I put bungie chords from underneeth the bumper around the bulk and back to pull it down and still have give
I put bungie chords from underneeth the bumper around the bulk and back to pull it down and still have give
"American Muscle beats import any day of the week"
So work and the lack of funds as well as trying to track down an annoying clicking in my drive train has slowed this little budget project down some. But I've been able to get it going again. Here's what I've done lately.
I've got the RPM shock towers and front A-arms installed.
I also picked up a set of RPM 3 piece skid plates:
When I went to the 17mm hex adapters by Traxxas, I found like many others, there is some play or "slop" in them. So I've tried a few things to tighten up the adapter that failed. I see that there are many, many threads on how to fix the slop but I'm not inclined to spend a bunch of money, as this is a budget build. Plus I didn't want to do any altering to the adapters or the axle stubs. So I got this idea from Popoxx, I had some nylon washers laying around from a body saver idea so I used them between the adapters and the axle carriers. It take up about 50% of the slop.
One thing that I started to notice is that the stock wheel axle were rubbing against the shocks and getting scratched up. So since I got the RPM A-arms I thought about putting a little 3mm washer between the A-arm and the lower shock mount. I gives it just a bit of clearance to keep the shock spring off the axle. This will only work with the RPM A-arm though (I think) as the stock A-arm has a channel that the shock mount is placed into.
This rubbing won't be an issue much longer as I've order a set of Traxxas CVD's. More to follow on that install.
As far as the clicking and creaking noises go... I've been able to nail down that the creaking is from the yokes on the plastic drive shafts and the RPM A-arms being a tight fit. I was able to shave down the A-arm some to make it a better fit and well as far as the yokes... Getting replaced by the CVD. The clicking seems to be coming from the diff as if the gears are jumping. I've inspected them again and again and there is no signs of damage. I've also tried to shim them but they are too tight. Shimming only jams them up. I was discussing this with my brother. He has built a few 1:1 4x4's in his life. He said that in a locked or "Closed" diff it is not uncommon to get that clicking from the spider gears. He said it's not what you want but it's better than them completely jamming up and chipping or breaking teeth on the gears.
So whats next... Well like I said earlier, I just ordered a set Traxxas 5451R and also orders some extended drive cups. Along with that order I have the RPM True Track kit for the back end.
Future conversions will be a set of RPM axle carriers for the front. I'm also going to get the 5151R front and rear CVD. and I think I'm going to get a set of the the Team Blue Star shocks. I've seen mixed reviews about them and I almost said no to them, but I seen a post by a member (I tried to go back and find the post so I could give credit where it's due) that said he had leaking issues like everyone complains about but all that needed to be done was to tighten the cap. He further said that the rebuild kit for the Traxxas Ultra shock was a perfect fit. So that has got me jazzed about ordering them.
And then to top it all off I'm going to custom paint a Raptor body.
After that I'm sure I'll have to start looking at a motor and ESC upgrade.
Nice maxx ! You chose excellent upgrades I hope the nylon washers you put on the stub axle won't melt !
Don't worry about the rubbing, stock driveshafts are sturdy.
A rollcage would be perfect to strengthen your E-Maxx (alu upgrades are $$$...).
I've thought about a roll cage, maybe when I get the new body for it.
6mm shims or 6mm small/thin washer will work too in place of the nylon washer.
Look out for the tree/crunch!
LiPo? Naw NITRO!!
Just ordered my Team Blue Star shocks
And my RPM True Track kit, Traxxas axle CVD's with extended drive cups should be in this week.
Too bad I have to work this weekend
Looky at what just came in today...
Wheel CVD's, RPM True Track and I got some extended drive cups just in case because I've read that some folks are saying the CVD's are a tad short.
Time to get busy!
Gotta love it when the UPS man brings goodies to your door!
Look out for the tree/crunch!
LiPo? Naw NITRO!!
So the last 3 orders have been that way. It's working out well. There are something's that he can't order but I've only found one item so far.
Sounds like a good LHS, wish I had one like that around here.
The closest LHS to me almost never has what I'm lookin for or are out of it when I need it.
Look out for the tree/crunch!
LiPo? Naw NITRO!!
Baldy mostly posts on the pede forum but he is the one that loves his team blue star shocks and was the one to say that you can rebuild it with the traxxas set and that the leak is caused by the cap. He convinced me to order them for my pede and i would for my emaxx but it has brand new big bores traxxas that came with the truck when i bought it.
Because this is a budget project and I enjoy trying different ideas, there is another thread that has a discussion about bulkheads and other things to use for hinge pins (http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...lkhead-problem). HighDollarRustler posted about using pole barn nails really intrigued me. So last week I was at the hardware store for some stuff around the house and I picked up a 1LB box of 16d 3 1/2" bright finish nails. There has got to be in the neighborhood of 80 nails in this box.
They can be easily cut down to size. But how do you keep them from backing out was my issue. I have some extra e-clips so I thought I'd try to cut a groove with my Dremel... horrible results, to uncontrollable. Then I tried putting the nail in my vise and using my small hacksaw to cut a groove, using the surface of the vise as a guide to control the blade. That worked ok but still very sloppy.
Then A468BU posted about using the chuck of a drill to spin the nail and cut a groove. I that was a great idea, so I went back out to the garage and pulled out my trusty Dewalt drill.
I started by putting the nail in place and marking the nail at the bulk head where the e-clip needed to be with a permanent marker. Sorry I didn't take any pictures of this.
Then I put the nail into the drill chuck, pointed end first as that will be your scrap end that will be cut later. I tighten up the chuck to a point where my ink mark was just outside the face of the chuck. Sorry, didn't take any pictures of this either.
At first I used my cutting wheel from my Dremel and held it with pliers and spun the drill. It didn't cut hardly at all doing this method. I guess you could use a thin hacksaw blade for this but I opted to but my cutting wheel back on the Demel instead. I can't remember if the drill was turning forward or reverse but I set it to turn the opposite direction that my Demel spins.
As I ran the drill I powered up the Demel and place the wheel on the nail at the face of the drill chuck using it as a guide. After a bit of cutting and grinding I tested to see if the e-clips fit. At this point I had to play a little, it not an exact science, I just cut until it looked right. Some nails I cut to deep, some I had to re-chuck and cut some more.
After the groove was cut and an e-clip would fit I snipped the nail with my bolt cutters as close to the groove as I was comfortable doing. After that I ground the cut end of the nail down to about a 1/16th of an inch from the e-clip groove.
Now, I don't know if the nails are any stronger than the stock pins. And I'm certain they are not as strong as Titanium ones. With that being said, this may be a big failure. The nails feel as strong, if not stronger than the stock pins. My problem with the stock pis is that they snap on me. I have had only one to bend, the rest have just snapped. So even if these nails bend and I have to replace them, I have about 70-80 more to use up at a cost of $4.00.
Here is what I started with. Stock pins on the left, nails on the right.
Grooved, cut and ground to length
Installed and e-clipped
Nice work, but knowing how easily the nails will bend (been there done that) I just hate to see all the work you put into the pins go down the drain. If and when you need to replace a bent nail an easy to acquire and relatively cheap alternative to the (non-hardened) nails you are using is a 1/8 inch drill bit shank. You can get the long shank 1/8th inch drill bits at most hardware stores.
The bits after cutting the twist off the end will give you approx 10 Ĺ inches of hardened steel shank to work with, 2 bits are needed for a full set of hinge pins if you cut them strategically @ about $6.00 per bit. The drill shanks work well and hold up better then the Ti pins and just as well as the ejector pins and are more easily acquired then the ejector pins.
Another alternative is 1/8th inch music wire you can get at most LHS. It is about the same as the Ti pins as far as strength.
No slipper/tall gearing/power = broken parts.
Thanks for the advise Snook, I'll keep those ideas in mind.
i'm running lunsford pins and they work great and went in with barely any effort.
