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  1. #1
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    3.3 Build suggestions

    I have the 4907 3.3 T-Maxx still completely stock. I have broken in the engine already and have driven it on some sand dunes without a gas filter. Curious if there is something i should do if some sand did find its way into the engine. I also stripped out the gears for the turning servo.

    I am more then ready to buy and replace parts. I have heard great things about RPM nylon parts. Servo's and other things I am still researching what brands are good.

    I have heard other essential upgrades are a throttle fail safe, gas filter, maybe a temp monitor, volt meter, new servos with metal gears (ecspecially since one of mine is broke), and i was thinking about a K&N air filter.

    Here is a list of parts I plan on ordering.

    Rear bumper

    Front Bumper

    Standard A-Arms. I will only get 2 if i should buy the rear kit that they sell. Conversion A-Arms

    I have read that i should get heavier shock towers instead of nylon ones, since they can take a lot of strain. I will keep researching, but any help would be greatly appreciated. Oh and I want to Black the whole thing out, hence the all black RPM parts.

  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Wildman4910's Avatar
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    Stay away from the junk K&N breathers you see out there, they are not meant to be an engine intake filter & will let in what the stock 3.3 filter keeps out.

    The stock 3.3 filter is a good one right out of the box, the Motoraver is a good one too.

    Just keep the tank lid clean or clean it with a blast of canned air before refueling, inline fuel filters are just another leak point to me.

    For a 200oz & up MG steering servo there are lots of good choices from $40~$100, just depends on how much you want to spend.

    RPM makes good parts, I highly recommend the wear plates that go over the stock skids too.
    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXWLJ1&P=7
    Last edited by Wildman4910; 05-12-2013 at 01:50 AM.
    Look out for the tree/crunch!

    LiPo? Naw NITRO!!

  3. #3
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    Ya I was wondering that about the K&N air filter. The skid plates you linked I think are the same ones that I linked.

  4. #4
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    You might have to open up the engine and inspect it for any sand particles or any debris for that matter. An inline fuel filter is advisable. I wouldn't get a K&N air filter ans they are mainly for full size cars, not for hobby class vehicles. Instead I would get a Motor saver air filter. RPM parts are highly recommended as they are nearly indestructible and come with a warranty. If your vehicle came with a 2.4 GHz transmitters and receiver (Which I'm sure it did as all new cars come with upgraded 2.4GHz technology anymore), you wont have a need for a fail safe as the 2.4 GHz already has it built in. Its pretty much limitless more or less with metal gear servos. They can get pretty spendy especially when it comes to a fast, high torque, double ball bearing servo. I just have a stock 2018 servo for the throttle/brake and I upgraded to a Hitec HS-645-MG servo for the steering. Its almost limitless as to how much money you're willing to dump into your car. Some people go all out, dump a whole bunch of money into it and upgrade almost everything to aluminum. Aluminum suspension arms, shock tower... you name it but I wouldn't advise it unless you're a really really good driver because you will be replacing more than just a bent up suspension arm after you hit an immovable object at 40+MPH, Besides that... all that aluminum makes the car really heavy.
    Traxxas Nitro Sport w/ TRX 3.3 Racing Engine

  5. #5
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    Can you not buy nylon pieces that connect the bumpers to the bulkheads? Seems pointless to have that as a weak point. I won't be getting the K&N filter. I am aiming more for durability then looks for my first T-Maxx truck. The only looks part i want is for it to all be black.

  6. #6
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    Actually you want a weak point in there. The bumper mounts is a great place to have one, it keeps it from transferring into the bulkheads and back into the chassis. My suggestion is a T Bone frt skid/ bumper. It also helps absorb some of the impact. Layering helps each layer to absorb a bit more.
    This is for an Emaxx, so check and make sure it will fit you're series T Maxx. Just checked, the same number on it. http://t-bone-racing.net/Brand-N-Z/T...Maxx-p356.html

    http://t-bone-racing.net/Brand-N-Z/T...Maxx-p357.html


  7. #7
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    +1 t-bone bumpers are a great addition, they take all the abuse, super flexible and super durable...

    i dont have one on my maxx but here is some pics of them on my buggies, they have made the front ends indestructible...

