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  1. #41
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. BaldyDaniels's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oaks View Post
    If that chicken smells as good as it looks, I may have to buy me some! Thanks for providing help to the masses once again. Looking forward to the wheels and tires thread and whatever else your cooking for the Hot Racing p2de.
    That's how I roll man! I will be starting a wheels thread pretty quickly, so stay tuned.


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  2. #42
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. BaldyDaniels's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AbSoLooT1 View Post
    I picked up some more of these springs, and realized they are totally perfect for doing this dual rate set-up, OR if someone wants to run black spings, in different rates and not have to use different colors.



    I had ones for the rear, So I thought, and purchased some for the front today.. Once I got home, I realized they are totally short.. Which is great for this. In the pic I grouped em together to show their sizes....

    The Two(packages) on the far right are REAR, 22t. These are Rear sizes for our truck.

    The Package on the very top, that is still for rears ( for Losi) is a few millimeters off the fronts for our trucks.

    and the 3 packages on the left, are half inch shorter than Bandit springs. So they are totally perfect for chop'n off alittle and doing this dual rate set-up.

    Thanks loot, the more info, the better. And who better to contribute then you - the how-to master! rag6 had also mentioned the Traxxas on road springs too which I'm also having a look at. Some of the shock springs I have come across are sooo short that this mod could nearly be done with no cutting of the springs at all. Now that would be ideal!


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  3. #43
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. BaldyDaniels's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by thedreadedend View Post
    Baldy, I would absolutely give these a try! Sorry to be gone and not give a hand here but things have been pretty crazy with 2 builds + "life" lol.this all come together nice huh, and you didn't have to order or wait on a single thing. That's bonus! Best of all, you didn't spend any of the "hard money" as soon as the snow melts, im out jammin the pede and slash. The slash has some Killa shocks on it and pedes sportin the bi's so I may try this as soon as I get a feel for its current set up. Always room for improvement right. I'm still waiting on the shocks for my truck, got the guts ready to go but I ordered the bodies, caps, retainers. That's all for a heavy set truck though, and it will be up for it so, til then I will slap some springs on the table and see what I can do.
    Just as we create some cool stuff and companies take note, produce and sell, someone comes along and takes the money back. Right out of there hand and back to our pockets. Thanks Baldy, this ones a keeper.
    I hear ya man, no worries. When it comes to spending money on these trucks, I'm the same as you, and not too afraid of purchasing something that won't work at the time, cuz eventually we make it work for something else. But at the same time, back in the day, I was in the same shoes as other members too who aren't in a position to be spending money they don't need to be. That's why my first instinct when coming up with a mod like this, is to do it as cheaply as possible. This way it caters to everyone on any budget. And hey, if I can save myself a bunch of money with a mod like this, it just means that saved money can be thrown towards going even bigger with the next buy for my truck! The more money we can save on one mod, the more we can spend on something else, and in regards to shocks, I don't feel this is an area where anyone should have to break the bank to get something that works.


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  4. #44
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    Just wondering baldy; how did yu cut and reform the springs for the upper section? I mean im assuming you cracked out the dremel or other similar cuttin device to get the length you wanted, and a file to clean it up, but did you then just mount the spring up? Or bend the coils to make a flat bottom to rest on? Those ultras above look like they have just been cut and mounted but the TBS' look like they have been flattened onto the retainer in the middle.

    Just wondering on some of the cutting details as ill probably set up my stock shocks like this for my rustler (though im running Ansmann viper 2.0 front shocks on the rear of my rusty). Anyone know if the old old old like mid 90's black springs are stiffer then the new stock white springs?
    VXL P2de, rusty MMP Orion vortex, mid '90's P2de

  5. #45
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. BaldyDaniels's Avatar
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    @Joe, I cut em with the dremel, then just took pliers and bent the very bottom coil up slightly so the spring would sit more flat on the retainer. I did it the same way for both sets of shocks, the upper springs on the tbs shocks just look different cuz they are more compressed as I needed the extra preload to handle the extra weight of the hr p2de XL.
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  6. #46
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    Baldy Daniels, what up man? You must have run a few packs thru the shocks, how are they treating you?

  7. #47
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    Thought that may be the case. Just got to pick up some springs, just not sure if this months busget will allow lol. And then ill be setting this up on my front stock shocks on my rusty.

