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Thread: My tmaxx build

  1. #121
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Wildman4910's Avatar
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    1000~2000 grt wet/dry sand paper to get as much of the scratches out as possible then Mothers mag & aluminum polish or Mothers Billet polish.

    Mothers Mag & Aluminum polish
    http://www.mothers.com/02_products/05100-05101.html

    Mothers Billet polish
    http://www.mothers.com/02_products/05106.html
    Look out for the tree/crunch!

    LiPo? Naw NITRO!!

  2. #122
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    Ok thank you, I'll give that a try

  3. #123
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    If its scratched a lot you will need to start with a more course sandpaper and work your way up in grit #. 1000/2000 grit will not remove most scratches.

    The polishing is the ez part, prep/sanding before the polish is the hard part.
    No slipper/tall gearing/power = broken parts.

  4. #124
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    Got my thunder chassis polished a bit. I'm just de anodizing my GA bulk set now. The FLM towers came in too
    I'll post some pics of it put together tonight. I'm also waiting for a order from UE. I'm gunna try out a monoblock with the thunder




  5. #125
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    Sweet...
    Someone’s fingers are about to get sore from prepping and polishing GA bulks!
    Be sure to order the correct dog bone for the Thunder and the Mono.
    You may have mentioned it, but is there a reason you choose the flm towers over the knuckleheads?
    No slipper/tall gearing/power = broken parts.

  6. #126
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snook Man View Post
    You may have mentioned it, but is there a reason you choose the flm towers over the knuckleheads?
    I went with FLM because the knuckleheads only accept the older round body posts and the squared off ones feel stronger. If these don't last I'll try out the UE towers

  7. #127
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kyleb View Post
    I went with FLM because the knuckleheads only accept the older round body posts and the squared off ones feel stronger. If these don't last I'll try out the UE towers
    Thats a good point. Squared posts are stronger than round,
    and the round posts are becoming difficult to find (new).
    My only issue with the FLM shock towers is....not enough shock mounting positions. j/k
    Bash, Crash, Upgrade, Repeat..

  8. #128
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    I've been going at them a few hours now and this is shiny as they have got. Does the oven cleaner turn the anodizing black? I noticed I can kind of sand the black off. Anyone have a few tips



  9. #129
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    With the application of the oven cleaner still wet on the bulks use an old toothbrush and hot soapy water to scrub the surface (wear rubber gloves or you will be sorry). Most of the black will come off with the scrubbing but you will need to sand the entire surface. If you want all the milling marks removed you will have to sand a lot starting with a rough grit working up to the finer grits.
    The GA bulks are one of the hardest parts I’ve ever de-anodized and polished, I feel for you.
    No slipper/tall gearing/power = broken parts.

  10. #130
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kyleb View Post
    Got my thunder chassis polished a bit. I'm just de anodizing my GA bulk set now. The FLM towers came in too
    I'll post some pics of it put together tonight. I'm also waiting for a order from UE. I'm gunna try out a monoblock with the thunder



    Where did you get that chassis from. I have been looking for the FLM for the past year and i still can't find it

  11. #131
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    It's a UE chassis an it's waaay more common than the ice chassis. You can find them on eBay




    Made a bit of progress.



  12. #132
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    So this is my first complete tears own in about 3.5-4 gallons. This truck was filthy, I know most of you guys do teardowns after 1 gallon. I dident even know the axle carriers had bearings ! Between the fizz and axle carriers I did not have any bad bearings which was surprising. I pulled the rubber shields off and lubed them all
    Up



    I took my diff completely apart and dumped out the thick black stuff and filled my
    Diff cup with 7,000 wt diff oil, is that too thin? Greased the gears with some Traxxas grease. I also sealed the diff with RTV to be on the safe side. Dumped the stock 35 wt shock oil out and refilled
    With some 60wt ofna oil



    Assembled the one half back together


  13. #133
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    Sweet looking t maxx. I didnt know about the violator tank upgrade. I may do that to my maxx. I have a question tho. How much fuel does it hold in relation to the stock tank? More or less? I currently have a big aluminum fuel tank but i personally dont like it much. Its heavy and i cant see how much fuel i have left. That and i have to unscrew an aluminum cap to fill up instead of a pop top.

  14. #134
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joey_30 View Post
    Sweet looking t maxx. I didnt know about the violator tank upgrade. I may do that to my maxx. I have a question tho. How much fuel does it hold in relation to the stock tank? More or less? I currently have a big aluminum fuel tank but i personally dont like it much. Its heavy and i cant see how much fuel i have left. That and i have to unscrew an aluminum cap to fill up instead of a pop top.
    The stock tank holds 125cc of fuel and the violator holds 150cc

    Everything you need to know about the tank would be in this link. Couple nice trucks in their too
    http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...ng-the-upgrade

  15. #135
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    How much does the violator tank hold? Is it more or less than the stock tank?

  16. #136
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    It holds more..

  17. #137
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    Oops. Wow. Ok. Thanks. I may look into buying one. The mach 427 .26 engine i run on my max drains the stock tank pretty quick

  18. #138
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    When u get your 17 mm hub adapters try to make shure to get RED thread locking compound for them. Mine kept coming loose with blue. Dont put red on your regular screws tho. U wont get them back out even with tools

  19. #139
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    Oven cleaner eats chrome off of stuff.....i use purple power all purpose cleaner for my stuff

  20. #140
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joey_30 View Post
    How much does the violator tank hold? Is it more or less than the stock tank?

    When you get your 17 mm hub adapters try to make sure to get RED thread locking compound for them.
    Mine kept coming loose with blue. Don't put red on your regular screws tho.
    You wont get them back out even with tools.
    The Violator tank is 150CC tank & stock is like 100 or 110CC.

    For very stubborn loctited screws use a soldering iron to heat up the screw head to get the loctite to break down to get the screw out easier.
    Look out for the tree/crunch!

    LiPo? Naw NITRO!!

  21. #141
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    Made some more progress. I cleaned up my engine and used a adapter sO I can run a BB header with a SB exhaust outlet

    A picture of the machines aluminum adapter


    Did the FL suspension and added a new savox hi tourque servo


    I had to drill new holes in the header do the spring would line up straight because it was a left side exhaust. bTW the ofna aluminum drilled out like it was butter


    Even with this engine and I big block header you can still see there is plenty of room between the shock and header




  22. #142
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    My monoblock and othe goodies came in from UE today!!



  23. #143
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    Making some Progress











  24. #144
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    Nice, like the looks of things so far. Wish I had the time/money to build the dream Maxx w/ everything I'd want in it

  25. #145
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    Hey kyleb can you tell me the length of that mono block extension? Is it 34mm ?

  26. #146
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    31.75 mm ....

  27. #147
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    De-anodizing my
    Front skid, argh Xbox live can be so distracting..






  28. #148
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    What do use to de-A ??

  29. #149
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    I'm using oven cleaner nAme yellow cap. Be carefule around screw holes, it does more damage that good

  30. #150
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    cool.. then you polish it after? or just leave it?

  31. #151
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    Put my rpm wear plates on today





    I had to make a mounting bracket for the violator tank to bolt on. I had a STrc stampede skid Plate that was already chopped
    Up
    So I just used a peice of that





    <a href="http://s303.photobucket.com/albums/nn142/kyleb32/?action=view&current=6932A2B4-468B-4BF8-A5D2-B2677BDCF28A-287-000000608C30E8C3.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn142/kyleb32/6932A2B4-468B-4BF8-A5D2-B2677BDCF28A-287-000000608C30E8C3.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos" /></a>

  32. #152
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    Well got my income taxx back. That means a lift kit and tired for my 1:1 truck, and lots of rc parts!!

    After dinking around I hacked my UE mount to fit the picco but the holes don't line up
    I decided to scrap the red dot and within the next few days I'll he ordering a .28 BB picco as son as I find out what flywheel and clutch I need.
    Along with some RRP steel tranny gears. Starting a second maxx project. It's a 4910 pro .15. I'll be putting this modded picco in it.

    It will be having all steel driveline and retain stock width and length. Should be stupid fast.

    Should have both trucks done in less than 3 weeks after I return from work


    UE mount hackjob










    How my new project is starting out

    Last edited by Kyleb; 03-19-2013 at 07:43 PM.

  33. #153
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    I just put a order in for a new gen2 widetrac kit from UE!

    I had no idea that when I started this, that this would turn into a supermaxx

  34. #154
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Snook Man's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kyleb View Post
    I just put a order in for a new gen2 widetrac kit from UE!

    I had no idea that when I started this, that this would turn into a supermaxx
    It only takes a couple of UE parts to make you want more.
    No slipper/tall gearing/power = broken parts.

  35. #155
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kyleb View Post
    My monoblock and othe goodies came in from UE today!!


    Kyleb when you ordered your monoblock, was the rear driveshaft included?

    When I bought a monoblock from UE, I ordered the rear driveshaft at the same time
    and they told me it's out of stock. Now I'm staring at a 80 dollar paper weight.
    Bash, Crash, Upgrade, Repeat..

  36. #156
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    looking good man... and yeah taking off anodizing is way easier with greased lightning.... but if you use oven cleaner what i do is soak it... come back and scrub with a toothbrush.. leave it soaking... toothbrush again... do this a few times.. then use the toothbrush and some water to get the rest off... there will be 100% no black or anything, and itll barely need any aluminum polish, even if you hand polish it to look like brushed aluminum... then if you want it really shinny use a dremmel polish wheel..

    ive de-anodized alot of parts.. and this method still only takes a few minutes to have your finished result look perfect..


    Last edited by kuskye25; 03-20-2013 at 07:01 PM.
    Traxxas is good, but so are other Manus

  37. #157
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    Quote Originally Posted by NitroTrout View Post
    Kyleb when you ordered your monoblock, was the rear driveshaft included?

    When I bought a monoblock from UE, I ordered the rear driveshaft at the same time
    and they told me it's out of stock. Now I'm staring at a 80 dollar paper weight.
    No the driveshaft is bought seperatly

    Luck you though! The website is showing them in stock

  38. #158
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    Quote Originally Posted by kuskye25 View Post
    looking good man... and yeah taking off anodizing is way easier with greased lightning.... but if you use oven cleaner what i do is soak it... come back and scrub with a toothbrush.. leave it soaking... toothbrush again... do this a few times.. then use the toothbrush and some water to get the rest off... there will be 100% no black or anything, and itll barely need any aluminum polish, even if you hand polish it to look like brushed aluminum... then if you want it really shinny use
    meh, not
    Too worried about it. After its first run the whole truck will be tht color anyway

  39. #159
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    Parts came in.

    Some notable
    Things is a 2.5 tranny
    RRP 3.3 gears
    M2C 4shoe aluminum clutch
    MIP CVDs
    Lunsford turnbuckles
    Engine should be in tomorrow. Some strobe braces on the way too




    This tranny supposedly has RRP gears in it, got it off eBay.
    Now what spur/ slipper is on this?



  40. #160
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    Pull the slipper apart so we can see the inside.

    Looks like an RRP center & plates with a different MFG spur ring on it.
    Look out for the tree/crunch!

    LiPo? Naw NITRO!!

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