Sav÷x SA-1283SG single servo installed. Does everything look right?
Stock servo arm could not be used, so I just fitted the included Sav÷x servo arm. Do I need another/better servo arm?
It's connected without a BEC - it seems to work fine. How would I know if a BEC is required?
Performance seems great - much, much faster response than the 2 stock Traxxas servos, and very precise. Seems like a good buy.
Man those are nice chassis, makes for such a clean looking finished product.
I don't have shelf queens, I have bash kings!
Looks like the nut on your servo horn is scraping the chassis of your servo.
In the pictured setup, there's no issues at all. I would just have liked a more solid servo horn, like an alu one.
I just go a notification, the Castle BEC is on it's way to me. But I'm not sure if I'll need to use it?
Last edited by petraeus; 04-20-2012 at 01:48 PM.
Well - a strong servo is nice. But now the stock servo saver (with black spring) seems very weak to me. Any one else having that?
I don't remember that was an issue with twin servos - maybe the design is best using twin servos?
Otherwise this could be next:
SuperMaxx™ Servo Saver System For Traxxas T&E-Maxx:
Last edited by petraeus; 04-20-2012 at 03:58 PM.
That's a nice looking servo saver.
I'm pretty sure the servo and servo horn are fitted correct, since everything works fine. On the pictures, theres full right steering.
Your servo is on the correct way. Not sure how long that plastic servo horn is going to last though.
As far as the BEC goes if your not having any issues don't worry about it.
Ready to Run :-)
Red is my favorite.....
Wow, sick looking truck.
"I like rc cars"....."WHAT? YOU'RE KIDDING!"
sure is nice !
To me, no truck looks better than the E-Maxx.
I just wish the UE Supershocks was already on it - have to wait 2 weeks or so, until I receive them from US.
The Savox plastic servo horn is just temporarely - a Hudy alu horn is on it's way to me.
Also did this little mod to the stock servo saver today to tighten up the black spring. It really helps.
Not my picture though....
Last edited by petraeus; 04-21-2012 at 04:18 PM.
Great looking maxx !
Did you find a SuperMaxx Servo Saver System on ebay ? I ask that because it's really really hard to find one...
Personally I like the Traxxas steering bellcrank, with the black spring and bearings all around it's flawless.
Even I modded the stock servo saver to tighten the spring, it's still to loose. With the truck standing still on tarmac, the servo saver jumps in, causing wheels not to give full steering. As soon as I run the truck slowly forward, full stearing is there. And I can tell you, it's not because the servo is weak for sure!
Had my first session with the truck today. I'm still waiting for my UE Supershocks, and since I just might sell the brand new Traxxas Big Bores, instead I installed the 3mm longer Traxxas Ultrashocks with 30wt oil (all I had, at the moment). It felt a little to the soft side.
Started out with very, very careful driving. Exciting to run a new truck you just build from scratch yourself.
The truck runs amazingly well. It tracks perfectly straight, so glad I used 3K rear/ 7k front in diffs - seems like the right choice
I had expected it to be slow with 20t pinion, but it's quite fast actually - and it now got an even better sound than earlier - must be a combo of the diffs and alu chasisis.
With the soft suspension it runs very smooth at speed on my favorite bashing site - a grass field with sand dunes, and nice 5-8 feet high "humps", but bottoms out if jumped too high. Suspension surely needs tuning. So does servo saver - it very was clear, even running on grass.
I did not install a BEC - wouldn't know if I needed one..
More than 2 months I've waited to run my EMBUE - so glad today.
In the time waiting I had to run my ThunderTiger MT4 G3 a lot more than I liked - I will never like that truck, no matter what. Not once have I been driving that Lemon, without some minor thing breaking - simply anoying
Added a little O-ring to support the wheelie bar, preventing it to get loose. I like running with the wheelie bar - acts a little as an extra bumper.
Duct taped the black body inside at body posts, an added duct tape, strategic places outside.
Overall a success - ran 3 sets of batteries, without any issues at all. A great day
Last edited by petraeus; 04-22-2012 at 03:28 PM.
when I went to HV single servo I put 4 shims on the top of the saver spring and it all worked out
Today I received the extended diff stub axles FLM sent me.
Compared to the stub axles included in the FLM Ultimate Hybrid Bulk:
Short stub axles are 21.7 mm
Long stub axles are 22.8 mm
Short stubs installed in diff
Long stub axles installed in diff
With the long stub axles it's a perfect fit using stock Traxxas Drive Shaft Axles
But when I took the rear apart, this came to my attention:
The FLM 10900 chassis included rear dogbone was already broken..
This after running 3 sets of 4s lipo. My question is:
Could this be fixed, or do I need a new shaft?
How is that little pin connected to the shaft?
Could it be hammered or drilled out and replaced by maybe a short piece of injector pin?
A little help would be highly appreciated....
Last edited by petraeus; 04-23-2012 at 01:41 PM.
FLM will replace those for you. Very odd both ends broke like that.
^^ looks like a defective part indeed. I've never broken a FLM center dogbone. Call FLM.
I've contacted FLM - they answered very fast :-)
They'll replace the rear dogbone, but since I live in Denmark there's a shipping fee of USD15$
I tried to remove the pins, but it's impossible to push, press or hammer them out - tried several methods, they don't even move.