I blame it all on speedpede09
I love the True Track, had it on my T-Maxx and it is strong. Now I moved it to my E-Maxx and it rides so well
1/10 Slash 4X4 VXL
1/16 E-Revo VXL
This project has slowed down a little. I've finished putting on some parts and currently waiting some more. When I then altogether I post up some pictures. Should be in the next week.
In the mean time, here is a little teaser of the next step in this project...
I had to move my wheel weights on the rear because they rubbed the True Track I just put in. So I thought I'd clean up the front one and re-balance them. That's when I noticed a crack in the front wheel. I can assume that it happened when I plowed the truck into a rail post and took out a bulkhead. So I guess it's time to bump up my plans for new tires for the Maxx. I have some wheels that HPI sent me as a warranty replacement for the black chroming that is chipping off the wheels I have my Mashers glued to. The only problem is that they sent me two sets of Matte Chrome rather than Black Chrome!
No problem, with a oven cleaner and an old tooth brush I can go from this:
Then I'll add them to some of this and some hot water:
Care to make any guesses to what tires I'm going to put on those 3.2 Warlocks??
RPM axle carriers and the Team Blue Star shocks came today.
Unfortunitly the RPM Two Stage pistons and the Traxxas center CVDs are back ordered.
I wanted to drop in the two stage pistons (TSP) and go test the shocks out this weekend. It's been a few weeks since I had the Maxx out so I might just put on what I got and go bash. Then when I get the TSPs in I'll change up the oil too. I picked up some 70wt today. I've been running 50wt with one hole pistons on my Ultras and I've been happy with that set up but I thought I'd try out some thinker stuff.
I'll get some pics posted up tomorrow.
I was able to get some work done this morning on my Maxx. I got a lot of pictures so I think Iíll separate this update into a few different posts.
Iíll start with the Traxxas 5451R axle CVDs.
Some are a fan and some seem to hate them. I really like the way they look but here are a few of my reasons for upgrading to them.
1. I found that my yokes on the stock plastic axle shafts were squeaking and flexing under a load. I thought it was only a matter of time before they were going to give out. Maybe not with stock brushed motors powered by NiHM but at some point I plan to upgrade the motors and batteries.
2. I keep ripping up the blue rubber accordion boots. I know they are not completely necessary for the function of the shaft, but when they get torn, dirt and water in introduced between the parts and sometimes would jam them from sliding in and out. Some of you are going to say that the CVD has two rubber boots that can get torn. Wile this is true, I believe itís less likely to happen as the boots on the VCD are far inward and far outward and somewhat protected by the bulkhead and axle carrier.
3. Something like a rock must have got wedged between the shaft and the A-arm and not only ripped another boot but also started grinding away at the splines on the shaft.
I read several post on different forums that some guys were having trouble with the shaft popping out of the drive cup and the fix was an extended drive cup. I heeded the advice of others more experienced than I am and went ahead and installed the extended drive cup (Traxxas # 5153R). They were only around $8 a set so I figured better safe than sorry. The extended cups are about an 1/8Ē longer than the cups that come with the kit.
One thing that was tricky for some reason was getting the axle to seat all the way into the carrier. It took a little wiggling and coxing to get some of them to install completely. But all in all itís a very easy kit to put on.
Cups that come with the kit:
Traxxas # 5153R extended drive cups (2 to a package):
While I was tinkering this morning I also dyed my wheels. Check out a few posts up, these started as matte chrome.
While I had the truck down I did a little cleaning on it. I found just this nasty mix of dirt, WD-40 and god knows what up under my ESC. So I had a thought. I have some spare nylon washers so why not make a spacer between the ESC and the chassis. It should end gunk getting trapped under there and make it easier to clean. Plus It can't hurt with heat issues right.
Now for the RPM True Track and axle carrier.
For starters, thus far Iím a huge fan of RPM stuff. My Maxx is rapidly turning into a RPM build!
