Rally VXL 1/16 Upgrade Suggestion?

[jtalaue]

I just purchased this awesome Rally VXL 1/16Mand only upgrade I've got is an extra battery to make it run 50mph and changed the pinion that came in the box. I'm also new to the RC world. I just want to for example upgrade but don't want to buy useless parts and buy parts from the wrong manufacturer. I've done some reading and I noticed Integy is definitely the wrong way to go as far as metal parts. Any info would be appreciated. As for speed I'm ok with the set up for now I definitely would like better handling etc

[turok]

rpm arms is a good one

[jtalaue]

Thanks just ordered the rear and front sets. What about suspension? Is the upgraded suspension from traxxas a good one to get?

http://buy.traxxas.com/images/products/7061X.jpg

[Jimmie Neutron]

Those are great shocks... I am sure you'll like them over the stock ones.

[badtoad561]

7033X and steel hollow balls to fix suspension slop. Be sure to use blue loctite on the threads so they don't back out. Those shocks are a good upgrade as well. Maybe the motor heatsink if running high voltage a lot.

[badtoad561]

Or maybe instead of the 7033X you could just get the RPM knuckles (axle carriers)

[Jimmie Neutron]

I would stay away from 7033x and the RPM carriers.

7033x do not add any strength.

RPM carriers are prone to failure.

Aluminum carriers are the way to go... HR, GPM, or GH all make a decent carrier.

[prototyp]

Slop Reduction:

The stock TRX hubs got sloppy very quickly, so order some RPM hubs. They have their naysayers, but I'm fully into them. I just did a full rebuild of my RPM hubs after over a year on them and they're doing great. They zero out slop and a tiny bit of graphite dust on the balls eliminates any stiction. The way the retainer cups are designed they don't get tightened to the hub body (this is a very important detail), they float and pinch the pivot balls so if there's any wear over time, you just snug the cup screws a little, squeezing them a bit closer to the hub.

In my experience, the steel hollow balls didn't take care of much slop at all - even in new rods. So I took a different approach: Toe Floss. Also after about a year I've only had to redo two wraps. The teflon tape also minimizes wear in the rod ends so they continue stay slop-free.


Bearings for the rockers and for the steering post. Super smoothness here just makes all the suspension work better. Bushings on the steering post wear quickly, adding precarious slop. You can pick these up from Avid RC, for example, just make sure to get the right sizes and amount.


Tires:

Get tires suited to how you want to drive the car... the stock Rally set are very sketchy for grip driving and not slidey enough for drift (unless the road is wet). They're really just good enough to get yourself into trouble... I've tried a bunch of grip tires (4tec, Austar, HPI) and prefer both the D and Pro compound HPI X Pattern.

For drifting HPI T Drift or the R2 copies are my faves.

(wheels are fun too, R2 Hobbies or HPI for these...)


Other worthwhile bits:
TRX 3374 heatsink is a nice piece, helps keep the motor cooler and matches perfectly.

Power:
SPC LiPo (and a good charger)

Springs:
Found the stock green 2.9 springs to be too soft, so went with Traxxas 4.3 (7342, front) and 3.4 (7341, rear). Playing around with stiffer custom shocks but tend to come back to this combo.

Shocks:
The 7061X are very nice shock set (I run them now) but IMO not a critical first upgrade. The stock shocks will be fine for a while. After a few rebuilds and the shafts wear and they get leaky, then go for a full X kit.

[jtalaue]

Slop Reduction:

The stock TRX hubs got sloppy very quickly, so order some RPM hubs. They have their naysayers, but I'm fully into them. I just did a full rebuild of my RPM hubs after over a year on them and they're doing great. They zero out slop and a tiny bit of graphite dust on the balls eliminates any stiction. The way the retainer cups are designed they don't get tightened to the hub body (this is a very important detail), they float and pinch the pivot balls so if there's any wear over time, you just snug the cup screws a little, squeezing them a bit closer to the hub.

In my experience, the steel hollow balls didn't take care of much slop at all - even in new rods. So I took a different approach: Toe Floss. Also after about a year I've only had to redo two wraps. The teflon tape also minimizes wear in the rod ends so they continue stay slop-free.


Bearings for the rockers and for the steering post. Super smoothness here just makes all the suspension work better. Bushings on the steering post wear quickly, adding precarious slop. You can pick these up from Avid RC, for example, just make sure to get the right sizes and amount.