Now I've handed it over to the workshop guy in my company - he would take care it, he said.
Maybe he would have to drill the pins out - FLM already included 2 replacement pins in the FLM10900 bag, to be used.
Last edited by petraeus; 04-24-2012 at 05:02 AM.
I had to pay shipping when they replaced mine so I bought a second just in case.
Truck is looking good, see the tailgate is starting to take a beating on the black body. Shoe goo will help there.
We didn't manage to fix the damaged driveshift.
So I have to wait now until new ones from FLM arrives. I ordered a spare one - it was 7.50$.
It actually seems to me, the FLM rear driveshaft (dogbone) is maybe just a litte too long? - and this is what caused the damage to it?
I might try to install a HPI Vorza Flux rear dogbone - its 110 mm and could be too short. And I don't know if it fits drivecups?
Jumped out and took the Vorza apart. Nope, Vorza driveshaft just a tiny fraction too long. The 110 mm is measured center/center pins. The FLM is about 108mm.
Drivecups did fit perfect though.
Do you have any pics of the flm drive shaft in the truck? Is it possible the new pinion shaft is longer than the stock pinion shaft?
I am running the Hybrid Bulks also I had to use fuel tubing in the cups to take up slack of the dogbone sliding back and forth
I don't recall there were so much slack, using the FLM driveshaft that fuel tubing was needed.
hyper 9 rear dog bone is 108mm
You should take a measurement with the drive cups still attached. Take a measurement for the longest you think will work and the shortest that will work.
Let me get back to the FLM extended stub shafts for the Caster Racing diffs. With diffs shimmed correctly to the Ultimate Bulkhead, the stock plastic driveshafts did fit perfect at the Rear.
At the Front, I needed to sand just a little on the left differential yoke (5458x)to let the axle run smooth. But this will depend on how diffs are shimmed.
Front diff had only the FLM provided thick shim at the gear side. The non gear side needed 7x0.2mm shims!
I thought the damaged rear FLM driveshaft was trashed, but my collegue actually fixed it, and handed it over to me the other day
So I installed, and it seems to fit great.
Diffs are installed with the extended FLM stub shafts, diff oil front is 7k, rear is 3k.
Regarding my order on UE Supershocks - I've not heard a word from Robin @ UE, althoug he picked up the money I've send with Western Union 6 days ago - I'm expecting the worst case....
So the Traxxas Big bores was installed again, this time using 50wt silicone oil. Seems pretty nice dialed to me.
My EMBUE is back in action :-)
As you can see here I'm using EC5 connecters - I like those a lot better than the Traxxas connectors.
Traxxas connectors typically handles 40-70 Amps.
EC5 conncetors typically handles 120 Amps.
When it comes to connectors, to big is always better than too small!
Also installed some 8 mm carbon fiber tubes, to act as shock tower braces - don't want to risk those FLM alu shoctowers bending.
And a rubber O-ring to support the wheelie bar
Hopefully I'll be able to post a bashing video - don't expect much, I'm not a real hardcore basher
Last edited by petraeus; 04-28-2012 at 12:41 PM.
"I like rc cars"....."WHAT? YOU'RE KIDDING!"
Good news. I've sent a couple of mails to Robin@UE about my order on UE Supershocks, without getting an answer. I was pretty sure my money was lost. Then suddenly he replied shortly like this: "On the way". And then minutes later an email stating order shipped
I've been doing some good bashing sessions, even tried to shoot some video, but it didn't turn out to my liking
So far nothing broken - this truck really seems durable. I simply love running my E-Maxx.
But I do notice that speed is somewhat lower than earlier when using stock diffs and 20t/68t.
So I've ordered a 22t Robinson Racing Extra Hard 5mm Bore .8 Module(31.75P) pinion
which I'm planning to combine with a 62t spur. This should be just a little higher geared than my original 20t/68t stock diff setup.
What gearing do you other guys have success with on an E-Maxx using 1/8 scale diffs?
Last edited by petraeus; 05-01-2012 at 04:24 PM.
Nice truck you got there! I love my FLM chassis as well, but have had issues with the batts falling out. Going to get some trays to install and fix that.
I'm curious, where did you come up with the cf braces between the towers? It looks like an excellent idea!
I test the durability of objects crossing paths.
I think shock tower braces is not a new idea, but I didn't see it installed on an E-Maxx earlier. When using FLM towers there's just enough clearance to use 8 mm rods (or tubes) not to touch the motor on right side. Also 8 mm fits perfect at the top of shock tower.
I couldn't find any 8 mm alu (tube or rod) that seemed solid so I chose Carbon Fiber rods, which also are very light, not adding to much top weight to the truck. A 8mm CF tube is just as stiff as a 8mm CF rod, but I had small issues of making the attachment to the shock tower solid, so instead I now use 8mm CF rods.
I would have preferred to use the XO-1 alu center drive shaft. Actually I've been searching for measurements, but without luck so far. The construction is very light and stiff (I know from my Slash 4x4)
It needs to be at least 32,8cm long and max 9 mm diameter. If anyone have exactly measurements of it, please step forward