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  1. #1
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    Bulkhead problem

    Bought and installed aluminum acncm bulks......first run out bustd factory hinge pin....any recommendations on what pins to install????

    Appreciate any help

  2. #2
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    lunsford is the best word I've heard so far, FLM hinge pins tend to bend as well the stock pins.
    I like turtles.

  3. #3
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    lunsford is the best word I've heard so far, FLM hinge pins tend to bend as well the stock pins.

    I do not know how to delete this lol
    I like turtles.

  4. #4
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    I use lunsford ti hingepins. They are great and if you do bend one you can straightin it. I haven't snaped one yet.

  5. #5
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    Yeah the original ones broke off at the threads....quite suprised

  6. #6
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    You can get traxxas stainless pins ,they don't snap like the stock ones.

  7. #7
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    Buy a 1lb. box of pole barn nails for $4. You'll have enough to last you for the next 10 years.

    The Lunsford pins will bend too, and they cost way too much.

  8. #8
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    ^^ I agree. I use Plastixs ejector pins, they are really better than the Lunsford pins.


  9. #9
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    What diameter are they? I was thinking maybe some stainless welding rod 3/32 in diameter for tig welding

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by HighDollarRustler View Post
    Buy a 1lb. box of pole barn nails for $4. You'll have enough to last you for the next 10 years.
    How do you keep them from back out of the bulkhead and A-arm? Are they long enough to put a little bend at one end to keep them in place?

  11. #11
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    If you run flm bulks I know there is a little set screw that will hold the pin in place.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Popoxx View Post
    ^^ I agree. I use Plastixs ejector pins, they are really better than the Lunsford pins.

    Do you have anymore info on these. Forgot all about them. Trying to find them in Canada.
    Also are they core pins or just regular. When I search for them I find two different types.
    Last edited by bentrocker; 03-09-2012 at 05:28 AM.

  13. #13
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    I didn't want to post details right now because I'm going to order new stuff to improve the method. But as you ask for those details, here we go !

    The exact ref is PE3-125L6 (Through-Hardened Straight Ejector pins). Thickness 1/8", lenght 6".
    You just have to cut the pins to the appropiate size.
    To prevent them from moving (because no eclips here, just a head on one side), there are 2 methods (maybe more, comments are welcome) :
    - George16 from RCM : http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...or+pins&page=4 (post #46).
    - Mine (easier for those who don't have "pro" tools).

    My idea is to wedge the pins with the bumper mounts and to add spacers (I will use Axial spacers, see the different sizes on Tower Hobbies) to prevent the pins from moving.

    Rear :


    Thanks to the 45 mm Axial post between chassis braces (one brace is missing, I bent it and I haven't replaced it yet), the pins bumps into it. So it's well secured.
    And with some Axial spacers (5 or 6mm) between the Great Assembly brace and the 45mm Axial post, the brace won't move too. But if you don't have a FLM chassis and a brace, just shorten the pins' size. The pic below shows you that the pins won't move anyway.


    The upper rear pin bumps into the rear bumper mount. I will use spacers here. Same idea for the lower rear pin which bumps into the skidplate.


    Upper rear pin (chassis side) : no problem here.

    Front :

    I can't use ejector pins to replace lower front hinge pins because my skidplate is too close to the pins (red circle). So I keep using Lunsford pins here. But as you can see on the pic below, no problem for the upper front pins which bumps into the bumper mount.



    Maybe your skid will allow you to use ejector pins, if so, just wedge them like I did for lower rear pins.


    Upper front pin (chassis side) : no problem here.


    I hope my explanations are clear Don't hesitate to ask questions.
    These ejector pins are great !

  14. #14
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    Where your skid plate is interfering with the bottom pin. I have that cut off on my skid plate. The ejector pin I have been looking at nitrade, hardened and it is about $3.50 to $4.00 for 3mmx125 mm.

  15. #15
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    For the Plastixs Ejector Pins could you Dremel a groove one the end and e-clip it?

  16. #16
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    I think so. But it could be complicated. How to dremel a good circular groove ?

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Popoxx View Post
    I think so. But it could be complicated. How to dremel a good circular groove ?
    Do you have access to a hobby lathe? That would do the trick.

  18. #18
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    My tools are basic ! I would be interested to see the result with such a tool.

  19. #19
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    Popoxx

    I heard of people chucking up the pin into a drill and turning it on. Take a thin dremel wheel with a pair of pliers and hold it against the spinning pin to cut the groove.

  20. #20
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    Good idea ! I will try that for the front lower pins
    I'm negotiating the shipping charges (very high for international customers) with Plastixs before ordering a batch of ejector pins.
    I have ordered the Axial spacers, I will post pics of the new setup by the end of the month.

    Can't wait to see yours !

