Page 5 of 5 FirstFirst ... 345
Results 161 to 179 of 179
  1. #161
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    461
    Ok i need some part numbers guys? bevel gears and spyder gears for FLM diffs Caster racing doesnt even know FLM uses there diffs and FLM will not respond
    I BLAME ALL THIS ON POPOXX!

  2. #162
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Pittsburgh
    Posts
    150
    Did you ever find the gears you needed?

  3. #163
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    204
    What is all this??
    I'm starting to get this strange feeling, that I should never have ordered those Ultimate Hybrid Bulks from FLM I'm awaiting!

  4. #164
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    461
    Quote Originally Posted by A468BU View Post
    Did you ever find the gears you needed?
    Yes i found them on RCmonster the Slipperential diff gears will work they are twenty dollars a kit. And dont let my bad experience turn you away let just say these diffs are not for beginners!
    I BLAME ALL THIS ON POPOXX!

  5. #165
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Wildman4910's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Cocoa Florida
    Posts
    4,002
    Diff spider gears for the Castor diff's, you need to count the bevel(side) gears tooth count to see which one FLM is supplying with their combo..
    Click for truggy 20 tooth bevel(side)gear

    Click for buggy 18 tooth bevel(side)gear
    Look out for the tree/crunch!

    LiPo? Naw NITRO!!

  6. #166
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    204
    Quote Originally Posted by A468BU View Post
    Ok well I put a Little Video together of assembly of these Hybrid bulks. I am no expert on making how to videos but this should be good enough to help you get them together. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fv7HH1CevwE
    Finally my FLM parts is on its way to me. I just want to be sure about those shims needed.
    You posted this earlier:

    Quote Originally Posted by A468BU View Post
    The Ultimate with they diffs they provide. I had to use a lot of shims though that they didn't provide. So if you plan on building some, make sure to pick up over 20 8mm shims.
    But in your really good video, you're using 13x16x0.2mm shims - should I still use any 8 mm shims?
    And could 13.1x15.8 mm shims be used instead, since my LHS have them available at 0.2 mm and 0.3 mm.

  7. #167
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Pittsburgh
    Posts
    150
    I used the 8mm first time around. They work but what happens is the bear is spaced all the way into the housing. there could be a problem getting the diff cups on. And there is no way you could use the stock axles. I would using the larger diameter shims i used in the video. The shims you said you could get I think would work but not 100% positive on that.

  8. #168
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Northern Europe
    Posts
    205
    It's been finished for a while but here are some more pics:






  9. #169
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Nova Scotia ,Canada
    Posts
    1,246
    Dang that's purty. But where are the electrics?

  10. #170
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Northern Europe
    Posts
    205
    Never ran - sold it. Couldn't get myself to scratch it after building. Was a great project though.

  11. #171
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    204
    I just recieved my order of E-Maxx FLM parts - 10900 chassis, Shock Towers and Ultimate Hybrid Bulks.
    Unfortunately the diff shafts (stubs) seems to be of the short kind. There's no way stock shafts could be used. Now what?

  12. #172
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Northern Europe
    Posts
    205
    From the product picture you have both drive cups and output shafts too choose from. You can build the diffs any way you like:


  13. #173
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    204
    Quote Originally Posted by gumleguf View Post
    From the product picture you have both drive cups and output shafts too choose from. You can build the diffs any way you like:

    Yep - that's what I got.
    Problem is I wanted to use the stock Traxxas plastic diff hafts.
    So I changed the already fitted diff drivecups with the provided "stub" drivshafts - but allthoug FLM had promised that new shipments would include a new "longer" diff stub shaft - they didn't. The one that I got are to short to use with the stock driveshafts.
    I've contacted FLM, but no answer from them yet.

    Any other solution someone could inform me about?

    I've looked at the Traxxas CVD's - but how could they be used? Don't they connect to the "stub" like the plastic diff shafts

    Also - what is used for body posts? Stock body posts fit fine on the FLM towers don't - but then the E-Maxx 3908 body holes don't align with the body posts.
    Last edited by petraeus; 04-14-2012 at 09:26 AM.

  14. #174
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    239
    the stock shafts expand pretty far, at least 12-15mm in the middle under the blue seal. You should be able to stretch them to fit. Unless you mean the flm stub shafts are to short to screw the traxxas shaft onto it because the bulkhead is too thick. In which case you better call them. Emails don't always do it, #'s on their page. Body posts rarely fit exactly into the stock body holes once you change the towers. New body holes

  15. #175
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    204
    FLM answered rigth away and are sending longer stub shaft (unless that's what I've already got)
    With a little sanding the stock shafts just fit.
    Body posts - I've solved it. I simply had turned the body post in the wrong direction - thought direction didn't matter, it did. It's a perfect fit now.
    Last edited by petraeus; 04-18-2012 at 06:16 AM.

  16. #176
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    271
    How have people gone with the LCG chasis? I love the idea but they look like they'll leave the lipos really exposed, like a lipo fire waiting to happen if they get punctured in a hit or roll over, where with the non LCG FLM chasis they would stand a better chance....

  17. #177
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Wildman4910's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Cocoa Florida
    Posts
    4,002
    Quote Originally Posted by Suteki View Post
    How have people gone with the LCG chassis? I love the idea but they look like they'll leave the lipo's really exposed, like a lipo fire waiting to happen if they get punctured in a hit or roll over, where with the non LCG FLM chassis they would stand a better chance....
    So put them in a RC Monster like battery box to protect them.
    Look out for the tree/crunch!

    LiPo? Naw NITRO!!

  18. #178
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Posts
    2
    Quote Originally Posted by Razmo View Post

    Also, you'll need to purchase an additonal center drive shaft coupler to use the Traxxas center drive shafts, unless of course FLM also all sends us a coupler per bulk..



    Raz
    Hi please Can someone point me where can I find the coupler You re talking about, I m using mip central cvd And it doesn t fit at all
    Tank You

  19. #179
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Illinois
    Posts
    121
    http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...+shaft+coupler

    If I recall correctly, you would need two of these if you want to use the stock center drive shafts, that is if your using both a front and rear bulk, but they look to be out of stock. If you're only using one bulk, you would only need one coupler.

    Raz

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •