Dialing In the Handling

[tbonemcniel]

Well, yesterday, I read about half of the Slayden Set Up thread, and set my truck up accordingly. Only differences I made, is running 10k in the rear diff, and 15k up front, and 50wt shock oil in the back. I made these tweaks, because I'm running a MMP/2400kv combo on 3s, instead of the VXL on 2s, which is what Slayden was running.

Seeing as my truck was a regular Slash 4x4, I don't have the center diff or the sway bars either. Fastlane Machine center diff has been ordered, so it'll hold up to the 2400kv on 3s power better than the stock plastic cup diff. Swaybars have also been ordered.

I should have gone one page farther, and found his rough track/hot motor setup as well. Oh well.

I'm running on Pro-Line SC Calibers, and after putting two battery packs through the truck, I thought it was doing sooo much better. And it is, compared to my buddies stock Slash 4x4 with VXL on 3s.


But right afterward, I pulled out my E-Slayer. E-Revo chassis, MMM/2200kv combo on 4s, Slayer Pro 4x4 arms/bumpers/body, center diff, Tekno R/C swaybars, buggy sized Calibers on JConcepts wheels. And my goodness, it smokes my Slash 4x4. As good as I was feeling about getting my Slash closer to being dialed in, all went out the window. My Slayer is just point and shoot, goes where you tell it, will carve a corner out, and handles like it's on rails.

Then I drove the Slash 4x4 again. Here are my issues with it, whenever I peg the throttle in a straight line, it wipes out. The rear end slides out, and I go into a spin.

It seems to have a lot more body roll, I'm sure some swaybars will help with that quite a bit.

Anytime I try to dive into a corner, or do any kind of high speed cornering, it wipes out.


The surface I'm running on, is a medium to pretty rough, hard packed dirt, with a very loose/sandy top layer.

My thoughts are these: Center Diff at around 50-75k oil, the swaybars, decrease rear toe in from 4 deg to around 2-3 deg, decrease rear camber from -3 deg to -2 deg. Decrease rear diff from 10k to around 7k.

Do you more experienced Slashers think that the Center Diff and the Swaybars will make a big enough difference?

[jay janak]

I have 50k in my center diff it help out. Gives a little slip them the power comes in (Its like a power band on a 2 stroke) My thinking is that you get a better launch with 50k however that is just my opinion. I run 5000k in the rear 50k in the center and 7000k in the front this work great for me. Sway bars work very well go to your track and do 3 passes with the sway bars on then unbolt your sway. With the sway bars unbolted the truck will bounce like crazy.

[tbonemcniel]

What electronics are you running and on what voltage. I have a feeling, that my truck would be a lot more controllable with less power, but I def don't want to do that lol.

[jay janak]

I am running a 3750kv 550 can motor with a 7.4 2 cell 50c lipo when the battery gets here. now i am running a 25c 2 cell

[ultran8]

i also put lil rubber grommets on the screws that howd the sway bars. it doesnt let the sway bars dance around and holds them firm like a real car . just my 2 cents

[1toncj7]

I'm with Jay on his recommendations. I run my center diff with 50k and it works really well. Don't change your rear toe in. By decreasing rear toe it make the truck more unstable at high speed straight line runs and rotate more while turning. Try running your rear camber at -1 to -2 degrees too, that should help.

[tbonemcniel]

Thanks for the tips guys. I'm ready to try out the center diff as soon as it arrives from FLM. I'll keep the rear toe in at 4* for now, and experiment with the camber some more.

[SteveC2375]

The center diff makes a big difference and transfers power between the front and rear. I run 50k in my center diff as well. Your toe and camber settings sound about right. You should also be running about 2 degrees camber in the front.

What springs are you running? They could be causing your body rolling problem. I swapped out the stock springs for linear springs from a Rustler.

Just remember to only make one change at a time, then make a test run.

[tbonemcniel]

Yeah, I'm running 2* neg camber up front, and about 1.5 toe out up front.

The center diff made a big difference when I installed it into my E-Slayer.

As far as springs, I'm running stock ultra springs off the Stampede 4x4. They're linear rate, and a little softer feeling than the stock ultra springs for the Slash or the stock Big Bore springs. They are part number 3758X. The rear springs are the white, linear rate, and I thought were E-Maxx springs like Slayden suggested, since I pulled them out of my E-Maxx parts bag, but after looking for a model number, I'm not sure. I can't find any white linear rate springs for the Maxx series. Hmm, this could be part of the issue.

What do y'all think about my diff fluid weights front and rear?

IIRC, I'm running 10k rear and 30k front in my Slayer, but it's using 6-spider d8 1/8 scale diffs, rather than 4-spider Traxxas diffs.

It rained really heave last night, do I'm restricted to running the Summit for the next few days till it dries up outside. I'll keep y'all posted.

[Slash_Basher]

Thanks for the tips guys. I'm ready to try out the center diff as soon as it arrives from FLM. I'll keep the rear toe in at 4* for now, and experiment with the camber some more.

You are going to love the center diff on the track.. It's a night and day difference from the slipper. You say that you ordered from FLM, I had thought that FLM only made the case without the internal components and seals. Did you also order the internal components?

[tbonemcniel]

I have a stock center diff here with me as well. But from what I've read, it has problems holding up to VXL 3s power much less MMP/2400 3s, so I decided to wait to install it till the FLM parts get here.

[SteveC2375]

I just didn't like the progressive springs, so I switched to the Traxxas linear springs. The problem with Traxxas springs is that there isn't really a tension rating system for them. You can also look into the Losi 2" and 2.5" springs, which are rated.

I am running 30/50/10 in my Slash 4x4 and it works well for me.

[tbonemcniel]

I found where I wrote down the diff fluids I used in my Slayer. I had used 10k front, 50k center, and 5k rear. Although like I said, that's using 6 spider 1/8 scale d8 diffs front and rear, not the 4 spider 1/10 scale Traxxas diffs.

[chrisatl]

Just remember to only make one change at a time, then make a test run.

Read this over and over and over and over and over and over and over again. It's simply the only way to know exactly what's working and what is not. ... don't chase your tail.

[CAGE410]

Im running the same system the 2400 on 3s But geared @ 20/52 with big blocks tires.
Black sway bar in the rear and silver in the front with 60w shock oil in the front with semi
soft springs and 50w in the rear with a med hard spring. Diff oil im using 50k in the front
and 100k in the rear. I dont have any issues no pulling to the right or left at high speeds
no turn overs. It handles incrediblely well..
+2 on SteveC2375
Just remember to only make one change at a time, then make a test run.
Good Luck on your journey KiD....