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Thread: aluminum Parts

  1. #1
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    aluminum Parts

    Just wondering if it worth upgrading to some of the aluminum parts for the rustler. If so what ones are recommended.

    Thanks

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    IMO yes on some part. Caster blocks are a must have IMO. Tranny case, bulkhead, bell cranks, shocks, hex drives, and shock towers are all worth considering.
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    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Petertje60's Avatar
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    +1 on what Dad said, I think even in the same order.
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    Definitely DO NOT put aluminum shock towers on! I put on an integy rear one, and wow, what a mistake.
    it didn't even last through three runs, I don't think. The screws holding it on just snapped because theres no flex at all.
    Then I added an rpm one and put it through worse bashing and it still hasn't broken after countless runs.
    Caster blocks and shocks are the onlythings on the entire truck that should be aluminum. well, maybe the front bearing carriers, but thats it.
    Aluminum doesn't flex, and that is why it is not good in most places. it just breaks itself and whatever parts it is attached to because it does not flex at all.
    Most of the parts on these trucks should be plastic (prefereably RPM) so it flexes. Flex is the main thing that will increase durability.
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    Id also suggest steering blocks and rear bearing carriers.

    I know in the p2de forums and i believe over here the shock towers are debated as they can bend fairly easily and not go back into shape right. But having flexible plastic there can bend the shock shafts. I have the protrac rear tower which is plastic and very solid

    Ill be doing my bellcrank next as i dont like the play the plastic one exhibits, hopefully the alum will e a bit tighter on the fittings
    VXL P2de, rusty MMP Orion vortex, mid '90's P2de

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    Quote Originally Posted by JoesStampede View Post
    Id also suggest steering blocks and rear bearing carriers.

    I know in the p2de forums and i believe over here the shock towers are debated as they can bend fairly easily and not go back into shape right. But having flexible plastic there can bend the shock shafts. I have the protrac rear tower which is plastic and very solid

    Ill be doing my bellcrank next as i dont like the play the plastic one exhibits, hopefully the alum will e a bit tighter on the fittings
    I see your point about the bending shock shafts due to plastic towers, but it is still not worth it.
    If you have all aluminum shocks with hardened (or some other kind of durable) shocks shafts I don't think it will be a problem
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    And by the way if you DO buy a few aluminum parts do not get integy.....
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    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Integy makes decent tools and that's about it unless you're building a shelf queen.
    I don't have shelf queens, I have bash kings!

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    Marshal Dadx2mj's Avatar
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    Definitely DO NOT put aluminum shock towers on! I put on an integy rear one, and wow, what a mistake.
    Judging all aluminum parts by Integy parts simply is not fair IMO. They have a huge reputation for inferior aluminum parts. No doubt an aluminum tower of any brand can bend but it is not that common. I have had STRC towers front an d rear on my Rusty for over 3 years now and have yet to bend one.
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    Upbasher: debate on!! hehe. I have to say that in my experience plastic in the majority of parts is not always the best option, and the flex that it offers is not always a good thing to have. For example I want my front bumper to have some flex to it, that way it will absorb much more of an impact than if it were to be solid. But on the other hand I will never run plastic in any of the 4 bearing carriers and castors again (well I will until funds can afford the alum lol) my rustler in the past week with the stock plastic castor and steering block has bent all of my spare king pins (3 in total) and now I'm out of spares so the next odd landing will pop them out of the plastic and bend the pin again. So I believe that flex in this area at all is a big mistake.

    See the problem with stuff flexing is that it will take other parts out of their alignment and may not allow them to return, or snap the weaker part due to that flex. In my experience I have come across more broken parts due to flex than I have anything else.
    This however seems to be quite a long term debate here and in the p2de forums, I would assume in others too. Some have huge success going RPM everywhere and enjoy what that gives them, others have huge success with the alum parts instead. I kind of see this as a 6 of one and half a dozen of another debate.

