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  1. #1
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    Broke ANOTER chassis! Need help beefing this thing up!!

    ok so i don't consider myself to be a crazy abusive basher BUT this thing is making me think I should of went savage!
    I dont want to quit so I want to toughen this up!*
    So far I've gone through less than 10 charged 6s packs and I've gone through 4 bulkheads, 2 skid plates, a rear bulk, a slipper clutch and 2 chassis!

    I have aluminum a arms. I'm thinking SCRAP these for some rpm ones first.*
    And I have big joes I think I should downgrade too for badlands?
    Rear true track or no? What's tougher?

    This is my list of things that I THINK will toughen it up. *Can anyone edit or give any input on what you think too?

    Operation TUFF REVO

    ALUMINUM BULKHEADS trinity*
    RPM A ARMS (true track or no!?)
    ROLL CAGE by RC SOLUTIONS
    CHASSIS BRACE MOD
    Sway bars traxxas or tecnik (same?)
    Body proline top kick
    Slipper clutch golden horizon?
    Badlands and rims (TAPED)

  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    I have aluminum a arms. I'm thinking SCRAP these for some rpm ones first.*
    And I have big joes I think I should downgrade too for badlands?
    Rear true track or no? What's tougher?


    the alum arm are creating a new weak point & looks like bulks & chassis.. ditch the alum..

    love the Badlands, & RPM true track would be a good choice...GL2U
    Would you go flip my truck back over??

  3. #3
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Cameron's Avatar
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    Stick to stock bulks and add RPM arms. if you are willing to add the RC Solutions cage that will/should (they say so) prevent chassis breaks period.
    (RAH) (AH) + [ROMA (1+MA)] + (GA) + (OOH)(LA)

  4. #4
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    Personnally I would go with aluminum A-arms only if I had an aluminum chassis... other than that the chassis is taking all the force of every impact instead of the A-arm flexing under impact ...

    6S and super heavy tires are also a good combo to break stuff in your driveline...

    The rollcage and chassis brace would be good upgrades for 6S bashing IMHO...

  5. #5
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    Ok thanks for the input
    I figured the aluminum a arms were not helping! I picked them up cheap and figured why not!
    Guess they ended up being more than I bargains for!

    So true track rear rpm arms are the better way to go? They set the camber or toe to be equal on both sides right?

    So RPM a arms with ALUMINUM bulkheads and chassis brace and roll Cage = 1 tough 6s bashing machine?

    Please note that acronyms containing filtered words are not permitted.
    -ksb51rl
    Last edited by ksb51rl; 03-11-2012 at 10:11 PM. Reason: Language

  6. #6
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    still pass on the alum bulks too..

    true track sets the rear toe.. pivot balls set camber..
    Would you go flip my truck back over??

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by olliewog View Post
    Ok thanks for the input
    I figured the aluminum a arms were not helping! I picked them up cheap and figured why not!
    Guess they ended up being more than I bargains for!

    Anyone wanna buy them lol!

    So true track rear rpm arms are the better way to go? They set the camber or toe to be equal on both sides right?

    So RPM a arms with ALUMINUM bulkheads and chassis brace and roll Cage = 1 tough SOB 6s bashing machine?
    Yep that would be pretty tough.

    I would try the rc solutions roll cage first before i sprung for alum bulks. Most don't break another bulk when using the RC solutions version bc it tightens up the chassis and bulks to perform as one solid unit.

    If you dont break another bulk then you also saved youself some weight, bc Fuzion said they were heavy!
    If you do break another bulk... Then you know what your next purchase should be.

    Hot Racing makes the 6 pad heavy duty slipper.
    Tekno is the orher sway bar manufacturer.
    Last edited by anr2442; 03-11-2012 at 10:33 PM.
    Its All relative to your perspective.

  8. #8
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    i personally dont like aluminum unless its needed, like a nitro truck, the engine would melt the plastic.
    so, my vote goes against the Aluminum A Arms, RPM ones are great. especially the True Track kit. i LOVE mine!
    im going to stay mute on the Aluminum Bulkheads, as i have 0 experience with them. i have stock ones and they are holding up just fine for me.

    for me, i found i needed to threadlock and double nut my slipper so it wouldnt loosen up on me.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cameron View Post
    Stick to stock bulks and add RPM arms. if you are willing to add the RC Solutions cage that will/should (they say so) prevent chassis breaks period.
    I second that....I have run an rc solutions rollcage for nearly two years now and haven't broken a bulkhead or the chassis since I installed it. I had 4 or 5 broken bulkheads for the 6 months I ran without the rollcage.

    I also modded mine with Losi lst diffs, xxl driveshafts front and rear and kershaws center dogbone drive shafts a little over a year ago....been pretty much breakdown free since

    btw, a stock shell will hold up fine if you use the rollcage. they usually get damaged by landing on the roof and collapsing it down which cracks it, the rcsolutions cage gives the stock shell a backbone.

    I haven't seen the GH slipper clutch but I have been using the hotracing double up slipper with aluminum pads and am extremely happy with it.
    Last edited by candy76man; 03-12-2012 at 12:19 AM.
    -ERBE
    -Slash 4x4

  10. #10
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    +1 for rollcage and RPM all around (w/ true-track). And lighter wheels would be better for transmission components durability.

  11. #11
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    Ok great thanks for the feedback guys. My to buy list is this so far

    Chassis $29
    Stock rear bulkhead $8
    Rpm a arms $15 a set x 2 = $30
    tru track rear $49
    Slipper clutch $6

    RC solution roll cage $80-$105
    RPM bumpers $9 each

    Then I'll sell my rd logic a arms for $50 to get the RPMs!

    After this ill then get badlands and work on drivetrain for more brake free bashing!

  12. #12
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    im pretty sure its the RC solutions cage i saw in an advertisement with a full size pickup parking its FRONT wheel on the RC truck with their roll cage. neat picture, hopefully it wasnt photoshopped! haha

  13. #13
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    Yes I saw that picture too
    It's on their website too
    Hard to tell if it's real or not? I won't be trying it out for myself though lol

  14. #14
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    i think its real, but i think they used a jack to lift up the truck and set it on the rc. either way, its very impressive if you ask me. that truck has gotta weigh like 5000lbs! and the engine is up front, so its not like they picked the light half of the truck either.

  15. #15
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    Along with all the other things already mentioned...

    Ditch big heavy tires on 6s, adjust punch control with Castle Link.

    What gearing are you currently running?

    The issues you are having sound a lot like "new driver" problems that will go away if you back down to 4s or 5s for a while.

    Even Traxxas doesn't recommend 6s for off road bashing. It can be done, but only in the hands of an experienced driver. With all the stuff you keep breaking, I would suggest backing off the power for a while. JMO
    ERBE, Summit, Thunder Tiger MT4

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by LaTuFu View Post
    Along with all the other things already mentioned...

    Ditch big heavy tires on 6s, adjust punch control with Castle Link.

    What gearing are you currently running?

    The issues you are having sound a lot like "new driver" problems that will go away if you back down to 4s or 5s for a while.

    Even Traxxas doesn't recommend 6s for off road bashing. It can be done, but only in the hands of an experienced driver. With all the stuff you keep breaking, I would suggest backing off the power for a while. JMO
    Good point...running 6s without good throttle control will break stuff no matter what parts you use...If your getting on asphalt and slamming the throttle over and over or doing standing backflips over and over, jamming the brakes full power all the time and the like, don't be suprised when your diff or gears or driveshafts, or slipper start falling apart or getting shredded, landing jumps on the throttle or brakes is a good way to tear things up too....on 6s the 2200 motor puts out around 5hp....that's as much power as your average pushmower engine makes( and then only once it's running at full rpm), and the 2200 makes that much power instantly.
    Last edited by candy76man; 03-12-2012 at 06:15 PM.
    -ERBE
    -Slash 4x4

  17. #17
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    Good point guys... I don't want to back down the power though.
    I do have steady power from a stand still do punch control wouldn't affect much! BUTi will play around with it to help with drag races perhaps?one thing I would like to adjust is adding in a little drag brake. I think I like engine braking on my rmz 450 so I'll try that out!

    Also rpm a arms and a chassis brace mod and RC solutions roll cage! That'll need that up
    Next will be drive shafts and summit shafts

    I got a slipper with the friction discs today. Hope that's an upgrade over the aluminum or steel it came with stock?

  18. #18
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    Gearing is 18/54 now
    I'd like to up it to 20/54 once I get badlands and be gone the big joes

    I'll keep big joes for offroading in chunky dirt! Badlands do look like great traction tho. Steering and handling will be better too I bet

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