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  1. #81
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    68 65 and I think 62 tooth spur. Pinion is on the motor.

  2. #82
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    Yeah im sorry i changed it to 68 spur and 23 pinion and its doing alot better. Now i need to figure out why its so uncontrollable i took all the spacers out of the shocks and it didnt change i need to buy some diff locking fluid maybe the fluid is to thick i installed 50,000 weight maybe go to a 30,000 or 20,000 ive tried adjusting the slipper and toed in the rear tires a little bit im lost lol
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  3. #83
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    Are you running 4s or 6s ?

  4. #84
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    Going to a smaller spur is the same as going with a bigger pinion right?

  5. #85
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    A higher tooth count on your pinion and a lower tooth count on spur gear for speed.

  6. #86
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    But say you are geared 22/68 now. Could you gear 20/65 and be close to the same ratio?

  7. #87
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    See that i dont know because these are buggy diffs i think the ratio is 3.31:1 and stock is 2.85:1 so i dont know how to get back to stock gearing im gonna run it harder tomorrow and ill post some temps i have no way to calculate speed maybe ill chase it with my buick lol dont laugh its been done! Im running 4cell and i was curious how you came up with that math A468BU?
    Last edited by MAYHEM6969; 03-09-2012 at 09:41 PM.
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  8. #88
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    Here is a calculator, just plug in your numbers.
    Rollout Ratio Calculator

    Just put in the numbers for a bone stock BL maxx to get the Rollout Ratio the change to your new diff ratio & change the spur/pinion numbers till the RR gets close.
    Look out for the tree/crunch!

    LiPo? Naw NITRO!!

  9. #89
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    Hi
    Since I'm building this too - would you need to buy FLM hingepins when using the FLM chassis and Ultimate Bulks.

    http://www.fastlanemachine.net/prodd...LM14600&cat=15

    http://www.fastlanemachine.net/prodd...LM14000&cat=15

    http://www.fastlanemachine.net/prodd...LM14500&cat=15

    I'm already having RPM A-arms and True Track.
    Last edited by petraeus; 03-10-2012 at 06:20 AM.

  10. #90
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    No you won't need the flm hinge pins. You should be fine with the ones that came with the Ultimate bulks. Have you checked out lunsford pins?

  11. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by bentrocker View Post
    No you won't need the flm hinge pins. You should be fine with the ones that came with the Ultimate bulks. Have you checked out lunsford pins?
    So the Ultimate Bulks are delivered with all hinge pins needed? Surely I'm not using stockers.
    I didn't check Lunsford pins. I'm getting all the advice for this build as possible. Are they better?

  12. #92
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    I used the Ejector Pins. From what I have read they seem to be the best.

  13. #93
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    Where did you get the ejector pins from? I would like to try those but I have been having trouble finding some that I can get shipped at a deccent price.

  14. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by petraeus View Post
    So the Ultimate Bulks are delivered with all hinge pins needed? Surely I'm not using stockers.
    I didn't check Lunsford pins. I'm getting all the advice for this build as possible. Are they better?
    I am not sure if the ultimate bulks come with pins. The flm ones I bought did. They didn't last long though, that is why I went with lunsford.

  15. #95
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    Quote Originally Posted by bentrocker View Post
    I am not sure if the ultimate bulks come with pins. The flm ones I bought did. They didn't last long though, that is why I went with lunsford.
    The ultimate diffs only come with the lower pins so you will need the RPM pins for the uppers.
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  16. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by bentrocker View Post
    Where did you get the ejector pins from? I would like to try those but I have been having trouble finding some that I can get shipped at a deccent price.
    I bought 2 14" pins and it was just enough, I wish I had bought more. They are not that expensive either. I think I paid $17 shipped. The shipping was just as much as the pins though. I have the receipt at home, so I will post it later

  17. #97
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    Quote Originally Posted by A468BU View Post
    I bought 2 14" pins and it was just enough, I wish I had bought more. They are not that expensive either. I think I paid $17 shipped. The shipping was just as much as the pins though. I have the receipt at home, so I will post it later
    How are you going to install them ?

  18. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by A468BU View Post
    I used the Ejector Pins. From what I have read they seem to be the best.
    Ok we need pics or part numbers on this topic i looked up ejector pins and it said something about computer parts or something is this not a RC application or something else we are using for RC applications?
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  19. #99
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    Quote Originally Posted by Popoxx View Post
    How are you going to install them ?
    They are already installed. I cut them to size with a dremel. and put a notch in them and used the set screws with the hybrid bulks

  20. #100
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    Quote Originally Posted by A468BU View Post
    They are already installed. I cut them to size with a dremel. and put a notch in them and used the set screws with the hybrid bulks
    I see the setscrew on the top but not the bottom?
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  21. #101
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    Quote Originally Posted by A468BU View Post
    They are already installed. I cut them to size with a dremel. and put a notch in them and used the set screws with the hybrid bulks
    Thats how I was planning on mounting them. That is a nice feature with the flm bulks.

  22. #102
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    Quote Originally Posted by MAYHEM6969 View Post
    I see the setscrew on the top but not the bottom?
    The set screw for the bottom pin is under the shidplate.

  23. #103
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    Gotcha ill have to check my skidplate is a shidplate something new! do you have a part number or picture And ive come to the conclusion that my diff fluid is to thick and transferring all the power to the rear causing my spin out issue and i ran it hard today and the motor was 110 degrees so far soo good on gearing!
    Last edited by MAYHEM6969; 03-10-2012 at 05:10 PM.
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  24. #104
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    Mayhem,

    50wt diff oil is much too thick for those diffs. Caster Racing suggests between 2k and 10k wt. I intend to use 5k front, 10k rear for starters.. Also, it's suggested to use the blue gasket as it is what they call a "bulging gasket" to prevent leaks..

    Raz

  25. #105
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    Regarding Hinge Pins.. The FLM pins aren't strong enough, been their, done that.. I bought a set of Lunsford Titaniums, I'm hoping they are strong enough...

    Raz

  26. #106
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    Quote Originally Posted by A468BU View Post
    I bought 2 14" pins and it was just enough, I wish I had bought more. They are not that expensive either. I think I paid $17 shipped. The shipping was just as much as the pins though. I have the receipt at home, so I will post it later
    Hey man, same here. If you can post where to purchase a set of Ejector Pins, it would be mucho appreciated..

    Raz

  27. #107
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    I got them from Plastixs Part# PE3-125L14 Here at the bottom of the page

    edit fixed link to correct pins
    Last edited by A468BU; 03-11-2012 at 06:19 PM. Reason: fixed link

  28. #108
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    ^^ Correct link is this one I guess
    If not, choose Through-Hardened Straight Ejector Pins rather than Straight Ejector Pins, they are sturdier.

  29. #109
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    Opps thanks Popoxx, your link is correct. I had trouble finding them on the site and missed that the ones I posted were the PE1 and not the PE3 part #

  30. #110
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    Quote Originally Posted by A468BU View Post
    I got them from Plastixs Part# PE3-125L14 Here at the bottom of the page
    Nice! Thanks. Do you know what the Ejectors are made of? Could they be stronger than Titanium?

    Raz

  31. #111
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    I'm seeing now, hardened steel... Think FLM is hardened steel as well.. Mine bent the very first day... I suppose the hardening process maybe somewhat of an art..??

