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Thread: My FPV Summit

  1. #81
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jimmie Neutron's Avatar
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    What about bending it for clearance?
    Something like a Z bend...
    Whatever it is I just said... I could be wrong.

  2. #82
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    Haha, right after I posted it and looked at the PICTURE, I realized that's all I needed, but thanks!





    I'm having hard disk issues right now (120gb solid state) it's having read issues, keeps blue screening, and removing my bootmgr, VERY annoying, I have been distracted for the past hour or so with it.

  3. #83
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jimmie Neutron's Avatar
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    Use a bigger hammer.

    Whatever it is I just said... I could be wrong.

  4. #84
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    So I've done a test, and I'm very pleased! It's too bad it's dark out other wise I'd take this for a spin on the grass. This SECOND mount is MUCH better, however the tilt up and down joint/hinges ... I drilled the wrong size hole, so it's loose. Not a big deal though as you can see in this video.


  5. #85
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    ehhh you have lights, go for it

    test the gopro 2s night sight
    What's a coffee if it aint Irish

  6. #86
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    Hahah YEA OKAY I have LED's not lights :P Either way... instead of going to bed I drove outside! Rendering the video, once it's uploaded I'll get it up here - shows how bloody DIFFICULT it will be to drive at night. Also, kinda freaky! Reminds me of those safari cams - you can't see anything but black, and some grass, spoooooky.


    ****

    I'm off to bed, but here's the link - thanks for the idea, it was awesome!

    Last edited by krallopian; 05-11-2012 at 02:01 AM. Reason: added video link

  7. #87
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    Niice I wanted to see how it did with the one set of lights. The roof LEDs should light the path up pretty nice, being up higher and all but holy that's dark out, I forgot there's no street lights near your place lol and a lot of open space.

    You can tell though that once something's in front of it, the LEDs light it up and the gopro2 catches it no problem. Imagine with the roof LED kit..


    Last edited by TQi; 05-11-2012 at 02:35 AM. Reason: dancing man just.. would not dance.
    What's a coffee if it aint Irish

  8. #88
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    sadly the roof lights don't seem to make much if a difference. they are angled to the same spot, oh well

  9. #89
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    Noooo! dancing man fails!
    Yeah oh well it seems to be good enough as is, you just have a lot of open yardage.
    Last edited by TQi; 05-11-2012 at 02:42 AM.
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  10. #90
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    .. much better! Still slightly shakey but no-where NEAR as bad, and will make it FAR more controllable for FPV at speeds greater than 2km/h.


  11. #91
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    So I took yesterday off working on this thing.

    Today I gathered all I need to make this:



    Three servos, four switches.

    Basically I'm going to have the switches hooked up to LED's on the dash. FRONT DIFF, REAR DIFF, GEAR1/GEAR2.

    The left and right servos are diffs, the center one is gear one or two.

    This will be mounted where the stock receiver box is located. I'm moving the receiver to the body to give me a bit more range (putting it more than twice as high as it is from the factory) and it will be mounted beside the second receiver. I will have two antennas coming up through the hood of the Jeep body.

    These are hitech hs-55 servos (pretty strong little guys) and they were $10 each. I paid $10 for a bag full of these push buttons too. The big project box was purchased today, and the little one is what's left over from my joystick project back when I did the 10-channel remote.

  12. #92
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    Nice I was waiting for an update, your build's getting really complex man lol I seen that picture and I was like "what the heck is he doing now.."

    That's a little over the top lol but it's awesome.

    Turns out I'm getting really crappy hours at work eh, for the next 3 weeks at least, it's lookin like I'm gunna have to get the summit by itself first, or the gopro2/fpv gear by itself

    oh well, what do you think I should get man?
    What's a coffee if it aint Irish

  13. #93
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    if im not mistaken you have a 1:16? the gopro is too big for it imo so get the summit!

    as for COMPLEX uh yiyi im trying to keep it simple! some servos and buttons is as simple as you can get! i was going to just make a micrcontroller but wanted to keep this simple so that anyone could do it!

  14. #94
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    Yeah I know but uh yi yi lol!, I'm so broke. Sorry I laugh everytime you put "uh yi yi" I had to steel it once.

    I'll get all the stuff I need sometime this year trust me, I think I'm gunna get the gopro2 first before anything because I'm going to barrie for a 7 week program with the Canadian forces in July (paid) then we'll see if I want to take on a career there. After that I'll be able to buy everything else I don't get now.

    Anyways, too complicated for me maan, even the FPV stuff is going to be a bit of a trip to set up, once I can afford it that is.


    What's a coffee if it aint Irish

  15. #95
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    So tons of work today... only to find that those $10 servos are basically $10 servos........... what junk!

    BUZZZZZZZ BZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ BZZZZ BZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ all day long, not good.

    So I guess now I'm going to just buy 3 more receiver switches $15/pop though what a drag.

    SO what I HAVE done though is made a "connector box" out of my old 27mhz receiver box:

    You can see where all the on-board servos and esc plug in: Steering, Steering, Throttle/Esc, Diff 1, Diff 2, Transmission, body leds.

    They get turned in to 10 wires: ESC signal, positive, negative, on-board led positive, negative, then 1 wire per servo for the signal: Tranny, Diff1, Diff2, St1, St2 = 5 wires plus the five from the esc (3) and onboard led (2)

    Then that connects to a circuit board I put together as just a splitter/junction body mounted unit, that then breaks off in to the receiver. This way the Summit receiver is mounted on the BODY instead allowing me to keep the antenna mounted high, and not have to take it off everytime I take the body off.



    And this is where it sits now - frustrated because these darned servos are going to kill themselves just sitting there at idle. Again, I'll replace the servos and push buttons with simple rx switches from rclights.



    *sigh*

  16. #96
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    I had a feeling those servos were too good to be true.. or too cheap to be any good



    I'm starting to feel like some kind of fan boy lol but ^^ that is a crafty/awesome idea

    what's next after you switch the servos and pushbuttons out?
    (please be an FPV demonstration on youtube )
    What's a coffee if it aint Irish

  17. #97
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    Thanks TQi, it's the one part that is surviving this. It's a body/chassis rx/servo disconnect.

    It's just a shame I already completely cut the project box for use with the servos. Ah well, can still use it - it just won't be as purdy.

    I've had to order those receiver switches they only have one in stock - I hate waiting! I guess today I'll get everything wired up with what I have, make it all work, then worry about the rest of the things when the parts come in.

    The servos were ONLY to control LED's anyway so there's no real function loss without them.

  18. #98
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    Oh that's good then
    What's a coffee if it aint Irish

  19. #99
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    That's what she said.

    Everything I've done so far, the 10-channel remote, FPV mount, body work etc... could all be done within a day. I'm taking my time because I've had so many projects in the past where I've just jumped in to it and started sawing, cutting, soldering, etc.. and the next day thought, "EUGH WHY DIDN'T I THINK OF THIS!? IT'S SO OBVIOUS... now it's ruined" and I certainly don't want that to be the case with this project.

    Currently I have the disconnect worked out and mounted securely to the body, but the connectors still need to be mounted properly (they are just placed in a hole, so I can't actually push or pull on them yet) and the antenna is just hanging loose.

    I have a great antenna body mount, but I need TWO and I'm stuck on, "should I just drill a hole for this one, and hope I get another one somewhere, or should I just wait until I have both?" heh because BOTH won't happen until Thursday next week.

    So instead I find myself on the facebook and here hitting refresh, refresh, refresh.

  20. #100
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    "that's what she said" ..

    hahah yeah I know what you mean about the refresh button
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  21. #101
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    A sneak peak of what I'm working on:


  22. #102
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    Looks like in order to make this work NICELY I'm going to need to buy a second exo-cage to get matching plastic.

    I bought some random tierods and toelinks from some company and hoped they would work well, they KIND of do (seen on the windshield) but they are certainly "out of place" ... we'll see when I can find a second exo-cage. For now I'm going to just leave it the old way - blue roll bars - until I get myself stocked up.


  23. #103
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    Ssssssssssssoooo, I woke up this morning and thought, "... hanger! HANGERS are the right diameter and cheap cheap cheap!!"

    So I went out to the dollar store, and - figures - for TWO dollars each, I bought packs of black hangers. Now they are dollar-store hangers, so it's about as lousy as plastic can get, but because this thing is more for looks than it is functionality, I'm not too concerned. If I had a big heavy truck and knew I was going to wipe out at 20mph, then I'd be concerned.

    Either way here's what I bought:



    Cut a piece off, heated and bent it, looks to be very bendable with heat!


    Tried to make my first piece of a roll cage:


    Looks like it I can do this!



    The issue though is that in most of the hanger it's hollow, AND each hanger seems to have a different amount of hollow. Some places it's thick other places it's easy to snap. Luckily I bought tons of hangers haha. BECAUSE of the hollow differences, some bends will look great, where others won't look so good because it'll melt in on itself.

    Now I just need to go find some small enough hardware - going to screw this all together - and here's hoping for black screws!

    Oh and here's how I'm planning on making it look:



    This shows screw positions, and the coloured version shows the pieces I will cut:

    Last edited by krallopian; 05-18-2012 at 03:50 PM. Reason: Added roll bar pic

  24. #104
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    So after a night of driving myself crazy, I've come up with a solution:



    First I tried just screwing it together, and it was good but the screws I have on hand are too thick and so it snapped rather easily. THEN I realized I can just MELT them together! It's tricky to do, but if you can manage to line them up it's a SOLID bond. BUT THEN getting them LINED UP was too much difficulty across the entire cage - one mess up and you ruin the whole thing - because if you mess up once, you can't remelt it there's something in the chemistry of the plastic that doesn't allow it to bond anymore.