    My personal advice for this sort of question is that I would strongly advise aluminium parts, but I would never tell someone not to get RPM parts if that's what they were looking at, after giving my experience I would say to get what you feel comfortable with both cost and looks and performance wise. All because there is such mixed opinions on the subject
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    How about changing the steering that attaches to the servo to aluminum

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    I run aluminum castors, aluminum tranny and aluminum shock towers. The shock towers added some much needed rigidity to the truck and I have never bent one. I have run integy towers in 2 nitro rustlers and my current electric rustler. I like the fit and they have great adjustment options due to the extra shock mount holes.
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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by JayMcGill View Post
    I run aluminum castors, aluminum tranny and aluminum shock towers. The shock towers added some much needed rigidity to the truck and I have never bent one. I have run integy towers in 2 nitro rustlers and my current electric rustler. I like the fit and they have great adjustment options due to the extra shock mount holes.
    You make a very imortant point here I think most over look. I have a similar set up but I also run an aluminum bulkhead and none of my parts are Integy but anyway before I digress. A few months back I put together a roller to sell on ebay and it had all stock or RPM plastic parts. I put it next to my Rusty with the aluminum parts and grabbed the shock tower and tried to flex or twist it to see how they reacted. On the plastic roller you could see the twisting or flexing through out the entire suspension and even into the chassis, I was amazed at how much the thing twisted or flexed. On my Rusty with the aluminum parts you could not see any noticeable amount of twist or flex because of the aluminum parts. All that flex makes suspension tunign difficult and handling unpredictable.
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    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Petertje60's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kodak View Post
    How about changing the steering that attaches to the servo to aluminum
    If you mean part #2537, I would say no. If you mean the bell cranks (#3743), I would say yes.
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    Quote Originally Posted by JoesStampede View Post
    Upbasher: debate on!! hehe. I have to say that in my experience plastic in the majority of parts is not always the best option, and the flex that it offers is not always a good thing to have. For example I want my front bumper to have some flex to it, that way it will absorb much more of an impact than if it were to be solid. But on the other hand I will never run plastic in any of the 4 bearing carriers and castors again (well I will until funds can afford the alum lol) my rustler in the past week with the stock plastic castor and steering block has bent all of my spare king pins (3 in total) and now I'm out of spares so the next odd landing will pop them out of the plastic and bend the pin again. So I believe that flex in this area at all is a big mistake.

    See the problem with stuff flexing is that it will take other parts out of their alignment and may not allow them to return, or snap the weaker part due to that flex. In my experience I have come across more broken parts due to flex than I have anything else.
    This however seems to be quite a long term debate here and in the p2de forums, I would assume in others too. Some have huge success going RPM everywhere and enjoy what that gives them, others have huge success with the alum parts instead. I kind of see this as a 6 of one and half a dozen of another debate.

    My personal advice for this sort of question is that I would strongly advise aluminium parts, but I would never tell someone not to get RPM parts if that's what they were looking at, after giving my experience I would say to get what you feel comfortable with both cost and looks and performance wise. All because there is such mixed opinions on the subject
    Okay yeah aluminum in the caster block are is not good, I admit that because yes it will bend the pins.
    Flex is good IMO because then it won't break it will just return to it's original shape. Aluminum won't snap, but when you try to bend it back then it will snap. The only bad thing I can think of about flex is that sometimes it will bend suspension pins, but other than that flex is the best.
    Also, aluminum will often break the part it is attached to because like I said before it has no give.
    For example, lets say you go off a ramp, and the car flips and lands on the lid. If you have a rpm plastic shock tower the tower will flex, not breaking anything, and then just return to its original shape.
    Now lets say you did that with an ALUMINUM shock tower...the tower does not bend and transfers all the force to the tranny case and chassis where it attaches, and therefore either snaps the screws or strips out the holes....then you're out an expensive aluminum shock tower...contrasted to rpm which is cheaper. Oh yeah, theres another thing...plastic is cheaper!
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    upbasher how much actual experience have you had with aluminum parts on your Rusty?

    I try to avoid aluminum because of the weight but over the first year of owning my Rusty I ended up with a fair amount of it on the truck. Right now Ihave aluminum tranny case, bulkhead, shock towers, shocks, hex drives, caster blocks, bearing carrires, and bell cranks. For a durable baser that handles well I wont have it any other way. If I was building a track car I would want it lighter and avoid as much of the aluminum as I could but would expect to break more parts on a regular basis.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dadx2mj View Post
    upbasher how much actual experience have you had with aluminum parts on your Rusty?

