Bullet Proof E-Revo Upgrade Suggestions

[TangyDinosaur10]

I'm going to get a brushless E-Revo soon, and I wanted to upgrade it to be completely bullet
proof and as
as I can get it to go. I know for sure that I am getting the Dodge Charger body and Proline
Badlands. What other upgrades should I get? And what ESC/motor setup whould make this thing scream? I would be using
2, 3-cell 11.1v 6000XL Maxamps Lipo batteries.
I am thinking that I will put the Mamba XL and the 2028 Castle brushless motor. Are there any
different ESC/ motors out there that are better?
Would the Traxxas ESC/motor combo for the XO-1 fit in the E-Revo?And if there are any better LiPo batteries out there, please don't hesitate to say.
P.S. I have no price limit on what I am willing to buy.
Thanks,
TangyDinosaur10

[BL-Bob]

Losi LST diffs and cvd's!

[anr2442]

Stay away from Max Crap! They are overpriced and so/so quality.

Give me a minute and ill post a battery list that has been compiled by users on here. Regardless, if you want cream of the crop, its Hyperion or SPC.

http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...=1#post5068278

For mods
- RC Solution Roll cage,
- rear chassis brace mod,
- motor mount hinge mod,
- LST diffs (ebay),
- LST axles (ebay),
- Kershaw Designs short silver front dogbone (kit is a waste)
- FLM Hardened 152mm rear dogbone
- Kershaw hardened drive cups for center shafts (two 8mm bore and two 6mm bore)
- Tekno carriers and hex combo (for LST axles),
- Tekno Sways,
- ESC cap bank from CC,
- TQi radio (brand new Erevo should have it),
- TQi docking base for iphone and all the sensors,
- 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28 pinions,
- traxxas wheelie bar with red or blue wheels,
- CC fans for the motor,
- Traxxas VDP Variable Dampening Piston Kit,
- purple & pink springs,
- hot racing aluminum rear toe links,
- hot racing 6 pad slipper clutch with aluminum pads
- traxxas red aluminum pushrods,
- traxxas black aluminum toe links (for t-maxx or e-maxx), etc.

[Godspeed]

I think you should get 2 BL Erevos (and send me the second one!!!)

[pavmentsurfer]

IMO you don't really need anything more than the MMM/2200kv combo on 6S... but if you can find a Castle 1518 motor... get that. Its an absolute MONSTER and will work with the MMM ESC.

RPM arms all the way around with the True Trac rear end. Aluminum knuckles, summit driveshafts, chassis brace mod, Either LST diffs or at the very least aluminum diff cups. RPM bumpers and bumper mounts. I think the stock pushrods and links are strong... but you can upgrade them if you want. Traxxas centre CVDs... Tbone skid plate and A-arm guards. Single servo with at minimum a GHracing single servo arm... but you can also get the aluminum servo mount as well. Lunsford titanium a-arm pin set. Hot racing double up slipper kit. (you'll probably need that with the bigger motor).

Really, there are alot of things you CAN do that wont improve durability at all. Pretty much anything ON the chassis can be left plastic as it wont really benefit you to be aluminum and only adds weight.

[BL-Bob]

I was afraid he already bought the MaxPuffs lipos and didn't want to pee on his parade.

Hyperion (and any others that don't) needs to use soft silicon wire for their balance taps or they'll fatigue and break off.

No way the 2028 will fit, the 1515(stocker) will rip your stuff up enough.

[87 GN]

http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...=1#post3868456

link to diff mod
or shimm


good info in both threads..

http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...-Diff-Shim-Mod
&
http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...to-shim-a-diff.

[BEN_]

For mods
- RC Solution Roll cage,
- rear chassis brace mod,
- motor mount hinge mod,
- LST diffs (ebay),
- LST axles (ebay),
- Kershaw Designs short silver front dogbone (kit is a waste)
- FLM Hardened 152mm rear dogbone
- Kershaw hardened drive cups for center shafts (two 8mm bore and two 6mm bore)
- Tekno carriers and hex combo (for LST axles),
- Tekno Sways,
- ESC cap bank from CC,
- TQi radio (brand new Erevo should have it),
- TQi docking base for iphone and all the sensors,
- 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28 pinions,
- traxxas wheelie bar with red or blue wheels,
- CC fans for the motor,
- Traxxas VDP Variable Dampening Piston Kit,
- purple & pink springs,
- hot racing aluminum rear toe links,
- hot racing 6 pad slipper clutch with aluminum pads
- traxxas red aluminum pushrods,
- traxxas black aluminum toe links (for t-maxx or e-maxx), etc.

Or you can go the easier and cheaper way and just buy a nice Truggy. The only downfall? A little less clearance, but that could be solved with a set of taller tires.

Don't get me wrong. This is a hobby, do whatever you want. But putting that much work into something only to bring it up to par with a stock pro level truggy seems crazy to me when you could get there right off the bat for less money and much less trouble.

[pavmentsurfer]

Or you can go the easier and cheaper way and just buy a nice Truggy. The only downfall? A little less clearance, but that could be solved with a set of taller tires.

Don't get me wrong. This is a hobby, do whatever you want. But putting that much work into something only to bring it up to par with a stock pro level truggy seems crazy to me when you could get there right off the bat for less money and much less trouble.

He doesnt want to race... he wants a basher. You can't bash a truggy like you can a properly modified E-Revo. They aren't meant for it at all. He wants to put a CHARGER body on it... thats about a far from truggy territory as you can get IMO.

[BEN_]

You can't bash a truggy like you can a properly modified E-Revo.

Really? Ok

[LaTuFu]

If you want a bullet proof revo, stay away from the ridiculously huge overpowered (for the chassis) motor and esc.

If you really want bullet proof, stick to 4s.

Otherwise, you will be spending high end race buggy money to almost bullet proof a 6s basher.

[n_gifford]

If you want a bullet proof revo, stay away from the ridiculously huge overpowered (for the chassis) motor and esc.

If you really want bullet proof, stick to 4s.

Otherwise, you will be spending high end race buggy money to almost bullet proof a 6s basher.

Agreed. Before I bought mine, I watched a bunch of YouTube videos of people doing standing backflips and such on 6s and thought "That's what I want!!!"

I've only ever run 4s in mine and spent more money than I'd like to admit on broken parts. Now that I've learned how to drive it (Insert here), and upgraded a few choice parts, I'm pretty set on 4s for bashing. I can gear it for PLENTY of speed, and still jump it 50+ feet (Distance) and 12+ feet (Height) with NO problem.