Tires:

Get tires suited to how you want to drive the car... the stock Rally set are very sketchy for grip driving and not slidey enough for drift (unless the road is wet). They're really just good enough to get yourself into trouble... I've tried a bunch of grip tires (4tec, Austar, HPI) and prefer both the D and Pro compound HPI X Pattern.

For drifting HPI T Drift or the R2 copies are my faves.

(wheels are fun too, R2 Hobbies or HPI for these...)


Other worthwhile bits:
TRX 3374 heatsink is a nice piece, helps keep the motor cooler and matches perfectly.

Power:
SPC LiPo (and a good charger)

Springs:
Found the stock green 2.9 springs to be too soft, so went with Traxxas 4.3 (7342, front) and 3.4 (7341, rear). Playing around with stiffer custom shocks but tend to come back to this combo.

Shocks:
The 7061X are very nice shock set (I run them now) but IMO not a critical first upgrade. The stock shocks will be fine for a while. After a few rebuilds and the shafts wear and they get leaky, then go for a full X kit.

WoW THANK YOU FOR THE AMAZING INFO!

[EDUARDO007]

Buy a good fan and put over the esc, and buy too one heatsink with fan. I have bought this and I am running with 3 s and I haven`t any hot issues.

And my car is very fast.

But is a good idea if you check your esc`s temps and motor`s temps too.

Best Regards EDUARDO BRAZIL

[ShortCourseOnly]

I have had a mini since they launched. I used to race my 1/16 Slash VXL on carpet and the limitations of the chassis were significant from the start. I initially purchased the 1/16 Slash VXL as a preview to the Slayer which I really wanted before the Slash 4x4 was announced. My experience with the chassis drove me to create the custom LCG plate chassis that I have shown in other threads. I converted to a half 8 buggy first and now to a Rally. The potential is great with some key upgrades.

Upgrade Suggestions in order of importance IMHO:
- Tires to match your surface and temps (HPI X, Muchmore slick, Drift, Stock)
- Traxxas Aluminun pillow ball cups. (7033x) - durability and reduces slop
- Traxxas Black front and tan rear springs. - improves on-road handling
- Traxxas Aluminum toe links. (7038X) - tunability and reduces slop
- Bearings in the rockers. - reduces friction for improved suspension performance
- Bearings in the steering - reduces friction for improved steering performance and reduces load on servo
- Center diff - tuning feature
- GTR Shocks - smoother suspension operation and reduced leaking
- Improved steering servo - Faster rate more durability (this was the first thing I changed!!)

I do like the VXL system for it easy operation but I prefer a sensored system for smooth accurate power delivery. I also like the tuning options of the Novak ESCs. The Traxxas ESC is not tunable really.

My changes so far:
- Tires - I have HPI X, Muchmore slick 28deg, Stock Rally, Foam, and Slash tires)
- Custom LCG carbon fiber plate chassis
- Traxxas Aluminun pillow ball cups.
- Traxxas Black front and tan rear springs.
- Traxxas Aluminum toe links.
- Bearings in the rockers.
- Bearings in the steering
- Center diff
- GTR Shocks
- Hitech mighty mini servo
- Reedy 2S 4200mAh 35C saddlepack

Planned set-up:
- 5mm ride height front 4mm ride height rear
- 3 degrees rear toe in (requires adjustable toe links TRA7038X)
- 0.5 degrees front toe in
- 1 degree positive camber front
- 0 degree rear camber
- 3mm droop spacer installed in the shocks
- 7,000 weight silicone oil in the shocks (this is diff oil!)
- Black spring in Front and tan springs in rear

[toolman]

Just bought a used Ken Block Fiesta. It has a bad steering servo. Which Hitec model do you recommend for some racing and some bashing?

[multidookey]

Why would you use diff oil in your shocks? I have been thinking about that too cause i want the low ride height but i still want the suspension to soak up bumps in my 1/16 slash. I just think it would be a good option for that whats your reason and opinions on it?

[metoo2]

Why would you use diff oil in your shocks? I have been thinking about that too cause i want the low ride height but i still want the suspension to soak up bumps in my 1/16 slash. I just think it would be a good option for that whats your reason and opinions on it?

It's not something you want to do unless you plan on a very low ride height and plan to run on an even high bite surface. It's not good for soaking up bumps but great for quick transitions.

