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  1. #1
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    Lots of questions needs lots of advice

    This is my first hobby grade car and i really enjoy it i am buying all kinds of upgrades today. so suggestions in upgrades would be nice. i have tons of question mostly concerning gearing, shocks ans suspensision but for now the most important one is.

    question: my front tires will not line up straight. kinda the opposite of toe in or out. i just had to replace an arm and once i got it all back on i noticed my front tires will not both be straight at the same time. if i point the right tire straight the left front tire points hard to the left and same if i point the right tire straight the left tire points hard out to the right i took it apart and looked closley and nothing is broken and nothing is not screwed in or on backwards or what have you. i have a pic i will try to post it here if i can but if not just try to imagine what im talking about i think i made it kinda clear.

    one front tire is straight the other is pointed sharply to the outside.

    PLEASE HELP!!!

  2. #2
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    need to adjust the billow balls on one wheel
    Xtreme has no limiits

  3. #3
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    billow balls?? is that the balls that you use to adjust toe in and toe out? if so that is not what is wrong with it i have tried to adjust those it makes the wheel adjust from in and out not left to right

  4. #4
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    Everyone asks this question first time they brake an arm, Mossie is correct. Also a good upgrade would be adjustable push rods and toe links.

    http://buy.traxxas.com/default.php?c...557_10697_9203
    Last edited by pooochie; 04-18-2012 at 10:48 AM.

  5. #5
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jimmie Neutron's Avatar
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    You don't need to upgrade to get this fixed.

    If your front tires are similar to this: \ / that means you have excessive toe out. I actually run with a little toe out in front, so I would reduce, but not eliminate the toe out by doing the following:

    To adjust toe, both pillow balls need to be adjusted at the same time.

    When you screw them in, you get more toe in.
    When you screw them out, you get more toe out.

    Just be sure that both pillow balls are adjusted the same amount from side to side.
    The best way to do that is to center your servo and perform the adjustments with the car and radio on.
    Whatever it is I just said... I could be wrong.

  6. #6
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    ok i am about to buy some parts i know i need the part where the balls go into the part the wheel is connected to well the stock one is cracked and i see they have axle carriers witch is what i believe i need. but i also see these steering blocks? so witch ones do i need if i want to replace all 4 of these on my car. do the steering blocks and axle carriers go together. also i am getting rpm arms along with harder shocks thicker oil (i do all my driving on the pavment). and i seen these toe links and push rods and wanted these since i am trying to stay with an all blue, black and touch of crome color no red. O and also thinking about alum. piggy back shocks.
    tell me what you think.
    http://www.teamstrc.com/index.php?ro...product_id=470

  7. #7
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    i am having a problem buying an axel carrier on ebay there are products that are called axle carriers that look excatly the same so it the part the piviot balls go in and the wheel sits on if i want to replace that whole part what do i need an axle carrier or a steering block

  8. #8
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jimmie Neutron's Avatar
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    Is this it?

    These are called by a handful of names...
    steering blocks, axle carriers, pillow blocks, knuckles, ect.

    HR, GPM, and GH all make a decent knuckle. GPM and GH are easier to assemble because they use a plastic pillow ball adjuster instead of an aluminum pillow ball adjuster like HR. But due to the threads being metal on metal in HR knuckles, the threads need to be perfect -and they are not always perfect.

    PM me the link to the eBay part... I can tell you if it is the right part or not.

    Piggy back shocks in this size do not provide much benefit...
    they are more for looks.

    From what I read on here, you are going to want to stay away from aluminum links and rods... the only ones that seem to hold up are the stainless steel ones or the titanium.
    Last edited by Jimmie Neutron; 04-18-2012 at 11:26 AM.
    Whatever it is I just said... I could be wrong.

  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    I have had a 50mph crash into the curb. Traxxas tie rods and push rods held up fine though I lost a t bone 7151x yanked right out of the hub

  10. #10
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    the plastic Knuckles sux !!!!! they are getting lots of movement after a couple of runs

    better switch to a better brand like rpm or hr for them
    Xtreme has no limiits

  11. #11
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    i just ordered some integy alum knuckles. (please forgive me) but i am assuming knuckles and axle carriers are the same thing

  12. #12
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jimmie Neutron's Avatar
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    Top of post #8 explains what you are doubting... with pictures even!!

    Hope you are one of the rare people that don't have issues with Integy.
    Whatever it is I just said... I could be wrong.

  13. #13
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    integy sux big time made that noob mistake once
    Powered by Castle

  14. #14
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    I actually don't know anybody who have the integy knuckles... this will be an interesting report.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by erx4x4 View Post
    integy sux big time made that noob mistake once
    well crap i done ordered before i got a chance to come see the responses. it was a spur of the moment thing.
    but you say you've tried them or you've made that noob mistake before i am asuming you've tried them. what was wrong with them? how did they not hold up to what you expected? and how if they are worse than stock ones?

    also so not integy alum. or alum at all i am assuming, witch ones should i get? i dont want them cracking like the stock ones do so easily?

  16. #16
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    He meant just the brand itself. You may be the only one that has ordered them, and we expect you to report on the quality.
    I dont think he has them.

    What we mean about integy is that its very risky with their products. Mixed reviews acrossed the board, but one thing stands is that their alloy of aluminum is too soft.

    I myself am NOT an integy hater, but i also havent ordered anynthing people have warned about. I have ran their wheels, roll cage, heat sink and front aluminum skid plate. All where OK to me. The cage is great, nice and strong, protects tremendously, and fits perfectly under the shell. With no problems.

    When it comes to axle carriers/ steering blocks/ etc (there all the same) the concensus here is Horizon Racing Aluminum or GPM. Some people like RPM but the plastic wears WAY to quick.