    Nick

  32. #112
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    Material: 52100 Hardened Steel, 58-62 HRC
    Head Hardness: HRC 45+/-5
    Shaft Hardness: HRC 60+/-2 Through Hardened

    I don't know what does it mean but as I tested both (Lunsford and Plastixs) I can tell you ejector pins are better by far

  33. #113
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    Quote Originally Posted by Popoxx View Post
    Material: 52100 Hardened Steel, 58-62 HRC
    Head Hardness: HRC 45+/-5
    Shaft Hardness: HRC 60+/-2 Through Hardened

    I don't know what does it mean but as I tested both (Lunsford and Plastixs) I can tell you ejector pins are better by far
    Popoxx, I haven't had a chance to test the Lunsford Pins, but have heard they do bend.. Are you saying you've tested the Lunsford against the Ejector's and found the Ejectors to be stronger?

    Thanks,
    Raz

  34. #114
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    That's it.

  35. #115
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    Here is the thing with ejector pins and what makes them so nice. They break instead of bend so that you can get them out! lol I don't think I've heard of them breaking though. But it can be done. The FLM hinge pins that I have are not hardened. I use UE titanium but I wish I had the pins to try alot of the guys over on the UE forum run the E-pins instead of the UE stuff.
    15" WB HCR Mutant-Maxx Castle UE FLM 3906

  36. #116
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    Ive tried them all lundsford traxxas FLM these ejector pins are worth a shot i like how the break and dont bend!
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  37. #117
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    I am sure I am too late chimming in but there was a gearing question earlier...

    http://traxxas.com/sites/default/fil...m_091112_0.pdf

    yes, if you go to a smaller pinion, its the same as using a bigger spur...more torque less topend. the opposite will yield opposite results, obviously.

    easy way to calculate gear ratio is take the "Big gear" and divide that by the "small gear"
    i.e. 68/22=3.09 - - - - -65/21=3.10. (multiply that by 5.22 will give you the final drive ratio.) This is beneficial when you need to move the motor position for various reasons.

    the lower the ratio, the faster it goes. the higher the ratio, the more torque it has.

    lower ratio will give you more motor heat...so adjust accordingly.

    I hope I am not too late and this actually benefits someone...I try to do my part.

  38. #118
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    Quote Originally Posted by Popoxx View Post
    ^^ Correct link is this one I guess
    If not, choose Through-Hardened Straight Ejector Pins rather than Straight Ejector Pins, they are sturdier.
    Hi
    Do you know which thickness is the correct?
    And the link you provided, is already the Through-Hardened Straight Ejector Pins - right?

    Quote Originally Posted by A468BU View Post
    I got them from Plastixs Part# PE3-125L14 Here at the bottom of the page

    edit fixed link to correct pins
    Sorry - it was off course mentioned right here - dooh
    Last edited by petraeus; 03-12-2012 at 01:42 AM.

  39. #119
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    Quote Originally Posted by Razmo View Post
    Mayhem,

    50wt diff oil is much too thick for those diffs. Caster Racing suggests between 2k and 10k wt. I intend to use 5k front, 10k rear for starters.. Also, it's suggested to use the blue gasket as it is what they call a "bulging gasket" to prevent leaks..

    Raz
    Surely 30k/50k in a 1/8 scale diff would be way to thick. The truck would have a hard time turning.
    Traxxas diffs uses only 2 spiders, and that's the reason stock E-Maxx uses 30K front and I guess maybe only greased rear? My stock rear diff is definitely lighter, compared to front diff.

    And I'm wondering why you choose thicker oil in rear diff than front diff. It would be pushing the car, making it less controllable.

    3K rear and 7K front would seem to be a common setup, although we're not completely talking truggy race-setup here. Personally r5K-f10k seems to work fine in a MT with 1/8 scale diffs and slipperclutch. To add control and prevent wheelies somehow, install the Traxxas CD and choose 500k oil if you still like little more 4WD off-road action.

    Always lighter rear diff oil than front:
    http://www.myrcbox.com/articles/tech...gy-and-truggy/
    Last edited by petraeus; 03-12-2012 at 01:29 AM.

  40. #120
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    [QUOTE=petraeus;5094071]Hi
    Do you know which thickness is the correct?


    They are using 1/8 ejector pins.

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