    I try to avoid aluminum because of the weight but over the first year of owning my Rusty I ended up with a fair amount of it on the truck. Right now Ihave aluminum tranny case, bulkhead, shock towers, shocks, hex drives, caster blocks, bearing carrires, and bell cranks. For a durable baser that handles well I wont have it any other way. If I was building a track car I would want it lighter and avoid as much of the aluminum as I could but would expect to break more parts on a regular basis.

    I've had an integy rear tower and integy dogbones. (which were by the way so bad they didn't even fit on the truck right!)
    The shock tower's screws snapped right in half when I landed a jump on the top of the truck.
    My rpm tower has survived many more jumps and even worse ones without even cracking.
    I'll never buy integy again....
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  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by upbasher View Post
    I've had an integy rear tower and integy dogbones. (which were by the way so bad they didn't even fit on the truck right!)
    The shock tower's screws snapped right in half when I landed a jump on the top of the truck.
    My rpm tower has survived many more jumps and even worse ones without even cracking.
    I'll never buy integy again....
    That explains a lot Like I said in my previous post dont judge all aluminum parts by those made by Integy they simply are not the same or of equal quality.
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  19. #19
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    I prefer STRC aluminum parts over everything else. Their parts always fit and they last a good long time. I own their castor blocks, transmission cases, aluminum shock caps, front bearing carriers, steel hinge pins to eliminate your e-clip pins, and rear hub carriers. That's about all the alu I use on my trucks.

    Another plus to keep in mind is STRC bearing carriers come with a set of new bearings.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dadx2mj View Post
    That explains a lot Like I said in my previous post dont judge all aluminum parts by those made by Integy they simply are not the same or of equal quality.
    Okay, well I can't argue with that.....but I still say rpm is the way to go on the shock towers IMHO.
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    Quote Originally Posted by O.G. View Post
    I prefer STRC aluminum parts over everything else. Their parts always fit and they last a good long time. I own their castor blocks, transmission cases, aluminum shock caps, front bearing carriers, steel hinge pins to eliminate your e-clip pins, and rear hub carriers. That's about all the alu I use on my trucks.

    Another plus to keep in mind is STRC bearing carriers come with a set of new bearings.
    I had a major problem with STRC steering bellcranks my friend bought. The quality of the aluminum was good, but their 4x4 steering bellcranks don't come with any instructions or with the spring or bearings that are part of the bellcranks assembly. Even worse, their website has no support or instructions, no phone number...

    So far, the only aluminum part I've bought is the Golden Horizons aluminum transmission case. It was 1/2 the price of other aluminum cases... hope the quality is better than Integy... we'll see. But so far I'd have to say I'm not inclined to buy anything from STRC.

    If Traxxas would only fix whatever manufacturing problems they're having with their aluminum bellcranks (3743A), maybe I'd by a set of those since Traxxas quality and support are great... but they've been out of stock/unavailable most places.
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    now im going to get alotta grief for this but i love the fact of an all aluminum Rustler...matter of fact thats my goal now. im not much of a "basher" who jumps ramps and flips the car around, i just simply do speed passes around my house on the street and put on a show for the kids. so i figured i'm somewhat safe with the "all aluminum" build. Also, i heard people who "aluminate" their cars just sits them on the shelf. NOT ME because the aluminum parts are too expensive to just sit the car on the shelf
    Last edited by G-Rustler; 04-20-2012 at 10:25 PM.

  23. #23
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Petertje60's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by G-Rustler View Post
    now im going to get alotta grief for this but i love the fact of an all aluminum Rustler...matter of fact thats my goal now. im not much of a "basher" who jumps ramps and flips the car around, i just simply do speed passes around my house on the street and put on a show for the kids. so i figured i'm somewhat safe with the "all aluminum" build. Also, i heard people who "aluminate" their cars just sits them on the shelf. NOT ME because the aluminum parts are too expensive to just sit the car on the shelf
    No idea why you should get grief. My Bandit has much more alu parts than my 4x4 Pede for the reason I use the Bandit 99% for speed runs while the Pede gets off road way more often.
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    I'm just not sold on the flex. Like dad says it also makes the tuning and handling unpredictable at the best of times.

    Yeah you are right in the fact that changing to alum in some places will alter the weak point of the parts, but in most cases especially in the knuckles that isn't an issue as the new weak point - the a-arms - are still a lot stronger than the previous weak point which were the plastic knuckles.

