Lots of questions needs lots of advice

[jhsmith87]

sorry for that long post guys. i still was wondering the differance between sensor and sensorless motors?

also want to thank you guys you've all been a ton of help and i am glad to see your helpful and not critical, and laugh at my (stupid questions) i was on a coin collecting forum when i tried collecting coins but they guys on there only laughed and made fun of my ignorance.
so thank all of you for your help and abiltiy to refrain from making fun of my ignorance to the hobby. with people to continue to help me as you all have i am sure i will become very good at this hobby.

any way sensor vs sensorless????

[Jimmie Neutron]

Yes, the RC can hit 50mph out of the box. But, if you read the manual; this speed is only obtainable for short runs on smooth, level surfaces. Upgrading the ESC will make this speed obtainable throughout the duration of a run on most surfaces.

A sensored motor will not cogg. Cogging is the effect you will currently get if you try to accelerate extremely slow as the stock system is not sensored.

EDIT:
I had about $720 into my MERV (including the RC)...
without including the cost of LiPo's and the support equipment.

With the above configuration, I never broke a part.

I have now just added a 4370Kv motor and a 60amp ESC. This combo adds $55 to the tally.
(The motor was only to convert my wife's Boss to brushless with my stock motor)

[jhsmith87]

only $55 dollars for motor and esc you must tell me where you got it pm me with the link.

[Jimmie Neutron]

http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...Initial-Review

[jhsmith87]

50togo clean out your inbox so i can send you a pm

[jhsmith87]

http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...Initial-Review

how did this system preform vs your stock system

[jhsmith87]

and hey jimmy can you send me a link with a good motor from there that fits the revo

[Jimmie Neutron]

how did this system preform vs your stock system

The ESC has a lot more punch... and a lot more braking.
So far, not a single complaint.

Definitely get the program card with the ESC.

The motor is listed with part numbers in the thread linked above.
You are going to have to search for it as links to that retailer are not allowed.

[jhsmith87]

i already know i was just wondering if i should try to get 100a or 150a and one that could go as high as 4s lipo and from the dimensions listed on there it looks like it wouldnt fit. can i get one thats 100a or 150a that would fit?

[50togo]

probably standing on its side

[jhsmith87]

Simple solution don't know why I wouldnt think of that ha. But I believe I know what I'm gonna go wit now, thanks 50

[50togo]

your welcome might need some extra tires too once yours go bald!

[jhsmith87]

I want street tires. Know any good ones where the glue will stay on better than the stock or recommendations on how to keep them on

[50togo]

i have a set of speed hawgs you will need some 2.2 rims like hpi ss monster use a quality ca glue clean the rim and tires with a rag and rubbing alcohol shouldn't have a problem!

[50togo]

don't forget to strap them i use packing tape that has nylon in it give it a few laps around but don't forget to wipe the inside good with alcohol too speed hawgs are pretty wide you will get some minor ballooning at speed

[jhsmith87]

Tape? Where u put tape? And how does that help

[50togo]

You take a new tire flip it inside out. Wrap it with tape about the width of the tire. If you ever saw a stock tire at speed they grow from the spinning force. Taping helps reduce it

[50togo]

When a tire balloons you will gain top end speed but wont handle well

[jhsmith87]

i'll check out the tapping thing sounds like it would help alot.

i just ran lipo today for the first time. WOW could not believe the extra power it had just by using a different battery. i can only imagine what a 3s would do. holly crap i think i may practice a good while with stock system and lipos untill i can manage to keep good control over it

[50togo]

Yep 33% more power for 3 cell!

[jhsmith87]

ok i broke the plastic part on the front end. i dont really know how to explain it, but if you take the whole front end off the chassis it is the part at the bottom where the two screws that come from the shock mount screw into the the front end to hold it to the chassis its like two arms at the very rear and has two screw holes at the end of them. what is this part called so i can get a new one or how can i fix it?

[50togo]

I think you are talking about the bulkhead 7030x

[50togo]

It houses the diff

[jhsmith87]

it looks like it the best way to explain it would be if you followed the screw that goes through the back of the front shocks all the way down its the part that it screws into. to me it looks like its all one big piece that the diff gears sit in. im not sure though i do know its where the screws from the shocks end

[Jimmie Neutron]

[50togo]

Yep the bulkhead. Pu some 21141 associated shims you might as well shim it. And if you haven't changed the oil pu some 50k diff oil Traxxas 5137

[jhsmith87]

that is it.. you guys are great tons of help thanks alot.

[jhsmith87]

what do you mean shim it? and put oil on the gears in the diff? its not really sealed is it? i know i have it apart now and it has a little grease on it but it wasnt really full of oil

[50togo]

On my phone again can't send pics. Inside the diff there is oil. You take the 3 tiny screws out and it comes apart. I am sure Jimmy will send you a link on the diffs

[jhsmith87]

so the oil sits it a resivior type thing under the gears?

[jhsmith87]

also can you tell me what differance the weight in oil makes?

[TQi]

where's shimmie neutron at?..

There's a thread or two on here showing how to shim your diffs, also youtube has a couple good videos.

basically you take these small washers (shims part number: Team associated 21141), and put them on the inside of the bearing on your differential. and they have to be on the "ring gear" side of the diff so that it pushes up against the pinion on the drive shaft. this prolongs your diff gears, especially if you like to hammer the throttle. everyones model is different so you might need 1 shim, or you might need 4 or more, you should keep rebuilding and taking apart until you get the shaft moving smoothly but with a little friction. That way you'll know the shims are doing their job.

the diff oil goes inside the differential itself, three screws unlock it and inside are three gears that work together to take strain off the half shafts (axles).. To my basic understanding of the difference in oil, the thicker stuff is better for onroad use (60-100) and the thinner stuff is good for offroad (30-50).. I don't know, I don't really understand it myself lol

[50togo]

Yes it does. Thicker oil puts more power to both tires. 50k is actually stock in the front diff 30k in the rear. But I run 50 /50. Shimming involves moving the ring gear closer to the pinion. Once you start making power number one cause of blown ring gears

[50togo]

Scroll down 13 posts to quick rpm mod help. I have the link there

[jhsmith87]

Scroll down 13 posts to quick rpm mod help. I have the link there

i didnt understand that??

but any way i am going to order the bulkhead today i am looking for on road speed so i will order 50k oil since that is what is in the back anyway. i guess i am going to have to look at some vids or something because i have had the front end of my car all apart other than the bulkhead taken apart and i have not seen any oil or where any oil would go without leaking out very quickly between the crack where the 2 parts of the bulkhead come thogether. maybe the videos will explain this a little more i am also going to have to check out the shim thing i dont understand that much either.

[b@3]

The diff oil goes inside the diff not the bulkhead.

[jhsmith87]

haha. yea i just seen that in the video. so i just ordered a new bulk head. and some new rims and tires. i ripped on of my old tires off trying to take it off to put tape on the inside of it. any solutions on how to get the old tire off more easily

[jhsmith87]

also how do ya'll handle stripped screw holes? the screw hole on the back that goes through the toelink hollow ball and into the rear bulk head has stripped does any one have a solution for this?

[Jimmie Neutron]

There are lots of ways to remove tires...

Acetone, boiling, baking... YouTube will yield some videos.

A drop of super glue will usually hold the screw in... don't worry, it will allow you to remove it still.

[50togo]

http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...-your-bulkhead not a video but this will give you an idea from neutron