    I myself run Horizons carriers. and the color is super fast blue!!! Unlike krallopians theory that black is faster.
    Define Spam...

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wileybrett View Post
    He meant just the brand itself. You may be the only one that has ordered them, and we expect you to report on the quality.
    I dont think he has them.

    What we mean about integy is that

    its very risky with their products. Mixed reviews acrossed the board, but one thing stands is that their alloy of aluminum is too soft. I myself am NOT an integy hater, but i also havent ordered anynthing people have warned about. I have ran their wheels, roll cage, heat sink and front aluminum skid plate. All where OK to me. The cage is great, nice and strong, protects tremendously, and fits perfectly under the shell. With no problems.

    When it comes to axle carriers/ steering blocks/ etc (there all the same) the concensus here is Horizon Racing Aluminum or GPM. Some people like RPM but the plastic wears WAY to quick.

    I myself run Horizons carriers. and the color is super fast blue!!! Unlike krallopians theory that black is faster.
    thank you i was looking for metal ones and all i knew about was integy and i ordered before i was warned but thanks for letting me know of the others.
    i will be sure to report back.
    untill then i need a new spur gear i mostly bash no racing just speed runs i use 2 nihm stock batteries and the switch between the pinions it came with any suggestions on what tooth spur i should get and why or what benifit it has?

  18. #18
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    If you are running them in series stick around 23/50 and get a decent temp gun

  19. #19
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    Well the manual says to run the 28 tooth I think that's how many it is. But based on the manual if your supposed to use the high speed pinion with two packs could you get a pinion with a tooth number somewhere in the middle maybe more close to the number of the high speed one and still b safe?

  20. #20
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jimmie Neutron's Avatar
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    That depends on temperature.
    If you are running 180°F with the "speed" pinion, which is 23 tooth
    -what the manual says to run when running in series-
    you cannot gear any higher without burning something up.
    Whatever it is I just said... I could be wrong.

  21. #21
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    So as long as I can stay under 180?
    So I could keep going with a bigger pinion as long as I stay under that temp?
    Community question!! What's everyones favorite set up gear wise? And what do u do wit that set up, race, bash, or all around? How long can u run on it, how hot does it get do u have to use fans?

    Just seeing what other people like and how it performs..

  22. #22
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    You should upgrade to lipos we geared my friends stock revo 25/50 he runs 2 cell in the dirt and a 3 cell for speed runs. With a Traxxas heat sink doesn't get too hot and he can wheelie over a 100 feet if he wants

  23. #23
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jimmie Neutron's Avatar
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    Fans are a waste.
    With proper body ventilation you will move more air than any 6 volt fan that fits under the shell.
    This is because you are moving... moving generates air flow.

    Besides, they usually stop working at the first crash. lol


    AND
    Fans and heat sinks do not solve heat issues.
    Proper gearing solves heat issues.
    Fans and heat sinks help vehicles run cooler that do not have heat issues.
    Whatever it is I just said... I could be wrong.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by 50togo View Post
    You should upgrade to lipos we geared my friends stock revo 25/50 he runs 2 cell in the dirt and a 3 cell for speed runs. With a Traxxas heat sink doesn't get too hot and he can wheelie over a 100 feet if he wants
    So one 3 cell is faster than 2 2 cells wit same gear?

  25. #25
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    Yes a single 3s battery is faster than 2 2s batteries. Being becasue it is a very unwise desicion to run 2 - 2s batteries in series.

    Only run them in parallel so you double your run times. I only run 2s batteries in my slash/merv. Reason being i dont own 3s yet, kinda nervous that ill burn something up. I bash stupid hard hard as is, dont need more problems/ money spent.
    Define Spam...

  26. #26
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    so 3 s is faster but is so much more voltage you risk burning something up? also could you run two 3s in parrallel and be super fast for a long time?

  27. #27
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jimmie Neutron's Avatar
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    3S is safer than 2 stock NiMh in series.
    3S in parallel is ok, just watch temps as they tend to build up over time.
    Whatever it is I just said... I could be wrong.

  28. #28
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    would 3s be faster than 2 nihm in series with same gear ratio?

  29. #29
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    After the initial hit 3's will be faster because they will pull hard to the end were nihm loose power right away

  30. #30
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    cool and i've heard 4s packs just wont fit in the battery compartment? right?

  31. #31
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jimmie Neutron's Avatar
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    The ESC is not technically capable of 4S.
    I am sure there is a battery that will fit.
    Whatever it is I just said... I could be wrong.

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jimmie Neutron View Post
    The ESC is not technically capable of 4S.
    I am sure there is a battery that will fit.
    So the stock esc won't handle 4s?

  33. #33
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jimmie Neutron's Avatar
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    No.

    You have to turn off LVD, putting the ESC into NiMh mode to run 4S.
    4S is too much voltage for the stock ESC.
    Whatever it is I just said... I could be wrong.

  34. #34
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Just run 3's for speed runs you will be happy

  35. #35
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    What's the advantage of running dual servos?

  36. #36
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jimmie Neutron's Avatar
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    Double torque and shared shock load.
    Whatever it is I just said... I could be wrong.

  37. #37
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    The only advantage would be if you were running two weaker servos combined they would be a bit stronger and it looks cool. But one good servo will be more than enough and you don't have to worry about dialing them in to sync properly

  38. #38
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    So basically better handling?

  39. #39
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Better steering response and will take more abuse

  40. #40
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    just got integy adjustable pushrods in today just got them on and so far seems pretty cool. by having the adjustable pusrods when i adjust them what does it change? i know it changes something with the tire but i am not sure any one that can help?

    also got the integy alum. axle carriers installed havent tested them out yet but i will update on those soon.
    i got rpm a arms and new shock springs to one set of each color but these shock springs seem to be longer no much longer or to long just longer than stock any one know anything about that

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