  21. #21
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    popoxx-----do you mind me asking what type of shocks do you run on your e maxx.....i would love to get something different that the stockers

  22. #22
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    There are a few of you needing this pins that are out of the country. I dont know how much of a hassle it would be for me to purchase them and send them out.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by A468BU View Post
    Popoxx

    I heard of people chucking up the pin into a drill and turning it on. Take a thin dremel wheel with a pair of pliers and hold it against the spinning pin to cut the groove.
    I may have to try that.

    Last night I tried to cut a groove using my small hacksaw with a pin in my vise. It worked well enough to get an e-clip on but it was kind of ugly.

  24. #24
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    Just do titanium from Lunsford. They will likely snap in the odd event you manage to damage them, instead of bending and possibly lodging itself in your aluminum bulkhead. I've run Lunsford in all my vehicles from a TC4 to my E-Maxx and have never encountered problems; plus you can just give them a call and they'll send you more decals when you run out.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by turbo_cat1 View Post
    Just do titanium from Lunsford. They will likely snap in the odd event you manage to damage them, instead of bending and possibly lodging itself in your aluminum bulkhead. I've run Lunsford in all my vehicles from a TC4 to my E-Maxx and have never encountered problems; plus you can just give them a call and they'll send you more decals when you run out.
    People are having trouble with bending the Lunsford Pins.

  26. #26
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    I'm planning on going with the Lunsford pins, but why not experiment? Like HighDollarRustler said... a $4 box of pole barn nails will last a life time.

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by turbo_cat1 View Post
    Just do titanium from Lunsford. They will likely snap in the odd event you manage to damage them, instead of bending and possibly lodging itself in your aluminum bulkhead. I've run Lunsford in all my vehicles from a TC4 to my E-Maxx and have never encountered problems; plus you can just give them a call and they'll send you more decals when you run out.
    I don't upgrade parts if they are great you know. I bent maybe about twenty Lunsford pins so an upgrade was necessary. I guess you don't drive your E-Maxx like me Lunsford pins can satisfy most of people that's for sure, but hard bashers need stronger pins.

    Quote Originally Posted by efarrell View Post
    popoxx-----do you mind me asking what type of shocks do you run on your e maxx.....i would love to get something different that the stockers
    Unlimited Engineering (UE) Supermaxx shocks. If your E-Maxx is stock, Traxxas Big Bore shocks with stiff springs do the job.
    Last edited by cooleocool; 03-13-2012 at 03:21 PM. Reason: post merge

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Popoxx View Post
    Unlimited Engineering (UE) Supermaxx shocks. If your E-Maxx is stock, Traxxas Big Bore shocks with stiff springs do the job.
    i have stock chassis with the aluminum bulks, brushless motor, if i hit a little slope that looks like small jump the suspension soaks it up and the trucks ends up nosing into the ground.......if i go with the big bores....what shocks do you recommend to go on them....

    i appreciate your advice!

  29. #29
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    I had no idea the ti pins were failing! You guys run hard... run hard or stay home I suppose.

  30. #30
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    I haven't had any fail and I have ran into some stupid things. I usually tear up the a-arm first. I have bent them but you can straighten them enough to reuse.

  31. #31
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    Just as a note - I hit a small sapling tree a couple days back and broke a lower a-arm. As I was replacing the arm today, I noticed the Lunsford hinge pin was bent! Shocking! Honestly, I've never had a problem in 11 years. I sent them the pin in a padded envelope with a letter - we'll see what they do.

    Question: I understand the difference between strong and brittle materials, but how can you physically cut a hard steel ejector pin and have it hold up to abuse in an RC monster better than titanium?

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by turbo_cat1 View Post
    Question: I understand the difference between strong and brittle materials, but how can you physically cut a hard steel ejector pin and have it hold up to abuse in an RC monster better than titanium?
    I think the point of using the ejector pin is not that it is stronger than the titanium ones, It's a matter of biggest bang for your buck.

    HighDollarRustler said to use 1 lbs pole barn nails for $4.00 and you have hinge pins for life.

    I think the point is that why spend a bunch of money on expensive titanium pins if they are going to bend when you can use a comparable product for the fraction of the price.

    For me, personally, I'd rather rather bend a few nails or ejectors here and there and just replace them as opposed to bending a Lunsford and having to deal with a warranty claim and the truck is down for weeks.

  33. #33
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    Its not that ejector pins are a cheaper solution, its that they are the strongest solution. they will not bend and they are hardened. So if you manage to do anything to them, it would be to snap them.

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Popoxx View Post
    I think so. But it could be complicated. How to dremel a good circular groove ?
    For a set screw area or for an E~clip?

    For a set screw grove chuck it in a drill, spin it and Dremel a shallow grove into it.

    For an E~clip grove I think the only way to do it correctly is on a lathe.
    Look out for the tree/crunch!

    LiPo? Naw NITRO!!

