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  1. #1
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    Question T-Maxx 4910 VS T-Maxx 4907

    Hey guys,

    I have been trying to find information on this since last week. But I cannot find the information I am looking for. I need parts for my T-Maxx to get the reverse working but I am not sure what all I may need. I see a t-maxx 4907 (mostly) and t-maxx 4910. I just bought a T-Maxx Classic 4910 but according to the seller it needs 'everything' to get the reverse back. I know, what exactly is everything?!

    But, aside from the 4910 being only 3/4ths the length of the 4907 and the shaft size difference. Can someone tell me if the parts are all the same for each or do I have to look for part specific for the 4910? As I am not entirely sure what all was done in removing the 'reverse' out of the truck. This has me a bit concerned as the seller did NOT disclose this until after the sale was closed.

    So I am coming to the community to help me know the differences. I will know more what is needed for the truck once it gets here. I am the proud owner of a Nitro 4-Tec. So I am getting acquainted with Fuel Powered toys like this. This will be my first truck.

    Thank you all for who help me in getting the facts straight with this truck. (too busy on a project to get the specifics)

    Best Regards,
    Doc
    4-Tec 4809 | T-Maxx 4910 | Bandit VXL 2704L

  2. #2
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    The transmissions are completely different. As you have a 4910 you will have the black transmission.

    I am assuming that the seller installed a Foward-only kit in the transmission. If that is the the case the fix is pretty simple. Traxxas made forward only versions of the t-maxx years ago and still make a reverse kit for those trucks. Part number: 5194x. It will have everything you need including the servo. Arround $50-60.

    You could also pick up a complete transmission with reverse and a servo off eBay for about $70-80 or so.

    You may even luck up and post an add in the market place on here. Alot of guys took the reverse out of thier 4910 to reduce the rotating mass. They could still be holding onto those reverse parts in a bag somewhere like I did. If I knew where mine was I would just mail it to you for postage.
    Pay It Forward.

  3. #3
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    Thanks for the tip. I made note of your part number and will take a look into it. But this part number is for the SportMaxx (S-Maxx), is there a difference? Parts look the same like my baby brother's revo. Guess I am going to have to compare part in that kit. Like I said, I do not know all of what is there and what is not. Part Number 4995X, but not sure if it is for the t-maxx 4910. Shows this is for the T-Maxx 4908. Which one is best?

    The Transmission looks almost identical to the Revo 3.3 from the T-Maxx 4910. My baby brother kept stripping out his spur gear. Took it to his LHS and they found out a ball bearing blew out on him. I am surprised he did not notice.

    Is a BB that hard to tell if it is in need of replacing. I would think there would be too much play. What is the indication of a bad ball bearing? Thing that make you go, why isn't this documented somewhere in the manuals. lol

    Thank you for the info OCD RC.

    Also, I see this term a lot; 'reduce rotating mass'. What does this refer to? Is this the ratio of engine RMP to Transmission or is this all within the transmission input to output?

    Sorry for the nuub question. I am on a knowledge hunt before my Truck gets here. But it is like my history teacher once told me. "There isn't any such thing as a dumb question. For it is known that the dumbest question is the one never asked!" It made you think in high school. But I am one who really doesn't care what people think of me. I am who I am, if you do not like it, well that is your problem, not mine. LOL

    Is there anything else different besides the Transmission and 3/4ths lengh?

    Thanks,
    Doc
    Last edited by pc.pro.doc; 04-13-2012 at 03:15 AM. Reason: 5194x is for S-Maxx (Sport Maxx) vs 4995X is for T-Max 4908?
    4-Tec 4809 | T-Maxx 4910 | Bandit VXL 2704L

  4. #4
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    Just purchased the Traxxas 5194X Sport Maxx Reversing Upgrade Mod New for 44.49 + 2.85 SH off ebay. The only part I can identify is the Servo 2018 which my parts list calls for, the other kit has a micro servo which I do not think will work with the T-Maxx Classic 4910.

    Hope this will work. The will be in after the truck gets here to investigate.

    Wish me luck this week! (crossing fingers).

    Doc
    4-Tec 4809 | T-Maxx 4910 | Bandit VXL 2704L

  5. #5
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Snook Man's Avatar
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    There are many differences besides the length (30mm) between the 4910 and the 4908/7 models.
    Longer chassis and chassis braces, transmission, brakes, center drives shafts and wheel shafts, differentials, axle carriers, toe links, steering system, engine and exhaust pipe, just to name a few

    Rotating mass is the total weight of all gears and shafts that spin in the transmission.
    Reverse requires several oz’s more rotating parts and some non rotating mechanical parts to work compared to a forward only conversion (FOC).

