is inside the bell crank. There is no need for the kimborough saver.
Turn on the truck, center the steering trim knob to zero. the arm on the servo, and the bell cranks should be centered, along with the wheels. If the wheels are not centered, start with the arm on the servo and find which part is outta whack and not centered, and center it. If its the servo arm, unscrew it and pop it off and re install so that it is as centered as possible. Adjust your trim knob so that the servo arm is exactly centered. Then check the if the wheels are centered. If not go to the threaded link, and adjust it so the bell crank is centered. If the wheels still are not straight, adjust the steering links until the wheels are straight.
So I recentered the servo and it really improved the steering. I will have to play with the adjustments a little more. I am getting more comfortable adjusting things on the truck. The advice you guys give on this forum is greta thank you all.
Glad its all worked out!
LETS GO PENS!!!!
Sweet news... Never be afraid to ask and ask again til you get it fixed.
Sent from the cockpit of my Jeep Wrangler
My Black & Blue Rally is faster than your color...
So I go on the RPM Website originally to order a bearing blaster, then I start thinking why pay shipping for only one item so I added: Toe in guage, Monster camber guage, and a ride height guage. I though the bearing blaster might be lonely in the shipping box. Plus seeing as the wife thinks my new hobby is silly, why would I deal with her complaining over only one item might as well add three more items.****
My Black & Blue Rally is faster than your color...
So today myself and my children and my friend and his son were running our trucks, so mine was running great until I think i sufered some interference and my truck hit the curb full throttle, so it looks like I broke what would be the equivalent of a front bearing carrier, the pin that holds this piece is bent and another piece that runs to the bell crank might be tweaked. I have a set of the front carrier replacemenr parts but I don't think I have the new pin.
Look into alum c-blocks. They will help support the carrier assembly better than the plastic c-blocks.
LETS GO PENS!!!!
Well you can imagine the day I came home with two Slash's for the kids how happy she was, or the week later when two VXL's showed up UPS at our front door! lol She will yell and I will usually egg her on by saying something that will set her off yet make her laugh, the day I brought the first two trucks she was flipping out I looked at her and said "is that how you talkin to daddy"? When my friends truck and mine were delivered, which caused flip out #2 I looked at her and said"respect my gangster, I buy whips in pairs like shoes".
No, to a part stronger and or more flexible than the king pins and plastic c-blocks=more durable. The car will take a harder hit before breaking.
The problem in the debate you mention is when you use mostly, or all aluminum. If nothing can flex or "give" the alum bends, or the few plastic parts left will break. The only alum parts I use now are ft bulks, alum trans, and alum c-blocks. All the other parts are plastic.
I use rpm bearing carriers and alum c-blocks, and very very rarely break anything. I have bent a couple links in a few years, but thats all. If that is where I have transferred my weakness to, then I like it where it is.
Last edited by rag6; 05-17-2012 at 10:11 AM.
LETS GO PENS!!!!
Just a little update: last sunday I went to Larrys Performance RC on a parts run, I picked up RPM C-Blocks, then I figured it may be a good idea to buy some steering arms or tie rods whatever the turnbuckle wrench can be used to adjust on the front end. I bought the four arms in aluminum because it was about a dollar more than buying the non aluminum, so to get all 4 for a dollar more, and they were blue! So tonight I get to tearing the front end apart to replace the C-Blocks with RPM Blockes and install my aluminum upgrades, as I am removing the vertical pin going through the block i noticed it is rather tweaked, on the oppsite side it was the horizontal pin that was tweaked luckily I bought a suspension pin set a while back. Now all i have to do is figure out how to use my new alignment guages!
Check those steering kingpins often when using the rpm c-blocks...
LETS GO PENS!!!!
Pop out ?? much.
Slash, DynaStorm, Sakura S, MERV, E-firestorm