So in 2 days I have crewed up 2 different bell gears..... I have the mesh set so the paper can fit between the two. I do have a 72 RRP spur gear and that is undamaged.
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So in 2 days I have crewed up 2 different bell gears..... I have the mesh set so the paper can fit between the two. I do have a 72 RRP spur gear and that is undamaged.
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3.3 T-Maxx
1/16 E-Revo VXL x2
Electric Rustler
Run a plastic spur man, better over all and you shouldn't have that problem.
Matthew 7:7
When running a steel spur you must run a hardened steel CB, regular CB will get eaten up just like your pic shows.
Look out for the tree/crunch!
LiPo? Naw NITRO!!
BIG RED T Maxx/ .19t 4907 w/ 4910 trans
thanks guys, i am going to go back to the plastic slipper and I am thinking about upgrading to the torque converter
3.3 T-Maxx
1/16 E-Revo VXL x2
Electric Rustler
I love metal. They hold up much better for me. I have been having trouble with mine stripping plastic gears at idle with the brake on. I know it doesn't make sense.
I know, I hate weird stuff like that. Twice it was just sitting there idling, once on the wheels and once on the roof. When it was on the roof it stripped the spur gear before I cold walk 20 feet to flip it over. Then it did it the second time when I stopped it to talk to my son for a moment. Both time the engine start screaming but I had to shut it off, it was not a lean issue either time that I know of.
Spur gears wil strip for the following reasons.
1. When landing from a jump too much throttle while in the air and then coming in contact to the ground.
2. Gears not meshed correctly, either too little or too much pressure used when meshing the gears together.
3. CB bearing or clutch issue.
4. Hard landings causing the chassis to flex while under load causing the spur gear mesh to change on the fly with the flexing. This also causes fuel tanks to crack near the legs. Easily fixed with changes in driving style, adding aluminum chassis braces or going to a stiffer chassis.
5. Tranny mount loose.
6. Crankshaft is not running parallel with the input shaft of the tranny causing the gears not to be straight with each other but skewed.
7. Loose or broken motor mount or stripped screw in the motor mount.
8. Slipper too tight not allowing the slipper to actually slip a little. When offroading and being on the throttle this is very important....
No need for a steel spur even with a BB. If the gear is stripping something is wrong. Getting a metal spur just covers up the symptom of the stripped spur, it does not fix the problems as mentioned before.![]()
Founder of H.U.A.
Hop Ups Anonymous
Yeah I bought my maxx with the metal spur but I am putting a plastic one back on
3.3 T-Maxx
1/16 E-Revo VXL x2
Electric Rustler
I am scared to go back to plastic. I hate changing the things. I have 3 in my box just incase.
Properly meshed and with a proper slipper setting you shouldn't be scared of using plastic.
The Super Derecho
Use a strip of paper when setting gear mesh, cut it down to about a 1/4" strip. Run it between the cb and spur press the two together just enough to crinkle the paper. I do it by feel and sound now but this method really helped me out when 1st getting into this hobby.
P.s. you can also use this method on electrics too.
been running plastic spur for the last couple of years, haven't changed it out yet.. Running 3.3 and OS 18tm motors.. mesh is very easy to set on this truck and as long as there is a little play in the slipper, you shouldn't ever have a problem.
Maxx3.3/ rusty5700/ slash3800/ slash5700 /4tec3.3
I installed my e-maxx brushless diffs and took it out Saturday. It was running great until I chewed up my clutch bell. So now I have put plastic spur back on. I hope I don't regret it.
I think I just need to get a new bell gear and set mesh and not mess with it
3.3 T-Maxx
1/16 E-Revo VXL x2
Electric Rustler
I got a new plan, I am fitting a revo spur and bell on my maxx and see how that runs
3.3 T-Maxx
1/16 E-Revo VXL x2
Electric Rustler
Plastic spur gear? So he'll be chewing more plastic spurs than steel clutch bells... Seems pointless...
I went to a steel spur very early, mainly before of all the sand I would run my truck in.
Any sort of big jump while on the throttle will destroy spurs as well.
An improperly set up slipper clutch will help ya chew through parts as well.
I found that after I swapped my chassis braces to aluminum, there was less chassis flex and less chewed gears.
A backwards clutch bell clutch can shorten the life of your clutch bells.
I guess all of these have been mentioned above.
Who wants to change driving style? Haha.
Remember that once you upgrade one thing, something else is bound to break/be the weak link.
It's funny until someone hurts themself then it's hilarious!
If he fixes the true problem there won't be any stripping... That IS the point.
Fix the problem which is causing the spur to strip. Fixing the symptom of the stripped spur is what I find pointless. I know plenty of BB owners using plastic spurs with no issues, they have it set up correctly.... I've been bashing my TMAXX since 2004, racing since 2005. In fact my sons have a TMAXX they share. Both plastic spurs..
My kids did not start out the greatest of drivers as far as throttle control, yet there were still able with the slipper set correctly not to strip spurs like candy.... And plastic spurs are very forgiving in sandy conditions... My 2 have seen beaches and lot's of sand, they did just fine, plastic spurs and all.
It's YOUR R/C and if you prefer steel spurs fine, all's I'm saying is there are tons of people using plastic spurs no problem and they work as long as you go over the points I made. The plastic spur is SUPPOSED to strip if there is something causing the driveline to lock up or bind. Better that than destroying diffs or tranny gears.... Then again, a properly set slipper takes care of that as well... Me, like I said, I'd rather fix the problem then cover it up by hiding the symptom of the problem with a steel spur. I prefer having less rotational mass and and be able to get up to top rpms quicker. The steel spur will rob you of some of that.
As far as driving style being changed, if you are nailing the throttle too hard when you land, going to a steel spur is only going to transfer that force somewhere else.... So a slight change in driving style saves you from tearing up your driveline... You learn how to jump your RC better and land better,,,, that's changing your driving style a little. No big deal and your RC ends up with less problems...
Not everything you upgrade creates something else to break.... Never seen RPM wear plates, an upgrade, cause anything else to break, or going to an upgraded clutch.... So I don't necessarily understand where that comes from.
But,, if you do go with a steel spur, a hardened steel CB is also needed, and most importantly, do not have the slipper too tight, unless you like tearing down trannies and diffs.... :cool;
Last edited by Nitronaught; 03-07-2012 at 02:21 PM.
Founder of H.U.A.
Hop Ups Anonymous