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Thread: My FPV Summit

  1. #481
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    Nice, I wonder what kind of gearing that motor can handle

    I'm pretty stoked to see what that 3D printer can do too
    What's a coffee if it aint Irish

  2. #482
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    So as luck would have it. This 3D Printer has a 4-week lead time (better than everyone elses eight week time) plus another week to ship, basically putting me in to April before I even get it and get a test print off to know if what I want to/will do will work!

    I've been secretly hoping to have this all up and running by the end of April as that would be the 1-year mark for this build.

    In other news, this 2350kv and MMP setup is so awesome still haha!

  3. #483
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    I received the walkie talkies today! They're very good quality, super loud and clear and tiny!

    Look at their size:



    Already ripped it open and figured out how I'll be mounting it all. As soon as power is applied it turns on - when you insert the battery it just automatically turns on. So all I have to do is supply 1s lipo worth of power to it and it'll be good to go! That makes it super easy to make a POWER ON switch on my base station, and super easy to just turn it on when mounted to the car itself.

  4. #484
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    I've completed a range of radio interference tests today.

    These walkie talkies are VHF-UHF at 2 watts. That's pretty powerful, especially around my 100mw vehicle transmitters! (20x more power)

    So when transmitting, the walkies need to be no closer than 2" from any other transmit device. Pretty darned good if you ask me! I was expecting a FOOT or more away. When I transmit and wave the walkie antenna right past the vehicle receiver on the car, you get TINY amounts of servo noise, no solid glitches just very subtle buzzing. I was expecting them to go haywire!

    If I wave it over the transmitter antenna, I get no interference at all. If I wave it over the main board of the transmitter, only in one very small area do I get buzzing on the car.

    So all in all, it's pretty darned worry-free now!

    In other news,

    I've ordered some nice power switches for the car itself. I'm going to have two power switches: ESC/MOTOR on, and FPV/RADIO on.

    The esc and motor is the high power stuff, just replacing the current esc switch.
    The fpv and radio gear is everything else on the car - 3s lipo that will power all the becs and cameras and servos etc..

    I also ordered a castle motor blower, the one I have is kinda ugly.. and blue.. but then after receiving "You won the bid!" I noticed it's for a motor 6mm smaller than mine, here's hoping that plastic flexes!

    And I'm sure nobody believes I am going to make this ground station anymore, but I've made MORE changes just last night, completely removing the charger from the system. It was a big step, and I've really tried to keep it in the ground station. But after countless changes, it's just not feasible to have it in the system anymore.



    Where the charger used to be is now the AUXILIARY (turns out I've been spelling it wrong, Auxillary) and WalkieTalkie section. The programming ports are now inside the case where the Auxiliary used to be.

    Ever since changing the design around to have the controls within the LID of the case, having all these exterior panels just didn't add up to looking good anymore.

    The charger will be mounted within my battery box that houses the two 5000mah lipos that power the whole system. Whether I integrate it in to that or not is yet to be seen.

    The picture above will no doubt change again before final draft, but I'm sure if anyone is still following this... you can agree it's better this way!


    ** Edit, I've already changed it up:

    Last edited by krallopian; 02-21-2013 at 12:00 PM.

  5. #485
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. JimmyNeutron's Avatar
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    I was just thinking.... would there be any benefit to have the camera pan with the steering?
    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

  6. #486
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    It's something I've considered a lot.

    I've played Need For Speed Shift 2, where when you turn the "helmet cam" also turns to mimic real life driving, but I HATE that! I am used to turning the car, not my head AND the car, and when my head turns in the game, it feels like the car is turning, and I totally mess up and drive in to a wall! Heh.

    So I've considered putting a "helmet cam" switch where as when I turn the wheels, it also slightly turns the camera pan, but I've not gone anywhere further than those thoughts because of my experience with that style of virtual driving. I know some people have their fpv setups like that by default as a 3-channel receiver only allows for that setup anyway, but I've never liked it enough to bother trying to design it in.

    The way it works now is I have the joystick for looking left/right/up/down but also the PAN knob for looking left and right, and the knob allows me to look left, and keep looking left while I focus on driving. If I want to recenter the camera, I just switch back to JOY for pan control and it's spring action will have it zeroed immediately.

    Things I'm not yet happy with are:

    The DVR has to be turned on by holding a power switch for a second and releasing it. THEN once it's on you have to hit "switch screen" or "LCD" in my design, to switch it's output to the lcd screens. So in order to see anything with this unit I'll have to:

    Main Power On
    VRX On
    DVR On
    DVR LCD Switch
    MON 1 On

    Then whatever the video transmitter is sending will be visible on the big screen. I really like the idea of having individual controls over every unit within this design, but at the same time I wish the DVR would just REMEMBER that I always want external video out set to ON.

  7. #487
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    do you think you'll be running it in wide or narrow view mode with the gopro?

    wide you wouldn't really need that pan/turn style but narrow it might be cool to have that option
    What's a coffee if it aint Irish

  8. #488
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    Actually my drive camera isn't the GoPro TQi! It's the 30x optical zoom cam that I got a couple months back. The GoPro - if it even makes it to the car - will just be used to record an HD copy of whatever I see (minus the zooming) while driving. I never took up their offer to get a discounted Black Hero3 yet, the first batch had some issues so I stayed away. Those issues are fixed now, and everyone is happy apparently. Either way, the Hero2 that I have still records fine, and I would record at 720p 60fps if/when it's on the car!

    Just to be clear, the camera I am using is this one:


  9. #489
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    "this water is not a significant source of anything"

    that camera looks Pro-er how much did that set you back? and what issues were there because I got my gopro fairly early I think

    Also wanted to ask you what kind of pinion you think that motor can handle

    Edit: I think I'll just go with a 16t maybe 18 for now, not looking to break anything
    Last edited by TQi; 02-21-2013 at 11:49 PM.
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  10. #490
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    In my rev video, it's a 14t pinion! Not sure what the motor can handle, but currently after having it lifted off the ground and continually revving it, and letting it spin down and rev, rev, rev, it hits 95f and the wheels are spinning fast enough to push it to 45mph. I don't think I'll put a larger pinion in based on that alone, but I'm sure it can handle more. I'm more worried about the Castle MMP trying to pass 150 amps to the motor fast enough, even though 2350kv is rather low.

    That camera isn't HD, but fpv can't do HD anyway. It certainly handles brights and low-light a lot better than the Hero though. I think it was $120 off Ebay.

  11. #491
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    wow awesome deal for that cam !

    I went ahead and bought a 17tooth around 1 in the morning, good thing I didn't go for a 21

    oohh, just seen the thread about stock tires and speed, guess I'll stick with the 14 when I'm running the stockers, thanks
    Last edited by TQi; 02-22-2013 at 02:01 PM.
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  12. #492
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    Great idea, it's also a good idea to make sure you have your own socket wrench instead of using the Traxxas hex driver, that thing is a pain!

    I just got off the phone with the laser printer cutter guys, and I'm now very happy. I spoke with the owner, and he's in love with my design and wants to make it as best he can! He's calling around seeing about getting brushed aluminum cut instead of using my vinyl, then sublimating the text on. It would look gorgeous we think. He can get all the metal for $3, but can't cut it himself with his tools so we'll see. Won't hear back until end of next week with everything he's come up with, but I'm happy to have finally made contact with someone who wants to move this forward with me!

    I've been doing up wiring diagrams all day, it's not yet 5pm but I need a break hah.

  13. #493
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    keep up the good work. i have a stock summit right now geting stuff in tues but i cant for the life of me stay away from this post. u are a summit god! lol

  14. #494
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    Thanks a lot traxxasdeathwish!

    I've just placed an order on this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...E:L:OC:CA:3160

    Can't beat that price either, insane!

    Going to mount the motor forward facing, so that I have much more room in the rear for all the camera gear and electronics. I figure since the 775s fit, the brushless I have will certainly fit as it's not as fat!

    Again, for that price.... I couldn't find even just the metal plate for that price, let alone everything!

    In other news I re-did the rear steering AGAIN, but now it's super solid and durable and tweaked exactly just right, the turns this thing can pull now are awesome!

  15. #495
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    After a bunch of tests today, I found that the rear right tire wasn't un-balanced so much as mounted wrong!



    If you remember I had to drill my spacers to work on the car, turns out that the rear right one I drilled was slightly crooked. I've re-drilled it now and it's perfect straight! The others ones aren't AS straight, but if it becomes a problem I'll fix it in the future.

  16. #496
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    Hahah you nub !

    joking, I didn't know you did that, I must have missed a couple pages here... was actually wondering why in that one video of the summit spinning, it looked more wobbly than mine
    What's a coffee if it aint Irish

  17. #497
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    Yeah it certainly was wobbly.

    SO I've got this powerful 360 servo that I will be using to control my camera pan.

    Mounted on the main camera will be at least two powerful IR arrays, a camera itself, a microphone, and a TILT servo.

    Now I want to be able to rotate 360 non STOP but usually what would happen is you end up twisting your wires up, or you forget how many times you've looked left, or looked right. SO SLIP RING!

    Took me ages to come up with the name via google, "wire turntable" "swivel wire platform" and on and on, turns out they are called SLIP RINGS.

    This allows you to spin 360 continuously without any wires bunching up!


    http://www.ebay.com/itm/290696961952...84.m1439.l2648

    Ordered two of those, 12 leads each - though 30awg they should be fine - meaning I can have the following:

    Two wires for the leds (power and common ground)
    Two wires for the server (common ground shared)
    Three wires for the camera (it's own CLEAN ground, plus signal and audio from mic)

    Leaving me with 5 extra leads for anything else, extra led's or individual signals to other things. Can't wait till THESE guys come in the mail!
    Last edited by krallopian; 02-28-2013 at 08:24 PM.

  18. #498
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. JimmyNeutron's Avatar
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    I love it!
    I do the same thing... be working on a project and realize that there is one part I need... I call it one thing and the rest of the world calls it another. lol
    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

  19. #499
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    After I found that I spend another hour looking for a swivel! Something that I can mount to the car, and the "turret" that will hold the camera and gear that will spin freely. I couldn't find anything sufficient. I was thinking something like this:



    But couldn't find it on ebay! I have one right now, just a steel colour from servo city, but it has too much play. It wiggles up and down, and I can't have that otherwise the camera will shake big time when I'm driving.

    In other news, I received my motor mount and cover today!

    Installed:



    With the dual motor cover on it looks great!



    Now I have a ton of space, all MUCH closer to the center of gravity!




    The unfortunate part is that the 14t pinion I have doesn't fit with the 2350kv motor, the can is too fat! So I put my 2100kv motor back on for testing purposes, and it works great! Thinking I need to pick up an 18t pinion or so.





    Quite the job to replace that plate though. To do it again would only take 5 minutes with the right tools, but you basically need to take the skid plate off the drive line underneath, unscrew both drive shafts from the transmission, loosen the steering's servo saver, unscrew the four screws holding the transmission in place, unscrew the transmission servo horn, unscrew the spur gear and slipper pad, unscrew all the screws on the motor mount plate, then reverse that process. First time around took at least 15 minutes of constant screwing hah.
    Last edited by krallopian; 03-01-2013 at 02:54 PM.

  20. #500
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    Went out and got a new spur gear, and two pinions today.

    I'm using the stock spur, and a 22t pinion, and it fits perfectly, and it's MUCH quieter now too.



    I picked up a 22 and a 24 tooth pinion and a 58t spur! The guy at the LHS convinced me the stock spur was 60, I told him it was 68 and he said, "nope just looked!" so I got the smaller 58t just incase the new pinions were too big.

    Wasted money.

    Calculated speed BEFORE with the 14t pinion was 35mph, it's now 55mph with the 22t pinion.

