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  1. #1
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. thedreadedend's Avatar
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    thedreadedends sl2sh proline slash mt with monster mods

    I love my 2wd slash but, not for racing. I race a sl4sh cause in my area, the 2wd class is huge for both stock and mod classes.. so the 4wd mod group is less than 30 on a weekly average. Not to mention, we always get dibs on the outdoor track.. k, anyway, I got a slash in a trade with a kid awhile back, its been through all kinds of looks and parts, bodies, I don't think anything is left of the traded slash lol.
    The set up im running these days is pretty cool, well to me anyway, I know most of you guys love to race and enjoy the sct as is. And I do on occasion too but seems to brake more in that form.
    Slash raptor black chassis, posts, bulkhead
    Jconcepts raptor lid (upgrade)
    CC sct 2400/MMP (upgrade)
    Stock rebuilt diff 50,000wt. (Upgrade)
    32p gears 22/50 (upgrade)
    Sl4sh hd shafts/axles (upgrade)
    Trx 2075 servo
    Sl4sh bellcrank (upgrade)
    proline protrac f/r a arms, towers (upgrade)
    trx big bore shocks 50wt front / 75wt rear (upgrade)
    Integy progressive springs (upgrade)
    Proline skids, bumper (upgrade)
    Proline chassis saver (upgrade)
    Trx red toe links for pede as front cambers (really thick tube design unlike the thin cambers they have) this part will change to a slayer pro p2 red pushrod this week.(mod)
    Rear cambers are trx red slayer pro p2 push rods. (Mod)
    proline 2.8 trenchers trimmed for 3.2 wheels (mod)
    wheels are ofna mt3 chrome splits 100% offset (mod)
    trx blue 17mm hex adaprltors
    RPM slash rear bumper (mod)
    trx wheelie red bar wheels (mod)
    Trx red f/r carriers and front c blocks (upgrade)
    Custom power switch placement (mod)
    Custom MMP esc mount plate (mod)

    Well here's my truck today with a bash body. Crushed the internals of my diff today jumping this island. Notice I don't leave a landing pad..... I clear the whole thing lol sometimes to the street but I try ti land on the down side after the bush at the far end.

    I'll be posting all the mods and set up pick next few days, got a few more parts to add this week as we go. so see ya later





    Last edited by thedreadedend; 01-10-2012 at 02:33 AM.
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  2. #2
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    Why the proline arms, towers, and chassis brace?

  3. #3
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. thedreadedend's Avatar
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    Proline arms extend 11mm longer than stock arms and 3mm for each side on rears. With the protrac arms I can run the same offset on f/r witch makes life convenient when ordering and you can rotate tires. Also, the arms and towers work together (protrac kit) to give an amazing suspension response. You get a super plush feel and less roll in a big way. The tuning options are awesome too, many more than stock parts offer. I've been running this protrac set up on all my 2wd trucks for over a year, all have shown the benefits very quickly after swapping the parts over. As for skids, the rear is a one piece rap around design that gets rid off the rear bumper braked. Super rugged too. I simply like the looks of the front bumper but its nice to have it all marched up. I'm not racing this set up but function does have a roll in the truck. Some is just looks but protrac is functional. A proline chassis saver is a must for any owner that gets air with this truck. I've broken 2 in a week without the saver. Imo, its a first option and upgrade.
    I'm not a hatchet man! I'm a maggot!

  4. #4
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    those slayer links looks FAT! I want those... All of them... Are they the right length for protrac all around or just the rears that you have? Any info on the mod involved to get them work properly?
    'Life is for living, not living uptight'

  5. #5
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. thedreadedend's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RallySoob View Post
    those slayer links looks FAT! I want those... All of them... Are they the right length for protrac all around or just the rears that you have? Any info on the mod involved to get them work properly?
    No mods, no changes. I turned the ends out ╝ turn and it fits nice. This will fit front and rear for protrac cambers. The fronts will need a couple additional turns on the adjustable ends for the length you desire but ya, f/r cambers, no mods. They are listed as slayer p2 push rods part # 5918x, you may find they have a black alloy option too. I haven't checked yet. I'm working on a toe link alternative, got the parts ordered and the length is right but I want them on the truck before I say what they are lol,, they are huge traxxas alloy links too. You'll see .. here's some pix of the rears your looking at.

    This link set was a discovery for me while at the lhs last night. I had a toe sand camber in my pocket so I could size some new "monster links" up for this build. They give ample clearance also

    Im going to take a pic of the protrac and trx links with this one. I'll get the pic up in a minute.
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  6. #6
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. thedreadedend's Avatar
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    Ok here are some comparison pix, first up is protrac and slayer links SxS

    Now trx rear camber for slash.

    K, now that same link was my rear cambers till now so same size of course. Here it is in front just to show it will fit.