  35. #35
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    Since we were on the subject of using alternative materials for hinge pins I thought I'd drop this here but I plan to add this post to my project thread.

    Because I am on a budget and I enjoy trying different ideas, the earlier post by HighDollarRustler about using pole barn nails really intrigued me. So last week I was at the hardware store for some stuff around the house and I picked up a 1LB box of 16d 3 1/2" bright finish nails. There has got to be in the neighborhood of 80 nails in this box.

    They can be easily cut down to size. But how do you keep them from backing out was my issue. I have some extra e-clips so I thought I'd try to cut a groove with my Dremel... horrible results, to uncontrollable. Then I tried putting the nail in my vise and using my small hacksaw to cut a groove, using the surface of the vise as a guide to control the blade. That worked ok but still very sloppy.

    Then A468BU posted about using the chuck of a drill to spin the nail and cut a groove. I that was a great idea, so I went back out to the garage and pulled out my trusty Dewalt drill.

    I started by putting the nail in place and marking the nail at the bulk head where the e-clip needed to be with a permanent marker. Sorry I didn't take any pictures of this.

    Then I put the nail into the drill chuck, pointed end first as that will be your scrap end that will be cut later. I tighten up the chuck to a point where my ink mark was just outside the face of the chuck. Sorry, didn't take any pictures of this either.

    At first I used my cutting wheel from my Dremel and held it with pliers and spun the drill. It didn't cut hardly at all doing this method. I guess you could use a thin hacksaw blade for this but I opted to but my cutting wheel back on the Demel instead. I can't remember if the drill was turning forward or reverse but I set it to turn the opposite direction that my Demel spins.

    As I ran the drill I powered up the Demel and place the wheel on the nail at the face of the drill chuck using it as a guide. After a bit of cutting and grinding I tested to see if the e-clips fit. At this point I had to play a little, it not an exact science, I just cut until it looked right. Some nails I cut to deep, some I had to re-chuck and cut some more.

    After the groove was cut and an e-clip would fit I snipped the nail with my bolt cutters as close to the groove as I was comfortable doing. After that I ground the cut end of the nail down to about a 1/16th of an inch from the e-clip groove.

    Now, I don't know if the nails are any stronger than the stock pins. And I'm certain they are not as strong as Titanium ones. With that being said, this may be a big failure. The nails feel as strong, if not stronger than the stock pins. My problem with the stock pis is that they snap on me. I have had only one to bend, the rest have just snapped. So even if these nails bend and I have to replace them, I have about 70-80 more to use up at a cost of $4.00.

    Here is what I started with. Stock pins on the left, nails on the right.



    Grooved, cut and ground to length



    Installed and e-clipped




  36. #36
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    Looks really good.

    I tore down my truck for a thorough cleaning and guess what? In addition to the one bent front Lunsford ti pin, I found another bent ti pin in the front today! I might go back to the stockers since they shatter, which is obvious as opposed to the subtle bending. Easier to remove and install, too, since they're threaded.

    I have never had this problem before - this type of running must be appreciably harder on parts than standard road racing or lighter off-road vehicles. We're probably having more 'fun' with our trucks so that invariably leads to more damage as well .
    Last edited by turbo_cat1; 03-19-2012 at 09:45 AM.

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by turbo_cat1 View Post
    I might go back to the stockers since they shatter, which is obvious as opposed to the subtle bending. Easier to remove and install, too, since they're threaded.
    See, that funny how we all have our differences. I don't like the fact that the stock pins snap and shatter. To me, the one that bent was easier to remove and replace. The ones that have snapped were a bear to remove because it seemed like I had to almost completely remove everything from the chassis just so I could get a push rod of some sort to push those broke pieces out of the bulkheads and A-arms.

    Another reason for me to get away from the stock pins is I eventually want to get the FLM Ultimate bulk/diff carrier & diff combo so I won't be able to use the stock pins, I'll have to use the e-clipped style.

    Thanks for the props BTW!

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by M n M View Post
    After the groove was cut and an e-clip would fit I snipped the nail with my bolt cutters as close to the groove as I was comfortable doing. After that I ground the cut end of the nail down to about a 1/16th of an inch from the e-clip groove.
    Could you make the groove and since you are "chucked up" already, just cut it to length with your dremel?

  39. #39
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    Or am I trying to cut a corner here????

    Something I do that gets me in trouble....

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by jwstiles65 View Post
    Could you make the groove and since you are "chucked up" already, just cut it to length with your dremel?
    Well the way I did it the scrap end or pointed end was in the chuck. So everything from the face of the chuck to the nail head was the usable part. I guess I could have pulled the nail out of the chuck a 1/16th of an inch re-chucked it and cut it off that way. I haven't done the front one yet, I think I will try that. It certainly would give it a cleaner cut. Thanks for the idea!!

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