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  1. #1
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    What do you use ?

    Ok, so i got some tie to mess with my transmission in my slash with rustler. After messing with gears i ran into a problem. When i screw my pinion gear back on the shaft, it seems like it sits there stable, but when i run my motor that little screw in the pinion gear always get unscrewed, i hate it because i cant even get 10seconds out of my trucks, that pinion gear always falls off. I have heard that you can use some sort of liquid or w/e to make it stay there (not glue).

    So what do you guys use for that ?

    (screws are in perfect condition, i even bought new pinion gear and tried that, still falls off)

  2. #2
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    Use blue loctite to keep that little screw in there.
    Just put a dab of it on the threads before you screw it in.

  3. #3
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    Don't be surprised if you perhaps have stripped threads on either the screw or inside the gear. Or possibly you may have mixed the wrong size/pitch grub/set screw from another gear that does not use metric?

    It it backs out that fast then I believe there is something more wrong than needing loctite and on those little screws make sure you have a quality allen wrench or once loctited will be havoc to remove..

  4. #4
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    If ill use loctite will i still be able to unscrew them later on ? or it works like a glue ?

  5. #5
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    If you use blue loctite, you'll be able to unscrew them later. If you use red, you'll have some trouble getting them out.
    Slash 4x4 stock
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  6. #6
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    after putting loctite on the bearings how long do i have to wait before i run the transmission ?
    and
    Thank you guys for your replies i will get back home and try that, hope it will work

  7. #7
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    Blue loctite will make it tougher to get the screw out, but it will hold it better. Just be sure that you are using metric wrenches with metric screws and allen wrenches with allen screws. Different brands use different screws. Even without the locktite, the pinion set screw should hold fast for awhile. I personally don't use locktite on mine, because being a tiny screw, it can make it hard to get out. I'd rather lose a pinion than have to cut one off the shaft if the screw strips. Make sure the pinion is touching the flat part of the shaft as well. Are you using the right bore pinions also? The pinion should have very little room between it and the shaft. Not sure what the problem could be.....
    Slash BL-Pede-E 4Tec-FLM EMAXX-Wraith-AX-10-SCX-10

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Agriganosa View Post
    after putting loctite on the bearings how long do i have to wait before i run the transmission ?
    and
    Thank you guys for your replies i will get back home and try that, hope it will work
    WAIT!! What bearings are you taking about? DO NOT PUT LOKTITE ON ANY BEARINGS!! Just the pinion, if anything!
    Slash BL-Pede-E 4Tec-FLM EMAXX-Wraith-AX-10-SCX-10

  9. #9
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    sorry not bearings but that pinion little hole where screw goes in

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Agriganosa View Post
    after putting loctite on the bearings how long do i have to wait before i run the transmission ?
    and
    Thank you guys for your replies i will get back home and try that, hope it will work
    just a few minutes...10 min or so.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by kwitty View Post
    Don't be surprised if you perhaps have stripped threads on either the screw or inside the gear. Or possibly you may have mixed the wrong size/pitch grub/set screw from another gear that does not use metric?

    It it backs out that fast then I believe there is something more wrong than needing loctite and on those little screws make sure you have a quality allen wrench or once loctited will be havoc to remove..
    You need to heed this advice.

  12. #12
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. harry697's Avatar
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    There is absolutely no reason to use loctite on the pinion set screw, or really any screw on an electric r/c for that matter.

    Guaranteed that your pinion is falling off because you're using the pot-metal L-wrench that came with your truck. Or you're using an L-wrench in general. You need to get a high quality hex driver. Actually, get a complete set of them. They are way more precise than those L-wrenches. I even own Snap-On and other high-end brands of allen wrenches and they are no good for most r/c applications. The tolerances are just too sloppy.

    I will guarantee that if you invest in some good drivers, you will never have a pinion fall off again.

  13. #13
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    I know their parts are sub-par, but consider a set of ti wrenches from Integy. 1.5, 2, and 2.5mm will get you through just about any job on your RC. You'll wonder what happpened to all of your L wrenches, because you'll hardly ever use them again. The cool part is that if you would happen to break a tip, you just buy the shaft for about seven bucks and install it in the handle. The only time I ever broke one was when I dropped a driver directly on the tip onto a concrete floor. You would also need a standard size for Robinson pinions....
    Slash BL-Pede-E 4Tec-FLM EMAXX-Wraith-AX-10-SCX-10

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by MAXXXMASHER View Post
    consider a set of ti wrenches from Integy
    +1. I have both the english and metric Integy hex drivers and they are high quality. Wrenching on my Slash is much easier and faster with the proper tools.

  15. #15
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. harry697's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SR-71 View Post
    +1. I have both the english and metric Integy hex drivers and they are high quality. Wrenching on my Slash is much easier and faster with the proper tools.
    +2. I can't find a link for the set I have, but the handles are color-coded and the shafts are ti-nitride. I bought the set a few years ago and only had one tip break (the tiny red-handled one). I am a huge Integy hater, but these drivers are awesome! Someone else must make them for Integy.

    My set has all the popular SAE and metric sizes for r/c's.


    EDIT: I'm pretty sure this is the set

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Integy-C2230...item3f14ab3d74
    Last edited by harry697; 04-05-2012 at 08:58 PM.

  16. #16
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. harry697's Avatar
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    Aside from the pinion set screw, you will kick yourself for not buying these a long time ago once you use one to remove the rear shock tower screws that attach to the chassis. I used to throw a fit trying to remove those with an L-wrench! I usually ended up stripping the heads on them.

  17. #17
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. O.G.'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by harry697 View Post
    Aside from the pinion set screw, you will kick yourself for not buying these a long time ago once you use one to remove the rear shock tower screws that attach to the chassis. I used to throw a fit trying to remove those with an L-wrench! I usually ended up stripping the heads on them.
    I do agree with this. With a good set of tools you can do anything. I have a set of Dynamite brand tools that I love.
    My Black & Blue Rally is faster than your color...

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