Jimmie Neutron's Build

[Jimmie Neutron]

Purchased just as the TQi/LVD models where releasing...
SOLD the TQi... only used it long enough to make sure it worked.


I am not so good at taking before pictures... but I usually always have after pictures.
Then again, is a before shot really needed? lol


I have some plans in mind as to what I am going to do to this Summit, but since I change plans as often as I change underwear, there is no point of my spending the time to type them up. lol

I will keep posting as I modify this RC...
I do hope I find a point where I feel I can stop.


I will say this:

1) I will install a DeWalt and try it before I go brushless.
I would say "I am never going to go brushless" but I might be lying then. If the DeWalt proves to be as good as everyone claims it to be, I doubt I will go brushless.

2) If I go brushless, it will be sensored brushless.
Depending on my wallet and the accounts payable department (my wife) it will either be an XERun system or a Tekin system. I am leaning toward the XE simply because it is water resistant. But then again; when the time comes, who knows what is going to be out there for waterproofing electronics... this "hydrophobic" stuff I see is pretty slick.

3) If I want more speed, I will get an RC designed for speed.
I will not demand more speed out of this RC than it is capable of. Trying to get a pseudo crawler to be a speed demon is, well, foolish. That is what they make ERBE's and MT4 G3's for.


With all that being said....

[Jimmie Neutron]

The first thing I did... built an 8 channel remote:



It is basically a 2239 case with the electronics of a 2239 and 2238 remote stuffed inside.
I am still waiting for the battery that will (hopefully) fit into the handle to come into stock.
If I have to, I will strap the battery to my wrist and power the remote through a barrel socket system.

I will be able to turn on/off the LED's and the motor fan from the remote, as well as operate each differential locker separately. I will also be able to select 1 of the three modes for the PunkRC steering computer, which will allow me to choose steering modes and operate both axles with the steering wheel.

Here is my planned channel lay out:
A1.1 - Jumper to feed the second Rx
A1.2 - Steering wheel feed to PunkRC steering PC
A2 - ESC & BEC; Pull the power from the ESC and replace with power from BEC
A3 - Transmission (thumb switch)
A4 - LED/Horn; depending on which RC I am controlling
B1.1 - Jumper from A1.1
B1.2 - Front Locker
B2 - Rear Locker
B3 - Steering Selection feed to the PunkRC steering PC
B4 - ESC/Motor fan

More details can be found here.

[Jimmie Neutron]

Since I will have a lot of electronics on board, the stock Rx box is not big enough.
When I ordered all the switches for my Tx/Rx project, I also ordered 4 project boxes... 2 sets of 2. One is long and short, the other is shorter and taller.

Here are some pictures of them being mocked up...

Single large box:


Dual large box:

(probably end up being forced to use this layout)

Height of the large box:


Dual small box:

(I prefer the looks of this layout over the dual large boxes)

Height of the small box:

You can see in this picture that I would need to modify the gear cover in order for the small box to fit... even then it is going to be really close to the spur gear.

[Jimmie Neutron]

Here is how I have the ESC mounted:



I will get some nuts to secure this to the plexi...
even though they are threaded into it, I feel adding some nuts is not going to hurt.

[Jimmie Neutron]

I also have installed some RPM Revo bumper mounts so I could lower the body...

[noir 522]

Looks good, Great work on the radio (Daniel is great no?). If you are open to suggestions, to place the evx-2you cold make a short plate with three holes- two holes to match the rear shock screw points and the third where the middle hole or the rear body brace attaches to the chassis. And the evx and the plate could "float" over the rear shocks therby lowering your center of gravity/ allowing you to go up steeper hills without falling backwards and also allows you to still move the rear body post up and down if ever you want to run a shorter body for a different look (pick up truck?)

Looks like its going to be a good build - greet craftmanship on the radio. I am looking forward to the additions. post it up when you are done.

[Jimmie Neutron]

I am always open to suggestions!

I actually considered mounting above the shocks... but I plan on mounting a third battery above the steering servos, so I imagine that will offset the weight difference of the ESC being in the rear body mount tower.
Although, if I do go to a truck body.... I guess I will cross that bridge when I get there. lol

Thanks for the compliment on the radio!
I took my time and even mounted everything in a 2238 case before I put them in the 2239 case just to get all the kinks out before the final version. My goal was a clean, "factory" install and I feel I accomplished that... except for the on/off slide switch hole. lol

I cannot thank Daniel enough for his post... that is what made the radio project affordable.

[Gizmo1988]

Sounds like it will be one top heavy truck.

[snowslider]

That's a sweet remote!

[Jimmie Neutron]

Thanks!!

We'll find out how the weight is once I get it loaded up.

[4sdash]

that remote is amazing im going to follow this build

[Jimmie Neutron]

I've thought about offering to build the remote for fellow RCers... but parts alone is roughly $150. Plus I have HOURS of labor into it... might start to get out of the "affordable" range for most folks.

[Jimmie Neutron]

Here is an update!!

Stripped the chrome off from my rims...







I'll post a how to here shortly...

[Jimmie Neutron]

Here is how I did it...

1) Cleaned the dirt off
2) Took the rings off
3) Cleaned more dirt off
4) Sprayed it down with yellow cap oven cleaner
-Used WalMart brand first...
did not get all the chrome off, but could be due to my impatience (2 hours)
-Bought a can of the real thing...
Easy Off with the yellow cap then sprayed them down and left them overnight
I did reapply a few times during the night
5) Hosed them down
6) Picked at a few spots with a tooth pick
7) Washed them with soap and water in the bath tub
8) Let them dry outside
9) Installed the rings

[Swampthing]

Here is how I did it...

1) Cleaned the dirt off
2) Took the rings off
3) Cleaned more dirt off
4) Sprayed it down with yellow cap oven cleaner
-Used WalMart brand first...
did not get all the chrome off, but could be due to my impatience (2 hours)
-Bought a can of the real thing...
Easy Off with the yellow cap then sprayed them down and left them overnight
I did reapply a few times during the night
5) Hosed them down
6) Picked at a few spots with a tooth pick
7) Washed them with soap and water in the bath tub
8) Let them dry outside
9) Installed the rings

Sorry to dig this up, did you remove the tires when you did this?

[Jimmie Neutron]

Body clip saver...





I shoe goo'd a 3x5mm neodymium magnet to the underside of the body.

[varunaX]

I like the look of your wheels above without the red ring. Looks better, more classy imo

You will be disappointed if you think you will see a big upgrade with a single dewalt. Really the difference is negligible over the 775, which is itself a very powerful motor. And its nowhere close to a brushless motor, so you should not even be thinking that.

I think the dewalt gets praise cause its rebuildable, it won't die as fast as the 775 and you can use pinions that are 2-4 teeth bigger.
If your 775 dies then I'd upgrade, otherwise keep your 775

[Jimmie Neutron]

I am going to run the 775 until it is dead... so the power upgrade probably won't be happening for quite some time. I have read where the stock motor has lasted over 2 years with little to no maintenance. I'd be happy with 1 year. lol

So far, I am extremely happy with the performance of the 775. The "upgrade" would happen more to gain a rebuildable motor and the claimed power/torque increases are just icing on the cake.

[jamann]

I'm running 16/58 for fall and winter
It will eat any 775 all day every day
It can handle a good range of gearing
As a "replacement" motor there isn't much better for the price


Sent from my iPhone using My fingers

[Jimmy1971]

I'm running 16/58 for fall and winter

Hey jamann, These gears are with a Dewalt, correct? What gears do you use for spring and summer?

[Jimmie Neutron]

Thanks for the gearing tips, jamann!

[jamann]

In the summer with the dewalt I gear it to 16/65 for heat issues.ran a MMP dewalt all winter with a outerwears cover. I have a tekin rx8 and a 2000 kv sensored xerun going to try for a while see how I like that once the weather gets a bit better


Sent from my iPhone using My fingers

[jamann]

Thanks for the gearing tips, jamann!

I don't recommend that aggressive of gearing for normal use... I was running in the snow below zero weather hour at a time at the most it was too cold on the hands. I just can't drive in ski gloves.... Lol


Sent from my iPhone using My fingers

[Jimmie Neutron]

Thanks though...

