Results 1 to 10 of 10
  1. #1
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    19

    Formal intro and suspension setup questions

    I just want to introduce myself. I had a post here a while ago looking for opinions on a rally vxl or a revo.
    Well I got my rally and couldn't be happier. Just what I wanted. I already cracked a frame but that's another story. Anyways I just got my thunder charger and spc lipos. Also some nice grippy road tires. I love the
    Handling now but I have a lot of body roll and it tends to flip. What have you guys done to keep the cars more stable. I notice if I stay on the gas through the turn it sticks better. It's when I let off and get back on it
    Wants to roll. What springs, Shock oil, wheel spacers work for you guys? Thanks

  2. #2
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Bay Area, CA
    Posts
    438
    Drop it low and tune toe (particularly in the rear) really carefully... Stiffer springs (TRX 4.3 & 3.4) let the car get lower and still have some tension to keep it off the ground. A couple degrees of camber and just a little toe-in. Too little toe, or rear toe-out will whip this thing around like a top, flipsville. I found that even little adjustments in toe (both pillow balls in or out together) make a big difference in how the car responds into, through, and out of a corner.

    Also how you drive... controlled speed, smoothness, slow in / fast out. The super-short wheelbase, very high and rearward center of gravity all make the 1/16ths quite lively and are characteristics that ultimately need to be driven around.

    What grippy tires did you pick up?
    The prototype project.

  3. #3
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Royersford, Pa
    Posts
    542
    I think prtotyp covered it all. I have done all he said and have toyed with adding wights to the underside of the chassis with some success
    STRC Slash 4x4
    Hobby Hut Raceway, Audubon Pa.

  4. #4
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    19
    http://www.hobbypartz.com/51c00-02020-yellow.html

    These are the tires I bought and they grip like crazy. For the price in really impressed. They are already glued. They are the
    Same exact size as the stockers. So 4.3 springs go up front an the 3.4 in the rear? Also what about shock oil? And a center diff? Thanks for the reply. I didnt think you could adjust toe in with the pillow balls, I thought they just did camber. I can't wait to get this thing handling good. But I do know you need a lot for patience and control with the throttle. Thanks guys

  5. #5
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Royersford, Pa
    Posts
    542
    I run the 4.3 springs front and rear, only cause thats what i have. the rear w 3.4 would be better. I still cant decide if i like the center diff. i have tried the center with both 50k and 100k diff fluid, and i like it better with 100k. As far as shock weight i'm using 40wt right now, but i have used 80wt in the past. i like the 80wt for drifting but for grip driving i like the 40wt. Of course i just ordered a set of new aluminum shocks, that are kinda like bigbores so i'm prolly gonna have to start all over again when i get them lol. owell adds to the fun!

    Oh yeah and i forgot mention Welcome to the forums!
    STRC Slash 4x4
    Hobby Hut Raceway, Audubon Pa.

  6. #6
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    89
    Quote Originally Posted by Motojoe View Post
    I didnt think you could adjust toe in with the pillow balls, I thought they just did camber. I can't wait to get this thing handling good. But I do know you need a lot for patience and control with the throttle.
    Think of the pillow balls as 2 points on a triangle...the third point is the steering linkage connection to the wheel hub. (rearward of the pillow balls) So by unscrewing the pillow balls counterclockwise, you bring the front of the tires outward for positive toe or toe out...screwing them in clockwise gives you negative toe or toe in. (I think this is all in the manual ) Just keep the rotation amounts top to bottom equal or you'll affect your camber.

    Enjoy the car for whatever purpose you wish, but keep in mind that this chassis is just not the best layout for grip/road racing...the CG is pretty high, and the wheelbase is kinda short. You can work around it to an extent, but it'll never achieve the cornering capabilities of a well-setup 1/10 scale racer or anything.

    There is a huge amount of setup information in this article here. It's geared more toward drifting, but much of the setup carries over to grip driving as well. (understanding the importance of corner-balancing or "tweak" as it's referred to in the article, etc.)

    Good luck with it!

  7. #7
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Bay Area, CA
    Posts
    438
    I've settled on the 4.3 springs front, 3.4 rear... 60wt goo in both but have a smaller "red" valve in the rears vs a more open "black" one up front. Needed to slow down the rear shocks' rebound.
    The prototype project.

  8. #8
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    89
    Quote Originally Posted by prototyp View Post
    ...have a smaller "red" valve in the rears vs a more open "black" one up front. Needed to slow down the rear shocks' rebound.
    You can't affect the rebound without also affecting compression with changes to piston, oil, or spring...you slowed them both down by doing that. You can make a one-way flap for the piston holes that will allow the piston to travel faster in one direction than the other though. There are DIY article on other forums about how to do it...pretty simple really, just need something like a freezer bag to cut the little circular flap pieces out of.

  9. #9
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Bay Area, CA
    Posts
    438
    Quote Originally Posted by killboydotcom View Post
    You can make a one-way flap for the piston holes that will allow the piston to travel faster in one direction than the other though. There are DIY article on other forums about how to do it...pretty simple really, just need something like a freezer bag to cut the little circular flap pieces out of.
    Flap valve, that's quite clever. I just used the taper-drill-on-one-side approach to avoid making compression too closed up with the smaller valve. Worked well enough, but thanks for flap the idea... going to have to go tinker with the shocks some more.

    Fwiw, the swanky GTRX teflon/aluminum/TiN shocks are an impressive upgrade from the stock kit.
    The prototype project.

  10. #10
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    WV
    Posts
    1,424
    RPM makes dual stage shock pistons for the 1/10 scale shocks. They are two piece that seperate during rebound. Same principle.
    [_] |||||||| [_]

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •