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  1. #41
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    Yeah I don't have a big load to put on it. Also when I plugged in the psu in the living room, it sseems to work fine. Idk what it is about that socket that it doesnt like. Also, the fans are down to half speed now. They don't need to run at full speed aince they are not pulling hot air fron the inside of a server.

  2. #42
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. JimmyNeutron's Avatar
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    Total Rebuild!

    I am going a total different direction with this supply...
    I will have another thread up soon explaining why.

    It is now going to be my bench supply... mounted up underneath of my future workbench with remote power points and controls.

    First thing I did is completely tear it down... unsoldered everything and cut off all the pins and broken plastic... then I painted the case with spray can bed liner:




    Since I do not know how long the power wires will need to be, I decided to solder 5.5mm connectors onto the tabs... but they had to be cut down first:


    One connector soldered into place:


    I am going to be soldering my control wires (USB cord) directly to the circuit board...

    Red = ON
    Blue = Fan Control (slow if connected to Red)

    Made a little something to keep the liquid tape from getting all over the place:


    Now I won't be able to short it out so easily:


    Here is a shot of the AC side... and a modified Traxxas parallel connector:





    Continued next post...
    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

  3. #43
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. JimmyNeutron's Avatar
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    The DC series connection:

    8 Gauge wire!

    Here is the pinout guide I made myself for this build... it is based on the circuit board side:

    3.3 is marked to power a indicator LED... my 2.8v LED's required a 27ohm resistor.

    This is how the switch will be wired up... eventually:



    Here are some shots of the solder work...


    3.3 pin powering the line to the LED with a resistor
    Power lines for the LM34DZ


    Ground for the LED
    White and green wire for powering it up
    Thick white wire for the fan control


    Pay close attention to the orientation of the wires in the servo connector!!
    Also note that the flat part of the LM34 is against the HS5 heat sink.

    A video of the sensor at work!


    Here is a shot of the control cables... I used USB cord!

    Eventually, when I get to have a work bench, I will make a CAT5 cable with twin USB ends that will plug into these supplies. The CAT5 has 8 wires... the USB as 4 wires each... the CAT5 will be soldered up to the switch.
    Last edited by JimmyNeutron; 03-05-2013 at 02:48 AM.
    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

  4. #44
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    Hey this is great! I actually ordered two LM34's so that i can try this as well. i was wondering where the LED wires were going to. I see they are there but you never mention where they go to. Is it just for looks? i should try that bed-liner spray myself, ill settle for black but red would look awesome. You modified your PS the same way i have mine. All the solder connections are on the bottom. The switch to turn the PS on, is that the green and thicker white wire? Lastly, when you did the 24v serial connection, did you lift the DC ground on one of the PS's? I did this with an HP set I made earlier.
    Last edited by M3Roc; 03-05-2013 at 09:31 AM.

  5. #45
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    Hey you got some great ideas Jimmy. These things are fun to learn with. Check out my smaller 12v@48a / 24v/48a dual supply charge box and wild throw rug. Track Ready!

  6. #46
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. JimmyNeutron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by M3Roc View Post
    Hey this is great! I actually ordered two LM34's so that i can try this as well. i was wondering where the LED wires were going to. I see they are there but you never mention where they go to. Is it just for looks? i should try that bed-liner spray myself, ill settle for black but red would look awesome. You modified your PS the same way i have mine. All the solder connections are on the bottom. The switch to turn the PS on, is that the green and thicker white wire? Lastly, when you did the 24v serial connection, did you lift the DC ground on one of the PS's? I did this with an HP set I made earlier.
    The LED wires will eventually be led up by the binding posts on top of the work bench. They are the wires within the USB cable that will be connected to the custom CAT5 cable I make. I don't have a work bench to install the supply into or I would have been able to show the LED's working. When 100% finished, they will only light up with the 12v rail is powered. 1 LED will light up for 12 volts 2 LED's for 24 volts. The switch will have three positions... off, 12v, 24v. The LED's do not feed through the switch.

    PS on is the thin white and green wire. The thicker wire is actually one of the servo wires for the LM34.

    I did not float the DC side ground... the cases are separated by a 2" wide strip of Velcro. AC side is floated though, as shown with the AC wiring. If this was going to be my portable supply, I would have floated DC ground as well... since it is going to be mounted up and out of the way I saw no point.


    Quote Originally Posted by BL-Bob View Post
    Hey you got some great ideas Jimmy. These things are fun to learn with. Check out my smaller 12v@48a / 24v/48a dual supply charge box and wild throw rug. Track Ready!
    Looks pretty good!
    I am currently building a track ready charge station... waiting on a few parts before I make a thread.
    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

  7. #47
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    Lookin good Jimmie! What heat sink did you end up using?


    Sent from my iPhone using autocorrect

  8. #48
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. JimmyNeutron's Avatar
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    The one labeled "HS5"
    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

  9. #49
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    Yeah I need to learn to read and look at pictures better.

    Was that the heatsink that got warm with no load? Basically with just power applied to the power supply it gets warm?


    Sent from my iPhone using autocorrect

  10. #50
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. JimmyNeutron's Avatar
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    That is the one that got warm... and warmer the longer it sat without air flow.
    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

  11. #51
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    Dear Jimmie,
    I have Dell AA23290 and want to know how i increase Vout from 12V to 13.6 or higher. please help. I will be very thankfull to you.

    Regards

    Nasir

  12. #52
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. JimmyNeutron's Avatar
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    Most of the time voltage cannot be increased by that amount with a single supply.
    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

  13. #53
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    Hello friends,
    my name is George, I'm from Germany.
    please excuse the odd mistake, this is an automatic translator from Goggle.
    I've been doing today is a Dell AA23290 AC adapter, everything works fine, but what bothers me, but are the very loud fan.
    Is there any thing, how do you get the maybe bit quieter, they do not always run at maximum revolution ..?
    Happy New Year to all, and beautiful Greetings from Germany.
    George

  14. #54
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. JimmyNeutron's Avatar
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    Yes, it is possible.

    Parts I used for 2 supplies:
    2 Servo wire extensions
    2 LM34DZ temperature sensors

    Solder the servo wire to the circuit board as shown:


    Attach the sensor to "HS5" heat sink as shown:

    The flat of the sensor is against the sink.
    The sensor pins slide into the servo connector.

    ** Be sure to pay attention to the orientation of the servo wires!! They need to be slid out of their housing and rearranged as shown above.




    It will have this effect:
    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

  15. #55
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    Hey many thanks for your detailed information!
    Just one more thing, on the image of the board, as is the blue + purple for the fan, and I can only see the the white wire from the blue dot goes away ... what's with the purple dot?
    Sorry is pretty late, maybe I overlooked because what ..?
    Thank you

  16. #56
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. JimmyNeutron's Avatar
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    Blue + purple slows the fan all of the time. I do not suggest this because if the supply starts to overheat it cannot call for extra cooling.

    Purple must be a control of some kind via the software within the supply. By using the temperature sensor, we are taking that control from the supply and giving it to the sensor.
    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

  17. #57
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    Ok,
    I've understood.
    So it is NOT mandatory to install a temperature sensor, if, as in my case only max.30-35A need?
    is it sufficient then if you BLUE + PURPLE with a piece of wire bonds permanently, so that the two of them run with fan permanently, just not as fast.
    Or should I go on the safe side, and yet to install my transistor, what do you suggest?
    greeting
    George

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