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  1. #1
    RC Racer
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    1st RC, but want to do it right.

    * I accidentally posted this in the wrong sub-forum. Here it is for y'all to advise me on:
    So, I've been creeping these boards a bit, trying to figure things out before I go make my first purchase.

    I think I've deceided on the 1/16 E Revo Brushless. I was contemlating the Mini 8ight, but think the E Revo is more up my alley.

    I am wondering what things I should purchase right off the bat....or if I should just run the car until I need to replace things.

    What do you advise?
    Should I switch out / add to the batteries straight away?
    Should I be beefing up any ill equipped OEM parts with aftermarket goods for better durability?
    Should I pick up any of the commonly broken / worn out pieces just to have them on hand.

    ^^ if yes to that question, what are those parts?

    The reason I ask, is Traxxas supplies are a good 40 minute drive from my house, and online order is not time efficient.

    More questions will inevitably follow, but thanks in advance for any help provided.

  2. #2
    RC Racer
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    first of all, welcome to the forum and good choice on the traxxas choice. i have a wall of rc's and find traxxas to be very durable and popular enough that most hobby shops can get the parts within a day or two.

    i'm sure guys will give you a laundry list of parts that are cool upgrades, but i can tell you from my experience that you wont need much. and trust me i bash it HARD. i had the servo strip within a few battery packs...traxxas was nice enough to send me a replacement that hasnt broke yet but i know a few guys that put in a hitec mg85.
    in my opinion the first thing i needed was more batteries 2s or 3s lipos. you get 10 to 20 minutes out of an 1800-2000mah battery...so for me the most important thing was to get enough run time to have fun. make sure to let your revo rest and cool between battery packs.
    now my friends that have put on aftermarket wheels, which are bigger and heavier than stock wheels do break more stuff than me and i dont think they bash as hard as i do. i still use a traxxas servo but they need a metal gear servo . also they need aluminum knuckles and new bearings...just cause the wheels are heavier.
    i bought a pack of black and brown springs for the shocks, extra lipo batteries and traxxas sent me a replacement servo. oh and i bought those rubber grabbers that hold onto your body clips...i constantly lose and bend up the body clips so i'd get some extras there too. have fun bro

  3. #3
    RC Champion
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    Welcome to the forums!

    The 1/16 E-Revo is a great starter truck, and can be made into a very durable truck! Start with the basics like RPM stuff - A-Arms from RPM are great and practically bullet proof. Get some aluminum knuckles (like the HR ones), and remember to shim your differentials (putting washers on the differentials to make them have a tighter fit so that they won't strip). I'd also advise you to get a decent charger so that you won't have to wait 6 hours to run your truck. You can find a nice charger like the Thunder AC6 for $50 and it can charge multiple types of battery packs. If you run on tar a lot, I'd suggest getting some different tires, as the stock ones tend to wear down fast on hard surfaces.

    Have fun!



    E'VXL
    Just accelerate, and only good will come.

  4. #4
    RC Champion
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    i just ordered my merv vxl, im deep into rc stuff so i went ahead and ordered along with it this for now..

    -hitec hs-85mg high torque metal geared servo
    -rpm arms all the way around
    - parallel connector
    -2s 7.4v 2200mah x2
    -50w shock oil
    -4x black springs
    -2 sets of 2 GH knuckles
    -2 sets of 4 shims for the diffs

    ill be adding a rpm front bumper and a chassis support plate in the future, and maybe heavier duty steel driveshafts
    Traxxas is good, but so are other Manus

  5. #5
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    Upgrade that badboy as much as u can believe me once u put ur first upgrade on u cant stop!!!!!!

  6. #6
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    just dont do aluminum a-arms, or body mounts, or bumpers or bumper mounts/wing mounts in aluminum, and most of the aluminum frames i see are pretty thin they look kind of weak.... compared to my 4mm racing chassis i have on my tmaxx anyway... and its hard to say it but i think my merv will be taking alot more abuse then my maxx.. and stay away from integy aluminum, ive used it and its weak, its cast then cnc'ed not straight cnc'ed from a solid chunk of aluminum and its not high grade aluminum...
    Traxxas is good, but so are other Manus

  7. #7
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    Yea the only thing i have aluminum is my bulkheads cuz i kept breaking my chassis in two an i dont have a diff problem aft that to come to think about it

  8. #8
    RC Racer
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    Instead of starting a new thread I'll just ask here: I had an E-revo 1/10 brushed about 5 years ago, couldnt afford to keep it at the time so I got rid of it... well, I'm tired of being without an RC so I've been saving. Will i be "disappointed" with the merv since I had a 1/10 erevo? What I mean by disappointed is by how much smaller it is, will it still do all the 1/10 did when i had it? it looks sooo much smaller than the 1/10 erevo but by all ive read and seen it looks like the merv is still an amazing rc to have.

  9. #9
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    i think the best thing i did right out of the box other than 2 2s lipos in parallel was a wheely bar, i ran it for about 2 minutes without the wheely bar and put it on, unless you want to grind the spoiler off on your first pack, i ordered mine when i ordered the truck

  10. #10
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    I use to have an emaxx an got rid of it yea its smaller but i think ull got just as much if not more enjoyment out of it an the good thing is if u completely trash it it doesnt cost that much to fix!

  11. #11
    RC Racer
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    very true corey, smaller, cheaper batteries and what not. Thanks.
    I'm sure ill like it but I was just wondering what others thought.

  12. #12
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    Well welcome to the forum an i hope u enjoy it as much as we all do!

  13. #13
    RC Racer
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    Ive been here for a while, I just forgot my account info from when i had a 1/10 e revo. But thanks, Im anxious to get back into the hobby and see what brushLESS is like.

    im only going for long run times and 30+, do you reccomend a wheelie bar?

  14. #14
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    Yes wheelie bar is a must if u r driving onroad i dont have one cuz ive had other stuff i wanted to get first but if u dont want to chew the wing off of it then yea i would get a wheelie bar

  15. #15
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    nah ill be off road so will i still need one? pry doesnt hurt?

  16. #16
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    Na wouldnt hurt to have one i dont run its all personal preference

  17. #17
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    yea ik its all personal, was jw what you and others have.

  18. #18
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    Yea i sont have one right now but plan on getting one its kinda fun trying to get throttle control down an ride a wheelie for a long time an then u mess up an the car goes cartwheeling

  19. #19
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    Thanks guys. I just realized that reading this stuff on the forum, didn't equip me very well with the parts that you'd all throw at me.....lol

    I had to look up the owners manual of the truck to figure out wth you're all referring to.

    I am an avid downhill mountain biker and have built many bikes exceeding 10k from scratch. Upgrading is a bit of an addiction, but obviously, like biking, I want sensible upgrades and hop ups, not blingy ones. If they bling, and are functional, or improvements over the stock ones, then that's a good purchase. no sense replacing a good stock part with something nicer looking, but inferior in quality.

    I see lots of aluminum options from Integy....seems that could be tempting, but I will heed the advice from Kusk, and be wary of what might just be a sht part to put on.

    Can anyone recommend a good aftermarket supplier? If it goes against the TOS, then just shoot me a PM.

  20. #20
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    People havent been very impressed with integy parts for the revo or the slash

  21. #21
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    A good company for ur suspension arms is RPM lightwieght plastic beefier than stock havemt broke one yet after three years i think thats how long ive had the merv maybe a little less. Gpm or hr are a good aluminum parts company

  22. #22
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    Aluminum pushrods, aluminum turnbuckles, and steel driveshafts. Don't get the second battery right off the bat, because the 1/16 E-Revo VXL is extremly fast without the high speed battery, connector, and pinion gear. Get used to 30+ MPH first before you go to 50+ MPH so you don't end up with a ripped shell or other broken stuff. Upgrade to aluminum pushrods, ect. and steel driveshafts before going to 50+ MPH.
    And there he goes with the carbon...

  23. #23
    RC Racer
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    Quote Originally Posted by MooseSlash View Post
    Aluminum pushrods, aluminum turnbuckles, and steel driveshafts. Don't get the second battery right off the bat, because the 1/16 E-Revo VXL is extremly fast without the high speed battery, connector, and pinion gear. Get used to 30+ MPH first before you go to 50+ MPH so you don't end up with a ripped shell or other broken stuff. Upgrade to aluminum pushrods, ect. and steel driveshafts before going to 50+ MPH.
    Thanks Moose.....appreciate the advice. I know there are probably a lot of speed demons here, and I'll likely look like a drunk driver for the first little while. 50mph is ridiculous, and going straight there.....will be nothing but a mistake for a beginner.

    So, get used to the speed, then upgrade batteries (and charger etc), and build it up to handle the additional stress from higher speed?

    So, not to make this too redundant, I'd like a reference page for when I actually make the move to 50...

    Run stock till comfortable, then:

    (can someone fill in the blanks here....."etc" may work for a veteran, but I need a plan of attack....)

    Money really isn't much of a problem, but, i also don't want to have a $300 truck and $800 in accessories....so in that respect, it might be a prblem if that's my qualifier.....cause I don't want to rock a full carbon / titanium tricked out, blinged up rig. (yet, lol)

  24. #24
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    Here is what i did. Any part that i broke on my merv lets say one of the suspension arms i went ahead an bought the rpm arms for all four corners. When i broke a knuckle i bought the aluminum knucks for all for corners an as for the pushrods an turnbuckles i ordered those the day after i got the truck. There stuff u can wait on an there is stuff that u can get first to improve the handling which will make it easier for u to drive like shock oil an springs, push rod an turnbuckle ends with steel hollow balls to take the slop out of the steering an the aluminum knuckles help alot with the slop too. But once u drive it u will figure out what u want later an what u want now.

  25. #25
    RC Racer
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    Get aluminium replacements for part 7034 (Axle carriers). Thats all i needed after a year of owning a slash.

  26. #26
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    The only things i have really broke i guess where two a arms left side front an back i hit a tree an i guess it broke the fromt an when i landed it broke the back an broke the chassis twice first time it broke the rear bulkhead to an the second time it broke the front bulk to an ive been thro three diffs an broke one stock knuckle an ginded thro the front skid plate an ripped the front shock tower off iv only went thro a couple u joints thats y i have dished out 60$ for steal axles

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by limited60 View Post

    Run stock till comfortable, then:
    Upgrade to 50+ MPH and the aluminum and steel stuff. But the transition from 30 to 50 MPH is huge, so it might take a while for you to get comfortable with 50 MPH, but the stronger upgrades will stablize the MERV to where it will be much easier fo you to drive it.
    And there he goes with the carbon...

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