[gotta have fun]

One thing I like and it is often never mentioned is to buy a set of rc screwz and a good 1.5 and 2.0mm hex screwdriver. After awhile when your ready to tear down your car and do some serious maintenance etc. having these screws to put back in are worth every penny. Sure they won't make you go faster but hey not having to worry about rusted or stripped hardware pays off in the long run and will defiantly save you some headaches.
As far as performance goes stock carriers should be replaced ASAP. I usually go with rpm but I just recently bought a pair of aluminum ones just to try. On the rally I noticed a difference just a little but it seemed to better the steering response.
Bearings are defiantly another long term benefit.
I would have to say though go out and have fun! You will quickly find the weak spots and things you would like to improve and for you it may be something compleatly different.

[pranash07]

Traxxas needs to do some upgrade to give it an easy droop adjustment.
the car seems to flip on cornering. I don't think that I'm the only person that wished this.

[12jam]

Traxxas 7033x aluminum pivot ball caps is a must needed upgrade. The stock plastic ones does not hold up after a few roll overs. Also the center differential from traxxas is a good upgrade because when you are going full throttle on a straight away it keeps the car straight instead of spinning out.

[ebinconcord]

whats the part number for the center diff upgrade?

[QYKSLVR]

Just bought a used Ken Block Fiesta. It has a bad steering servo. Which Hitec model do you recommend for some racing and some bashing?

I believe the HS-85MG is the replacement for this 1/16s

[Jimmie Neutron]

5085 if you want digital.

http://buy.traxxas.com/product_info....oducts_id=9379

[TQi]

I'm in the market for a good cheap set of shocks for the rally if anyone can help me out it'd be appreciated!

Also was wondering what the problem is with the rally stock shocks compared to the more expensive upgraded traxxas set, and if they'd be a decent cheap way to go?

Started out as a slash so I have these aluminum GPM shocks or something and the shafts are all bent, and they're just garbage now, broken gaskets and stuff, springs are way too stiff, I'm just gunna throw them out.

Going to be doing speed runs, and trying to drift with these "ken block" "tires" lol

Sorry I'm not trying to thread jack, just didn't want to make a new thread for these little questions, thanks.

[Jimmie Neutron]

HR shock bodies with Traxxas internals and seals is the best bang for the buck.

[TQi]

cool maybe Ill use the bodys I have because they do screw on but use traxxas internals and springs, thanks man

do the rally shocks come with a special spacer? I think I heard something about that.


and to the OP, I think you'd love a gyro for a good upgrade to help drift and keep the car straight during passes

around $20 I got an Esky 0704 off e bay

[Jimmie Neutron]

A spacer, yes... not sure if it is special though.
Any tubing will work.

[pranash07]

its fast with a 3S lipo.
This was a 1/16 revo and i converted it into a 1/16 Rally.it only costed around 45USD to do with parts of ebay.
It was definitely a conversion worth doing instead of buying a new car.
all i changed was body mounts for FR & RR,Bumper and bumper mount,drive shaft assembly x 4,toe links FR & RR,Pushrods,suspension arms for FR & RR and about 70mins of your time to put it together.
After doing all this...putting that power down with a 3S is hectic. Im running the standard Spur and a 31tooth pinion.
amazingly enough with the 31tooth i am not over heating!!! which is a big UP to the standard brushless system.
Any Idea how im going to create more traction?cause the acceleration is crazy!

Please watch your language and keep it suitable for all members. If you trip the language filter as you did in this post you must edit the post to remove the offending language

Dadx2mj

[12jam]

Sorry for late reply. The part number for center differential upgrade is Traxxas 7014 . In my opinion this is one of the best upgrades after the alum. pivot ball. The car is so much more controllable at WOT without spinning out. Lol.

[Daholla72]

I was wondering when it comes to the A arms, I know some people swear by rpms, I like RPM's also. But one thing i have notice is that they can stand up to a lot of hits but if you strip the thread it becomes useless. So would aluminum be better since it would take a whole lot force to strip a screw out of it. Thanks D

[Jimmie Neutron]

Aluminum arms will transfer the force of the blow... aka broken bulkheads and probably broken chassis... or bend... or both.
That all can add up really quick.

There are only 2 screws that go into the arm... the pillow and the push rod.
I have not heard of very many cases of them getting stripped out from use... a few from improper installation though.

[Daholla72]

So you would say rpm A arms would be the way to go?

[Jimmie Neutron]

Absolutely.