    Cheers baldy!
    VXL P2de, rusty MMP Orion vortex, mid '90's P2de

  8. #48
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. BaldyDaniels's Avatar
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    @Joe, the best part about this mod is that it doesn't take a really big budget to accomplish, so I'm sure it won't be long until you got yours all set up.

    @Oaks, They've been working really well for me. Only problem is that the more strength I add to my HR P2de XL, the more I push it past its limits. Lol. I actually snapped one of my custom made axles recently on a bad landing, so now I have to take that mod back to the work bench and see what I can do for something stronger. I'm positive that my truck will never be unbreakable, but it sure does take a lot more punishment before a breakage occurs

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  9. #49
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    BaldyDaniels, you sir, know how to rock out a video! The shocks looked like they were really soaking it up, too. You may have the ultimate basher on your hands. Keep it up. And i dont know if it's the color of th body or the cowl hood, but the mj rims look right at home on your truck. Good stuff!

  10. #50
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. BaldyDaniels's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oaks View Post
    BaldyDaniels, you sir, know how to rock out a video! The shocks looked like they were really soaking it up, too. You may have the ultimate basher on your hands. Keep it up. And i dont know if it's the color of th body or the cowl hood, but the mj rims look right at home on your truck. Good stuff!
    Thanks for the props man, much appreciated. My HR P2de is getting tougher every week, but as you can see at the end of that vid, it's not indestructible...yet. I've had so many bad landings with this 7lb+ beast, and came out with snapped axles, busted links/rod ends, shattered wheels and and many broken rpm parts, but now that i don't run any rpm parts besides the bumper, my truck is the strongest it's ever been. On top of that, some of the only parts I've never broken even once, are the protrac arms, the hot racing aluminum parts and Trx aluminum parts. That's why I find it so strange when I hear about so many broken protrac arms, cuz in my setup they are the obvious weak point from being surrounded by all the aluminum and all the added weight, yet I end up snapping an axle made from a grade 8 hardened carbon steel bolt instead of the plastic protrac arm. Go figure...

    I have 5 sets of all front offset monster jam wheels/tires and 2 sets of front/rears that I won off eBay shortly after the Grave digger was released. eBay was so flooded with them that I was scoring complete sets for 24 bucks, then one day I bid on 3 sets and won em all, so I kinda got flooded with em.  They are are a great all around dry surface bashing tire that take a dirty beating, and even though I'm all about the big wheels and low profile tires, I've always had love for the mj series ones. I swear that gt2 body looks good with almost every wheel, but yeah I agree, the mj ones are a good match for sure.



    It's funny cuz i don't really like the look of em on the digger truck they were designed for.
    So far there's only one other body that I like with the Monster Jam wheels/tires.





    Every time I watch that vid of mine, I'm amazed at the difference in quality between the two cameras I used to film those shots. The grainy and mediocre shots were done with a brand new 12 megapixel samsung digi and the crisp quality shots were taken with a contour gps 1080p hd camera. A complete vid shot with the samsung doesn't look bad at all, but put em side by side like that and the 12MP samsung is utterly disappointing in comparison. Money not so well spent I guess. Lol


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  11. #51
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    Has anyone found a spring set that works with out cutting? I know that you found the Losi springs were close, but is there a set I won't have to cut?

  12. #52
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. AbSoLooT1's Avatar
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    UREKA! I did Baldys Dual Rate Spring Set-up. Its worked out AWESOME! I can feel the better performance, compressing it with my hands. Especially directly compared to a stock set-up one. I truely love this mod!


    Spring set-up

    1.8 on top, and 3.4 on bottom....




    making the dual rate support cups.



    What I started out with... a white 1.8 rate spring






    After measurements and cuts. I did have some other red 2.5 rate springs that could have gone on top, and would have only needed one cut for the entire mod. (note to those who dont wanna really cut springs. One cut period) But the route I ended up going, only required two cuts.







    What I got, after I cut..... Notice I flatened the bottom as much as possible.






    Than after it was a bit scratched off of course. Not a problem! busted out my little testors kit, and fixed that right up.. Painted it black, matched flawlessly.



  13. #53
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. AbSoLooT1's Avatar
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    Matched Its gloss and all. Almost like this is what they used. lol.







    Also covered up most of the Silver tag identifying the spring rate. Left alittle bit to see what Im using of course. Let it dry over night.




    Here is the final set-up...



    And BOOM what it looks like! I knew I should have picked up the RPM dual stage med-heavy springs at one of the LHS while they were there, that way I could have added em while the rod ends were off, and the shocks were still dry. But all good, im gonna go the extra mile, and make these some Dual rate, Dual Shock pistons BEEFED up Big bores. Tell yo friends! lol




    You can REALLY feel the difference in performance now side by side of a regular rear big bore shock, next to my newly Baldy done dual rate spring, beefed up Big bores!

    ..Btw.. Notice the his and her! Aww tender. lol. I might do it to her truck too. Well see



    Baldy, U are the man for thinkn of this! The shock compresses so nice. Its almost hard to describe. It feels like a much more expensive shock compressing it with my hands. I think il be using a half size spacer from the feel I had with my hands, compared to the set-up I had before that worked perfectly for me. but I REALLY like this mod! Talk about some beefed up big bores eh? !
    Last edited by AbSoLooT1; 04-22-2012 at 01:17 PM.

  14. #54
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. DiggerPede's Avatar
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    Sweeeeeeeet, not that is totally BUCK!!!! LOL I'm going to build me a set of those for my BBs. I have them on my Sl2sh, and my EMBE. The EMBE has 8 total, looks like i'm going to have some work cut out ahead of me. Good writeup and clean build. I always like reading yalls stuff so informative and perfect for the end user. Keep up the good work and hats off to ya bud!!
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  15. #55
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. DiggerPede's Avatar
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    btw not=now. arhhh
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  16. #56
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. AbSoLooT1's Avatar
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    Thanks brotha man. Im excited about runnin em for the first time... Soon.... weather is SO nice here right now. 84 degrees, and my truck is down! Servo I purchased is glitching without a BEC, and I have to install the mamba to get a feel and see if the Mamba can handle the Savox I got. It just might, well have to see. Bout to go find out! lol

  17. #57
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. BaldyDaniels's Avatar
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    Loot, Ever since you pm'd me about how you were gonna try my dual rates mod, I have to say that I have been anxiously awaiting the results with your personal touches added to it. Your shocks turned out great, and your attention to detail is the icing on the cake for my dual rate mod. Thank you for your efforts and the welcome addition of information to my thread, much appreciated. You'll love the results of this mod, as the handling improvements are very noticeable.

    I ran my dual rate TeamBlueStar's for a month straight until I became complacent about the performance. Then to see how much different it was, I first switched the springs back to a single linear spring and ran them for a week, then to single progressive spring for another week. No matter which spring rates I tried in linear or progressive, I couldn't come up with a setup that came close in performance to the dual rates. The more info that is added to this thread, the more I begin to understand why proline feels that they can charge so much for the powerstrokes, but can still not justify replacing the perfectly good shocks I already own, just to get another set of good shocks with better a better spring setup. All wee needed was the springs upgrade, and now we got em....for any shock we want....in any color we choose....at a price anyone could afford!

    I love the fact that you have the powerstrokes still in the package, yet you decided to do this mod because you could make it match your truck and still get the dual rate improvements. The fact is, that this same thing could be a deal breaker for a lot of r/c enthusiasts, so it's always nice to have options available. Now you should set up the woman's pink shocks as pink dual rates! 




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  18. #58
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    I like the dual rate set-ups on my power-strokes and dual-rates in general. Yes they may be harder to tune but when you get them right there great as then it's not bouncy but can handle a jumps well also.

  19. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by AbSoLooT1 View Post
    Thanks brotha man. Im excited about runnin em for the first time... Soon.... weather is SO nice here right now. 84 degrees, and my truck is down! Servo I purchased is glitching without a BEC, and I have to install the mamba to get a feel and see if the Mamba can handle the Savox I got. It just might, well have to see. Bout to go find out! lol
    I get the Mamba and a capacitor as yes the Mamba probably will handle it better but out of the box the BEC is not set high as it's under 6 volts ( 5.5 ) so it should come with a free coupon for the Castle link ( don't know why they just don't include it ) and then you can change the BEC up to 7 volts. Then the cap should help things too.

  20. #60
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. BaldyDaniels's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Raptorpede View Post
    I get the Mamba and a capacitor as yes the Mamba probably will handle it better but out of the box the BEC is not set high as it's under 6 volts ( 5.5 ) so it should come with a free coupon for the Castle link ( don't know why they just don't include it ) and then you can change the BEC up to 7 volts. Then the cap should help things too.
    The mmp internal bec will likely not be enough to handle the savox digital servo, even with a capacitor. While the capacitor will help some, in situations where you will need to cycle the servo several times in a row, the cap runs out and the receiver browns out from lack of power. It's a known problem of the mmp esc having a weak internal bec, and repeated brown outs can also lead to the burning out of the internal bec. So it'll have to be an external bec with the savox servo or risk the eventual burn out of the internal bec.


    Mmp issues with savox servos (google it, there's thousands of cases)

    http://www.ultimaterc.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=147171

    http://www.rctech.net/forum/radio-el...tting-out.html

    http://www.ultimaterc.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=122595

    http://www.ultimaterc.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=139590

    http://www.ultimaterc.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=140134

    Funny thing is that castle blames it on savox, and savox blames it on castle whenever someone contacts them. Lol

    It could be worse though, cuz I've read of some poor souls who purchased the mmp, savox servo and a spektrum dx3s radio setup. Now that's a recipe for glitching if I ever saw one! Lol
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  21. #61
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. AbSoLooT1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Raptorpede View Post
    I get the Mamba and a capacitor as yes the Mamba probably will handle it better but out of the box the BEC is not set high as it's under 6 volts ( 5.5 ) so it should come with a free coupon for the Castle link ( don't know why they just don't include it ) and then you can change the BEC up to 7 volts. Then the cap should help things too.
    Good advice. I picked up a MMP, and its handeling the 1258tg great. At first it glitched for just a sec, but broke in fast and ran fine right away. But ya, I swooped up a Castle like a while back. Im gonna for sure do so. There are some changes I gotta make.

    I also have a glitch buster as well from Racers Edge. So far so good, and thigs are working nice.

  22. #62
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. AbSoLooT1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BaldyDaniels View Post
    Loot, Ever since you pm'd me about how you were gonna try my dual rates mod, I have to say that I have been anxiously awaiting the results with your personal touches added to it. Your shocks turned out great, and your attention to detail is the icing on the cake for my dual rate mod. Thank you for your efforts and the welcome addition of information to my thread, much appreciated. You'll love the results of this mod, as the handling improvements are very noticeable.

    I ran my dual rate TeamBlueStar's for a month straight until I became complacent about the performance. Then to see how much different it was, I first switched the springs back to a single linear spring and ran them for a week, then to single progressive spring for another week. No matter which spring rates I tried in linear or progressive, I couldn't come up with a setup that came close in performance to the dual rates. The more info that is added to this thread, the more I begin to understand why proline feels that they can charge so much for the powerstrokes, but can still not justify replacing the perfectly good shocks I already own, just to get another set of good shocks with better a better spring setup. All wee needed was the springs upgrade, and now we got em....for any shock we want....in any color we choose....at a price anyone could afford!

    I love the fact that you have the powerstrokes still in the package, yet you decided to do this mod because you could make it match your truck and still get the dual rate improvements. The fact is, that this same thing could be a deal breaker for a lot of r/c enthusiasts, so it's always nice to have options available. Now you should set up the woman's pink shocks as pink dual rates! 




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    Thanks brotha man. Bet ya didnt think id do so, so fast eh I think I messaged ya that very same day! lol. On initial runs, the 1.8s are way to soft. even with thick spacers. I have to try the next set-up. I was rolling over again, and I had em tuned to a point to where I stopped getting my Pede to roll. Went back to the springs I had for a run, and funny... Running new big bores im rolling over again. I put my older tuned big bores on my ladies truck, and now i cant remember what i got lol. Looks like im gonna have to switch back.

    I REALLY think that RPM dual stage pistons would be AWESOME with this mod. They pop shocks back really fast, so one can even run thick oil, than on re-coil they spring back way quick. This mod helps the compression, than the RPM would help out alot of the come back stroke. Thatd be really nice. Think im gonna try that Im also gonna tap in, to see what my older set-up was. Thinkin that 40wt instead of 45 wt and 3 pistons was workin out for me better than 45wt, and 2 hole pistons. Funny how suspenion tunning works eh? Its a thing of beauty once the Pedes are tuned right though. Thats for sure!