    Traxxas is good, but so are other Manus

  8. #8
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    I have been doing some reading and it looks like I don't want RPM bulkheads. It looks Great Assembly makes some good ones. Would I need the 7075 or would the 6061 kit. The 7075s don't seem to bad in price for the whole kit including the braces. But if the extra weight isn't necessary I can go with the 6061s. Also I will probably be getting aluminum shock towers as well to match. http://www.greatassemblyrc.com/Store...86&InfoID=3573

  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Snook Man's Avatar
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    It depends on what you want to spend. The 6061 bulks are perfectly fine, but for $55 more you get the 7075. The difference in weight between the 2 is minimal.
    No slipper/tall gearing/power = broken parts.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snook Man View Post
    It depends on what you want to spend. The 6061 bulks are perfectly fine, but for $55 more you get the 7075. The difference in weight between the 2 is minimal.
    Hey Snookman... I am almost done with my new rebuild, alm head, shock towers, an tekno wheel hubs, you were absolutely right, no slop at all... How do I attach the toe in/out adjustment rods for the rear since I removed the rpm true tracks? Can u post a pic of your setup in the rear of your Maxx?

  11. #11
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Snook Man's Avatar
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    The rear toe links will attach to the open hole in the back of the bulkhead and you use the best suited hole in the axle carrier to best set the toe.
    No slipper/tall gearing/power = broken parts.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snook Man View Post
    The rear toe links will attach to the open hole in the back of the bulkhead and you use the best suited hole in the axle carrier to best set the toe.
    Sweet... Am almost done... Will post final pics when am done... BTW the retainer on the front tekno hubs, did you use the smaller retainers as the directions say, or can I just use the regular ones that are held with three screws?

  13. #13
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    Get a motorsaver filter, perhaps with a different filter neck. I still chewed through the neck that came with it.. There isn't much clearance.
    Enjoy!

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by HICKFARM View Post
    I have been doing some reading and it looks like I don't want RPM bulkheads. It looks Great Assembly makes some good ones. Would I need the 7075 or would the 6061 kit. The 7075s don't seem to bad in price for the whole kit including the braces. But if the extra weight isn't necessary I can go with the 6061s. Also I will probably be getting aluminum shock towers as well to match. http://www.greatassemblyrc.com/Store...86&InfoID=3573
    whats wrong with the rpm bulkheads??I seen they just came out for the maxx.shoot I thought about getting some.

  15. #15
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    WOW i see now they dont fit.man thats horrible guess i need to get lined up on some aluminum ones.

  16. #16
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    well in my opinion if you want to upgrade bulks youll want more rigid then stock ones, not more flexible, acncm bulks on ebay $40 for front and rear, or spend a little more and get flm"fast lane machines"... either choice is good, depending on what your wallet can afford
    Traxxas is good, but so are other Manus

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by kuskye25 View Post
    well in my opinion if you want to upgrade bulks youll want more rigid then stock ones, not more flexible, acncm bulks on ebay $40 for front and rear, or spend a little more and get flm"fast lane machines"... either choice is good, depending on what your wallet can afford
    This is exactly what i was hearing about brad_ruch. Bulkheads isn't a place where you need flexing. I am tempted to just buy front and rear Golden Horizon Aluminum Bulkheads since that is a total of 50$ instead of 100$ (6061) or 150$ (7075) for the the Great Assembly ones.

    Update:
    I went to the local HobbyTown USA and bought a new Hitec HS-645MG Steering Servo, and 2 black A-Arms for the front wheels.

    And i also ordered a 1600MaH hump pack, Futaba Y-connector with switch, Dynamite Fuel Filter, and a toggle switch to rig up my new spotlights on my Yamaha YFZ450R quad.

    Got really bored this winter and decided I needed two hobbies.

  18. #18
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    So i decided to order Golden horizon bulkheads, shocks towers and body mounts. Bought a new aluminum steering kit as well.

    I am deciding which tires i want as well. I believe my T-maxx 3.3 has 14mm hex bolts for the rims, but I can easily mount 17mm rims if i buy the adapter kit. These Pro-Line rims look like they should fit well on my truck and the 1/2" offset will be nice, but I can't seem to find other tires that are this wide and will fit on the rims.

  19. #19
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    what kind of surface will you be running on the most... and btw those are the standard proline 3.8" desperado rims, proline has many tires that will fit on them

    i went with badlands on my maxx and trenchers on my mgt8.0, both are great all around tires...

    Traxxas is good, but so are other Manus

  20. #20
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    I really like the look of the Desperado rims. I might just order a set of 4 rim tire combos of the ones i linked. I will mostly be driving on the street or on dirt, so those Badland tires look great for that. But where I plan on taking my four-wheeler there will be tons of sand and they would be fun for the snow as well.

    Is 1/2" offset more then enough?

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