    And here is how the rear sits with the slayers set at 1/4 turn out using top camber hole on towers. Just a couple degrees in, that's what I like.
    I'm not a hatchet man! I'm a maggot!

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by thedreadedend View Post
    Proline arms extend 11mm longer than stock arms and 3mm for each side on rears. With the protrac arms I can run the same offset on f/r witch makes life convenient when ordering and you can rotate tires. Also, the arms and towers work together (protrac kit) to give an amazing suspension response. You get a super plush feel and less roll in a big way. The tuning options are awesome too, many more than stock parts offer. I've been running this protrac set up on all my 2wd trucks for over a year, all have shown the benefits very quickly after swapping the parts over. As for skids, the rear is a one piece rap around design that gets rid off the rear bumper braked. Super rugged too. I simply like the looks of the front bumper but its nice to have it all marched up. I'm not racing this set up but function does have a roll in the truck. Some is just looks but protrac is functional. A proline chassis saver is a must for any owner that gets air with this truck. I've broken 2 in a week without the saver. Imo, its a first option and upgrade.
    Well if i go with a slash, i will have to find that brace.. How have the arms held up in-comparison with RPM?

  8. #8
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. thedreadedend's Avatar
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    In my experience of bashing hard, I broke a front from a 55gal barrel and a rear from catching a concrete edge sticking up off the sidewalk, that one just grabbed the truck and spun it like crazy. It completely demolished the arm lol. Both cases were in mid 30░temps so, cold has a roll in durability with Proline's components. I do believe RPM can outlast them to be honest but I prefer the less flex and wider stance of protrac system.
    I'm not a hatchet man! I'm a maggot!

  9. #9
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    is there any advantage to running 32p gears over 48p
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  10. #10
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Quote Originally Posted by rebelneckrc View Post
    is there any advantage to running 32p gears over 48p
    32p is more durable. You don't need the gear cover, and they have more tolerance on mesh... The only downside is they're noisey, and now you'll have an exposed spur that will eat anything that gets in it, and win.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by ducati777 View Post
    32p is more durable. You don't need the gear cover, and they have more tolerance on mesh... The only downside is they're noisey, and now you'll have an exposed spur that will eat anything that gets in it, and win.
    think i may have to change to 32p i aint concerned about noise. i have a sl2sh with a mmp and cc 2 pole 4600kv mtr what gearing do you recommend
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  12. #12
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. thedreadedend's Avatar
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    What's your gearing right now, in 48p?
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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by thedreadedend View Post
    What's your gearing right now, in 48p?
    i was running 19/90 i changed to 16/90 but haven't tried it yet. with 19/90 at about 15 min of run time the motor was up to about 168 F.
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  14. #14
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. thedreadedend's Avatar
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    If your running 19/90 id start around 11/54 or 13/56 and if 19/90 was hot , and that's why you geared down start with 9t or 10t with 54 or 56 spur.
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  15. #15
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    You can fit up to a 58... don't be shy about trying gear ratios...


  16. #16
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. thedreadedend's Avatar
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    I would certainly agree with that ^^^^ A couple of teeth or sometimes just one tooth can make a drastic difference. In some cases you could be choking the power and don't even know it. A few teeth can bring intense power that's as different as night and day. But, on the other hand, you could slow right down and cog like an epileptic seizure. Get a selection of gears, keep it under 170░, and see where your sweet spot is. I try to find a gear set that allows smooth and rough for the full pack. This way, I can do what ever I want with no consequence to my electronics.
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  17. #17
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    thanks for all the input, i'll deffinately try the 32p gears, why are the spur gears for 32p so much fewer teeth than 48p
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  18. #18
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. thedreadedend's Avatar
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    The teeth on 32p are thick and deep. Theirs less because they're bigger. 48p pretty much come to a short, point. 38p are more like thick lugs.
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  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by thedreadedend View Post
    The teeth on 32p are thick and deep. Theirs less because they're bigger. 48p pretty much come to a short, point. 38p are more like thick lugs.
    this may be a dumb ? but does 32p help with motor temps, cause i'm concerned about mtr temp if i go from 16/90 48p to 15/56 32p.
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  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by rebelneckrc View Post
    this may be a dumb ? but does 32p help with motor temps, cause i'm concerned about mtr temp if i go from 16/90 48p to 15/56 32p.
    Well do the math, is it close to the same ratio? If you keep the same ratio the temps ought to stay the same too.

  21. #21
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    I love the look of your MT Slash and I think I might use some of your mods next week.

    I may have missed it, but what HD drive shaft/axles are you using?? Are they from a Slash 4x4?

    Last year I changed my Pede and one of my Slash's to 14/32p and love it. The temps are ok, it sounds cool and I love cheap mods that work. And it's a super easy mod to do.
    My Black & Blue Rally is faster than your color...

  22. #22
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. thedreadedend's Avatar
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    I am using sl4sh/p4de shafts. They hold up pretty good for 3s but I still gotta take it easy on 4s.

    Added front cambers today. Lhs says my 3rd pair and spacer will be in Tuesday. That will be the toe link set and it takes care of that end of the build. Here's a couple pix.

    These things are so thick next to the vxl or alloy upgrades, they look awesome.

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  23. #23
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ducati777 View Post
    You can fit up to a 58... don't be shy about trying gear ratios...

    Actually you can fit a 60 tooth.
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  24. #24
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. thedreadedend's Avatar
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    I got the parts today to finish the slayer link set for protrac. I picked up a pack of slayer pro alloy push rod spacers also, adding 3 spacers for a 9mm difference. Here's a pic of my toe links, new and old

    And the full install with 3 pair slayer pro push rods and one pack push rod spacers replacing protrac links all around.



    You also have the option of steel links witch would be a cheaper alternative too. You would simply buy the stock slayer push rods . I also imagine plenty of aftermarket links are out there too
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  25. #25
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    Will the added spacers weaken the ability of the end to hold the link?

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by rag6 View Post
    Actually you can fit a 60 tooth.

    oooo, I don't think i've tried a 60.... Thats even better because it can be difficult to get a short enough ratio in 32p.

  27. #27
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    If i were to switch to 32p would i still be able to use the Traxxas slipper or would i needed to switch cause i was looking at some 32p the other night and it said i had to switch the slipper parts for the associated slipper

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  28. #28
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    you can use the same slipper.

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by ILSlasher1980 View Post
    If i were to switch to 32p would i still be able to use the Traxxas slipper or would i needed to switch cause i was looking at some 32p the other night and it said i had to switch the slipper parts for the associated slipper

    Sent from my SPH-M820-BST using Tapatalk
    You're probably thinking of the dudes who go with a 32 pitch Associated slipper....

    Most people, myself included, run Traxxas spurs, they pop right onto the existing slipper.

  30. #30
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    Ahhhhh ok cool

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  31. #31
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ducati777 View Post
    oooo, I don't think i've tried a 60.... Thats even better because it can be difficult to get a short enough ratio in 32p.
    Its as big as you can possibly get in 32 on there. Its from HR.
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  32. #32
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    this is off topic but i got a question. i bought a set of mip cvds for my sl2sh. i installed them today and every time i give it gas they come out of the cups at the tranny, any ideas on why and/or how to elimate this issue.
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  33. #33
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. thedreadedend's Avatar
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    monster wheels mod

    Today we will look at how I mounted up my wheels/tires combo. This mod was shown to me by BaldyDaniels, he has regular beaded tires on stablemaxx wheels but I wanted a really wide offset tire so here's my take.
    Figured I could do a tutorial with the new set of rims and rubber I picked up. First off, I used a set of Ofna MT3 splits for my 3.2 wheels. These wheels will need 17mm adapters to go on our trucks, witch also add a few mm to the width..win/win right. Next, you will need a tire lol, go figure right. I'm using Proline's 2.8 Trenchers again. Side note, I've gone to long without badlands and am now starting to hear some funny jungle music in my head so if I loose it, just roll some badland across my livingroom floor and I should come out of it fairly quickly lol. Anyway, here's the 2 parts we are working with .......did you hear that .....the music. ...argh..

    What we are going to do here is cut the new rim and tire to make them compatible. The wheel has a topical bead but we are mounting tires traxxas style here, beadles baby .. so you'll need a couple hand tools to do the job right.

    You could do this job with a power tool but for the sake of a nice finish, I would urge you to use your hand tools. A power tool can take to much material way to fast leaving the edge pf you wheels looking like crap. You will invest an hour or so of work here and have a fine finish to show so just take your time and let your hands do this one.
    First, I grab my body sheers and cut the outside edge (bead) right off the wheel, both sides. I handle the scissors with the curve in the opposite direction, cut and roll the rim at the same time while keeping the scissors as flat and as close to flush as possible. You don't want any bevel to the outside edge. Just flat.

    After you've cut both edges, you will still have a strip of plastic left on the rim. As seen bellow.

    I used an x-acto knife to take it down to a finished edge. Notice I snapped the blade on an angle, this is so you can run the blade flat up the bead line and shave the excess plastic without the point cutting into the wheels. Trust me, it will make the job easier lol. Take your time with this part cause the outside finished edge will be seen as soon as you joint your tires. Shave a bit at a time if necessary, just be careful not to go deep, just skim the flat and less the edge you left shave right off.

    After you've done this to all 4 wheels, they are ready, time to get the tires prepared.
    The tires are super easy. Its just a matter of following the line with your body scissors. Take your time to cut on the bead line, don't leave any uneven spots or it will show as a wobble after its glued on.