  23. #63
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    Just a note on the savox and MMP. i cant remeber which savox exactly - can check tonight. But i h r a metal geared i believe digital savox servo in my rusty with an MMP and havnt once had a problem with it. I havnt got a link card yet so havnt messed with any settings. Maybe i just got lucky!
    VXL P2de, rusty MMP Orion vortex, mid '90's P2de

  24. #64
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. BaldyDaniels's Avatar
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    Yeah, tuning the shocks takes a lot of trial and error for sure. I'm having a couple issues with my shocks now as well, but it has nothing to do with my mod, but everything to do with trying to land a 7+ lb p2de from 15-20 feet up. I'm trying to get away from a quick rebounding shock, cuz my hr p2de is so heavy that the springs would make the truck bounce upon landing, but at the same time I need the shock to compress fast enough to prevent the shock hardware from ripping out or the shafts bending and snapping. Lol. I'm gonna order some 8th scale shocks and then make em dual rates and see how that works out. I was considering fabricating mounts for a dual shock setup, but then I'd have 8 headaches to deal with. if I can find the shock I need for the hr p2de, I'll be good to go, cuz I've been really enjoying manipulating the truck in mid air, which has got me launching the truck a lot higher to give more opportunity to do so. But these huge launches have exceeded my shock's capabilities by a long shot.


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  25. #65
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    If the shock is bottoming out, or rebounding too fast, increase oil wt. If the truck is not bottoming out, but bouncing, the oil may be too heavy or springs too stiff? Sounds like a fine line teeter totter you are on.
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  26. #66
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. BaldyDaniels's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rag6 View Post
    If the shock is bottoming out, or rebounding too fast, increase oil wt. If the truck is not bottoming out, but bouncing, the oil may be too heavy or springs too stiff? Sounds like a fine line teeter totter you are on.
    Here's what has been happening with each combination I've tried so far, all using 2 hole shock pistons, 30 weight for the lighter oil and 45 weight for the heavier oil. Landings are from around 12-15 feet high.

    Stiffer springs and lighter oil = bouncing on the rebound, mild bottoming out

    Lighter springs and heavier oil = agressively bent shock shafts, snapped bottom mounting hardware

    Stiffer springs and heavier oil = snapped or bent shock shaft, broken rod ends, snapped mounting hardware

    Lighter springs and lighter oil = not even gonna bother with this one.

    Dual rate spring setup with stiffer lower spring and soft upper using lighter oil = mild bottoming out, mild shaft bending, mild hardware bending.

    The last one is the closest I've come to getting it right, and is also the setup I was running in the vids I posted earlier in this thread. This setup is good for 10-12 foot drops, but anything higher and it's not enough. The mild bottoming out doesn't bother me so much, it's the bent shafts that I hate cuz I have to open up the shock to fix it. This is why I'm gonna upgrade to shocks with 4mm shafts at least. It's the design of almost all rc shocks that causes the bent/broken shafts. If the shock could hold the shaft very firmly to keep it vertical and in line with the shock body, it would take a lot more force to bend a shaft. Kinda like trying to bent a steel bar by pushing on the ends. Need an airbag setup for rc! Anybody know of one? Or an adjustable gas charged shock setup. Lol


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  27. #67
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    put a 1/4" of fuel tube on the shaft, outside the body. This has really helped prevent bent shafts in the past for me. That tubing may take up just enough of the impact during bottoming to stop the shafts from bending. Also bottoming out a little is a good thing.
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  28. #68
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. BaldyDaniels's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rag6 View Post
    put a 1/4" of fuel tube on the shaft, outside the body. This has really helped prevent bent shafts in the past for me. That tubing may take up just enough of the impact during bottoming to stop the shafts from bending. Also bottoming out a little is a good thing.
    This method would be fine...if my shafts were bending while inside the shock body. They do bend inside once in a while and it's always obvious cuz the truck looks sacked out from the shaft being wedged inside. But 90% of the time, my shafts bend at a 90 degree angle while extended which would make one assume that the oil was too heavy or not enough holes in the piston, but if I remedy this issue than I just get other issues. Lol. I think that my hr pede is just simply too heavy for the 3mm shafts, which is ok because as soon as I upgrade to some crazy shocks, it'll give me the opportunity to try making my own larger diameter shafts.


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  29. #69
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. BaldyDaniels's Avatar
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    TEAMBLUESTAR shocks, originally made for 3mm shafts, now fitted with custom made 4mm shafts:

    I had said earlier in this thread that I figured I could pull off making some thicker shock shafts and get them to work in the TBS shocks....well i did it! And it wasn't too difficult At all.

    New custom made/fit 4mm hardened steel shock shafts for the teambluestar shocks. One of the best options of the powerstroke shocks is that the e-clip for holding the shock piston was replaced with a nut on the shaft. Yep, I got that too! the shafts are hardened steel rod with a zinc coating.They will likely show signs of wear faster than a shaft coated using a hard-chroming process, but for the 50 cents I paid for the rod, I'm sure I'll get my money's worth. Thread cutting die was used to thread both ends of the shaft in fine metric thread to match the nuts used.

    The shaft hole of the shock bodies was drilled out to 4mm, but was binding a little bit so a dremel and cone shaped fine grain grinding bit was used to make the edge of the hole smooth and remove any burrs left from the 4mm drill bit and the binding ceased. Same lock ring was used to hold in bottom spacer and seals. Plastic piston shaft hole drilled out to 4mm to accommodate the larger shaft. Same bladder used and shocks filled with fluid, then cap installed with shaft fully compressed.

    Here's a couple pics of the prototype shafts and hardware:





    The final design has smaller diameter nuts and I ground the bottom nut to half the thickness of the one in the pics. I had installed them in the shock bodies to test them out and forgot to take pics of the finished shaft, but it worked perfectly with no leaks using the same 3mm shaft seals, stretched onto the 4mm shaft. I drilled out the center of the plastic spacers for the bottom seals, which by the way, was probably the hardest part of this mod. Lol. Tough to hold them lil buggers tight enough to drill em out without squishing them (the trick is to use a very sharp drill bit).

    Oh yeah, and for all you technical guys who are wondering how I counteracted the fluid displacement of the larger shaft and hardware without using a bigger bladder: Simple, I just used a rubber flat washer (the kind for a household faucet seal). This type of seal under the bladder still allowed for a good cap seal, while the hole in the center of the rubber washer effectively made the capacity of the bladder's air chamber larger, thereby allowing for more fluid displacement. I didn't think of this issue until I had the first shock assembled and filled and could not get the shock to fully compress without hydrolocking. I didn't want to run emulsion shocks with no bladder, so I came up with the rubber washer solution.

    This mod may seem like it could be a long process to get sorted out, but I did the first rear shock from start to finish in a couple hours. Once I knew the working order, the second shock only took about 20 mins to complete. This mod could also be done in far less time if some larger diameter shafts of the correct length were simply purchased from an online or local hobby shop and only the shock body modified to accommodate the larger shaft. I chose to make my own shafts simply because I wasn't sure if it was going to work as well as it does. Now I'm on the hunt for 4mm TiN shafts of correct length for the TBS shocks which are the same shaft length as ultras.





    Thanks for reading, enjoy!
    Last edited by BaldyDaniels; 05-05-2012 at 01:49 AM.
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  30. #70
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. BaldyDaniels's Avatar
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    And while I had the ol' tap & die set out, I decided to cut and re-tap the threads on some 6mm diameter aluminum axial tube links that a buddy of mine gave to me at no cost. Two of the links were originally 98mm in length without rod ends, and the other two were 106mm without rod ends. They were all anodized gun metal color, so I stuck each one in the chuck of my high speed drill and spun them against some 800 grit wet dry sandpaper to get rid of the ano, then 2000 grit to smooth em up, then made em shine with mothers aluminum polish. *I decided that since the front links are the ones I always manage to bend or break, that I would replace them with the 6mm tubes. Since it looked strange having 6mm links right above my 4mm turnbuckles, I opted to replace the TB's with 6mm tubes as well. I then cut and threaded the 4mm rods to fit as the rear camber links and it worked real nice.*











    A little tip in regards to cutting threads:

    For anyone who has considered cutting new thread on aluminum, don't attempt to do this without using a good quality drilling lube or penetrant. Use Often and ample amounts and threads will cut perfectly. Trying to cut fine metric threads of this small size, or even large sizes for that matter, will not turn out well if you run the tool while dry. The the tool will just clog and smear the metal around and will not cut proper threads, if any at all. Not to mention the worst part will be when you try and back the tool out, as the clog will cause the tool to lock into the hole and too much force will break the tap off in the metal, leaving you with a mangled mess.

    I use liquid wrench L4 penetrant and apply it about every couple of threads and it cuts perfectly every time. The tap & die set I use is very far from new. I inherited it from my grandfather and it is older than I am. Lube is key to success in threading soft alloys like aluminum, and also yields way better results *(with less elbow grease) when used for threading any harder metals/alloys as well.*
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