    If I put the 24t pinion with the 58t spur, theoretical top speed is: ~71mph! Haha, nooo thanks.

    55 is far too fast right now, and that's only because of the tires ballooning. Certainly want 100% punch control for this setup!

  21. #501
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    Man wish I had thought of reversing the motor with my build would have saved me some busted knuckles LOL
    Keep all my weight like your is now more to center. Momentarily thinks about tearing mine down and redoing it ....Nope!
    Great idea there Krall
    Endeavoring to persevere !

  22. #502
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    Thanks Eds! I'm glad I gave you the idea, but I got the idea from Quadiak (a member here)! He did this back in 2010! A few others have as well, I had just never noticed it until last week when I ordered the mount.

    The parts are cheap, and are a perfect fit of course as they are made by Traxxas for Traxxas! My tires balloon soo badly now at full speed, it's not good, but it would be pretty awesome to crawl around slowly, and then take off at 50mph!

  23. #503
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    No worries with me and speed, weights to much lol but the Dewalt gets it moving pretty quick.

    Hope I am still kicking when you get this master piece done....Hint, Hint LOL
    Endeavoring to persevere !

  24. #504
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    Yeah yeah yeah... that guy didn't get back to me as promised! I wrote an email Friday morning saying, "It's the end of the week already! I was hoping to hear back from you by now, as you had said I would! Any updates?"

    No response.

    I just did a crawling test, flawless! Zero issue crawling at 0.0001mph in second gear, with the 2350kv motor 68t spur and 22t pinion. Not bad!

    I had my transmission servo linkage backwards though, I think I might have stripped a gear inside, the arm was pushing up against the rear differential rod, oops. Still works fine though, but I DID hear a click.

    My frankenstein ESC can't currently be programmed as I have the leads all cut up for testing, so currently I can only go BACKWARDS fast with brakes, instead of going forwards heh. In time...

    I just noticed as well after the last round of testing that the rear steering screw has come loose. I need to find some 70mm screws so that I can put a nylon lock nut on the other end to prevent that from happening again.

    Without getting too carried away..... I ordered another couple cameras last night.

    One reverse camera from a car - so it comes in a nice and sleek round metal housing - perfect for mounting, and it has pretty good light sensitivity and decent resolution.

    The second one is a PIXIM. I finally pulled the trigger. It will be my main driving camera, as it has the highest resolution (690tvl) AND it has hardware WDR built in - meaning if I stare at the sun, the ground still remains illuminated.

    Perfect example:




    So the PIXIM will be my main driving camera, and when I want to zoom in, or drive at night I'll use the camera I was originally planning on using. So both the Pixim and the Effio-S will be mounted on the pan and tilt, and the rear camera will be just that.. a rear cam. I really want FOUR in total, one at the front wheels, one at the rear wheels, and two on the pan and tilt, buuuut I can't find a four-camera switcher for under $50. No thanks.

  25. #505
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    I've been working on the design of the ground station and realized a critical error!

    If I'm going to make this a 360 panning camera, I can no longer use my "JOYSTICK OR PAN" control setup! Because the pan can only work on a servo that returns to zero, but 360 servos just turn until you stop turning them, and they stop where you left them.

    SO if I switched from joystick control to the big pan knob, the pan knob would no longer work as I had intended originally. SO I've removed it.

    I've also decided to use cameras for the following:

    PRIMARY (Pixim Camera)
    ZOOM
    FRONT
    LEFT
    RIGHT
    REAR

    Six cameras in total! I will achieve this through using three 3-Camera selector chips!

    The way ONE works is this: You plug three cameras in to it, and plug it in to your receiver, and also run a video OUT to your video transmitter. With a three way switch you select camera ONE, TWO or THREE. What I will do NOW is have TWO 3-camera selectors, each with their video outs going to ANOTHER 3-camera selector which will select between two boards (each with three cameras on them.) It will use another channel, but I'm sure I can work something out.

    Still in the process of designing it in to the case, between functionality and esthetics.