    Yeah the cost of plastic is cheaper. But I can garnered that at some point nearly any plastic part will break and need replacing, the alum ones should never be subject to that. Especially from what I have heard from those with alum in most places.
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    I was reading a bit about the rpm front shock tower and it says it has minimal flex. Sure it has more flex than aluminium but this is precisely the point because surely it will absorb impact in the front and be an extension of the bumper in crashes while being rigid enough in normal driving? Judging by the lack of stiffness in my stock rear shock tower I would agree it needs to be aluminium especially seeing as it takes most of the weight from jumps
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    For a rear tower I 100% agree that it shouldn't be alum I had an STRC one that just kept slowly bending backwards and finally it was just unacceptable. The rear tower takes a TON of abuse if you ever roll or land on your lid in a rusty.

    As well that my FLM tranny has been bent and re bent while my Integy tranny is still holding up great. So yes some alum is bad or whatever but all company's can bend after all it is Aluminum

    If it's gonna be a track car or just a speed run then sure go for all alum it makes sense to have things predictable and rigid. If it's a basher then some things can be alum but like I said that rear tower gets a ton of abuse.
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    Guess the real question is what do you play to do with the truck . I have a Stampede with RPM parts because it is bashed hard at home and skateparks by my son - the parts are stronger than stock but cheaply replaced when they break . I have a Slash that has protrac for the adjustiblity and the fact they are stronger than stock , with less flex they are tuned more percise there for more predictible ( I do have alloy casters on it for the strength and rigidity and alloy transmission case for strength and heat ). My Rustler has all alloy hex , arms , casters , hubs , bulkhead , towers , shocks and fiberglass chassis and is run on street , hard ground for speed and a little light bashing - stronger than stock and has the "looks awesome " factor . So you need to ask yourself what do you need strength and good looks (alloy) strength and light and you know you are going to "try" to break it (RPM) or race bred tuning , weight and strength (proline protrac) . Each has a place in the hobby and you need to decide what your plans are to know what to use . As for the flex/break debate - the breaks I have had - you could have had chromoly parts - I would have broken them . Only universal advice I would give is the bumpers - RPM or T bone are a must . Sorry for the long post , just dont like the fanboy/hater mentality that comes out when questions like this are brought up .

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    What do you guys think of the Integy aluminum gearbox? I'm thinking of getting one strictly because I bash hard and don't really want to spend $70 on a box that's gonna get scuffed and scratched the first day I use it. I've heard some bad things about Integy, obviously, but I hear their gearbox is one of the few items they make that is decent. Plus, I don't know how a gearbox could bend, I'd be more concerned with the fit of the bearings and all that stuff. Does anyone have one that would recommend it?
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    The case I have is golden horizon , seems to fit well , only thing I noticed was the proline rear tower is a very tight fit .

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    I have used and installed both integy and GH. Both fit well. Rally depends in what rear bumper your gonna use. If you wanna use the Traxxas wheelie bar then I would get the GH one. But if yr gonna use the T-Bone rear bumper you can use either. Either way they are only $35 and that's a good deal.
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    I have 90% rpm stuff on my car. The aluminum parts I have are an integy tranny case and front bulkhead. Also I just got the traxxas aluminum caster blocks today. I personally have had no problems with my integy parts and I have had some bad wrecks. I would recommend the integy Tranny case for the money.

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    I just ordered this:
    http://www.integy.com/st_prod.html?p...81&p_catid=109

    We'll see how it works and I'll let you guys know!
    The harder I bash, the more I can upgrade.

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    Grats enjoy the cooler motor
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    Quote Originally Posted by AZ Racer X View Post
    For a rear tower I 100% agree that it shouldn't be alum I had an STRC one that just kept slowly bending backwards and finally it was just unacceptable. The rear tower takes a TON of abuse if you ever roll or land on your lid in a rusty.

    As well that my FLM tranny has been bent and re bent while my Integy tranny is still holding up great. So yes some alum is bad or whatever but all company's can bend after all it is Aluminum

    If it's gonna be a track car or just a speed run then sure go for all alum it makes sense to have things predictable and rigid. If it's a basher then some things can be alum but like I said that rear tower gets a ton of abuse.

    Agree 100%!
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  35. #35
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    The bending rear shock tower brings up the point of having a good sturdy shell in the first place. A good proline/jconcepts body can help save you a lot of grief with parts like the shock towers. Also you don't mention if you were running an aluminum front tower and bulkhead to make the body mounts all equally sturdy. A plastic front shock tower would allow the body to push the rear tower out of place much easier than an aluminum tower would.

    Also noone has mentioned STRC or FLMs warranty that covers damaged parts. But again if all you want is something that will take abuse then RPM is the way to go, if like most of us you want your truck to do a little of everything but not really any daredevil stuff then the aluminum will help keep everything straight.

    Btw-Plastic bends out of shape as well, take a look at your rpm rear arms after a few runs they wont be nearly as straight as they were out of the package.
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    Plastic has Form memory. . Alum does not. And yes sorry the one that has alum rear tower had STRC front tower and bulkhead. Oh and it was on a Jconcepts Illuzionz body.

    Every vehicle on the road has parts that move and flex. I beat the crud out of my protrac LCG rusty and it has ALL plastic parts. Never broken a protrac arm or tower. And before I did that upgrade the RPM rear held up great and when into the Alum rusty when the STRC one finally bent to much.

    Alum has it's place and some parts are great to upgrade to that don't receive to much stress. But again if it's a basher I would steer clear of a rear alum tower. Front NP it doesn't receive to much dmg.
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  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by OlorinTharkun View Post
    I had a major problem with STRC steering bellcranks my friend bought. The quality of the aluminum was good, but their 4x4 steering bellcranks don't come with any instructions or with the spring or bearings that are part of the bellcranks assembly. Even worse, their website has no support or instructions, no phone number...
    I do agree the FLM directions sometimes aren't a lot of help, but unless it's the bell crank, installation is pretty straightforward. When I installed my alu bellcrank I put it in backwards and had to redo it.
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  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by G-Rustler View Post
    now im going to get alotta grief for this but i love the fact of an all aluminum Rustler...matter of fact thats my goal now. im not much of a "basher" who jumps ramps and flips the car around, i just simply do speed passes around my house on the street and put on a show for the kids. so i figured i'm somewhat safe with the "all aluminum" build. Also, i heard people who "aluminate" their cars just sits them on the shelf. NOT ME because the aluminum parts are too expensive to just sit the car on the shelf
    No grief here my friend.
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  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by AZ Racer X View Post
    Plastic has Form memory. . Alum does not. And yes sorry the one that has alum rear tower had STRC front tower and bulkhead. Oh and it was on a Jconcepts Illuzionz body.

    Every vehicle on the road has parts that move and flex. I beat the crud out of my protrac LCG rusty and it has ALL plastic parts. Never broken a protrac arm or tower. And before I did that upgrade the RPM rear held up great and when into the Alum rusty when the STRC one finally bent to much.

    Alum has it's place and some parts are great to upgrade to that don't receive to much stress. But again if it's a basher I would steer clear of a rear alum tower. Front NP it doesn't receive to much dmg.
    The same properties of the RPM plastic that allow it to bend will also allow it over time to lose it's "memory" so beware when your rustler starts dogtracking or becoming a little less predictable it may be time to get some new arms. I have already relegated one rpm set to stampede duty because they are no longer true.

    I would have to disagree about the aluminum parts, the one's that receive the most stress are the ones that should be aluminum...front bulkhead, caster blocks, axle/bearing carriers/hubs...the arms take alot of punishment but not nearly as much as the parts that hold the wheel on.

    The main thing is to match the parts you are buying to what you are going to do with your truck to maximize their effectiveness and minimize your cost and downtime.
    Donít handicap children by making life easy

  40. #40
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Petertje60's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rjm2519 View Post
    The main thing is to match the parts you are buying to what you are going to do with your truck to maximize their effectiveness and minimize your cost and downtime.
    i couldnt agree more. It's all about the personal preference of flexibility and strength to get your car drive the way it suits you best. And of course what you are willing to pay for it.

    There is memory in your head, but not in material. Aluminum has flexibility too, it only needs way more force to flex it and the amount it will flex is way less than with plastic. Fold an RPM shock tower and it will never bend back to its original shape anymore.
    Nobody is born with experience.

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