Lots of questions needs lots of advice

[jhsmith87]

**** well i just got a voltage meter and every thing seems fine, i am now making to circuts one front one for back i guess i'll just have one switch now and leave the other ground wire tied together when i want it on and just take them apart when i want it off

[50togo]

Cool if that solves your problem pu a double pole switch when you can

[jhsmith87]

well i have tried it all now i dont know what it could be. i ran a circut for front lights same bulbs i run in the back without a switch still go dim. changed bulbs 5 times 5 different bulbs still same thing. i even got a flashligh that runs on 2aa batteries and use those batteries to power it. still no. tried a smaller wire, still going dim, bigger wire, still dim, and i tried every one of those things in all possible combonations. still go dim. i know you gotta be thinking there is something he is doing wrong, and i had to keep tellin my self that, but it is a simple circut, 2 wires from battery to 1st bulb, 2 wires off the wires going to 1st bulb going directly to second bulb, with circut ending there. the most basic circut you can have. and still same results no matter how many things i try. i guess if i want lights i'll have to buy the kit. or only have brake lights.

[50togo]

Chance of blowing out the bulb but try doubling the voltage

[jhsmith87]

o i got the lighting set the f*ck up now crome inserts to mount lights i got them running on two different circuts and powered each circut with a 1s lipo! in my opinion the best power source u can get for led lights. they are so tiny last so long and put out perfect voltage for the lights.
but now not only is my revo a POW from breaking the bulkhead, now i am to from trying to solder crap that never needed it like the wiring for the leds where electric tape would be just fine. i sat my gun down on my work taable while i reached for more solder, then grabed that d*mn thing like it was a pen, like "i dont even need to look at where im grabin that pen aint hot"

HOLLY SH*T THAT "PEN" IS F'IN HOT!! Now im down for the count my hand is wrapped up like i just got outta surgery or something...

[50togo]

Get better. Another reason I like my solder gun compared to my pen. Did that once too

[jhsmith87]

i have realized i am prolly the worst soldering person in the world there are more blilsters from burning my self and melted light bulbs than there is sucessfull solder points by at least 10 times

[jhsmith87]

what do you think about using lipo to power my lights though? its a 500mah 1c with 12c i tried using my reciever as a power supply but it makes the red bulbs orange and the white bulbs a greenish color

[50togo]

If its too much voltage from your receiver you could put a resistor inline to lower the voltage

[jhsmith87]

any one have a link on replacing front bulkhead

[50togo]

couldn't find a link but other than keeping track of different length bolts it's pretty easy only hard part is installing the front driveshaft here is jimmies post on shimming most diffs only need 1 or 2 shims front diff is 50k not 30k
1) Complete tear down; even the differentials
(not to be confused with the bulkheads)
2) Top off the differential with 30K
(or whichever weight you want to use. 30K is stock)
3) Clean excess grease off of ring and pinion
4) Clean up the interior of the bulkhead
5) Add 4 shims to proper side of differential between bearing and differential.
(not bearing and bulkhead)

(my reason for this location: this side of the bearing is greased, allowing the shims to slide on each other; hopefully not wearing down their thickness)
6) Install internal parts of bulkhead
(differential, pinion, ect)
7) Lightly lubricate the ring and pinion with a dry lube.
(this is to help resist the attraction of dirt)
8) Bolt up the lower skid plate
(it holds the bottom half of the bulkhead together)
8) Install long bolt holding two halves together
(snug it up, do not over-tighten)
10) Spin the drive shaft attached to the pinion. It should spin with slight resistance. If you have to work to spin it, there are too many shims. Remove one shim, repeat the process.
With that being said: mine spun nicely except for one spot where the teeth on the ring had a few nubs. In that location, it was more difficult to spin, but not hard to spin. If that makes sense. lol

This is how I set mine up. I have had 0 issues with gear mesh... no clicking, even when slamming it into reverse or forward while it is still rolling. No issues with binding either. When I set it up, my theory was that the new ring and pinion need to wear into each other while pushing the flex of the plastic bulkhead near its max.

I ended up with 3 shims in each bulkhead.
Associated 21141. They come with 4 shims per pack.

I have yet to tear it down to see how things are wearing into one another, but I imagine that the tooth surfaces of the gears are shiny. Just as they are in a properly meshed 1:1.

Oh, a few more tips:
1) Pay attention to what side the ring is on in the bulkhead!
2) After setup, I did not go out and run a full pack through it. I ran it a little, then let it cool down. This might not matter at all, it is just how 1:1 gears are broke in.
3) Take your time. Don't be rushed. Setting this up properly will save you in the long run!

[jhsmith87]

i cant see how to mount the part that goes to the servo to the bulk head.

[50togo]

look at the picture of the bulkhead jimmie sent you near the end of the skinny part you will see a tiny notch there the steering post the t looking thing that goes through the servo saver fits tightly between both bulkheads

[jhsmith87]

o ok so no screws there right? so only one screw holds the two sides together?

[50togo]

Yep slide the pin out and you are there

[jhsmith87]

no screw only a pin?

[50togo]

you have to slide the pin out of the way to get to the screw

[50togo]

look at the picture you will see the bolt hole on the left side bulkhead

[jhsmith87]

question: about shimming, what size shims do i need? plastic or metal? i dont have a hobby shop around here and i dont want to wait for them by ordering, so i was going to go to the hardware store and pick some up if they had them. what size do i need? and does it matter if i put it on the pinion or the spur part of the diff? also if i put it on the pinion do i need to put it between the gear itself and the berring or can i put it between the berring and berring housing?
the sizes i need to know is what size does the inside hole need to be, the diameter, and the thickness.

[Jimmie Neutron]

This information has been given to you:
http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...=1#post5153713

It was also suggested to read the entire thread:
http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...=1#post5153747

Even parts of this thread has been copy-pasted to this one:
http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...=1#post5156639

[jhsmith87]

also i seen some vids about locking the diff and/or "real limited slip" any advantage to that? or is there any other good mods i could do to my diffs before i reinstall?

[Jimmie Neutron]

You will loose a lot of steering control if you lock the differential.
This also adds stress to these already weak (in my opinion) parts.

You can limit the slip by installing thicker fluids.

[jhsmith87]

This information has been given to you:
http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...=1#post5153713

It was also suggested to read the entire thread:
http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...=1#post5153747

Even parts of this thread has been copy-pasted to this one:
http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...=1#post5156639

the first link is for a tmaxx does it have the same size diffs? so i could use the same size washers? i figured it would be smaller since my revo is 1/16 and the tmaxx to my knowledge is 1/10 (could be wrong)

[Jimmie Neutron]

The info is here:

Setting up your bulkhead
http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...-your-bulkhead

[jhsmith87]

i still can not find the size of the washers and wether they are steel, or nylon. like i said im going to the hardware store so i will need the inside, & outside diameter, and the thickness. and in what unit of mesurement it is in. i seen on your post in another thread they are .324 x .409 x .005 i dont know what unit the size is in what material, or if witch number represents witch mesurement. i.e. thick x wide x diameter, or visa versa

[50togo]

Search 21141 associated you will not find them in a hardware store!

[jhsmith87]

i still can not find the size of the washers and wether they are steel, or nylon. like i said im going to the hardware store so i will need the inside, & outside diameter, and the thickness. and in what unit of mesurement it is in. i seen on your post in another thread they are .324 x .409 x .005 i dont know what unit the size is in what material, or if witch number represents witch mesurement. i.e. thick x wide x diameter, or visa versa

[50togo]

I measured mine they are 8mm id x 10mm od x
08mm. You with have to order them.

[jhsmith87]

ok thanks alot. i will check my hardware store since i am right next to it. they have a whole isle for washers and stuff. if they dont have it i guess i will just order.

any other mods i should check into with the diffs?

[50togo]

Other than diff oil you will be good

[jhsmith87]

got my diffs back together noticed there was a small clear shim on the input gear already??? didnt know it was there but glad i seen it, it could have easily slid off and fell to the floor with out any notice.

also i did a few mods to parts of the car since i had it all stripped down. let me know what ya'll think..
I dyed the chassis black, along with the rockers.
I went ahead and took apart the rear diff and cleaned it out and refilled it with 50k oil
Same to front diff. i noticed that if i tightned the screws on the diffs all the way down the gears wouldnt spin is that normal?

Also i read on a thread that jimmy gave me where i guy had alum. bulk heads and he filled his bulkhead with thick oil like
100k and he claimed it gave him more power to the wheels cause it didnt "diff out as much".
I looked at my stock ones and noticed that could not be done as the bulkhead is not sealed. So what I done was i got some gasket maker stuff from the auto parts store and made a gasket to seal the bulkhead so i could do the same. what do ya'll think about that?

also I thourghly cleaned all the parts first with rubbing alcohol then lubed the moving parts with a cleaner that is used on electronics, safe on plastic, and is alot like WD-40 it lubes, but also protects, it leaves like a thin layer of clear coat type stuff on witch repels dust a debris on non moving parts. on parts that move it acts more like WD-40.

what do ya'll think about this? i know the cleaning thing is always good. mostly asking input on the gasket, and the part about the gears not turning when i tightned the screws on the diff all the way down.

[50togo]

don't snug up those 3 bolts on the diff too much i put an small allen and hold one end and give it a turn to make sure it's not binding. filling the bulkhead is not necessary and will probably use soak up some power to turn it keep your seal but put a small amount of grease (synthetic?) is all it needs

[jhsmith87]

ok cool. i didnt think filling the bulkhead up was wise, but a guy on a thread here claimed it put more power on the ground and kept it from "diffing out as much" what ever that means

[50togo]

That would happen from too thick of oil in the diff! Would act like a spool

[jhsmith87]

So diffing out is kinda like your diffs are spinning but not turning the wheels?

[jhsmith87]

so if i did tighten the screw on the diff to much what is the worst thing that could happen?

[50togo]

no like on a 1/4 mile race car - straight line only - in a turn both tires will spin the same causing the inside tire to loose traction and slide

[jhsmith87]

got ya... but i am worried that i may have tightned the screw on the diff to much i made them tight, then backed off untill the gears spun but not completly freely, still some resistance. so what would be the worst thing that could happen if they were to tight and what would be the worst if they were to loose?

[50togo]

you will have some resistance 50k oil is pretty thick. it will be hard to turn but not have a binding feel.if you have a bad feeling about it pull it apart and check it .hard to say i had mine too tight once ran it didn't sound right ,it was too tight.very hard on the spider gears and will cause them to wear

[jhsmith87]

ive seen pictures of peoples revos and they have a much wider stance than stock. not just wider tires but looks like wider a arms and all. is this something you can actually do? if so where could i buy parts to do it at?