    SO NOW I'm going to MELT IT gently... AND tap/screw it. I will need at least 12mm+ screws to provide strength IN to the rods, but I have a feeling this is alllllll going to work out well.

    I must have spent 10 hours last night after countless, "@!(*&!@(* FORGET THIS IT ISN'T WORKING!!!!!!!!!! ........ wait what if I triiiiied THIS" haha.

    ANYWAY I'm posting all this in hopes that SOMEONE else will get this idea and be able to do it! All you need is cheap hangers, something to cut them with, and something to heat them up with! I'm using a heat gun to heat, and wirestrippers to cut.

  25. #105
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    I wonder if some expanding foam would help with the hollowness of the hangers? It may provide a little bit of sturdiness to them... I dunno, just thinkin' out loud. You're much more creative (and patient) than I, so I'm sure you'll come up with something.

    Cool build though, been following throughout the process.
    Summit w/ TQi
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  26. #106
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    Thanks for the thought, I've been wondering what I can use, but the issue is simply: This plastic is just not strong enough. Putting something inside the hollow parts would heat up differently and stress the pipe and cause blistering/bubbles.

    The original hanger, pretty strong! As in very strong, and strong enough to use UNTIL you apply heat. You need to apply enough heat to basically have the plastic DRIPPING otherwise it doesn't bond, but by then it's lost it's shape or deformed another part.

    It looks like as interesting as this could have been, cheap dollar-store hangers are NOT good enough. SUCH a let down, especially after spending another 2 hours experimenting. Shock cooling doesn't help (dunking it in cold water) and letting it cool down by itself seems to have the best outcome. I've made a few triangles and braces, and the strength is GREATLY increased, but the problem there is that as soon as ONE thing goes, it'll allow everything else to go making it impossible to fix.

    Welding metal is apparently the best solution - go figure. I have a propane torch somewhere and can pick up some copper tubing, I just.... eugh it's so "already done" that it's not appealing.

  27. #107
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    Somebody say something nice.

    My car is in pieces, after this hanger ordeal I can't get back in to it. I find myself playing Battlefield 3 all day instead of working on/finishing the car!

  28. #108
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    Quote Originally Posted by krallopian View Post
    Somebody say something nice.

    My car is in pieces, after this hanger ordeal I can't get back in to it. I find myself playing Battlefield 3 all day instead of working on/finishing the car!
    You're doing great work but maybe it's time to take a break. Let it come back to you.

  29. #109
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    Krallopian,

    Great job on your FPV Summit. Your development method and technique are first rate!! Your temporary setbacks pale to your novel solutions and practical workarounds. From my experience as a troubleshooter I can readily see that you too enjoy resolving complex issues. I have thoroughly enjoyed each step in the metamorphosis of your Summit. I must say too I've enjoyed the challenges/setbacks too, but only in anticipation of you elegant solutions.

    If i may be so bold (and you've so much as explained), you have a material issue with these hangers. If you plan to stick with the plastic exocage I suggest a better material. Delrin, nylon, plexiglas, HDPE, PVC, cpvc, and other plastic rods are readily available from suppliers. One of these would certainly be a better product for your application. Google "plastic rod stock", if you haven't already

    Take a breath and relax, don't let you hobby become work!! Maxi single is right, it will come back, and we'll all be here waiting to think, "WOW, that's cool!!". Hey, we know you will, it's got to go back together so you can play

    Best regards, Mayberry Kid

  30. #110
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    What Mayberry said x2 if it went easy
    The satisfaction would be less rewarding. I/we are patient we can wait
    It is after all worth waiting for


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  31. #111
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    Hahahah I'm laughin like fool reading these, thanks a lot! I might have had a drink too many last night when I posted that, but I really appreciate the feedback. I think I've said this before, but I realize that what I seem to enjoy most (other than the complex challenges as you eloquently put it) is putting it on display hoping, "NOW when someone sees this, THEY will be able to feel more confident in doing it themselves!" I love doing things, and showing the possibilities, awaiting the, "wow cool, I'm looking forward to doing that myself!"

    So after googling "Plastic Rod Stock" I found there are so many options out there, all of which are to be ordered that's why I stuck with the hangers. I'm sure I can go somewhere and find higher quality hangers, but I want to get away from this hitch where I'm stuck on the hanger idea haha. Next time I'm at the hobbyshop I'll see what materials they have on-hand. The issue is THAT hobbyshop is 2 hours away.

    Thanks again for the kind words, brought me right back up! =)

  32. #112
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    hahah you're doing excellent man, no rush

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  33. #113
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    SO, finally back to it.

    I've rebuilt the body/chassis connector:



    It's a fragile mess:



    The purpose of this is to allow me to have the radio receiver on the BODY up high, instead of down on the chassis. I have my 10-channel remote to control the car's steering, throttle, differentials and transmission, then control the pan and tilt of the camera, and turn the chassis lights on or the roof lights on. Because I am using a second receiver to control the lights, I Needed to have a disconnect for the chassis lights to the body - where the RX is mounted - and of course for all the onboard things on the chassis like the steering, diffs etc...

    SO here's what the box does:



    It takes the ribbon cable from the chassis via ten wires - diff 1 signal, diff 2 signal, transmission signal, steering one signal, steering two signal, ESC signal/Throttle, ESC power + and -, and then two leads for the chassis led's = 10 wires. Nice and neat in a ribbon cable.

    THEN from the body connector it splits them back out to standard servo style connectors to the RX, but then also splits off to another board with four other connectors: Diff 1, Diff 2, Transmission & steering.

    The extra steering channel is to steer an actual steering wheel on the dashboard. The other three are for LED's. As I showed in a previous post I have a 7-segment LED for gear 1 or 2. I will have two led's for the diff as well, either 2 separate leds or another 7-segment that reads "F" and "A" for front diff, or ALL locked. We'll see.

    Either way, it's coming together, I just forgot to order a gear replacement set for my darned broken front diff servo!!

    ONCE this is done, I'm basically good to go! The roll bar idea is messing me up though, I started with the Summit exo cage, then bought hangers, then today bought 10 feet of black coated brake line, but it's SOOO difficult to bend, and extremely difficult to drill, so I'm putting the exo-cage idea on hold for now.

    Once this is all up and running though, next op is my base station! It's going to be pretty sweet

  34. #114
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    I love this build!
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  35. #115
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    Thanks a lot snowslider!!

    So I've cleaned up the wiring, mounted everything and labelled it all up:

    Here's the box I'm using, everything stuffed in:


    Here's how it sits all closed up: (you can see the steering wheel servo, the three LED controllers, the antenna and the chassis led plug)


    Here's the new labels - poor quality didn't know until after I took it:


    Here's a close up of the Chassis Connector Box:


    Here's a close up of the Body Connector Box:




    Here's how it is connected underneath - the left is the chassis connection box, with the cable going up to the underside of the jeep's hood, where the body connection box is mounted via mushroom tape:



    It's incredible, the labels look pretty shotty in these pics, but in person it looks clean - besides you never look this close at it anyway haha.

    NEXT UP, make the steering wheel work, get the LED's to work, mount the video transmitter and pan/tilt receiver (the TQi receiver) and 3s lipo to power the leds, pan/tilt and video transmitter.

    Then.......... videos of onboard fpv fun!
    Last edited by krallopian; 06-02-2012 at 05:32 PM. Reason: Added last pic

  36. #116
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    I bought a new Hitec HS-82MG to use as the steering wheel servo, buuuuuuuut it doesn't allow for a 180 mod very easily, so I took the HS-85MG from my mini E-Revo and swapped the two, I don't have any 2k resistors so I used two 4k's in parallel to make a 2k, buuut there wasn't enough room inside the case so I have them on the outside.

    Point is, now I have a 180 steering wheel servo! It'd have nice to get it to 360 but the pot only rotates a maximum of 190 or so, so I kept it safe.

    It's possible to make any servo just continuously rotate left or right until you let go of the joystick, BUT it won't auto center and for a steering wheel, that just doesn't work.


  37. #117
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    You sir,are not just slipty slapitying this together.very nice!!!!when this is done you may want to hide.....lol "Going to have to do a tutorial of sorts"or your in box will blow up with questions and requests lol.if I read the thread enough times I may get through step one... Lol



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  38. #118
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    Hahaha, nah I was going to just slap it all together, trust me I wanted to! But as soon as I started sinking more and more cash in to it I realized, "I......... should just do this right the first time."

    I'll certainly put together a quick "how to" of sorts when it's all done if there is interest in one.

    *cheers!

  39. #119
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    Instead of buying some $20 parts from servo websites to make a shaft inline with the servo spline, I simply:

    Took a servo horn, cut the ends off so I just have the spine, took a small screw filed it down put it threw the hole facing AWAY from the servo, in to a stand off, and placed the spline on to the servo. Bam! Now I have a shaft coming off the servo allowing this:



    Here's a shot from underneath showing just the round part of the servo horn sticking through the dash. Shhhuper shimple.


  40. #120
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    For motivation, I don't know if your married or not, but there is a guy who picked up a HOT girl on the beach with a summit like yours.

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