As with my RPM A-arms that I have on the front, I had to take a razor blade to the True Track in order to get them to fit the bulkheads and pivot freely. One thing to be aware of is that according to RPM some 3.2 wheel will not fit over the True Track. My HPI Warlocks fit fine, I had to re-do my balance weights because they rubbed the bottom portion of the True Track carrier. The only thing you have to re-use from your carrier is one pivot ball, rubber boot and boot clip. The kit comes with all that is needed to install, well almost everything, you also have to use the existing hinge pins.
Same goes for the front axle carriers, just re-use your pivot balls, boot and clip and your set. These carriers are beefy, I hope they donít disappoint!
All RPM carriers come with oversized bearings. They look and feel like the stock ones from Traxxas, just larger. Iíve read that some say they are cheap and donít last long. Iíll run these until they are trashed and then start replacing all my bearings with some good sealed ones.
One word of caution if you are planning on getting either of these kits. Read and follow the directions. One part tells you how to turn the pivot ball nut counter clockwise until you feel the threads drop and mesh. DO THIS!!! If you donít have the threads meshed right you WILL cross thread the nut!! This is one flaw with the kit. They make the tolerancesí so tight in order to keep the nut locked into the carrier that there is a real easy chance to cross the threads.
After I finished putting it all back together I ran the Maxx up and down my alley some. It seems to control real well. I thinks it will be worth it. I'm not sure if it's from the stock axle shafts or the stock carriers or the stock bearings that caused some slop. But going with the RPM carriers and the CVDs the play in the wheels has been reduced.
Rear True Track:
My new shocksÖ Team Blue Star.
There are so many threads out there that bash these shocks. So why did I go with them?? Because there are some threads/posts that also say if you tighten them up they wonít leak. One guy posted that the Ultra Shock guts fit perfectly in the TBS shocks. Plus this is a budget build, as much as I would love to drop some big money on Ofna or UE shocks I couldnít. I got all 8 of these shipped to my door for $60.
My first impressions out of the package were good. These shocks are light; I thought for aluminum shocks they would have been heavier. Tolerancesí are good. I thought that maybe the adjustment ring would bind on the body threads but itís clean and smooth. The spring is stiffer than the stock red springs. I donít have anything to measure them with other than just compressing them between my figures. I think they are close to the stiffness of the white progressive springs from Traxxas. TBSís website says they are progressive, Iím not sure. The length of them is almost identical to the stock Ultras and the top and bottom screw holes are a perfect match for the stock screws. Shafts are TiN coated so Iím hoping It will be a while before I bend them.
Compared next to my Ultraís:
They feel as if a lot of air was left in them from the factory. Itís not a rough feel, just spotty. But this is fine as I plan to put in thicker oil soon.
One complaint is that they leak from the word go. Well I can see what people are saying. At the base of the shock body there is a seal but itís just held in by a clip. There is nothing to compress it against the shaft. I worked one of the shocks in my hand a few time and sure enough, there was some oil on the outer side of the seal. I donít know if I would classify this as a ďleakĒ per say. To me a leak is a drip or a formed drop. This seemed more like some of the oil stayed on the shaft and then wiped off when the shaft was compressed again. I plan on rebuilding these with the nearly new seals from my Ultraís maybe those seals will be tighter.
I donít know what weight oil is installed in them but itís very thin. And I think they either have two-hole pistons installed or itís one big hole because with the stiff springs adjusted tight it makes for a bouncy ride! So yeah, Iím glad I got some 50 and 70 weight oil. And Iíll be continuing to use one-hole pistons. I was very surprised that with all 8 shocks installed that the truck bottomed out from a knee-high drop! Even at a forward motion drop of about 8Ē it slapped the skid plates!! Rest assured when my RPM 2 stage pistons come in Iíll get these shocks tuned right.
The ride height is good since you can crank down on the springs. It seemed to handle turns just fine. I noticed that the rear end didnít sag or droop as bad when I hit the throttle. They seem to re-bound well; they are just bouncy with the thin oil.