    As OCD said, most will remove reverse sooner or later. Due to the design when reverse equipped, the transmission is not as reliable/durable as when it is forward only. It is lighter/less rotating mass and will allow the engine to spool up to rpms quicker when forward only.
    Also when equipped with reverse that transmission has a bad habit of Bucking at lower rpms (due to the design).
    I personally would never revert/downgrade a FOC transmission back to reverse unless the person using it was handicapped in a way that it would be difficult to retrieve the truck if it was stuck.

    Changing a transmission bearing is a very simple process once you have the transmission in hand and the housing cracked open. Also the 4910 transmission is nothing like the revo transmission.
    No slipper/tall gearing/power = broken parts.

  6. #6
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Nitronaught's Avatar
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    Ah, I just made my 4910 into one of these.....
    Founder of H.U.A.
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  7. #7
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    @Snook Man: From the exploding views of the transmission box they looks almost identical based on the views of the drawings. As I assisted my brother in determining which gears he needed to replace on his Revo Transmission last month. Only to have his LHS find the BB was shot and chewing up his spur gear. But, WOW thanks for the heads up. I will be sure to buy part specifically for the 4910 truck. Thank you for sharing your wealth of knowledge, I had no idea.

    @Nitronaught How can one tell by this picture. I see a few abnormal placement parts, but really cannot see what you are referring to. This may be due to my lack of knowledge of these trucks for now.

    I am counting the days until my truck gets here.

    Doc
    4-Tec 4809 | T-Maxx 4910 | Bandit VXL 2704L

  8. #8
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Nitronaught's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pc.pro.doc View Post
    @Snook Man: From the exploding views of the transmission box they looks almost identical based on the views of the drawings. As I assisted my brother in determining which gears he needed to replace on his Revo Transmission last month. Only to have his LHS find the BB was shot and chewing up his spur gear. But, WOW thanks for the heads up. I will be sure to buy part specifically for the 4910 truck. Thank you for sharing your wealth of knowledge, I had no idea.

    @Nitronaught How can one tell by this picture. I see a few abnormal placement parts, but really cannot see what you are referring to. This may be due to my lack of knowledge of these trucks for now.

    I am counting the days until my truck gets here.

    Doc
    What I am saying is if you are going to go to the extent of changing the driveline, the transmission, the chassis, the steering setup, the a-arms,,, you could probably go into a direction that would be even better than a stock 4907 for about the same price...

    What you see here is a 9.6 lbs 4 shock, 7075 T6 Dace Predator chassis, stronger faster, lighter than any stock 4907, more agile too....

    Just saying you might want to look further since your talking about a total makeover except a few items.....
    Founder of H.U.A.
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  9. #9
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    There are just so many parts for this thing. I would not even know where to start. I am not even certain as to what is even installed on the T-Maxx Classic at this point. I will need to asses her first. I am wondering if it would be worth making her a 4907, but that might be a bit on the extreme side. Still debating as to whether or not go all metal, might make her too heavy.

    If you are curious, take a look at the T-Maxx I bought on e-bay here.

    Any specific ideas of where I should start?

    Thanks in advance!
    Last edited by pc.pro.doc; 04-14-2012 at 12:39 AM. Reason: Added link of T-Maxx Purchase
    4-Tec 4809 | T-Maxx 4910 | Bandit VXL 2704L

  10. #10
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. troutfisher9's Avatar
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    The ebay listing says that the truck has reverse and only the servo is missing. I don't think you need that reverse kit. Sounds to me like all you need is a servo, which you can pick up for about $10 on ebay.
    With a purposeful grimace and a terrible sound...

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by pc.pro.doc View Post
    There are just so many parts for this thing. I would not even know where to start. I am not even certain as to what is even installed on the T-Maxx Classic at this point. I will need to asses her first. I am wondering if it would be worth making her a 4907, but that might be a bit on the extreme side. Still debating as to whether or not go all metal, might make her too heavy.

    If you are curious, take a look at the T-Maxx I bought on e-bay here.

    Any specific ideas of where I should start?

