Which hub carriers to buy?

[rc driver dude]

I have a set of hot racing hub carriers, but I heard they aren't that good. Should I sell them and buy the golden horizon ones?

[Chriser0]

I'm buying the gh ones. wait till I get them and I'll do a review.

[CobraWasHere]

I have had the HRs for several months and I'm totally happy with them. Just take it easy when threading in the pivot ball caps (to avoid stripping the threads) and you'll be dandy.

[Jimmie Neutron]

I have had the HRs for several months and I'm totally happy with them. Just take it easy when threading in the pivot ball caps (to avoid stripping the threads) and you'll be dandy.

Absolutely... over 200 packs on mine, still going strong.

[korn0307]

GH or GPM carriers and you will not be disappointed! But even with them you need to be careful with the pivot ball cups or they can strip. I recommend using some PTFT teflon tape on the cups so you can snug them up with a smaller chance of stripping them out. I dont know about the HR ones but if you strip the cups on the GH carriers then you can buy replacements for just a couple bucks off GH racings web site.

[Mossie]

been busy the last couple of days to getme some HR or GPM aaxle cariers
but everywhere i look or try it they are not in stock and got a delay till end april or late may.

i looked for rmp and intergy and these ones you can buy and are in stock

i even emailed several shops but all came with the same answer
we can not get them untill end april or late may

the reason why i want them is that the left rear wheel is almost 45 degrees on my Merv
because of the space thats on the pivotball and the carrier
when i start to drive it comes straight and 90 degrees but as soon as i pull the merv backwards its the same
sloopy stuff

[jimbo74]

i wouldn't run integy or rpm knuckles......

had rpm knuckles and they sucked.....

i mean, do whatever you want..... but you will kick yourself (as i did) when i realized i had wasted my money and had to buy anotehr set of knuckles....

look for peoples reviews here.... it will give you a lot more info than just trying to ask your own thread on it.....

[Mossie]

therefor i want HR or GH

[jimbo74]

therefor i want HR or GH

hr knuckles suck... fo the $, i shouldn't need to take a 50/50 chance i get a good set


the gpm are awesome as are the gh...... do your homework first

[Mossie]

did read yesterday that the HR ones break or crack after a while

so indeed i am looking for GPM ones now which are hard to find
did send mail to two shops which claim they got them instock.

[turok]

all of them work fine but it all depends of how hard you treat the truck.

[korn0307]

turok, I have seen videos of pillow balls popping out of RPM knuckles with minor taps to curbs lol.

[Mossie]

rpm nuckles are even worse then the stock ones and Korn is telling the truth
search on you tube what crappy stuff the Nuckles are from rpm and how many problem there are with them

[turok]

i use rpm hubs and so far so good. no heavy bashing. but many people don't use new balls when they get a new hub so that will cause some issues.

[korn0307]

Well i have the GH hubs and have hit some stuff pretty hard and havent had any problems with them yet.

[Mossie]

i went for the gpm this afternoon and ordered them from germany

[rc driver dude]

thanks for the help

[korn0307]

Thatd awesome mossie! Im glad you found them!!

[Farabomb]

I have not had issue with the RPM ones on my tmaxx but I see that the merv ones aren't the best. I was at the LHS today picking up spares because I broke the stock plastic retainer. I might have picked up the RPM ones if they were in stock. I ended up with the traxxas screw in retainers. Should I be looking for GPM or GH ones in the future?

When installing the traxxas cvds I noticed one of my bearings is seized. Figures, I spent $60 on spares and that's one of the things I didn't get.

[korn0307]

I recommend getting GH or GPM knuckles.

[jimbo74]

I recommend getting GH or GPM knuckles.

these are the only ones i would run on this platform

there are known issues with all the others

[ngnaw]

Can the stock ones be adjusted somehow to stop the wobble?? Why are they made that way?

[Jimmie Neutron]

Stock are not adjustable unless you buy parts that are just about the cost of a set of knuckles.

They are made that way due to cost...
if every part was upgraded out of the box the price would drive most customers away.

And even then there would be complaints as to what parts were used!

[Cipher_Jones]

I dunno...

I really like the RPM ones. I got them at first because they were the cheapest and I only had enough money for stock or RPM. When I first ran them, I popped them out a lot. However, they were my first upgrade besides tweaking the suspension, and they were popping because i was wrecking.

So I stuck with them, and they quit popping out when I quit wrecking. When I upgraded to LiPo, I popped them a couple more times, but it was because the truck was about 15% faster. Haven't had trouble with them ever unless I bit curb, have no problem with them now as I don't bite curb.

Now 50 has a good point, that the plastic that hold the bearing gets ovaled out. But that's never happened to me on a stock motor and 2s. If you are running an upgrade motor you are going to wreck at high speeds, and the part with the least resistance is going to be the one that gives. I would rather have a 10 dollar part give than a more expensive one, but more importantly one that is hard to fix. For example ripping the pivot balls out of the a-arm is way more wrenching to fix than popping 4 screws in and out. The bearing carrier wont oval out on aluminum, but the bearing will shatter or pivot balls will bend or strip. The aluminum part will be intact and the parts around it will be broken.

So I say take Jimmies advice. Do a search and see what parts break frequently yourself. People will come into this thread and tell you what you want to hear, but the proof is in the pudding.

[50togo]

Mine are ovaled out. Check my ultimate test thread found a new problem with gh. Don't know if it was a first edition design but the ones on my 1112 merv works fine

[ngnaw]

I'm leaning towards GPM ($40 for 4 plus shipping) + a new servo which I am still not sure which one to get as I want least mod possible, I think someone said to get the bluebird 390. I want to get my MERV to drive straight with 0 trim. Right now my trim is at 2 O'clock... and no matter what I do it's always swaying to the left... I think this is due to the wheels grabbing the uneven ground because the stock knuckles suck!??? I also have to install the aluminum rods so that I can adjust camber and toe

[Cipher_Jones]

I'm leaning towards GPM ($40 for 4 plus shipping) + a new servo which I am still not sure which one to get as I want least mod possible, I think someone said to get the bluebird 390. I want to get my MERV to drive straight with 0 trim. Right now my trim is at 2 O'clock... and no matter what I do it's always swaying to the left... I think this is due to the wheels grabbing the uneven ground because the stock knuckles suck!??? I also have to install the aluminum rods so that I can adjust camber and toe

If you could make an RC go straight with zero trim reliably they wouldnt put the trim knob on the Tx IMHO.

I know exactly what you mean and it bugs me also. However, I was happy to get it to go in a strait line WOT no matter what the trim position was set at, as going straight is the end goal.

I replaced both the stock knuckles and the servo to get it to go in a strait line. I also got the pushrods, but took them off eventually. It takes a lot of tweaking, trial and error. I recommend changing one variable at a time and noting the trucks reaction to each modification. Hope this helps.

Also, afterthought, there is a sub trim on the newer radios.