    Cut both sides carefully clean the edges before you call it a done deal and the pair is ready for you to put together. Take your time putting the sets together, stretching the foams without ripping and taking the time to make sure it all sits right will effect the wheel greatly. Get it right and you'll have a smooth spinning wheel without wobbles . Here's how it all turned out after a careful glue job.

    I'm not a hatchet man! I'm a maggot!

  34. #34
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. thedreadedend's Avatar
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    I'll be bolting some losi shocks on today, this truck may not get the full benefit of them because its a light truck but I will through it over some tall snowbanks and over some high jumps and drops to see how they respond. I've got some broken up terrain to power over also, love the way it handles now but I hate the chassis slap from a heavy landing. Lets see what these shocks can do for the overall ride as well as jumping around.
    I'm not a hatchet man! I'm a maggot!

  35. #35
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    wow your truck is going through about as many changes as the one djmedic2008 is doing on another forums its a dually truck called project overkill look for it on youtube its insane

  36. #36
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    shocks are the main thing i struggled with on my MT Rusty.. looking forward to your opinion on these...

  37. #37
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. thedreadedend's Avatar
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    I got some Killa bash time in yesterday, must have burnt through 10 3s-4s packs and it was a blast! One of the biggest changes I noticed is the chassis slap is no more! This was my goal but it wouldn't be worth loosing my fast paced basher driving style. Well, im happy to tell ya that the straight shot across lumpy and rutted terrain didn't suffer any loss either, in fact, this has improved also. I will need to fine tune the rear a bit but it does stay planted, I am very impressed! I spent the day sending my truck off ramps and banks. Anything I could find to send it up. I had the ramp on some blocks so the kicker would shoot straight up with lil forward motion. It comes down with a nice quiet tire slap and a lil body rattle. Even hopping curbs has improved, all motions that would send it nose down are easily handled, with this set up I can use a lighter wt. to help absorb impact without reaching the end of the shocks shaft.
    The big bore sets I have are all in great shape, they handled the trucks that run with in its purpose well. But im not the guy who got a truck to kinda bash around, with in its intended purpose, im the guy that's going to go to far the same day it gets delivered lol. So this upgrade suites my mt well. Here is a pic to show size comparison of losi ten shocks and trx bb

    In the above pic it appears that the losi shock is longer, its not, the bb isn't fully extended. The fact is, from center to center of hollow ball, they are the same length front and rear. Look at the thickness of the losi bore, HUGE lol.

    I used the bottom hollow balls from my bb in the front, the losi hardware was a touch to long to fit between the a arm webbing. On top f/r, I used the mounting screws and one locknut from the losi truck. The bottoms are still stock in the rear. Bolts right up nicer too.


    These shocks look incredible and drive just as awesome, if you need a fix for chassis slap or your truck is a bit heavy and you feel you have reached the end of your shocks ability then I would highly recommend this set. I just don't see a down side at all. I've got 3 3s and 2 4s packs charging... i'll keep putting them to the test today lol. Few more pix for ooows and ahhhs.



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  38. #38
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. thedreadedend's Avatar
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    Iv been picking different parts of my truck to show how or what I did as an upgrade, if you would like to get some details on a particular mod or upgrade or even stock parts question, feel free to ask. I know most of you are very dedicated to the slash as is, sc truck, but if you like to go out and bash too you may consider a second truck.... I know I've had enough changing over for the weekend and back in the weekdays. I've had a p2de, 1/8 p2de, p4de, rusty, merv, sl4sh, sl2sh from traxxas and I gotta tell ya that this truck here, is by far the most beatable and durable so far. I have a sl4sh mt and this mt, I also have a sick massed out merv or (merc) mini e revo castle and I think that these 2 slash trucks are the big keepers. I just don't see myself getting tired of this set up. And after the protrac kit for 4wd,,, man oh man my other truck will be a close match to this too.
    I'm not a hatchet man! I'm a maggot!

  39. #39
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. thedreadedend's Avatar
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    Here's a couple clips showing the shocks ability. This first one is awesome, I'd love to see a slash hit this lip and simply roll out of it like it does!

    I'll get some more up to youtube tonight
    Last edited by thedreadedend; 02-02-2012 at 04:59 PM.
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  40. #40
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. thedreadedend's Avatar
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    I painted up a new body last night, don't much care for it. I thought it would look a bit better but guess I've got another bash body. I've ordered a slipstream and a VW baja bug. I want to do a low sitting revo style body/tire look and I'll be trying a full fender baja mt. Mt tires for thebaja and something like panther komoto tires with a super low profile look for the slipstream body. Here's the chevy I did last night.


    This is my local hobbie shop and his wall of bodies... usually find what I want right here
    Last edited by thedreadedend; 02-06-2012 at 09:09 AM.
    I'm not a hatchet man! I'm a maggot!

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