    In the meantime I've found this video, showing WHY I've decided to go with a PIXIM based camera, over the traditional CCD or CMOS cameras.



    This little Summit is going to be one technologically-packed little kit!

    What I love most, is that while I was in the hobby shop today the owner had extra diffs, extra drive shafts, extra gears etc... all for $7-14! Traxxas needs to advertise this car as, "The ULTIMATE platform for robotics!" Without it, I wouldn't be doing any of this because I would be afraid to break something, and as I've just said... with Traxxas the support is at basically EVERY hobby shop out there!

    I'll hopefully have the six-camera selector all figured out by tomorrow and have a pic up! I complained earlier about the guy not getting back to me by Friday as promised, but BOY am I glad he didn't!
    Last edited by krallopian; 03-03-2013 at 12:27 AM.

  26. #506
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    Wow this is one crazy build! Took me forever to go through but great work man!

    Can't wait to see it the way you pictured it!

  27. #507
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    Quote Originally Posted by krallopian View Post
    ....What I love most, is that while I was in the hobby shop today the owner had extra diffs, extra drive shafts, extra gears etc... all for $7-14! Traxxas needs to advertise this car as, "The ULTIMATE platform for robotics!" Without it, I wouldn't be doing any of this because I would be afraid to break something, and as I've just said... with Traxxas the support is at basically EVERY hobby shop out there!

    I'll hopefully have the six-camera selector all figured out by tomorrow and have a pic up! I complained earlier about the guy not getting back to me by Friday as promised, but BOY am I glad he didn't!
    Lol that's true...
    And that's one thing I like traxxas products.... There is parts everywhere.... in all hobby shops.
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  28. #508
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    So I've taken this to the next level, begrudgingly so...

    Introducing an IC to the mix. I will program a little IC to take care of the three camera boards allowing me the use of six cameras.

    This is the latest design:



    Before you say, "oh wow SUUUURE annoootther one" let me say this: IT HAS TO BE! I told myself, no more than 100 designs. I am at design 98! Only two more major changes before I have to force myself to pull the trigger.

    That picture shows that the speakers have been moved BACK in to the case, and that the camera controls are all together and the drive controls are all together. They used to be split apart, which would have made a headache of wiring.

    What will happen with the camera controls now is the following:

    Turn on TX2 with the main power switch in the center, and the 6-channel transmitter turns on along with the mini IC. The six camera "power buttons" will flash in a little animation 1..2..3..4..5..6.. then return to 1, and only camera 1 "Drive" will be illuminated. When I hit any other camera button, it give a short BEEP and switch to that camera, turning on its LED and turning off whichever one was previously illuminated.

    I need THREE camera switching boards for this, and I've just hit order on my third and final one.

    I'm very happy with everything and how it's working/will work... and looking forward to waking up with an email from the laser guys tomorrow morning!

  29. #509
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    Quote Originally Posted by krallopian View Post
    Thanks DBG! It's a much more "realistic" layout in both scale, positioning and overall feeling.

    The 3D program I used - pretty sure I mentioned it, sorry if I didn't - was MAYA. It's the best 3D program out there IMO, they trained me 10 years ago so I have a pretty good base, but man how things have changed in that program since then hahah.
    OMG I want that modeling system and then i looked for the price and almost cryed. $3,625 for that?????
    I mean it looks amazing but for that price ill stick with sketchup.

  30. #510
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    Thanks for joining to say that!

    I use it for work, so the price has been more than recovered. Sketchup is great, and very capable!

    ***

    I've spent the day converting everything over to being computer controlled push buttons.

    Pretty happy with it, but starting to miss the crudeness of the switches everywhere as per the original design. I think it's a healthy mixture of the two right now, but time will tell I suppose.

    Researched cpu's all day, I found a bunch of '70s 20-pin ICs that I had in a box, buuut kinda worried about using them as they aren't really replaceable by todays suppliers haha! I've found a nice 40-pin chip for $2.80 with a $2.90 socket. Not bad at all hahaha!
    Last edited by krallopian; 03-05-2013 at 12:48 AM.

  31. #511
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    About the grabber arm...I know you said you where iffy about it know but if you have a couple extra bucks i think you check out these ones.
    1
    2
    3

  32. #512
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    Thanks for the links rclover! I certainly looked at those when I was thinking about doing it. I certainly wouldn't pay someone anywhere near $1000 for something that I could make for less then $200. Besides, it takes away from the fun entirely by just buying something someone else has already built.

    I decided not to go that route for now though anyway, I don't want to go computerized on the car itself and it simply wouldn't be good enough without one. Totally doable, but certainly not up to snuff in my opinion.

    Been working on wiring diagrams for my car for the past few days, working out how I want it, then refining it, then refining and refining some more hah.

  33. #513
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    Quote Originally Posted by krallopian View Post
    So I've taken this to the next level, begrudgingly so...

    Introducing an IC to the mix. I will program a little IC to take care of the three camera boards allowing me the use of six cameras.

    This is the latest design:



    Before you say, "oh wow SUUUURE annoootther one" let me say this: IT HAS TO BE! I told myself, no more than 100 designs. I am at design 98! Only two more major changes before I have to force myself to pull the trigger.

    That picture shows that the speakers have been moved BACK in to the case, and that the camera controls are all together and the drive controls are all together. They used to be split apart, which would have made a headache of wiring.
    IMO this is the most symmetric laided out control panel I have seen you put together yet. Your other ones seemed to have thing scattered out and not grouped together as this one is. Again only my humble opinion, but would stop with 98. Great work all the way around Have been fallowing your project from the start just have only added comments when necessary. Again IMO that is your final layout, stop second guessing yourself. LOL as we all do with big undertakings. IF you do any more changes make sure and keep your controls grouped like they are now. A year in the making but will come out a contest winner in a RC contest
    Endeavoring to persevere !

  34. #514
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    Smile

    Haha thanks a lot Ed!

    I've actually reached 100. I keep changing text position or size, or some status led type/position but I've got a final layout all set.


    I've just ordered two more sound systems. I was worried about them going out of stock, and since they were on sale with $5 shipping to my door, I ended up saving $20 over my original cost, AND $20 in gas.. ANND I got TWO more, so I'm way ahead of the game.

    (there's a whole entire paragraph missing!? Either way I'll just post the picture)



    Click Here For Larger Size Image

    - I've re-positioned the programming ports to the upper right corner - not going to use them very often, but certainly need them so now they are out of the way.

    - The COM area (walkietalkie) is close to the drive control, easy access.

    - The power buttons have been redesigned, now when you press the PWR button for the DVR, it will automatically turn it on and switch its output to EXTERNAL LCD. The little micro will have software to say, "Push and hold for three seconds, wait __ seconds for unit to boot, then press external LCD." And when I press it again, it will hold it for three seconds to turn it off - I will never press that button to turn it off though, I will just cut the main power.

    - The camera select buttons are now colour coded, BLUE is primary driving cameras and activate the Pan&Tilt controls, and red are secondary POV cameras in a fixed location. When I select either of the primary cameras, the green LED beside the pan and tilt control will illuminate showing, "use ME use ME!"

    - The drive control also has an LED showing when it is useable. It will only light up when TX1 is powered on, and INTERNAL control is selected on the control selector on the right. When I press the button on the controller select, it will switch between internal control, or external joystick - I'm thinking of building one with the 3D printer!

    - Beside the SD Memory slot, there are four little holes - that's where the beeper will be mounted.. every button I press will give a nice little, "beep."

    - The voltage/current/temp meters at the top will all be micro controller-controlled, the voltage and current are simple on and off, and the temperature switches between SYSTEM, MONITOR or OFF.

    - Sensitivity on the drive control no longer controls steering/throttle, but instead throttle and braking. If I left it the original way, I would lose braking power when I adjusted throttle sensitivity, and I never needed/wanted to adjust steering sensitivity. The way it is now, will allow me to have full brakes, but adjust between 0-100% throttle, and with a 50MPH capable speed, I want to be able to slow that thing down without losing braking power.


    That's it really, I'm not happy with how the Auxiliary panel looks, and I'm not POSITIVE I will be using two gyros, but I've got some time to figure that out while I wait for those led power switches to arrive so I can get the final diameter, and get this design shipped off for cutting.

    Oh and the 3D printer was ordered the other, $2800.00 eek. While working on the wiring diagrams I realized just how helpful this printer will be. So much for making something that, "anyone can make!" now you're going to need a 3D printer on top of everything else, drat.

    I'm also considering using two 1/16 scale 1400mah 3s Traxxas lipos in parallel (2800mah) to run all my FPV gear on the car, they are much smaller than my single 5000mah 3s, and will help balance the weight better. We'll see what comes of that.
    Last edited by krallopian; 03-09-2013 at 11:50 PM. Reason: Had to re-add the picture, shhhtrange.

  35. #515
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    That design is Beast! Actually it looks like most of the others to me lol but it's definitely evolved into a masterpiece

    You positive that's the final layout?
    What's a coffee if it aint Irish

  36. #516
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    I received the PIXIM camera today. It's awesome! Certainly no HD camera, but for FPV it's higher resolution than is transmitted anyway. The lighting is awesome, it's not IMMEDIATE but it only takes 0.5-1 second to adjust. I look outside my super bright window and I can see white clouds with detail, and blue sky, and green trees, with my black computer inside with decals in detail etc.. the camera doesn't have good LOW light capability, but that's what the 27x zoom camera is for, it has incredible low light sensitivity. All in all, I'm very pleased with this camera, it's as good and better than I expected. It has a little heat sink on it too, it gets quite warm to the touch!

  37. #517
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    So March has been, "talk about shimming everything" month on this forum it seems! I wanted to shim my wheels to remove the in/out carrier wobble, and I had 6mm, 8mm, 10mm, and 12mm shims in my ebay cart all with $4 shipping each before I remembered: I shimmed my MERV so I still have shims Somewhere!

    Found'm, AND they fit perfectly, I mean.. PERFECTLY. I used three .5mm thick ones and one .2mm thick one. Now three wheels have exactly ZERO wobble and one (the front right) has abotu 95% less than it did, virtually none.

    The car wheels spin a LOT faster now too, I'm really surprised so much that I think I can turn the Big Joes in to pizza cutters! I couldn't rev full because it wasn't high enough off my desk before they hit everything by expanding.

    2350kv 22t pinion 68t spur, 4s.... too much for even the Big Joes!

    Now I just need actually BALANCE the wheels, because they are still unbalanced causing an up/down motion on the suspension but again... that's for later.

    Haven't changed the ground station since my last update, so everythings good to go as soon a I receive these bloody led power switches so I can be 100% sure they ARE 10mm and the design will be shipped off. Only another couple weeks before the 3D Printer arrives!

    Turning 30 on Thursday, yuck... point is I've been stressed out about it and haven't done too much with the build in lieu of waiting for size verification of the switches.

    Not sure if I mentioned it or not, but I got my castle blower fan in last week or the week before, it's for a smaller 36mm can but fits my 42mm just fine with a tiny bit of pressure to make keep it snug.

  38. #518
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    I've never heard of the in/out carrier wobble...I wonder if my Summit suffers from this affliction and I am totally oblivious to it.
    Working hard to appear reasonably sane.

  39. #519
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    Basically what I did was shimmed between the hub and the axle carrier, this completely stopped the wheel from any wobble at all. I bought Integy extenders that I had to drill out to fit with the Summit grub screws, and there was play with the wheel after that. If I grabbed the wheel from the top and shook it towards the car and away from the car it wobbled. Now there is zero wobble, only unbalanced tires causing a shake at specific rpm.

    I'll throw a video up later in a separate thread, something like "Zero Wobble Mod" or something haha we'll see!

  40. #520
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    so your wheels only wobbled because of the wideners right?

    My wheels don't wobble much at all
    What's a coffee if it aint Irish

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