I have gotten one of my many shipments... this one had this:

Motor Heatsink/Fan Combo







It has about 6.5" of wire... and fits quite tightly on the 775.


Now here is the real question:
How is the diameter of the DeWalt in comparison to the 775??

[noir 522]

I am not certain of the exact numbers but they appear to be very minimal difference





540, Trinity Speed Gems 17x1,Craftsman 19.2volt 775, DeWalt 18volt, DeWalt 12volt

note: the Dewalt 14.4 and 12 volt (I believe) have the same external dimensions

[Jimmie Neutron]

Noir, you ROCK!!

Thanks so much!
I think the heat sink is actually going to perform better on the DeWalt than the stock 775...
more contact area.

[snowslider]

So, how much does the heat sink lower the temperatures?

[Jimmie Neutron]

Haven't been able to run it.

I should have (most) of the rest of my parts shortly...
I have ran it with the electronics kinda rigged together, but I would rather not.
Wouldn't want to ruin a 2218 Rx... or rip a wire in two...

[Jimmie Neutron]

I was able to get one of the Rx boxes mounted up today...
I am pretty satisfied on how it turned out:


Scuffed and swabbed with alcohol before I stuck the 3M dual lock on.
Also had to flatten the chassis...



I have closed cell firm foam rubber wrapped around all wires entering the box.
This should help keep water out.


I am not expecting this to stand up to submersion...
but it should stand up to a few splashes.


There will be another one of these on the other side...
whenever my last two shipments ever get here.

[redskull56]

I don't get how some folks say there is no difference between the DeWalt and the stock motor. I gained at least 5mph in top speed and at least 50% more torque. So, you can gear quite a bit higher with the DeWalt too. 19/68 is considered "stock" for the DeWalt. That should get you at least 25mph out of a fully loaded Summit.

[varunaX]

Yep I agree. Just like I said above, I think the dewalt gets praise not for its perfomance but cause its rebuildable, it won't die as fast as the 775 and you can use pinions that are 2-4 teeth bigger.

[redskull56]

As far as gearing, I've run 68/21 without trouble, ambient temperature of around 55F though, if it's 85F out it may get too hot.

[pavmentsurfer]

You have to keep in mind a 5mph increase in top speed is %20 over stock... that aint no small increase no matter how you look at it. If it can push the summit close to 30mph, thats a major upgrade. I run mine geared so its nearly the exact same speed as stock and just love the extra low end... it allows me to crawl slower but with more control. I did gear it up just once to see how it did and it was noticeably faster. Not as fast as a brushless setup, but for a summit its the perfect motor.

[krallopian]

Awesome! You know, it was this build thread that made me pull the trigger on the Summit

Does it say 40-80c discharge!?

[Jimmie Neutron]

Muahahahaha!!
Just wait until I get everything in!

And; yes, yes it does say 40-80C discharge.
That is 304 available amps!!

[Jimmie Neutron]

For those that want to know...
The 7,600's rough measurements: 6 1/8" long, 1 3/4" wide, and 1 1/16" tall with 5 1/2" long main lead and a 2" long balance lead. Both of my packs came in at 3.85v/cell wrapped in their own individual box.

Here are some pictures of them installed:

[krallopian]

Haha hilarious I responded after you posted these batteries, then last night I asked, "Anyone know if ********** 7600's fit?"

Wicked!

On the radio box, would you try making the same antenna design as stock, as to make that hole waterproof and easy to open at the same time?

[jamann]

Well I could not figure out why my 2.4 quit working moisture maybe thanks for the advice tried to fix it but no luck.. So i ordered a tqi lol


Sent from my iPhone using My fingers

[Jimmie Neutron]

I consider my Rx box to be water resistant as is...
Those antenna tubes are really tight... a drop of CA would seal them 100% though.

It is the entire back side that would let water in if submerged. This can be fixed with some silicone sealant, but I feel confident that this box will stand up to the occasional puddle splash without letting water in... which is fine for me as I will never submerge my Summit.

[rizz0d]

...which is fine for me as I will never submerge my Summit.

I tell myself that every time I head into the wild with my summit...