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  1. #1
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    Transmission Binding???

    Hey guys!

    I've only been the owner of my E-Revo Brushless for around two weeks and have only taken it out 3 times (once with the stock NIMH batteries and twice with 4S Lipos). I'm quite new to the hobby but did own an E-Maxx Brushed for a few months before. I did do a swap with the 65T Spur to the 54T when I started with the Lipos but only after a few runs the pinion gear set screw came loose and the pinion stripped the 54T spur after coming lose on the motor shaft, at least that's what I think. I ended up putting some medium strength loctite on the set screw but now I noticed that the transmission is binding when I roll the truck without the gear mesh so I haven't taken it out since. It doesn't bind constantly just every foot or so when the truck is rolled. I can see the slipper clutch and the driveshafts jutter when it happens but the sound definately is coming from inside the tranny. It is a new truck and I cant see how I could of done anything to it because I only have driven it on concrete and have taken a few small jumps but nothing at all serious that could affect anything. The only thing I've done is replace the spur and that already messed up and I don't really want to go about taking apart the tranny if its something else. The truck still rolls so maybe it needs to be broken in???

    I think the noise may even have been happening when I took it out of the box because it seemed noisy when I rolled it even with the motor resistance but I didn't think anything of it nor did I try to roll it without the gear mesh. I'm just wondering if it's safe to drive or should I avoid using it until the truck rolls freely so the tranny doesn't mess up further along the way.

    Any help would be appreciated!

  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    Where to start, check the differentials. That might cause it to bind then roll free. Just don't think it is the trans of a new truck.
    Diffs prob need to be broke in.
    Would you go flip my truck back over??

  3. #3
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    Thanks for responding 87 GN

    As for the diffs, I've looked over them before but never have disassembled them. Should I look out for something in particular like something that could of gotten in there or just the moving parts? Should the truck roll smoothly out of the box without the gear mesh or have other people had similar things happen that you have seen?

  4. #4
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    The truck should roll smoothly without the gears meshed.

    To locate the issue start by disconnecting the center shafts under the center skid. This will allow you to track down the binding.
    Spin the front center shaft by hand (front diff). Then try the shaft by hand (rear diff). Then try the spur gear by hand (transmission).
    Its All relative to your perspective.

  5. #5
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    I've never dealt with taking apart major components. I'm just worried if I take something apart I might not be able to get it back together and there is no RC expert where I live so I'm on my own.... If I do disconnect the centre diff and find which diff (front or back) is binding, they are completely sealed and I honestly have no idea how to get into them. The exploded diagrams are a little confusing on reassembly Is there any sort of test I could do by spinning the wheels because I have spun one wheel on both front and back and sometimes the diffs grab them and sometimes not. Both front and back seem to do the same that's why I'm thinking tranny.... but like I said, a newbie dealing with these problems after having it for a week, seems pretty unlucky....

  6. #6
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    Take your time and pay attention during any disassembly, lay parts out in order and you'll do just fine. It only goes back together one way. anr2442's troubleshooting description will help you narrow it down. You'll get it figured out.
    ERBE, MERV, REVO, E-Maxx

  7. #7
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    Thanks for the posts you guys. Is there any possibility that I could run in it even with the slight binding? I think it was binding out of the box but didn't seem to affect to much unless it could of caused the pinion set screw to come out but I doubt it. I put loctite on it so it shouldn't do it again. Hate the fact that I'm fixing it more than using it

  8. #8
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    No you really shouldnt drive a truck if it feels like it is binding at all. It could be a bearing or something important. The process to figure out the location of the binding is really simple.

    Just flip the truck over. You should see the first and second bottom skid plate. The second skid plate has a center screw. Remove that. Its the only screw that is centered on any of the skid plates.
    Now move to the 3rd much larger skid plate. Its coming off, so remove all 8 bolts from it and then gently pull it up from the rear. At the same time pull up on the back of second skid plate to get the big one out of there. shouldnt take more than 5-10 minutes (9 screws so far).

    Now you should be looking at the bottom of the transmission and the f/r center drive shafts. Remove 1 screw to free the front. Remove one screw to free the rear.

    Now you can track down the binding by spinning shafts independently. If you dont feel any binding then glip the truck over and play with the spur to check for transmission binding.
    Last edited by anr2442; 04-06-2012 at 11:10 PM.
    Its All relative to your perspective.

  9. #9
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    Yes I did remove the skid plates and so I just have to remove the small screw in both f/r drive shaft and both will come off the center drive shaft? Then just rotate each shaft to check for binding? I'll check back later and see what I get. Thanks anr2442 for the time.

  10. #10
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    Okay, the binding is in the rear diff so I'm guessing I have to take it apart and check it out. The rear looks more difficult than the front but I notice the aluminum plate and the pins. Will I have to take off the arms and wheels as well? Its pretty nitty gritty looking at it but I have everything together so I don't confuse myself. Anything I should be careful of before I start? Small parts or maybe lubrication I should have because all I have so far is wheel glue and some light grease for bearings....

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by RevoFan01 View Post
    Okay, the binding is in the rear diff so I'm guessing I have to take it apart and check it out. The rear looks more difficult than the front but I notice the aluminum plate and the pins. Will I have to take off the arms and wheels as well? Its pretty nitty gritty looking at it but I have everything together so I don't confuse myself. Anything I should be careful of before I start? Small parts or maybe lubrication I should have because all I have so far is wheel glue and some light grease for bearings....
    Nope keep the arms and wheels and bulkhead intact.

    Remove 3 screws that hold the rear body mount (wing) onto the chassis. That rear mount slides off in a chunk.
    Next the rear bulkhead slides out from the chassis once you remove the 2 rear shock screws.
    Third disconnect the axles via one screw each (like the center shafts) then the rear diff slides up out of the bulkhead.
    Last edited by anr2442; 04-07-2012 at 10:10 PM.
    Its All relative to your perspective.

  12. #12
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    you will need some diff lube & some grease...post #19 thru #27.. don't make the same mistake I did get all air bubbles out of the carrier before you close it up...................gl2u................
    http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...=1#post4899891
    Would you go flip my truck back over??

  13. #13
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    Well I successfully took it all apart without much problems and I think 87 GN was right all along it just needs to be broken in. Once I had the diff out I could slightly pull on the driveshaft to stop the pinion from rubbing so a shim may have helped but it didn't make that much difference so I left it. There were no plastic or metal shavings inside so I added a little more grease and reassembled it. So it is still making the same noise but I don't think it will be a problem once it is broken in a bit. Learned a lot from taking it apart and it was fairly straight forward once I knew what to look for. I hope the noise won't harm the truck's diff because there wasn't much I could do, the factory driveshaft can't really be altered so the gears teeth may be a little off or something but there was no debris or anything. Thanks for the support, I'm going to try and run it now and hopefully it works for the best.

  14. #14
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    good to hear, I had my new Maxx second run lock up a rear diff. Shimmed it up & run fine after that.
    Welcome to the denewboobfacation........
    Would you go flip my truck back over??

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