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  1. #1
    RC Racer
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    Exclamation rustler bottoming out

    when i hit jumps all i can hear is my rustler bottoming out. is there a way to stop it from bottoming or is there a shock to help.(i am using stock everything)

  2. #2
    RC Racer
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    I would use big bores after I broke my stock shocks from bottoming out I got rear big bores, they help a lot trust me.
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  3. #3
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    Much simpler and cheaper option than that.

    Did you buy the rusty new or used? If new you will notice that there is a selection of plastic spacers, these spacers are in a C shape with a little nub sticking off the opposite side of the opening. These are the spring pre tensioners, they will range from super thin to pertty fat, their job is to increase the pre loaded tension on the spring, this in turn will make the spring stiffer at all times, and the stiffer spring will cusion the fall off a jump better, and end up by stopping your rustler from bottoming out (aka chassis slap).

    If your rustler was second hand and you dont have these then the part number for them is: 3769, they are called 'traxxas spring prelaod tensioners'. It is the easiest and cheapest method to stop your rustler from bottoming out

    Upgrading your shocks is not a bad idea and will help with the issue, but its a more expensive route and requires a little more work. Personally over time i would suggest changing the shocks, though here in te rustler forum there seem to be a fair amount of people that like the stock shocks, especially if they put the aluminum shock caps on and change the shafts to the TiN shafts(titanium niteide is it?) the tin shafts are a lot tougher an the aluminium caps wont pop of on big air.

    The choice of what to do is yours of course, my personal suggestion would be to get some big bores on there, stonger and better looking shocks that will last forever and make your rusty look awesome!! Its the next upgrade for mine for sure.
    VXL P2de, rusty MMP Orion vortex, mid '90's P2de

  4. #4
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    Thicker oil. And Integy part # T8088/8087 Use the red or black springs. They are STUPID stiff and aren't great at much of anything else other then taking hard landings and off road bashing. If not that then yeah the preload spacers will help. But I would throw in like 40-45wt oil and stiffer springs on the highest slot setting. Oh and some bigger sidewall tires like either. 2.2 Masher2k's / Badlands or 2.8 badlands/trenchers.

    -It will still bottom out though. Just less often. Unless your going off of 4 foot jumps then it's just gonna happen :P
    Last edited by AZ Racer X; 03-28-2012 at 09:59 AM.
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  5. #5
    Marshal Dadx2mj's Avatar
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    Take a Rusty off a decent jump it is going to bottom out IMO it is just the nature fo the beast. If you set up the suspension stiff enough that it does not bottom out on jumps you will have a lousy handling Rusty IMO.

    If it really bugs you then you could put bump stops on the shocks. Just cut a piece of fuel tubing or something similar to go on the shock shaft on the outside to limit how far the shock can compress. Make it long enough the shcok hits the limiter before the chassis hits the ground.
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  6. #6
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. pavmentsurfer's Avatar
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    Like dad said, these are 1/10 scale vehicles. The jumps your hitting at 1/10 scale would be hundreds of feet in real life. There is no way any vehicle could land jumps of this size and not bottom out.

    Most RC's bottom on BIG landings. If its happening on small stuff you can use thicker shock oil, some spring spacers (though as dad said, simply jacking your springs up is not an ideal solution) or some bump stops. Some guys are using Losi TenT shocks and are reporting they have less tendency to bottom as they are larger than stock.

    Another option is a larger tire that gives a bit more ground clearance. But again, there will be a handling trade off with this solution.
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  7. #7
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    Everybody is right on, but I'd check shock oil first. If you have never changed it, there probably isn't a whole lot left in there and your suspension will be really soft.
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  8. #8
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Thicker oil, stiffer springs and some preload spacers and your set. You don have to go with crazy stiff spring either just thicker than stock. Pick up the integy spring set for the slash, not the rustler, and then you'll have lots of tuning options available. If you make your suspension too stiff, it'll handle like crap as x2mj said but you'll most likely just end up breaking ends of the shock shaft and popping the cap off the top of the shock or snapping your shock tower. The energy of you landing big still has to be absorbed by something and if not your shocks the way they're supposed to then everything else on the car will.
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  9. #9
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    i think it will bottom out, but make sure the shocks still ABSORB some of the impact atleast. the shocks in the end on big jumps should reduce the force of the chassis hitting the ground.

  10. #10
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    Landing properly is always the biggest help to surviving these. Even if you chassis slap every time, if you do it level it really won't hurt the truck to much. It's when you get all catty wampus with the landings that things bend and snap :P
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  11. #11
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. harry697's Avatar
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    I keep seeing posts about adding spring clips to stiffen the springs. This is not true at all with a standard rate spring. Those little clips that go on the shock body are for adjusting ride height, not stiffening the springs. The spring has a rate and it stays the same no matter how many or few spacers you put on it. All they will accomplish is changing your ride height.

    You either need stiffer springs, heavier oil, or probably a combination of both to help with bottoming. But, keep in mind that bottoming is normal to an extent with a correct setup.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by harry697 View Post
    I keep seeing posts about adding spring clips to stiffen the springs. This is not true at all with a standard rate spring. Those little clips that go on the shock body are for adjusting ride height, not stiffening the springs. The spring has a rate and it stays the same no matter how many or few spacers you put on it. All they will accomplish is changing your ride height.

    You either need stiffer springs, heavier oil, or probably a combination of both to help with bottoming. But, keep in mind that bottoming is normal to an extent with a correct setup.
    You are correct that the spacers will not change the spring rate, but it will change the amount of preload; the amount of force necessary before the spring will compress further.

    Stiffer springs will help but you will get to a point that the ride height will always be topped out and cannot be lowered without up-limiters in the shocks. Obviously this is counter-productive.

    Thicker oil (and/or less holes in the pistons) will slow the rate of the shocks in both compression and rebound, but going too far will cause a hydraulic bind inside the shocks on hard landings, causing bent shafts, popped off plastic shock caps, broken end links or even broken mount points.

    A compression limiter on the outside of the shock will cause the shock to hit end-travel and then put the strain on and possibly breaking the end links and mount points.

    Bottoming out, especially if landing mostly flat or even slightly nose-up, distributes the force across the entire chassis pan and allows the suspension to do its job. Don't forget the tires themselves will also compress on landings.
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  13. #13
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. harry697's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PMDRACER View Post
    You are correct that the spacers will not change the spring rate, but it will change the amount of preload; the amount of force necessary before the spring will compress further.

    Wouldn't that only be true if the shock was at full extension, in other words no sag? For example, if the arms of the truck are sitting level with full vehicle weight on them, if you add spacers, it will just raise the ride height but the spring will still be the same length as it was before changing the spacers. But if the shock was fully extended under the same circumstances, adding spacers will increase the preload.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by harry697 View Post
    Wouldn't that only be true if the shock was at full extension, in other words no sag? For example, if the arms of the truck are sitting level with full vehicle weight on them, if you add spacers, it will just raise the ride height but the spring will still be the same length as it was before changing the spacers. But if the shock was fully extended under the same circumstances, adding spacers will increase the preload.
    I would suppose that would be correct if the springs were short to begin with. I'm thinking from the perspective of the standard white springs that are always in a partial compression even when the shock/spring set is assembled and sitting on the work bench.
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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by AZ Racer X View Post
    Thicker oil. And Integy part # T8088/8087 Use the red or black springs. They are STUPID stiff and aren't great at much of anything else other then taking hard landings and off road bashing. If not that then yeah the preload spacers will help. But I would throw in like 40-45wt oil and stiffer springs on the highest slot setting. Oh and some bigger sidewall tires like either. 2.2 Masher2k's / Badlands or 2.8 badlands/trenchers.

    -It will still bottom out though. Just less often. Unless your going off of 4 foot jumps then it's just gonna happen :P
    Putting your shocks on the highest slot setting will only make your shocks softer.
    Use the preload spacers. cheap and easy fix. In fact, you don't even needdto use those...just take off your springs and just put some washers on there to adjust it. I'm sure you got some washers layin around.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dadx2mj View Post
    Take a Rusty off a decent jump it is going to bottom out IMO it is just the nature fo the beast. If you set up the suspension stiff enough that it does not bottom out on jumps you will have a lousy handling Rusty IMO.

    If it really bugs you then you could put bump stops on the shocks. Just cut a piece of fuel tubing or something similar to go on the shock shaft on the outside to limit how far the shock can compress. Make it long enough the shcok hits the limiter before the chassis hits the ground.
    What does IMO mean!
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  17. #17
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    IMO = in my oppinion
    IMHO = in my honest opinion

    More tension by using the preload tensioners will increase the amount of force required to compress them. It effectively makes a toghter coil on the spring. But yes depending on the amount of sag that is in the shocls to start with you may only alter the ride height. But there is a reason as to why there are many types of shock use a threaded bore for adjustmemt - you can quickly increase the tension on the spring while in the field, without the need for different oils, piston heads or springs (among other more fine tuning reasons). All of which i do agree are the best options to stop bottoming out, though it is difficult enough to take it out 100% on a pede with all the extra groun clearance so the rusty will be harder to stop it on! It just that the prelaod spacers come in the box with the truck amd will deffinitely help out, so it is therefore the cheapest quickest option to go for (as i said) with other options ranging from slightly more expensive and a little more work, to very expensive and quite a large amount of work
    VXL P2de, rusty MMP Orion vortex, mid '90's P2de

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