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Thread: 5551X cvds

  1. #1
    RC Racer
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    5551X cvds

    Hey guys I broke one of the drive shafts and thinking about upgrading to the TRX5551X cvds
    What are your cons and pros of these drive shafts?
    Can you please post some pics of it installed
    Also how do I installed it?
    Thanks!
    Last edited by subyhau; 04-20-2012 at 05:13 PM.

  2. #2
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    I notice they provide smoother and more equal power to both my wheels with WOT. I also just like them because they look good. Lol. I don't have a picture on my phone but I'll see if I remember to take one tonight.


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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by hnnguyen85 View Post
    I notice they provide smoother and more equal power to both my wheels with WOT. I also just like them because they look good. Lol. I don't have a picture on my phone but I'll see if I remember to take one tonight.


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    Ok thanks, how do you installed them? Also I'm thinking about getting the hot racing dual brake thing where should I buy it? I saw this one in ebay, it's the only one I can found in the ebay.

  4. #4
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    Here u go. The first pic is of the diff drive cup with the dust boot slide out of the way. The second one is the other side with the dust boot installed.



  5. #5
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. RC-Fan's Avatar
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    I was looking at the kit, do you have to change the spider gears that it comes with them or are those optional.
    FLM - EMAXX

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jersey Jato View Post
    Here u go. The first pic is of the diff drive cup with the dust boot slide out of the way. The second one is the other side with the dust boot installed.
    Hey Jersey could you take a pic of the whole piece? Really would appreciate
    Last edited by subyhau; 04-20-2012 at 06:25 PM.

  7. #7
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    You have to change the spider gears. The new spider gear go on to the one end of the cvd and is held on by a c-chip. If you guys go with the cvds get some new diff fluid cause you have to open up the diff to install them.

  8. #8
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    The install was extremely easy. You just have to take your time and read the instructions that came with the kit carefully. Make sure your x rings are in place and sitting properly so you don't lead diff oil. I replaced my oil with 50k oil after I got my jato and I'm still using the same type with the new cvds.


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  9. #9
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    I have 50k in mine too. i also have 100K but haven't tried it yet.

  10. #10
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    Thanks guys! So its easy to install, humm I need to buy diff oil then

  11. #11
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    Diff oil and cheap. And it will out last your engine and then some. You should only have to change out your diff oil every few months if even that.


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    I found it very annoying to install the small clips inside the diff, but other than that, it's pretty straight forward. No complaints here.

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    Quote Originally Posted by hnnguyen85 View Post
    Diff oil and cheap. And it will out last your engine and then some. You should only have to change out your diff oil every few months if even that.


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    What should I change oil at? And when? Because I don't play a lot with the Jato.
    What diff oil should I buy? Where do i put the oil in the diff? Sorry for my noobs questions xD Im new to this
    Last edited by subyhau; 04-20-2012 at 10:30 PM.

  14. #14
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. RC-Fan's Avatar
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    both driveshafts are connected to the diff (located inside the transmission box), to replace the plastic shaft for the cvd´s you will have to open the case take the diff, open it up, and replace the parts required, the oil goes inside the diff, the stock is 10k, others run 30k, 50k since it is already open you might want to refill it.
    Last edited by RC-Fan; 04-20-2012 at 10:51 PM.
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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by RC-Fan View Post
    both driveshafts are connected to the diff (located inside the transmission box), to replace the plastic shaft for the cvd´s you will have to open the case take the diff, open it up, and replace the parts required, the oil goes inside the diff, the stock is 10k, others run 30k, 50k since it is already open you might want to refill it.
    Which should I go? 50k?
    Can I reuse the stock 10k? Or I need to change it to higher K?
    Last edited by subyhau; 04-21-2012 at 09:38 AM.

  16. #16
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    I have seen many other cvd's on many sites, ones that don't require opening the diff. Like a slip shaft similar in design to the stock sliding plastick shafts but made from steel. These Traxxas ones seem to use a dogbone setup which I thought was less desirable??? Am I seeing this incorrectly? Has anyone seen the steel cvds on ebay that are the steel slider shaft, that use the stock dif setup with the set screw securing? They are 55.99 and I was wondering if anyone has seen or used them?
    Last edited by mattster1971; 04-21-2012 at 11:10 AM.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by mattster1971 View Post
    I have seen many other cvd's on many sites, ones that don't require opening the diff. Like a slip shaft similar in design to the stock sliding plastick shafts but made from steel. These Traxxas ones seem to use a dogbone setup which I thought was less desirable??? Am I seeing this incorrectly? Has anyone seen the steel cvds on ebay that are the steel slider shaft, that use the stock dif setup with the set screw securing? They are 55.99 and I was wondering if anyone has seen or used them?
    Put the link of the cvds that you are talking about.

    I'm gonna buy this ones:

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Traxxas-5551...ht_3039wt_1156

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  19. #19
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    Ok I posted the link, what do you think of these? Same traxxas design as original shafts just metal

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    I tried those they worked great for a while but then the splined part broke they silver solider that on. I solider it back a few times but it just got to be a pain.
    Quote Originally Posted by mattster1971 View Post
    Ok I posted the link, what do you think of these? Same traxxas design as original shafts just metal

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by slayer17 View Post
    I tried those they worked great for a while but then the splined part broke they silver solider that on. I solider it back a few times but it just got to be a pain.
    I guess I wont be very interested in those then. I was just turned off a bit by the dogbone connection of the Traxxas design. Why would that be better than the stock? Mass? They are thin shafts so less rotating mass but the plastic is light... I just don't understand why

  22. #22
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    It's half dozen of one half dozen of the other. I have a jato running 70+ mph with the stock plastic drive shafts and in 4 months I only broke one shaft and I belive it was a little to cold out for the plastic to hold up. The Cvds give you a little more postive feel to the truck. The stock shafts are great for loose loomy tracks or bashing places. The Cvds are great for high traction asphault or clay. In all my testing the cvds give you just a tiny bit of speed less friction turning it's such a small amount if everythings not perfect your not going to even notice it. If I had to have a choice and money was no object I would go with the traxxas type cvd. I have 2 trucks that are 10 years old with MIP cvds and never replaced them yet I bent one once and just bent it back in a vice. And after saying all that LOL Im still running the stock plastic shafts. I final found a set of cvds and I'm going to test them and see how they hold up in the jato.
    Quote Originally Posted by mattster1971 View Post
    I guess I wont be very interested in those then. I was just turned off a bit by the dogbone connection of the Traxxas design. Why would that be better than the stock? Mass? They are thin shafts so less rotating mass but the plastic is light... I just don't understand why

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