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  1. #1
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    Summit 5607 Bearing Info

    I have been doing research for Bearings and bearing kits , for comparing .
    Here is what i have, maybe will help Others . should be good hopefully not typos

    if you have other brands please post . Thanks

    _________________________________________________
    Traxxas Summit (5607) bearings count is all front and back

    5116 clutch(1) and tranny(6)rocker arm(8)Steering arm inner(1) 5x11x4 16 $26.10
    5117 tranny(6), diffs(6) 6x12x4 12 $22.20
    5114 diff (2)diff bell crank (2)Steering arm outer (1) 5x8x2.5 5 $11.16 (1extra)
    5182 diff (2) 20x27x4 2 $9.39
    5118 dif (2) 8x16x5 2 $5.79
    5180 outer axle bearing 6x13x5 4 $7.78
    *5120 inner axle bearing 12x18x4 4 $15.38


    * wear is fast so far (backs ) 1 month

    total $97.80 all traxxas using qty discounts were can.

    Acer racing kits (ceramic)
    CTR18(erevo) 89.99
    Four 18x12x4mm Bearings x
    Four 13x6x5mm Bearings x
    Six 12x6x4mm Bearings x need 6 more
    One 8x5x2.5mm Bearing x need 4 more
    Two 16x8x5mm Bearings x
    Two 15x10x4mm Bearings ????????????????
    Fourteen 11x5x4mm Bearings x need 2 more

    CTR020 (summit) 109.99
    16 pieces of 5x11 mm good
    4 pieces 5x8 mm 1 short
    12 pieces 6x12 mm good
    4 pieces 6x13 mm good
    2 piece 8x16 mm good
    4 pieces 12x18 mm good

    no 20x27x4 can use boca SMR6704C-2YS NB2 41.95(1only) or traxxas 9.39 pair

    Boca summit kit s
    #58-220 econo kit (not best for offroad just cheap) steel shields steel bearing abec1 69.99

    below are for off road and excessively dirty driving
    58-220GS green seal ABEC1 steel 165.95

    58-220C-YS yellow seal ABEC1 Ceramic Hybirds 227.95

    58-220C-OS-NB2 Orange seal ABEC7 Grade 5 ceramic (free seal replacements) 523.95

    12mm x OD 18mm x Width 4mm 4 good
    20mm x OD 27mm x Width 4mm 2 good
    5mm x OD 11mm x Width 4mm 16 good
    5mm x OD 8mm x Width 2.5mm 4 1 short
    6mm x OD 12mm x Width 4mm 9 4 short
    6mm x OD 13mm x Width 5mm 4 good
    8mm x OD 16mm x Width 5mm 2 good
    Last edited by VonGearStripper; 01-16-2011 at 04:48 PM.

  2. #2
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    Von, I Have the complete set of TRAXXAS - SUMMIT 4WD MONSTER TRUCK, 1/10 ELECTRIC Ceramic Lightning Yellow Seal RC Car & Truck Bearings from Boca... the yellow now looks brown from all the dirt mud and water I run in but the seem to perform just as good as when new. I just got the kit and had no problems with placing them in...
    Just do it...they make replacement parts.VXL power

  3. #3
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    Thank you for posting that. I'm in the middle of a teardown, still a noob, and I've been replacing only a few with ceramic, some with Boca green seal, some with the Traxxas regular, and the four outside axles with metal shielded ones because it was all my LHS had, and it's not as critical as the inside. I've also been relubing some old rubber sealed bearings. This gives me a good idea of cost.

    I found this site which has every kind of bearing imaginable: http://www.vxb.com/

    I didn't buy anything from them, but I wanted to find out about the various types of seals, materials, etc. So I e-mailed them, and they replied:

    "Thank you for the email, we appreciate you visiting our site. The price is usually the same for the rubber sealed and metal shielded bearings. The advantages of the rubber seals is that the seals are removable for cleaning and lubricating. The metal shields are not removable. The metal shields generate less friction than the rubber seals. Teflon sealed bearings are lighter than rubber and the seals are also removable. Stainless steel bearings will last longer than chrome steel bearing if they are used in an wet environment. We also have ceramic bearings, full ceramic or hybrid ceramic bearings. The full ceramic bearings are extremely fragile and can break on hard impacts. They are mostly used for high temperatures or corrosion resistant applications. You may want to consider a hybrid ceramic bearing. The bearings have the benefits of the ceramic balls but with the security of the steel cage.

    The hybrid ceramic bearings are lighter and have lower friction than steel, which makes ceramic bearing go faster with lower heat generated."

    From the Acer site, the ceramic bearings they sell I would guess are hybrid. I hope the above quote can add to the clarification between the different types of bearings.

  4. #4
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    58-220C-OS-NB2 Orange seal ABEC7 Grade 5 ceramic (free seal replacements) 523.95
    Ouch those must be for the space shuttle
    Mountains cant stop me
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  5. #5
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    Great Info Guys keep it coming .
    H2oHaze Thanks for Sharing that Info you received. m
    mdLopez1 Thanks for the Report on Those Yellow Brown Boca's good to know the experience.

    58-220C-OS-NB2 Orange seal ABEC7 Grade 5 ceramic (free seal replacements) 523.95 LOL Yea must be for the Space shuttle . but must be the last word in bearings for the Summit.

    I think the DOD has a military summit in development. That one realy can fly

  6. #6
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    check these guys out I just started to order from them because they had a weird size that I could not find.Prices are low and the bearings look good but I do not have enough time on them to rate.Common size RC bearings are about $1 to $2.http://www.avidrc.com/

  7. #7
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    Why are you guys going through bearings that fast?? You have to maintainace your bearings about once a month....or if your driving in more snow/rain...even sooner. Don't throw the bearings away. Pop the seal open with a razor blade and shoot some motor cleaner in there. rotate the bearing with your finger holding the inside hold stationary and roll the bearing with your other fingers. once it breaks loose....shoot some PB Blaster inside and scuff with a steel brush about 3 or 4 times. rotate and do the same on the other side. then shoot some more motor cleaner to wash the rust out. once the bearings are back shiny oil with 3 in 1 machine oil and replace the seal. Will be back like brand new. I have revived bearings this way that were so rusted I had to use channel locks and needle nose pliers to break them loose. I have over 12 rc's that I race/bash and It takes me a while to break them all down and clean the bearings. but I gotta do it if i wanna play. Hope this helps. If you want I can make a vid showing how to revive them if you want.

    I guarantee if you do exactly what I stated above and get all that grease out of the bearings they will be smooth if not smoother than any other bearing you will find!! I've tested plenty of bearings.....trust me.
    Tommy
    Last edited by Tommyplumbr; 01-17-2011 at 07:37 PM.
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  8. #8
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    Tommy, I still have the originals in a container in great shape....I choose them (ceramics) because I run ceramics in my pede and was happy with the results (not because they went bad)... dont have "Data" proof but listening to the motors work, it sounds like they are running smoother and with less resistance than the stock BB. for those who know me I push my RC Hard and stupid... but all in all I just want a great "crashing" ( equal parts CRAwler and bASHING) machine and IMO since I have never had my ceramics fail in my pede, I'm hoping for the same with my summit.

    FYI
    In Summit - All ceramics (see above original posting)
    In Stampede - Running the Ceramic lightning ultra seal bearings inside my velineon motor and in the tranny... never finished buying them for the wheels, I am using the ones that come in the package for the alloy upgrade parts from traxxas. BB# SMR115C-Yuu NB2 from Boca all are same size 5x11x4mm (if I remember right)

    Again to date only issue I have had with my ceramics is the cost for a good hybrid set.
    Last edited by mdlopez1; 01-17-2011 at 10:52 PM.
    Just do it...they make replacement parts.VXL power

  9. #9
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    This is a good thread to post to SUMMIT FAQ... if you have the power to do so, please do it may help others thinking about new BBs...
    Just do it...they make replacement parts.VXL power

  10. #10
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    Tommy

    This thread started more for Bearing info when people do have to change. its not that we are going threw them. Mine are still in there from factory, and i have cleaned and oiled. But I do notice my inner axle ones are starting to go. because i drive in very coarse volcanic ash . which is not good for any bearing but admit i am looking to change those to a higher grade with better seal to see if that helps.

    But yes your info is great to add here for Bearing maintenance. Thanks and if you want to add more info that would be Great for everyone I think.

    so for that i ramble a little on that subject .
    two things i do slightly different I use the little ultrasonic cleaner with just wildcat soap , could use anything , then blast like you, then use Triflow oil. yes they spin much easier, but one has to maintain more regular when using oil once you remove grease. but oil will help self clean in certain situations were grease grabs and holds grit . another is just dry lubricant like graphite. which i might try next for less attraction.

    OH one important thing ,all should know NEVER EVER blow dry a steel bearing with compressed air and let it spin .
    Why you ask (its fun) NO dont do it, it will magnetize your bearing .

    Igore Great find there wow

    Thanks to all adding info and sources and experience.
    Last edited by VonGearStripper; 01-17-2011 at 11:05 PM.

  11. #11
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    I'd like to ask what people use when relubing. I've now tried both white Tamiya Boron Nitride light grease and auto parts store black lithium Moly disulfide bearing grease. The black Moly has a little more friction, but wouldn't it be better for water? I can see dirt being an issue...

    If I recall , 3-in 1 oil is vegetable based; most oil/grease is hydrocarbon. True?

    There's this stuff called Boeshield T-9 available in many bicycle stores. It is really the best for bike chains, it goes on wet and dries light waxy in a few minutes, doesn't pick up dirt. I've tried WD-40, Tri-Flow, etc. On bike chains, this stuff lasts 6 months or more with less grime pickup. It was invented by Boeing for airplanes I think.

    Disclaimer: I have not tried this on bearings, only bicycle chains, where it is outstanding. I am not necessarily recommending it for bearings: http://boeshield.com/

  12. #12
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    I got cha...my bad. I saw up top where it said "wear is fast so far" (backs) 1 month. Thought you meant that your stock bearings wore that fast in 1 month. Don't get me wrong.....acer bearings do make the difference compared to the traxxas stock to stock. I've experimented with a couple of oils that make them really smooth. Sorry about the confusion. Well....my input will help those out that have rusted bearings lying around and no $$$$ to buy new ones. I agree this needs to be stickied on the FAQ Wall.
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  13. #13
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    I got a complete bearing set off ebay for my E-Revo before I sold it, for only $30......I figured I would give them a try.

    I wish I had bought 10 sets!! these things were amazing...the quality was better than anything I have seen...I never had high end ceramics before but they were great.

    The had the steel seal on one side and the rubber on the other......they were advertized as ABEC-5....which I had a hard time believing that due to the price but they were top shelf stuff......I had wished I had bought more.....the seller now only offers a regular blue seal style for the same price. I got one of those blue sets for another truck but they were good but no where near the quality of first set I got.

  14. #14
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    Wheel bearings are my problem area. To much wet this time of year. At last cleaning I installed a Amsoil synthetic grease. Noticed a big difference. Have a small hill on paved road in front. Noticed the Summit did not want to slow down and stop like it did before. Going down the slight grade it just keeps on rolling. Had concerns about use grease but wanted something to fill the void and make it harder for water to enter. Mighty pleased with the result I got. Think one has to pick the grease careful, do not want one that is too thick or stiff.

  15. #15
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    I'm using high temp brake grease for 1:1 so far it's working good no issues.I run in the wet alot so rust is a issue
    Mountains cant stop me
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  16. #16
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    Sandblaster, I Run in Mud Swamps and Water ALOT and have not had issues with the Boca Yellows... The only maintence I have done to the BB (if you want to call it that) is after every water run I clean everything and Spray the car down with WD-40 until it drips off (whatever oil gets on them gets on them)... Once dry, I place it back on my shelf till the next day.

    Thats one reason I like them- I have not seen any rust on my ceramics yet.... Pulled from Boca Website: - RC Car & Truck Ceramic Lightning Yellow Seal Bearing kits are specially designed for off-road or excessively dirty driving environments. These ABEC #1 bearings are maintenance free and lubed for life. The heavy duty rubber seal provides extra protection against the harshest elements; the ceramic ball provides lower friction and increased durability. Ceramic hybrids are lighter, have less rolling resistance and can sustain higher operating temperatures than traditional bearings. All Ceramic Lightning Yellow sealed bearings are packed in grease and will require a short break in period to loosen up.

    Some vid of the nasty and pretty water I run in...

    Pretty: http://www.youtube.com/user/zepolfun.../7/P-ZQtmXV3H8

    NASTY!! http://www.youtube.com/user/zepolfun...28/rSnOCE6U-cA

    hope this helps...
    Just do it...they make replacement parts.VXL power

  17. #17
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    You know....like someone stated above. The summit will be in water a lot and packing the bearings full of grease might not be a bad idea. that will help to keep water/rust out of them. I usually race my rc's and want the bearing to have no friction/resistance against the car itself. but the summit really doesn't matter since it is just a basher for me anyways. hmmmm.....guess i get to break my truck down tonight and have some fun!!
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  18. #18
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    more like a little Tank , Most tanks don' t need speed just Muscle . LOL
    speaking of Grease I guess Marine grease might be a thing to look into since we are talking about water . It does Help full size stuff around water .

  19. #19
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    Amsoil apparently makes a grease for Marine applications, resists water: http://www.bestsynthetic.com/gwr.shtml

    Amsoil FAQ about grease: http://www.bestsynthetic.com/edu-grease.shtml

    Link to Amsoil online store, but more importantly, lists all their grease products, check out the bottom of page, the two "Off-Road" greases... https://www.amsoil.com/a/Synthetic-Grease


    On another note: the Boeshield T-9 guy got back to me and said that it would work and be a good application...in RC truck bearings in mud, snow, ice, moderate water, etc. FWIW.
    Last edited by H2Ohaze; 01-19-2011 at 09:22 AM.

  20. #20
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    Thanks for the info!!
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  21. #21
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    I've been thinking more about this. I looked at my tranny bearings and the eight rocker arm bearings. They are trashed with rust.

    Would it be a good idea for just the Summit, to get stainless steel bearings, and in the differential pinion and idler gear in tranny get stainless ceramic?

    Here are some. These all have metal shields, only way they are available on this site:

    http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/6mm/kit783

    http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/6mm/Kit1055

    http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/5mm/Kit7597

    http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/5mm/kit764

    http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/5mm/kit952

    http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/5mm/Kit9042

    Well, you get the idea...

  22. #22
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    How about using the stock, removing the shield and packing with a synthetic grease to fill the void so other stuff can't? Trying this on the wheel bearings and liking what I see a lot. Rolls much easier. Easy to do.

  23. #23
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    Yes it seems the best to protect bearings , the ones that are exposed the most. like the ones on the stub axials (by the wheels) . and the external diff bearing were the axle meets . I would pack those with a water proof anti corrosion grease . but would put the factory blue seals back on, since they are so simple to do. Now i have been using Corrosion block Grease. which for me is excellent stuff.

    But if your into speed running, and not into diving deep into water or nasty mud. then simply use a good bearing oil , Like my helis i have used triflow. using oil you'll have to clean more regularly. but you get a speed edge , if into that.

    Using grease yea it will protect more more and will reduce the maintenance schedule. still have to clean and reapply, but not as often. will restrict on speed slightly as well. so its application of what you do with the truck or what you expose it too.

    I would put seals back on, unless you are running for speed record or something like that. and on a clean surface .

    anyway thats my bid on it now.

    two ways to clean i use now. if in a rush and don't care about cost , i use motor cleaner and rpm bearing blaster .
    if i have time , i go the cheap way , and put a cheaper cleaner like wild cat or simple green in the Integy INDI Sparkle Parts Cleaner. reason motor cleaner were i am is like 8 bucks a can. and is hard to get . so when in, stock it goes fast.

  24. #24
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    Yes that may be best way to go. Problem with mine is, I can only salvage the inner axle bearings. All the rocker, most of rear differential, all of tranny, had some rust or other problem. I let it go too long. I will be putting some Amsoil "water resistant" grease in the four inner axle bearings. Amazing that they lasted.

    I've also been investigating the green and yellow seal Bocas some. Apparently the seal is permanent, so can't redo. OTOH, supposed to very tough for dirty applications. I'm thinking just replace some tranny and diff bearings with green and yellow seal, 5x11 and 6x12, leave the smaller and larger, and more accessible bearings as is with repacks.

    I also e-mailed Acer, and came up with another possibility. They don't currently, have a "Summit kit" for the Polamide bearing line, below their top ceramic, but they told me they would be glad to make up one. Not much over $1 a bearing if all included(?). Here is quote from e-mail:

    "We can make you a Polyamide kit for the Summit if you are interested. It will be $49.99. You can Paypal us at info@acerracing.com that amount if interested."

  25. #25
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    Here is the ceramic kit of acer-racing for $100 today.
    http://www.acerracing.com/ball_beari...t-1144-11.html

    Anybody got these? Or is it really worth forking out another $150 for the Boca Yellow Seal?
    http://www.bocabearings.com/bearing-...-1/10-electric

  26. #26
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    These options all seem way too expensive all I want is a few bearings.

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by fourtwentyeight View Post
    These options all seem way too expensive all I want is a few bearings.
    Boca bearings sells individual bearings as well as sets


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  28. #28
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    i have been using acer racing bearings for about a year now. they have held up great. i punish them with water, snow and mud.
    Revenge 1/8 buggy

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by VonGearStripper View Post
    5114 diff (2)diff bell crank (2)Steering arm outer (1) 5x8x2.5 5 $11.16 (1extra)
    am i the only one who don't understood this?

    why 5 5x8x2.5 bearings?
    there's one in steering arm and one per diff lock fork - 3 total
    what does this means "diff (2)"? where are they?

    ....

    ups
    got it. it's not in the diff, but in diff lock linkage
    http://traxxas.com/explodedviews/560...Qi-24GHz-radio
    Last edited by Evgen; 09-25-2012 at 01:55 PM.
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  30. #30
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    Here is a good deal!!!

    I just bought this and I'm waiting to arrive!

    Do you know if there's map with all these bearings in the car ?
    It would be a paint to replace them all if you don't know where they are.

    Thanks!

  31. #31
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    I use Avid RC bearings, stainless steel so it won't seize up under water, and at only $1 per bearing, you can replace them if they get dirty or stuck. Whats better, summit set (Boca) for $500 or like $35 haha you can get many replacements. Boca is mostly for hardcore bashers, money blowers, or racers. I like taking my bearings apart sometimes though because it's part of the hobby.
    Brushless Rips, Nitro Drips!!! BL Power FTW!

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    I use APS, basic rubber seal bearings. They are CHEAP, less than $1 each. They seem to feel a little stronger than stock Traxxas bearings. They both have the exact same rubber shields though, same MFG. I open/clean and grease them regularly. Easy to maintain. The set comes with all you need MINUS the 2 massive diff bearings (TRA5182 20x27x4mm).

    Canadian made less than 4 hours from me.

    http://www.aps-racing.net/tryy/catal...oducts_id=4842

    To SUMMIT up, its my coolest RC.

  33. #33
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    Acer Ceramic Bearings are here .. 43 pieces !!

    I was wandering if should I replace them all .. or only the ones that are in a bad working condition?


  34. #34
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    I would do the damaged ones and wheel bearings if they are not the damaged ones.Might as well do them all and then they are all the same age as it were


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