So here is Midnight Maxx so far:
Iím going to take it out in the morning and see how it feels. Iíll report back later.
Took old Midnight out for a little stroll this morning. Nothing crazy, I just wanted to get a feel for how the new parts work. The True Track seemed to help with the control. Before I was tweaking a lot with the steering trim until I found a relative sweet spot. With the TT I ran the truck on a straight paved surface a couple of times to set the trim and didn't have to touch it again. I played around some on loose dirt. I wanted to see how "locked in" the kit would keep everything plus I was wondering how the diff would transfer the energy. From a dead stop I hit the throttle and the rear-end kicked to the right (as from behind it or to the passenger side). I did it again with the same result. I went up the trail a little bit and from a dead stop I hit it again. This time the rear-end kicked out to the left! So maybe the dirt was not as loose in on spot and the tires hooked up differently.
With the shocks, it handled turns fine and I like how they rebound quick. With my stock Ultra's filled with 50wt oil and one hole piston the rear-end would sag and stay that way when I was on the throttle. But these shocks keep the rear-end up. As noted above, they are bouncy straight out of the bag and I did slap the skid plates on small jumps. For sure some think oil and maybe some different pistons are in order. I can't decide if I should them on 50wt or the 70wt I just picked up. Hopefully the two stage pistons I ordered will be in this week so I can tweak the shock up some for next weekend.
Oh, none of my home made hinge pins are bent and I didn't loose any e-clips, but it was a light run, no serious jumps or hard landings.
All in all I'm happy with this project so far.
Would love to see more pics and maybe even a video if possible? Thanks!
When it breaks......... Time to......... Upgrade!
Some of the appearance mods (painting & dyeing)
Few during and post running
Functional Mods (splash/debris guard, heat vent, shocks)
Photos after I've put it back together
Only two videos that I've done
hi there if you dont mind me asking how did you go about building those shields......... they look very well built and fitted to the truck..
If you try it, keep in mind to use a semi rigid plastic, something that will flex some. I've seen some use old milk jugs. My first attempt at this I used plexiglass and when I had a hard landing I broke my shock tower and shattered the plexiglass.
Alright well thanks ill give it a try and let you know ...........I will be posting a new thread soon showing my "iron truck" i went with metal upgrades instead but its all one choice.
So, I waited until my RPM 2 stage pistons came in to swap out the light 30ish wt oil with some heavy 70wt. They pistons arrived yesterday so this morning I started tinkering away. Unfortunately I won't be using them on these shocks, I'll be taking the unopened package back to the LHS for a refund or store credit.
Here's the reason why... The RPM pistons are made for the Ultra shocks. Ultra shock bodies are just a fraction of a millimeter larger than the TBS so for starters the outside of the RPM pistons would have to be sanded down so they would fit into the body. That wasn't the issue, that part was simple. I case you don't know how the RPM 2 stage pistons work, in a nut shell there is a lower stationary piston and an upper floating piston. So on the compression stroke the two pistons are pushed together and only allow a small amount of oil to pass through. But on the rebound stroke the oil pulls apart the two pistons, the upper one "floats" up around the top e-clip. On this rebound stroke the amount of holes are doubled allowing more oil to pass thus letting the piston fully expand faster than a normal piston. So here is where the next issue comes in. The floating piston has a recessed center that allows it to rise up and over the top e-clip, that works well on the Ultra shock with the thinner shaft. But on the TiN coated shafts the e-clip is stretched out a bit more, thus not letting the floating piston to properly rise up. It was tedious to try to grind down 8 tiny e-clips so the piston would float like it as designed to. But the third and final issue that made me give up is the thickness of both RPM pistons together. The grooves for the e-clip on the TBS shafts are not as far apart as they are on the Ultra shaft. Which means that there was not enough room once the top and bottom e-clip were in place to even allow the pistons to separate. I tried to sand down the face of the pistons but could not get it right.
I'm not saying it can't be done, I just was loosing patients with it.
So I scrapped that idea and just went with 1 hole pistons and 70wt oil.
I also trimmed up some blue balloons to act as a dirt sweeps to keep the shafts clean, same thing I did with the Ultra shocks.
I'm working up some video to show how well (or bad) the 70wt with 1 hole pistons work dampening. I did different height drop tests.
Here are some more pics with the blue rubber sweeps on.
As shown in this photo, I picked up some lock nuts and put them on the end of the lower shock screw. Someone recommended it one time so I thought it could hurt to have a little added protection in keeping the shocks tight.
Ok, so I got the video edited and posted up on youtube.
It's not the most scientific but I did try to document what height I was dropping the Maxx at.
Totally RTR E-Maxx with both batteries in the tray (somewhere around 10 pounds i believe). Team Blue Star shocks with 70wt oil and 1 hole pistons. The spring collar was turned about 1/2 down the body on all 8 shocks.
You can see in the video that the dampening and rebound was ok. at the 14 inch mark you can see that the suspension starts bounce. I don't think at 14 inches that the suspension was bottoming out, it was close but I don't think it did, I didn't hear the obvious sound of plastic smacking concrete. It's more noticeable from a 20 + inch drop, although I don't know how much of that bounce is due to the chassis slapping the concrete.
The second part of the video is just some fun playing trying out the new shocks. It's not as bouncy as I thought.
And yes, I know the video quality is crappy... I'll post up some sweet HD video if you guys will fund the Hero 2 GoPro Outdoors kit Just say'in
Looks good to me, remember too that when jumping your truck the slaps to the skids aren't static like it is when dripping it straight down.
Looks like a cool bashing spot!
Look out for the tree/crunch!
LiPo? Naw NITRO!!
Peaceful vid and nice bashing spot ! Your shocks seems great, if after several sessions they don't leak and shafts don't twist you could be satisfied with your purchase
So my stock twin 550 have just about given up, or as PowerToTheMaxx put it; my motors now qualified as "spinning toasters of death".
They are putting off a strong electrical burning smell when I run them. So... I've decided to go with the Dewalt mod. I just ordered the motor and pinion for $34
I've got a question though for the guys that have ran the Dewalt motor for a while; Approximately how many runs will I get out of the brushes if the average run time is 1 hour?
I've had a 18volt Dewalt kit for over ten years now and only had the brushes replaced once. But I'm not running my drill for 40-60 minutes constant once a week either.
If anyone has a guestimate or knows who I should ask let me know.
Came home from work yesterday to find this waiting in a box next to my door.
Brand new Dewalt 14.4 volt motor and a 22T 32P 5mm bore pinion
This thing is a monster!! It dwarfs the twin 550's
This mod is going to be fun! Now I got to get my single motor mount and cover to come in.
Today I'm going to go get some good high temp paint to protect that steel cover.
Along with the motor mount and cover I scored 2 new 2075 servos. They aren't as strong as I wanted to go but at $18 each for a new 2075 I couldn't turn that down.
I like it M n M! That mod is definitely on my list...
I got a little work done today on the Dewalt motor.
I got the factory pressed/glued pinion off. I used my Dremel cutting wheel. I cut in the low part between two cogs on the opposite side. I took care not to cut into the body of the motor or the pinion shaft. Once I cut deep enough, I used a flat head screwdriver to twist and break the pinion in two pieces. A little word of caution here... You should alway where eye protection when cutting and grinding. Please also where it when you go to pry this pinion apart. I read in another thread that this pinion will snap but I don't know if it's because of the hardened steel it's made of or that it is pressed onto the shaft. But when t popped, it really popped apart! One of the pieces hit my gut and left a small welt and went flying somewhere in the garage!!!
Then I put on my small grinding wheel and put a flat spot on the shaft. And if your wondering, from the recommendation of more experienced folks on this site I taped up the motor so no metal shavings would get into the guts.
Ready for paint! Maybe I over-thought this but I didn't want to get paint all down into the fan and wires I cut up some pieces of foam and paper towel and packed it into the holes and cuts in the body.
And the results!!!