    Thanks in advance!
    all metal is not good, ive been there it doesnt work out, as have others on the forum...

    as for wieght personally it doesnt bother me, but thats up to the user, im used to driving my mgt8.0 that wieghs 14lbs so my maxx will never hit as hard as it does and its more built then my mgt

    these are the places you never want to be aluminum,
    a-arms
    body posts
    bumpers and bumper mounts
    skids/debatable i like alum. skids, alot of people dont...most just put rpm wear plates over the stock skids...

    if you want aluminum start with bulks,shock towers, and chassis braces... above all dont buy integy....
    Last edited by kuskye25; 04-14-2012 at 01:44 AM.
    Traxxas is good, but so are other Manus

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by troutfisher9 View Post
    The ebay listing says that the truck has reverse and only the servo is missing. I don't think you need that reverse kit. Sounds to me like all you need is a servo, which you can pick up for about $10 on ebay.
    In a message right before the bid ended, this is what the seller tells me.
    Quote Originally Posted by E-Bay Seller
    ...i must warn you every one of my friends has a T-maxx and they all never use reverse because is extremely hard to tune it good enough so that it will stay running inbetween shifts but this is just my opinion. you will also need the actuall linkage and everything too. im sure the traxxas dealer can tell you what you need there might even be the parts needed in the tool box i dk i bought it and fixed it up myself..
    Based on this, I cannot go by what the seller posted, for 45 bucks, I took a chance in getting the entire kit rather than just the servo. So it got me thinking about what else could be wrong or incorrect. Hmmmmmm.
    4-Tec 4809 | T-Maxx 4910 | Bandit VXL 2704L

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by kuskye25 View Post
    all metal is not good, ive been there it doesnt work out, as have others on the forum...

    as for wieght personally it doesnt bother me, but thats up to the user, im used to driving my mgt8.0 that wieghs 14lbs so my maxx will never hit as hard as it does and its more built then my mgt

    these are the places you never want to be aluminum,
    a-arms
    body posts
    bumpers and bumper mounts
    skids/debatable i like alum. skids, alot of people dont...most just put rpm wear plates over the stock skids...

    if you want aluminum start with bulks,shock towers, and chassis braces... above all dont buy integy....
    From the photos, it looks like there is some metal parts on this already. Looks like the upper parts of the arms are already metal. I will know more details once she gets here and I dive in to her. So only time will tell.

    From the looks of the tracker (which has not updated since the 13th from our lovely USPS) estimated delivery is the 18th, the same day the reverse kit is due in to be here.

    Doc
    4-Tec 4809 | T-Maxx 4910 | Bandit VXL 2704L

  14. #14
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    Got my T-Maxx truck in on Monday morning. What a nightmare!! Why is it I buy a Nitro model on ebay and there is never a wrench to adjust the turnbuckles! I have about lost my faith in buying these things used. Also, both differentials had bearings blown out, the one in the rear so bad the little balls in the bearing were EMBEDDED in the differential housing! Also transmission went. The pin snapped inside. Luckily the Reverse Kit I bought had that replacement pin in here to get up and running. I used all parts from the kit to replace old existing ones in the transmission housing.

    I need to get a 3.3 TRX for this thing. Everyone shows the same engine for all models, but I know this is simply NOT true. The 4-Tec has a longer shaft for its clutch bell where as the Revo and T-Maxx (and perhaps others) only have a single gear on their clutch bells. Am I right or am I totally off on this? Any one have a part number for the engine assembly for these that would be helpful.

    I have an extra 3.3 TRX sitting here but it came off of my 4-Tec model. The real pain in butt is I cannot even get the 2.5 TRX cooling head off this crankcase from the T-Maxx. If I could, I could use the connecting rod to hook up the 3.3 but not sure about the issue with the crankshaft.

    And the metal parts on this thing... INTEGRITY. Not good as the ball joint lock downs are just about all broken from what I can see of them. I do not know what they should look like. But this T-Maxx was heavily neglected regarding maintenance and that scares the **** outta me!

    Thanks for any advice,
    Doc
    Last edited by pc.pro.doc; 04-18-2012 at 04:05 PM.
    4-Tec 4809 | T-Maxx 4910 | Bandit VXL 2704L

  15. #15
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    I bought an used e max off eBay. Never again it was missing the motor and esc. Was told it was a brushless. It wasn't! It had lots of aftermarket parts. It would have cost e a small fortune to fix it. I just stripped it and used most of the parts on my t maxx. The rest of the parts are related to Chassies lenth. Roll bar, braces, and shock towers, body mounts. I'll put them back on eBay and sell them. I'll just buy a new brushless e maxx when I'm ready!

  16. #16
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Snook Man's Avatar
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    Unfortunately used is used and 1 never knows what may show up at the door.

    The Tmaxx and 4Tec use the same engine and crankshaft just a different clutch bell, the engine is part # 5407 its the standard IPS shaft that all the current 3.3 Nitro models use.
    No slipper/tall gearing/power = broken parts.

  17. #17
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    yeah used rc's i only buy off craigslist/locally, i go look at it make them run it or i wont buy... sorry to hear the about the issues man, but the only way you can really learn is to buy a lemon, and we all have at some point
    Traxxas is good, but so are other Manus

  18. #18
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    Aside from the source of purchase. I am tired of having to 'rebuild' them, not to mention having to replace with the correct parts and screws. Such a pain when people 'rig' up their models. I found out the header exhaust is totally rigged up. Looks like it has my 4-Tec header with a modified pipe, perhaps from the original one, and two different exhaust couplings holding it all together.

    I have broken bulkheads in the front and 'rigged' up suspension screws holding it all together. As I did have to replace the front differential due to wear. I have not taken the front differential apart yet to tell what exactly is worn, but I am going to guess a bearing.

    But all hope is not lost. I got the 2.5 TRX apart. She was too worn out as she would not start back up this afternoon. The sleeve was so worn out the piston went past TDC and the top of the sleeve once it was removed. I know that is a sure sign of a worn out part. So rather then fixing the 2.5 I was able to get the other 3.3 I had together with the parts from the 2.5. I used the crankshaft from the 2.5 and the connecting rod installed in the 3.3. I did not like the play where the connecting rod connected to the crankshaft. As the parts look identical so I used them. I do have plans within the next 7 - 14 days to replace the engine with a new 3.3. I also better get another gallon of Top Fuel 20%. lol

    I will be testing the replacement engine tomorrow. I feel like there is still transmission problems, she doesn't seem to shift into second. The engine revs up way too high and just seems unusual to me. As this will cause problems with the engine in the long run. Perhaps this is what happened to the 2.5, but I am not a traxxas engineer.

    This T-Maxx is getting frustrating, but I like the truck and the places I can drive her where I couldn't with the 4-Tec. I am determined to get this T-Maxx back to 'like-new' condition, tweaked out and take out all the wrong parts and replace them with the correct ones. I did it with the 4-Tec so I do not see why I cannot do it with the T-Maxx.

    Thanks for all the feed back guys. It's coming in handy and is helpful.

    Sincerely,
    Doc
    Last edited by pc.pro.doc; 04-19-2012 at 12:35 AM.
    4-Tec 4809 | T-Maxx 4910 | Bandit VXL 2704L

  19. #19
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    ok if its reving up and not moving as fast as it sounds like it should be your slipper clutch nut prolly needs tightened, if its how you say it may even need some parts replaced who knows, first id try just tightening it though... the trans shift point is easy to adjust reffer to your manual or get the manual as a download here on the traxxas site.... best of luck man, if you work at it itll be perfect eventually...
    Traxxas is good, but so are other Manus

  20. #20
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    4910

    hmm good luck to me on the 4910 that in the mail off ebay
    Last edited by bifft it; 04-19-2012 at 05:18 AM.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by kuskye25 View Post
    ok if its reving up and not moving as fast as it sounds like it should be your slipper clutch nut prolly needs tightened, if its how you say it may even need some parts replaced who knows, first id try just tightening it though... the trans shift point is easy to adjust reffer to your manual or get the manual as a download here on the traxxas site.... best of luck man, if you work at it itll be perfect eventually...
    Found out the spur gear and spur gear bushing BADLY ate the hole on the spur gear by a few millimeters. Replaced it with the original and it is doing the same thing. The spur gear spins the shaft like crazy, but I will tighten it up as recommended. I will replace the existing ones with new ones when I get a new spur gear and friction pads. I am going to take a look at the transmission later on tonight and have a look at the internals. I feel the need to grease to gears as I did clean it out with all the old grease. It is pretty bad when a rod / pin fell out of the one-way bearing in the transmission hub.

    Quote Originally Posted by bifft it View Post
    hmm good luck to me on the 4910 that in the mail off ebay
    I know right! Thanks for the vote of confidence. I have brought a 4-Tec back to life, I can do the same with this, but it is going to be more of a challenge than I had hoped, but I am still determined to fix this up like new.

    The old TRX 3.3 engine still functions the same way. Stalls like crazy. This thing should be doing back-flips with this 3.3. She cannot even get out of her own way right now. I am getting skeptical at this point about the transmission. New motor seems to be the best option.

    Doc
    Last edited by pc.pro.doc; 04-19-2012 at 10:14 PM.
    4-Tec 4809 | T-Maxx 4910 | Bandit VXL 2704L

  22. #22
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Snook Man's Avatar
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    If a needle bearing fell out of the OWB the bearing is toast and needs replaced. It may also be the reason for some of your transmission issues other than the slipper.
    Stock plastic gears do not require grease; one small drop of oil in the OWB is all that’s needed.
    Grease on the stock gears is more of a hindrance than help.
    No slipper/tall gearing/power = broken parts.

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